Two threads in a week ... that's a first for me i think.

here goes.

was at a traffic light and took off with some umph ... hit first gear red line faster than expected before shifting. Car hit a wall (metaphorically) and didnt recover.

I was able to limp it back to work by keeping it below ~3000 RPM ... more like 2500 if i remember correctly.

got it to work ... turned it off. checked for leaking fluids etc nothing ...

it starts up immediately every time, but then dies pretty quick .. doesnt really hold an IDLE ... giving it gas causes it to bog if anything at all.... dont think i can keep it going with gas pedal play ...

i'm thinking vacuum leak or MAF ... (I hope anyway). I know i can get some starter fluid and spray around the lines hoping to find a leak .. it would obviously be between the TB and the MAF .. that rubber connector is pretty beat up ... i'm hoping thats my culprit.

anyone have any advice / things to check? Would be redlining it throw it into any default limp mode or fuel cut off or anything?

 

My guess is your MAF.

 

It's sounds like the maf, mine went this summer. I had just done the gab mod and was taking it out for the first rip, got on it in first and then it just **** the bed and I had to unplug the maf to get it home. With the maf plugged in it would start up and die out right away and bog down even faster if I tried to keep it goin with the throttle.

Try unplugging the maf and see if it'll run, and then like u said, ur prob lookin at a vaccum leak after the maf, or the maf itself. There is a good testing procedure in the fsm, u just need a multimeter and some time. Good luck man

 

Sorry I'm on mobile so can't edit, but I have a thread called "gab mod, car won't idle" that has the fsm troubleshoot procedure and some other useful info on it.

 

unplugged the MAF and it idles now. hits fuel cut ~2400RPM as stated in your other thread.

if i can atleat get it home i can break out my multimeter and test a few things out.

 

worse case scenario is i bit the bullet and snag a 22680-2Y001 from courtesy parts, swap out the thermo resistor and hope for the best.

 

Maybe try a junk yard. It will be almost next weekend by the time you get something delivered from Courtesy or whoever.

 

 

Called several junk yards ... none have it

 

Curious why hitting red-line would be bad for the MAF. Of all the part that get stressed by high rpms, the MAF would be the least so.

 

It jerked pretty hard when it happened. I have the Berk intake and the arm isn't really secured.

 

My MAF died in a similar way. My guess is that it may have to do with an electrical surge, and a sudden change in voltage frying the circuits when there's a sudden change in intake volume...

I was going down a two-lane highway, and stuck behind a work van. I pulled into the oncoming traffic lane, stepped on the gas, the car downshifted, start to pick up, and bam. No power, and the car limped and sputtered down to 2500 RPM.

 

Ya, it'll run good enough to get you home, but crappy enough to **** you right off. The thermistor swap on a new aftermarket maf, that I got from a wrecker(believe it) worked for me and has held up for a couple months now. Good luck finding a used one at a wrecker, apparently they **** the bed commonly... Haha

I'd have a look around the classifieds, when I had that thread a couple guys on here offered to sell me a used one, I just didn't have confidence in one compared to the price of the new 5th gen ones. Just spend ur time waiting for it doin that troubleshoot and when it gets there, ull know its gonna work.

 

did some testing with my multimeter ... i may not have tested it properly, but i found a brand new 22680-2Y001 MAF for 74 bucks online ... f-it.

 

Got my 2001 MAF in the mail today. Did the swap. Went very well. Easy as everyone says it is.

When i was taking apart my intake the plastic cheapo MAF adapter that i bought over a year ago(was like 20 something bucks if i remember correctly) basicaly exploded as i pulled off the filter from the coupling.

I knew i would need another one if i had any chance of driving my car to work tomorrow so i stopped by this performance shop down the road that always has a ****load of nissan's out front. Best idea ever. ran into the guy who owns the shop and he's a badass. if i ever get any performance work done i'm going to him. he built and races a crazy altima and theres a video of him getting chased by a porsche on youtube .. the porsche never passes him.

at any rate he didnt have any adapters in the shop as he just makes his own, but he said i could ****** one of the ones from the parts store down the road and easily drill new holes ... thanks to him i'm driving my car tonight.

went to oriley's and bought an aluminum MAF adapter .. drilled some new holes and made it work for my car.

fired her up and all is well from my short trip around the block. didnt want to test it too much since its cold and wet out there, plus i wanted the epoxy to fully set before really driving ...

at any rate .. that was the problem and now its fixed. other than the CEL still being on and my tags expiring at the end of this month i'm good .. i assume after a few restarts the light will go away.

