EU install cranks won't start...HELP!!!
12-25-2011, 04:17 PM
#1
EU install cranks won't start...HELP!!!
I go to install my EU, so I unplug the battery. Leave it off and leave the ECU unplugged while I make the connects on my patch harness, come back connect it up and I get no power to the EU. The security light is on rock solid while the key is in the ON position. I remove the EU and the car cranks and cranks but won't start and the security light is on rock solid in the ON position. Everything else works, lights, radio, etc but with the EU connected it doesn't get any power and without the EU the car won't start. I didn't try starting the car with the EU plugged up since I haven't setup the EU yet.
I'm thinking the NATS immobilized the car but wouldn't I still get power to the EU when its plugged in if that was the case? Or does the NATS cut power to the ECU?
Everything was fine before this.
I'm thinking the NATS immobilized the car but wouldn't I still get power to the EU when its plugged in if that was the case? Or does the NATS cut power to the ECU?
Everything was fine before this.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 12-25-2011 at 04:20 PM.
12-25-2011, 04:51 PM
#2
If the light on the EU isn't turned on, the EU isn't on. Check power, ground & injector ground wires.
If it cranks but doesn't fire, check the wiring on your injectors & ignition coils. The input/output wires may be reversed. When I initially hooked up my EU, I made this mistake, and the car cranked all day and wouldn't start a lot like yours.
If it cranks but doesn't fire, check the wiring on your injectors & ignition coils. The input/output wires may be reversed. When I initially hooked up my EU, I made this mistake, and the car cranked all day and wouldn't start a lot like yours.
12-25-2011, 05:09 PM
#3
If the light on the EU isn't turned on, the EU isn't on. Check power, ground & injector ground wires.
If it cranks but doesn't fire, check the wiring on your injectors & ignition coils. The input/output wires may be reversed. When I initially hooked up my EU, I made this mistake, and the car cranked all day and wouldn't start a lot like yours.
If it cranks but doesn't fire, check the wiring on your injectors & ignition coils. The input/output wires may be reversed. When I initially hooked up my EU, I made this mistake, and the car cranked all day and wouldn't start a lot like yours.
The problem is it won't start when I put it back to stock, that's whats driving me crazy. Can you or someone do me a favor and see when you put the key to the on position of the security light stays on solid red?
Also when I put the key to the ON position the only lights that come up is the battery, oil pressure, brake light and OD light, no CEL light.
12-25-2011, 05:39 PM
#4
CEL light doesn't illuminate at all, I plugged up my code reader and got an error on the screen meaning it couldn't read the ECU.
I plugged up the EU and tried to crank it, same thing just crank and security light is on rock solid while in the ON position but not when cranking.
I took the chip out of the key and cranked it and it did the same thing except the security light stayed on rock solid even during cranking.
I checked battery voltage and it is 12.25-12.45 volts depending on if anything else is on etc.
Is my ECU fried? I would imagine if my ECU was fried it wouldn't crank at all though and nothing else would work right?
I checked all fuses and noticed when I put it in the ON position there is a buzz from under the hood. IDK what it is and I really don't think its related.
What's stumping me is the EU isn't powering on so basically its not getting any power, but how can the car crank if there is no power to the EU or ECU?
I plugged up the EU and tried to crank it, same thing just crank and security light is on rock solid while in the ON position but not when cranking.
I took the chip out of the key and cranked it and it did the same thing except the security light stayed on rock solid even during cranking.
I checked battery voltage and it is 12.25-12.45 volts depending on if anything else is on etc.
Is my ECU fried? I would imagine if my ECU was fried it wouldn't crank at all though and nothing else would work right?
I checked all fuses and noticed when I put it in the ON position there is a buzz from under the hood. IDK what it is and I really don't think its related.
What's stumping me is the EU isn't powering on so basically its not getting any power, but how can the car crank if there is no power to the EU or ECU?
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 12-25-2011 at 05:41 PM.
12-25-2011, 06:08 PM
#7
EU=E-manage Ultimate
I'm 90% sure the ecu is fried, the fuel pump isn't getting power and its fuse is fine. And there is basically no power at the ecu and I can't communicate with it at all using the obdII scanner. Didn't know a car would crank without the ecu. I rechecked the EU wiring and plugged it back up and it gets no power from the ecu.
What would make the ecu fry though, just unplugging it and plugging it? Or do I have a bad IACV? If the buzzing is the normal IACV stuff then that means its working right?
I don't see the EU frying it since the EU never even got power at all.
I'm 90% sure the ecu is fried, the fuel pump isn't getting power and its fuse is fine. And there is basically no power at the ecu and I can't communicate with it at all using the obdII scanner. Didn't know a car would crank without the ecu. I rechecked the EU wiring and plugged it back up and it gets no power from the ecu.
What would make the ecu fry though, just unplugging it and plugging it? Or do I have a bad IACV? If the buzzing is the normal IACV stuff then that means its working right?
