Sell or fix
Sell or fix
So my 03 has 130k on it and I am at the point where I need to make a decision. I need to totally replace alot of stuff or sell it as is. I have really only replaced the breaks, starter, alternator and tires on it.
I have clunks up front and a grinding/binding noise when on center or turning left although it tracks fine. I now have an intermittent miss like a coil going bad but it is going away if I turn it off and on either once or twice. I also have an ABS light and air bag is flashing(front sensor by the hood latch).
My question for opinions, do I spend the dollars to replace springs, struts, shocks, LCA, tie rods, axles, coils, plugs, valve covers(to fix the leaks) and the abs sensors and air bag sensors or do I just trade this puppy in?
I really love this car but the thought of doing all of this is daunting and I dont have the time to do it myself either since I work full time and own my own business that I run on weekends and evenings.
From my calculations its some serious dollars to get all of this up to snuff...what do you guys think.
I have clunks up front and a grinding/binding noise when on center or turning left although it tracks fine. I now have an intermittent miss like a coil going bad but it is going away if I turn it off and on either once or twice. I also have an ABS light and air bag is flashing(front sensor by the hood latch).
My question for opinions, do I spend the dollars to replace springs, struts, shocks, LCA, tie rods, axles, coils, plugs, valve covers(to fix the leaks) and the abs sensors and air bag sensors or do I just trade this puppy in?
I really love this car but the thought of doing all of this is daunting and I dont have the time to do it myself either since I work full time and own my own business that I run on weekends and evenings.
From my calculations its some serious dollars to get all of this up to snuff...what do you guys think.
do you have the money for a new car? resale sucks on our cars, so i would sit down and figure out how much its gonna cost (define serious dollars, 3k?), vs a 300-500 a month carpayment for 3-5 years. i plan on selling my 02 next year, but i just did new f&r pads and rotors, battery, and now i need 2 new front tires...ugh
do you have the money for a new car? resale sucks on our cars, so i would sit down and figure out how much its gonna cost (define serious dollars, 3k?), vs a 300-500 a month carpayment for 3-5 years. i plan on selling my 02 next year, but i just did new f&r pads and rotors, battery, and now i need 2 new front tires...ugh

It's a cost vs. benefit analysis. It's probably going to cost you about $1.5 - $3K to get everything fixed, and some down time. If the rest of the car (paint, interior, etc) is in good shape, you would probably not get much more for it after you repair it than if you trade it in as-is.
Considering the trade-in value is between $4-$5.5K and a private sale would yield $6-7K, repairing (and we all know we're not going to get top dollar - especially in this economy) it would not make a whole lot of sense if you are going to sell it in the near future.
On the other hand, if you plan on keeping it for a few more years, a $3K investment now will pay off in the long run by saving you the monthly payments and accrued interest for the next 4-5 years, which can add up to thousands and thousands of dollars. However, you will be sacrificing reduced maintenance intervals and the bling of a newer vehicle, since you will likely need to anticipate more repairs down the road.
With that in mind, you need to look at the overall condition of you Maxima and prioritize your money versus your willingness to continue nursing an aging vehicle.
My problem with selling is that I have never owned a non stick vehicle. I am 44 and have owned a Maxima since 1999. I dont have any idea what vehicle to get but I am leaning towards an SUV or something like an Avalanche to have a dual purpose vehicle for my business.
I will probably just run it til it breaks and fix it piece meal and wait for the business to get to the point where I can lease a vehicle....driving a Van or SUV is not like thrashing a Max though
I will probably just run it til it breaks and fix it piece meal and wait for the business to get to the point where I can lease a vehicle....driving a Van or SUV is not like thrashing a Max though
I think it's basically been said, but just take it o e thing at a time, otherwise it will be overwhelming. Prioritize first. I would suggest addressing the abs light (more critical to be able to stop than go). Then address the miss. If the suspension noise is really bad, just take it in to be inspected....hopefully you know a trustworthy mechanic! I hardly doubt you need all the work you mentioned. Just as an example, why replace the springs?
At that point, you've addressed what I think are the primary issues. You can decide from there whether you're done or want to keep. If you decide to trade in or sell, it will be a good idea to get all the lights off, but at that point it would just be replacing the airbag sensor you said.
Sounds like a plan to me!
At that point, you've addressed what I think are the primary issues. You can decide from there whether you're done or want to keep. If you decide to trade in or sell, it will be a good idea to get all the lights off, but at that point it would just be replacing the airbag sensor you said.
Sounds like a plan to me!
My problem with selling is that I have never owned a non stick vehicle. I am 44 and have owned a Maxima since 1999. I dont have any idea what vehicle to get but I am leaning towards an SUV or something like an Avalanche to have a dual purpose vehicle for my business.
