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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 01:41 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by StevieB
1. Cant_Get_Ryte (I know he's in)
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)

is the price confirmed at 110 + shipping? Thanks
yes it is confirmed
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #202  
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1. Cant_Get_Ryte (I know he's in)
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)

Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #203  
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Depends on the other guys, but if not we can meet halfway.
You coming to the meet tonight?
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #204  
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Just went on Tmec and noticed it, I am in. What time will you guys be there? I might be a bit late since I am helping a friend pick up a set of used winter tires.

Considering it is -4 in the evening we would prob be spending most of the time indoors though
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:53 PM
  #205  
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6-9 or so, its a long drive back for me and I wake up at 430am
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #206  
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correction on my order

I wanted inserts for both sides. See corrected list below.

Originally Posted by oms
1. Cant_Get_Ryte (I know he's in)
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz (pair of inserts)
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)

Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
I wanted inserts for both sides. See corrected list below.
Everyone on the list is in for a pair.
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Everyone on the list is in for a pair.
Ok, I just got confused when I saw others listed for a pair!
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #209  
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Okay, I'm confused as well. I want in for a pair too. I didn't know that was an option. Just to confirm, this would be a passenger side mount + transmission/drivers side mount? When can we expect to roll these out and/or need to provide payment?
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 08:40 AM
  #210  
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The answers to your questions are in page 5. Both sides for 130-135 shipped, need money by November 25.
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #211  
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Here is the latest and greatest cleaned up list.

1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)

To avoid any confusion this is all for PAIRS meaning both passenger and transmission inserts. They are a 2 piece design that allows installation without a press. Price is going to be around 130-135 shipped, and money is needed by November 25th. TMEC are Canada guys who don't need shipping since knight_yyz is in Canada.

If you are interested just add YOUR NAME to the list only to avoid any confusion. Thanks!
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #212  
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1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
Old Oct 29, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #213  
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Looks like we got the 10 we needed but of course the more the merrier . Good to see other members interested in this as well, I'm sure we'll all be satisfied in the end.
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 05:40 AM
  #214  
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1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #215  
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Quick Update. I'm waiting for an email from tech support. I need to know specs on the urethane and model, ie shrinkage etc... And I wanted to know if they just want one model or two for the mold. I have to call Monday to confirm these details.
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 02:25 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
Quick Update. I'm waiting for an email from tech support. I need to know specs on the urethane and model, ie shrinkage etc... And I wanted to know if they just want one model or two for the mold. I have to call Monday to confirm these details.
Just curious, are you planning on making a prototype one for the trans mount and checking it out to see it if it improves the drivetrain firmness?
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #217  
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No, I figure that 1 made a big difference so 2 should be better. And a few people have filled in their mounts with liquid urethane with great results. This solid design should work fine.
Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:35 PM
  #218  
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Dam the price is right too very nice work
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
No, I figure that 1 made a big difference so 2 should be better. And a few people have filled in their mounts with liquid urethane with great results. This solid design should work fine.
Absolutely! BTW; Knight, I have an idea for another prototype bushing set you might be able to sell. How does the idea of urethane transverse axle link bushings sound? Much needed replacement parts to bring the axle back into line that ES has overlooked. The Nissan bushings are not solid which probably causes the problem of the axle moving over as they fatigue. Just like fatigued Nissan engine mounts allow it to drop.
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #220  
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1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
12. 02whitemaximase

Knight, thanks again for the coils and very quick shipping. It was nice to do business with you and look forward to having another perfect transaction.
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 06:28 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by BobPezz
Absolutely! BTW; Knight, I have an idea for another prototype bushing set you might be able to sell. How does the idea of urethane transverse axle link bushings sound? Much needed replacement parts to bring the axle back into line that ES has overlooked. The Nissan bushings are not solid which probably causes the problem of the axle moving over as they fatigue. Just like fatigued Nissan engine mounts allow it to drop.
I'm not sure which bushings you are talking about
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:18 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
I'm not sure which bushings you are talking about
The bushings (4 I think 2 small 2 large) on the Panhard/Watts Link that laterally locates the rear beam axle. It's a big ugly stamped steel assy. you can't miss it. (the rusty bar ahead of the muffler, just above the axle in this picture)

Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #223  
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Ya, I was looking at that when I jacked up my car to put my snows on. Maybe in the spring when I take the.rear axle off to do the rear trailing arm bushings and my qt link
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
Ya, I was looking at that when I jacked up my car to put my snows on. Maybe in the spring when I take the.rear axle off to do the rear trailing arm bushings and my qt link
The bushings I'm talking about would be a perfect compliment to the QT Link. Are you thinking of doing ES rear control arm bushings? I read this (below) which has me wondering about how beneficial they'd be. IF the same problem applies to the Maxima rear suspension. The twisting loads the beam axle puts on the rear arms could be enough to cause a similar suspension bind/snap over condition.

Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I've seen ES bushings do various things on cars. on your car I don't think it would be a big deal. on my 240 that has a 109875-link rear, the ES bushings caused so much suspension bind that it was causing the car to snap around in corners too. you'd be in the middle of the turn and hit a tiny bump (like the curbing at the apex) with the inside wheels, and it would cause the bushings just enough shock, they'd pop loose and the inside suspension would suddenly move an inch, causing the weight to shift around in the car and you'd snap over. happened to me about half a dozen times at TWS through through turn 9, and you wind up going sideways/backwards over rough ground at 80mph. eek!
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #225  
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If the the transverse link was done in urethane it would have to be very soft.

I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #226  
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Does the completely different suspension set up have any significance?

Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:36 AM
  #227  
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probably. I wouldn't think a RWD car had the rear link like we do
Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
If the the transverse link was done in urethane it would have to be very soft.

I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
Just food for thought. There's so many other factors effecting suspension dynamics. If ES bushings do have the tendency to bind/release when loaded/unloaded suddenly. I wonder if that could make the rear of the car more twitchy than it is already. Which to get back on the topic of the transverse link bushings. Is the reason I mentioned urethane replacements for the soft rubber Nissan bushings. To minimize the lateral movement of the rear axle. Wouldn't soft bushings defeat that purpose, or am I missing something in the transverse link design that necessitates soft bushings?
Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by McSteve
Does the completely different suspension set up have any significance?

Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
I know that on my 1981 Maxima the RWD/IRS uses a semi trailing arm setup almost identical to the 240Z. It had a tendency to squat under power and weight jack the outside wheel in corners, to minimize body roll. So from what you're saying about a LOT of power, it could've been a combination of the squatting/jacking forces causing the suspension bind/weight shifting and rear snapping around when hitting a bump.

Last edited by BobPezz; Nov 2, 2011 at 03:43 PM.
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #230  
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I need 2 mounts left transmission and right motor let me know. 5 speed manual transmission... does it come with urethane in them or i will have to make them ??

Last edited by TopSpeedNY; Nov 3, 2011 at 04:09 PM.
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #231  
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add your name to the list. I have not placed the order yet. I have to redo the model, as I did not account for enough shrinkage
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #232  
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Would this work on a 4th gen?
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #233  
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One side yes, the other I am not sure. Nissan has used the same engine mount on one side since 95, the other i would have to measure. I don't have access to a 4th gen. Someone would have to measure the bushing diameter
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 07:06 PM
  #234  
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Is there a way to remove the oem bushings without a press since these inserts don't require a press to install I'm trying to do all this at home?
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Is there a way to remove the oem bushings without a press since these inserts don't require a press to install I'm trying to do all this at home?
You could try cutting out the inside rubber of the bushing and CAREFULLY using a hack saw, cut a slot through the remaining outside metal shell. It should just push out easily since you've released the press fit pressure. At least, that's my plan for a home based solution.

Last edited by BobPezz; Nov 3, 2011 at 08:08 PM.
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #236  
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Hmmm Bob I think I'm picturing right in my head. What would release the press pressure, the cutting of the metal shell?
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 01:41 AM
  #237  
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you could hack out the OEM ones, a lot of people do that with the torque mount positions. Just make sure you cut the metal ring that is left over. I have a feeling the auto mounts are liquid filled, the MT ones are not liquid filled.
Once the rubber is out you could carefully chisel out the metal ring, or use a small die grinder
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 04:06 AM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Hmmm Bob I think I'm picturing right in my head. What would release the press pressure, the cutting of the metal shell?
Exactly.
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 05:43 AM
  #239  
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Or you can torch the rubber, just be careful of boiling the fluid and splashing on you. I'd drill a hole and drain them first
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 08:14 AM
  #240  
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That looks like a good idea. I need to replace mine soon but Ill give this a try.



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