I don't see the EU frying it since the EU never even got power at all.
12-25-2011, 06:10 PM
#8
It stays on in the ON position but isn't on while cranking, now when I removed the chip it was on even when cranking which is leading me to believe its not the NATS.
12-25-2011, 10:51 PM
#11
Doubt its NATS there seems to be no power at the ecu and no power to the fuel pump, unless NATS does that.
Can someone confirm if the security light is supposed to be on solid when the key is in the ON position?
Yes of course I took it off, disconnected the ecu, made sure my patch harness fits, left everything disconnected, connected it all up, plugged it up, stuck the negative back on, and then it just didn't work anymore.
I just pulled the ecu and took it apart, I don't see anything wrong with it. On the bottom of the circuit there is a darkish blue/violet colored figure looks like a lower case n, but that looks like an indentifier not anything wrong with the circuit board but I'm not sure. Here's some pics I just took:
This is the mark
This is whats on the other side of where the mark exists
I have a feeling its just a mark and not anything bad.
Idk if to call a locksmith for the NATS or if to go get another ecu
Can someone confirm if the security light is supposed to be on solid when the key is in the ON position?
I just pulled the ecu and took it apart, I don't see anything wrong with it. On the bottom of the circuit there is a darkish blue/violet colored figure looks like a lower case n, but that looks like an indentifier not anything wrong with the circuit board but I'm not sure. Here's some pics I just took:
This is the mark
This is whats on the other side of where the mark exists
I have a feeling its just a mark and not anything bad.
Idk if to call a locksmith for the NATS or if to go get another ecu
12-25-2011, 11:06 PM
#12
After looking through the FSM it seems like its the NATS not the ecu, maybe when I left the ecu unplugged the key somehow got unregistered. I guess I'll call a locksmith tomorrow morning and see what happens.
I'm ruling out the ecu after removing it and finding nothing to be wrong.
I'm ruling out the ecu after removing it and finding nothing to be wrong.
12-26-2011, 09:19 AM
#15
The ring is green, the only thing that leads me to believe its NATS is the security light on solid red when key position is in ON but not starting the car, when cranking the security light isn't there. That's why I need someone to confirm if when the key is in the ON position is that security light supposed to be on solid red.
12-26-2011, 11:14 AM
#21
Thanks bro!
I guess they do I called them and they said they do Nissans so I gave them the car information.
Its $85 to reprogram my current POS key which is in terrible shape btw the loop is even broken on it and the previos owner tried to drill a hole in it
Or its $139 for a brand new reprogrammed key.
Hope this fixes it, thanks again for your help!
I guess they do I called them and they said they do Nissans so I gave them the car information.
Its $85 to reprogram my current POS key which is in terrible shape btw the loop is even broken on it and the previos owner tried to drill a hole in it
Or its $139 for a brand new reprogrammed key.
Hope this fixes it, thanks again for your help!
12-26-2011, 02:33 PM
#22
Its not NATS the fukin ecu is burned, TWO locksmiths came out with 2 different programs that they have used on Nissan's before and they couldn't even communicate with the car AT ALL! They checked fuses, etc and couldn't find a problem and both came to the conclusion that the ecu is burned. So I'm out of $75 bucks and now have to buy an ecu.
I still don't get how it burned out, I have checked the EU wiring TWICE and haven't found anything wrong.
I still don't get how it burned out, I have checked the EU wiring TWICE and haven't found anything wrong.
12-26-2011, 06:42 PM
#23
Odd, I have delt with NATS issues, they throw a code, and allow cranking but no start, solid Security light.
You should be able to communicate with the ECU though. Seems to me that you connected some wiring wrong, and when you hooked it up you may have damaged the ECU unfortunately!
MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE/FIX ALL WIRING BEFORE TRYING A NEW ECU
You should be able to communicate with the ECU though. Seems to me that you connected some wiring wrong, and when you hooked it up you may have damaged the ECU unfortunately!
MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE/FIX ALL WIRING BEFORE TRYING A NEW ECU
12-26-2011, 09:13 PM
#24
Odd, I have delt with NATS issues, they throw a code, and allow cranking but no start, solid Security light.
You should be able to communicate with the ECU though. Seems to me that you connected some wiring wrong, and when you hooked it up you may have damaged the ECU unfortunately!
MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE/FIX ALL WIRING BEFORE TRYING A NEW ECU
You should be able to communicate with the ECU though. Seems to me that you connected some wiring wrong, and when you hooked it up you may have damaged the ECU unfortunately!
MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE/FIX ALL WIRING BEFORE TRYING A NEW ECU
Like I said after plugging in the battery the EU never turned on so basically it never got power AT ALL, so how it could have burned out I have no idea. Doesn't it get power once I put the key in and turn it?
I even opened it and checked it and there is no visible signs of any problems. I wish I did find the wiring was wrong then I would know what the problem is, now I just have to hope the same thing doesn't happen to the new one.