I will probably just run it til it breaks and fix it piece meal and wait for the business to get to the point where I can lease a vehicle....driving a Van or SUV is not like thrashing a Max though
I will probably just run it til it breaks and fix it piece meal and wait for the business to get to the point where I can lease a vehicle....driving a Van or SUV is not like thrashing a Max though
A little off topic, but a perfect example of doing pm instead of letting things accumulate. Everything doesn't break @ once. If you take care of issues along the way, it's less painfull on the wallet. You need to know the overall condition of your beloved 10 yr. old vehichle rather than just drive it.
I wanted to do PM but I was unemployed for almost 2 years so I am still getting flush. I would like to fix the miss first. Dream world, get phonelic spacers, valve covers, BOP and plugs. Then address the axle which is what is making that noise I think. Then address the suspension. Its getting inspected tomorrow or Friday and I trust my mechanic so I will ask him what he thinks on the suspension.
I cant leave the family but I cant get a Max I like with a stick so its Infiniti or ??? or just fix her up.
As to my avatar, she is so sexy I wish I knew her name cause I would be stalking her instead of on this board.
I cant leave the family but I cant get a Max I like with a stick so its Infiniti or ??? or just fix her up.
As to my avatar, she is so sexy I wish I knew her name cause I would be stalking her instead of on this board.
whats you're personal business if I may ask, you can pm if you want.
You should keep it, however u fix it weither piece mail or all together you should really save when compared with the new car route.
It sounds like it still drives ok at the moment and you could just fix it up piece mail. Especially since it seems like u might have just procrastinated some of the things into the list u made.
On the other hand you can do it all at once and pay someone to do it. All that together in one shop visit would probably be quite a bill but on the same note would be practical in a sense because a lot of that work can be done at the same time when working in the engine, or have the suspension ripped apart etc and you would only miss the car for a few days. If you can handle it all at once u should consider just getting it done all now.
If not then do it piece by piece, but make sure you remember everything u have listed not to forget to do something you can do while u are working in that area.
You should keep it, however u fix it weither piece mail or all together you should really save when compared with the new car route.
It sounds like it still drives ok at the moment and you could just fix it up piece mail. Especially since it seems like u might have just procrastinated some of the things into the list u made.
On the other hand you can do it all at once and pay someone to do it. All that together in one shop visit would probably be quite a bill but on the same note would be practical in a sense because a lot of that work can be done at the same time when working in the engine, or have the suspension ripped apart etc and you would only miss the car for a few days. If you can handle it all at once u should consider just getting it done all now.
If not then do it piece by piece, but make sure you remember everything u have listed not to forget to do something you can do while u are working in that area.
Three years ago I was in the same situation: repairs and mods, or new car? I chose repairs and mods, with no regrets. Love my modded Max. But understand, that only works if you look at mods as a hobby, instead of an expense. Honestly, reading your posts in this thread, I'm thinking you really want a new car. Just a guess.
I'm 47 and have also owned a Maxima since 1999.
My next car will be a G37S Sedan 6MT.
Last edited by Rochester; Nov 3, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
same here lol it just started happening once I installed a new lower control arm... i havnt had time to get the alignment redone but would that fix the problem? its only if i turn the wheel more than like 85% of the way to the left or right?! any suggestions?!
here
personally I kinda have just learned not to go past the maximum % to avoid the horrible grinding.
1. Make a list of your priorities.
2. List your desires in a car.
3. Figure out how much to fix all issues.
4. Determine what new car you would get.
If the payment, insurance, and registration from the new car is acceptable for what you feel you are getting then go for a new car. A nice benefit of the new car is less maintenance and headache, especially with a lot of dealers incorporating the first few years of maintenance into the price of the car.
If you like not having a payment and can get over the fact you'll probably spend about $500 to $1,000 a year after all the repairs to keep the car going then stick with the Maxima.
Personally...I like not having a car payment. My 2k has over 220,000 miles on it and still going strong.
2. List your desires in a car.
3. Figure out how much to fix all issues.
4. Determine what new car you would get.
If the payment, insurance, and registration from the new car is acceptable for what you feel you are getting then go for a new car. A nice benefit of the new car is less maintenance and headache, especially with a lot of dealers incorporating the first few years of maintenance into the price of the car.
If you like not having a payment and can get over the fact you'll probably spend about $500 to $1,000 a year after all the repairs to keep the car going then stick with the Maxima.
Personally...I like not having a car payment. My 2k has over 220,000 miles on it and still going strong.
I'm 47 and have also owned a Maxima since 1999.
