My newest protoype
1. Cant_Get_Ryte (I know he's in)
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)
Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)
Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
Just went on Tmec and noticed it, I am in. What time will you guys be there? I might be a bit late since I am helping a friend pick up a set of used winter tires.
Considering it is -4 in the evening we would prob be spending most of the time indoors though
Considering it is -4 in the evening we would prob be spending most of the time indoors though
correction on my order
I wanted inserts for both sides. See corrected list below.
1. Cant_Get_Ryte (I know he's in)
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz (pair of inserts)
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)
Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz (pair of inserts)
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB (pair of inserts)
9. Oms (TMEC, pair of inserts)
Ray since there are 4 TMEC members, we could do a mini meet for pickup?
Okay, I'm confused as well. I want in for a pair too. I didn't know that was an option. Just to confirm, this would be a passenger side mount + transmission/drivers side mount? When can we expect to roll these out and/or need to provide payment?
Here is the latest and greatest cleaned up list.
1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
To avoid any confusion this is all for PAIRS meaning both passenger and transmission inserts. They are a 2 piece design that allows installation without a press. Price is going to be around 130-135 shipped, and money is needed by November 25th. TMEC are Canada guys who don't need shipping since knight_yyz is in Canada.
If you are interested just add YOUR NAME to the list only to avoid any confusion. Thanks!
1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
To avoid any confusion this is all for PAIRS meaning both passenger and transmission inserts. They are a 2 piece design that allows installation without a press. Price is going to be around 130-135 shipped, and money is needed by November 25th. TMEC are Canada guys who don't need shipping since knight_yyz is in Canada.
If you are interested just add YOUR NAME to the list only to avoid any confusion. Thanks!
1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
Quick Update. I'm waiting for an email from tech support. I need to know specs on the urethane and model, ie shrinkage etc... And I wanted to know if they just want one model or two for the mold. I have to call Monday to confirm these details.
Just curious, are you planning on making a prototype one for the trans mount and checking it out to see it if it improves the drivetrain firmness?
No, I figure that 1 made a big difference so 2 should be better. And a few people have filled in their mounts with liquid urethane with great results. This solid design should work fine.
Absolutely! BTW; Knight, I have an idea for another prototype bushing set you might be able to sell. How does the idea of urethane transverse axle link bushings sound? Much needed replacement parts to bring the axle back into line that ES has overlooked. The Nissan bushings are not solid which probably causes the problem of the axle moving over as they fatigue. Just like fatigued Nissan engine mounts allow it to drop.
1. Cant_Get_Ryte
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
12. 02whitemaximase
Knight, thanks again for the coils and very quick shipping. It was nice to do business with you and look forward to having another perfect transaction.
2. Chris Gregg
3. BobPezz
4. nigel (TMEC)
5. mrshakdaddy (TMEC)
6. 2000_MAXIMA_KING
7. McSteve
8. StevieB
9. Oms (TMEC)
10. zero2sixtyZ
11. mbdemonte
12. 02whitemaximase
Knight, thanks again for the coils and very quick shipping. It was nice to do business with you and look forward to having another perfect transaction.
Absolutely! BTW; Knight, I have an idea for another prototype bushing set you might be able to sell. How does the idea of urethane transverse axle link bushings sound? Much needed replacement parts to bring the axle back into line that ES has overlooked. The Nissan bushings are not solid which probably causes the problem of the axle moving over as they fatigue. Just like fatigued Nissan engine mounts allow it to drop.
The bushings (4 I think 2 small 2 large) on the Panhard/Watts Link that laterally locates the rear beam axle. It's a big ugly stamped steel assy. you can't miss it. (the rusty bar ahead of the muffler, just above the axle in this picture)
Ya, I was looking at that when I jacked up my car to put my snows on. Maybe in the spring when I take the.rear axle off to do the rear trailing arm bushings and my qt link
I've seen ES bushings do various things on cars. on your car I don't think it would be a big deal. on my 240 that has a 109875-link rear, the ES bushings caused so much suspension bind that it was causing the car to snap around in corners too. you'd be in the middle of the turn and hit a tiny bump (like the curbing at the apex) with the inside wheels, and it would cause the bushings just enough shock, they'd pop loose and the inside suspension would suddenly move an inch, causing the weight to shift around in the car and you'd snap over. happened to me about half a dozen times at TWS through through turn 9, and you wind up going sideways/backwards over rough ground at 80mph. eek!
If the the transverse link was done in urethane it would have to be very soft.
I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
Does the completely different suspension set up have any significance?
Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
If the the transverse link was done in urethane it would have to be very soft.
I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
I haven't heard anything bad about the rear trailing arm bushings. I'll take that comment with a grain of salt. I have read countless threads that say the RSB is a bad thing to have in the winter because it causes the back end to swing out. Well, I don't know how fast they were going because it has never happened to me, even when I tried.
perhaps there were other factors contributing to this guy losing control on turn 9
Does the completely different suspension set up have any significance?
Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
Like independent rear suspension in a RWD car, where the wheel loosing traction is the one delivering all the power (since he was tracking the 240 and from his reputation it was probably A LOT of power) vs a solid rear beam on a FWD car?
Last edited by BobPezz; Nov 2, 2011 at 03:43 PM.
I need 2 mounts left transmission and right motor let me know. 5 speed manual transmission... does it come with urethane in them or i will have to make them ??
Last edited by TopSpeedNY; Nov 3, 2011 at 04:09 PM.
One side yes, the other I am not sure. Nissan has used the same engine mount on one side since 95, the other i would have to measure. I don't have access to a 4th gen. Someone would have to measure the bushing diameter
You could try cutting out the inside rubber of the bushing and CAREFULLY using a hack saw, cut a slot through the remaining outside metal shell. It should just push out easily since you've released the press fit pressure. At least, that's my plan for a home based solution.
Last edited by BobPezz; Nov 3, 2011 at 08:08 PM.
you could hack out the OEM ones, a lot of people do that with the torque mount positions. Just make sure you cut the metal ring that is left over. I have a feeling the auto mounts are liquid filled, the MT ones are not liquid filled.
Once the rubber is out you could carefully chisel out the metal ring, or use a small die grinder
Once the rubber is out you could carefully chisel out the metal ring, or use a small die grinder





. Good to see other members interested in this as well, I'm sure we'll all be satisfied in the end.