 

What's this shop you're speaking of?

I want in on the Nissan goodness. There aren't enough shops around here specializing in Nissans. The only one I know of is Crawford Z Car.

 

its precision motoring

www.precisionmotoring.com

dude was super cool. Its here in hermitage really close to to where OHB crosses over lebanon pike.

 

so i drove the car to work today and it went fine except that every now and then the idle would stumble while at a red light. it never died but it would get down below ~500RPM and really struggle to stay alive.

i assume this is because the ECU hasnt relearned anything yet. I tried to reset the ECU with the pedal method but i swear its f-ing impossible. I dont see anyone has every done it ... i dont want to unplug it for 24 hours nor can i afford to .. i have to drive to work every morning.

i assume it will eventually relearn the new sensor and adjust the idle accordingly but i wonder how long?

 

It should only take one or two drive cycles for the car to settle in. If it doesn't adjust in two or three days' time, I'd check everything out.

Oh, okay. I've heard of Precision before. I was just curious.

 

So I've cleared the codes with help from precision motoring. The only code that came back is for the IAT specifically. I used epoxy to secure the bend of the IAT. Could that mess with its resistance and cause this code?

 

fitness stain, where in hermitage are you? I havent seen any modded 5th gens lately

 

I live less than a mile away from the Hermitage.

 

same here. pic of your car?

 

Externally it's not modded.

 

That's a pic from last year

 

if you want to get rid of those wheels let me know

if you ever need hand with it Im always down to help out

 

Do we need to be friends now?

 

LOL

 

Serious though. I need to figure this out.

 

Check for vacuum/intake leaks?

 

Would that cause the IAT code though? I just took the sensor out and cleaned it with a qtip and alcohol.

 

I had the same thing happen to me back in early October and I replaced the MAF with a 2k1 version like you did...to this day it will still try to idle at < 500rpm every now and then but never dies.

 

did your CEL ever go away?

ive driven a decent amount since replacing it and clearing out all the codes the first time.

the only code now (as of Friday) is the IAT code ...

how did you secure the "bend" in your IAT to the new MAF? i used epoxy as noted above ... i'm wondering if that is causing issues with the sensor.

i might have to scrape it all out and try something different?

 

maybe we can get a beer sometime since we are both in the neighborhood.

Guess i should have said something like that last night ... didnt mean to come across ****ish

was kinda drunk when i posted that.

 

I have a constant CEL for an EVAP problem but no code pertaining to the MAF.

I simply bent the tabs over to hold it in place, it's not going anywhere.

 

i used some needle nose pliers to crimp the two metal parts into place maybe i should try to get all the epoxy off ... i have a feeling thats going to be a ****ing chore though ...

 

Its all good. It was funny to me

 

okay ... i have tried the pedal ECU reset procedure before and never got it working, but didnt realize the car needed to be at operating temp.

let the car idle to temp and surprisingly was able to do the procedure after about the 4th try. having a stopwatch app on my phone helped for sure...

at any rate the CEL is gone now. Car seems to be a bit better although it still idles pretty low at times. never dies, but gets pretty damn low. This could be a unrelated problem though i guess. I'm overdue for some spark plugs so maybe at idle they are just not working as well as they do when in higher RPM ranges...

could be a vacuum leak too, however wouldnt the symptoms of a vacuum leak exist throughout the RPM range? This stumble ONLY happens when at idle. The car does seem to be trying to correct the idle as well.

at anyrate i drove the car around for about 20 minutes, varying speeds and gears and RPM ranges ... also got on the interstate and opened her up a little bit ... no issues. car responded as it used to ... i guess only time will tell.

I think i'm going to try to pull codes one more time just to see if its still showing ... although i guess as long as the CEL is off there are no codes?

 

Try cleaning your MAF..

 

you mean the MAF that i got brand new a week ago? lol


if i have no CEL, do i have codes still stored that might show up with emissions testing?


still no CEL for me after doing the ECU reset pedal procedure yesterday... .car seems to be getting a little better with the low idle stumble, but its still there.