My next car will be a G37S Sedan 6MT.
My next car will be a G37S Sedan 6MT.
The rust factor was a big one for me, on whether to fix my wrecked '02 or get a new one, and I was just too afraid of the undercarriage and wheel-wells to justify hanging on to a car that would have no value whatsoever when it came time to move on. If your car isn't rusty, the engine isn't burning much oil, the paint is in good shape, the seats are in good shape, and you like the way it drives, then it's worth repairing. But if you don't see yourself keeping it another three years, my vote is to find another car.
Like Rochester, I'll either "upgrade" to an '07 G35S 6MT or a G37S 6MT, depending on which one I can find in five years or so. I've only been driving for 8 years, but I'm ready to experience oversteer and be forced to use tactics and planning to drive in the snow. I think FWD platforms are advancing in suspension technologies enough that they'll eventually find a way to combine more power with driveability, but the easy route out, for now, is just to hop into a heavier, more powerful, RWD sedan. That's why so many Orgers move from a Maxima to a BMW. *shrug*
OP,
Just my 2 cents: as others have said:
-- list your priorities in terms of what needs to be fixed: here is what I would do - take the car to a Nissan dealership that does oil change with multi-point inspection. Or spend about $70 to get a full inspection. You will get a nice report detailing what needs to be fixed.
-- Bring the list back here, and ask members for help in prioritizing what needs fixing immediately, and later.
-- Slowly start; get help from here - since you are in Buffalo-NY, go to the Regional area here and seek out other Org members who can help with mechanical repairs in your area. Order parts online, would be much cheaper.
-- It sure will be cheaper in the long-run, particularly given the low mileage, than sticking to a $300-$500 monthly payment for a new/used car.
It might seem easier to think of the monthly payment, but it hurts over time. I was in exactly the same situation about 6 years ago. My 1991 had about 400K miles at that time, and with a lot of repairs, I opted for a fairly new car and got my 2002 Max. I recently finished paying for it. Now, my Max has about 130K miles with similar "symptoms" you listed. I would not sell or trade. Will keep fixing until the age or other serious engine / transmission issues warrant replacement.
Best of luck in your decision.
-- Noela
Just my 2 cents: as others have said:
-- list your priorities in terms of what needs to be fixed: here is what I would do - take the car to a Nissan dealership that does oil change with multi-point inspection. Or spend about $70 to get a full inspection. You will get a nice report detailing what needs to be fixed.
-- Bring the list back here, and ask members for help in prioritizing what needs fixing immediately, and later.
-- Slowly start; get help from here - since you are in Buffalo-NY, go to the Regional area here and seek out other Org members who can help with mechanical repairs in your area. Order parts online, would be much cheaper.
-- It sure will be cheaper in the long-run, particularly given the low mileage, than sticking to a $300-$500 monthly payment for a new/used car.
It might seem easier to think of the monthly payment, but it hurts over time. I was in exactly the same situation about 6 years ago. My 1991 had about 400K miles at that time, and with a lot of repairs, I opted for a fairly new car and got my 2002 Max. I recently finished paying for it. Now, my Max has about 130K miles with similar "symptoms" you listed. I would not sell or trade. Will keep fixing until the age or other serious engine / transmission issues warrant replacement.
Best of luck in your decision.
-- Noela
Buyers beware, local pick up recommended. Slow to ship out items already paid for.
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 823
From: Cranston, RI
I say keep it. Mine has 150,000 miles on it and shows no signs of life loss...i get a little hesitation but just a 02 sensor code? I can't see starting a car payment when the max still has lots of life left.
Thanks everyone. I think I will try and nurse her along. My business is all natural carpet cleaning, duct cleaning and mold remediation. The mold has really taken off and the carpet is going well too. www.greengeniewny.com still needs work but that is the website. I have been looking at Pathys and I really miss my 72 Volvo Wagon 4 speed so I was looking at 850R wagons too....
Right now the carpet and duct cleaning stuff fits in the Max but it isnt that easy and compromises the utility of the car.
So I may just keep it and look for a purpose built vehicle for the business...still trying to work it all out
Right now the carpet and duct cleaning stuff fits in the Max but it isnt that easy and compromises the utility of the car.
So I may just keep it and look for a purpose built vehicle for the business...still trying to work it all out
^^ yeah, if you're visiting customers directly, having a business only vehicle will present it self more professionally than a personal vehicle
(trust me I didn't forget you said it was side business)
Sounds good, good luck with it, and the max.
(trust me I didn't forget you said it was side business)Sounds good, good luck with it, and the max.
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But I say keep it and fix one thing at a time vs the 300 to 500 a month, you should put that to the car ever month...till everything is fixed....