Once I get the new one in I'll throw it in without the EU and get the key programmed. Then I'll recheck the wiring again and plug up the EU.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 12-26-2011 at 09:16 PM.
12-26-2011, 09:26 PM
#25
did you make a patch harness or solder it into your ecu harness?
you should try removing the EU and just plugging in the ECU first, before you do anything else. The EU should get power no matter if the ECU gets power.
you should try removing the EU and just plugging in the ECU first, before you do anything else. The EU should get power no matter if the ECU gets power.
12-26-2011, 09:38 PM
#26
Is it possible the ecu relay under the hood burnt up? How can I check it? I'm guessing remove it and check if there is power traveling to it. I'll have to check it tomorrow, you really got me thinking McSteve, thanks!
12-26-2011, 09:39 PM
#27
After doing some research I think it is probably the key as well. The only thing I can think of, Prob not it but just thowing it out there. It could have got a surge of power and damaged the ECU? Im with you in seeing no obvious damage but you know as well as I do, electrical components can look good and still not work
EDIT:Thats what im thinking with the above statement. A power surge could have damaged it and burnt it up or at least made it hot enough to make the components fail?
EDIT:Thats what im thinking with the above statement. A power surge could have damaged it and burnt it up or at least made it hot enough to make the components fail?
Last edited by ShocknAwe; 12-26-2011 at 09:42 PM.
12-26-2011, 10:07 PM
#28
check to see if pins 110 & 112 both are R/G wires have 12v with the ign on. Backup power comes on pin 67 W/L wire. 12 with IGN off. Your ING wire R pin 43 should have no volts off and 12v on. Check there. Also check your fuses under the hood cause if your not getting voltage to the ECU, Your problem will be there. Your NATS my be working fine, Its just not seeing the ECU cause the ECU is not getting power. Really check those fusible links under the hood cause they me not look like its blown cause the sight glass may be a little hazed so just to be sure, pull'em and look from the bottom. Hope this helps.
12-26-2011, 10:16 PM
#29
After doing some research I think it is probably the key as well. The only thing I can think of, Prob not it but just thowing it out there. It could have got a surge of power and damaged the ECU? Im with you in seeing no obvious damage but you know as well as I do, electrical components can look good and still not work
EDIT:
Thats what im thinking with the above statement. A power surge could have damaged it and burnt it up or at least made it hot enough to make the components fail?
EDIT:
Thats what im thinking with the above statement. A power surge could have damaged it and burnt it up or at least made it hot enough to make the components fail?
check to see if pins 110 & 112 both are R/G wires have 12v with the ign on. Backup power comes on pin 67 W/L wire. 12 with IGN off. Your ING wire R pin 43 should have no volts off and 12v on. Check there. Also check your fuses under the hood cause if your not getting voltage to the ECU, Your problem will be there. Your NATS my be working fine, Its just not seeing the ECU cause the ECU is not getting power. Really check those fusible links under the hood cause they me not look like its blown cause the sight glass may be a little hazed so just to be sure, pull'em and look from the bottom. Hope this helps.
I tried checking voltage at the ecu connector while the ecu is unplugged, it should still be getting power right? Well I tried to check pins 112 and 110 (power) vs the bolt that holds down the pass. seat ( that should be an ok ground) while the key was turned to on, I got nothing. I tried to measure at the same pins while putting the ground on pin 48 which is the ecu ground, still got nothing. These wires should still see power whether they are plugged to anything or not.
All the fuses checked out, does that mean the relay is ok?
12-26-2011, 10:27 PM
#30
Ok looking at the ecu schematic right now, duh I should know this of course the fuses go to the relay and then the relay goes to the ecu. The only pin that gets power before the relay is pin 67, both pins 110 and 112 get power after the relay. Looks like my relay is shot. Now what I don't understand is how the iacv is buzzing even though its supposed to get power after the ecu relay as well? Also, makes sense why the fuel pump isn't turning on either.
At this point the problem is pointing to the relay, I'm going to replace that first.
At this point the problem is pointing to the relay, I'm going to replace that first.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 12-26-2011 at 11:06 PM.
12-26-2011, 10:36 PM
#31
Winnerrrrrrrrr!!!! I thought it was probably the relay. I would be curious to know how this all happened though. It never seizes to amaze me the weird electrical problems max's have. I swear over the life of it probably every single electrical component will fail or malfunction.
12-26-2011, 11:05 PM
#32
Winnerrrrrrrrr!!!! I thought it was probably the relay. I would be curious to know how this all happened though. It never seizes to amaze me the weird electrical problems max's have. I swear over the life of it probably every single electrical component will fail or malfunction.
This is all assuming the checks I did were correct and I'll recheck them tomorrow when I come home from work.
12-26-2011, 11:15 PM
#36
12-30-2011, 01:39 PM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 42
Time to punt! Take the EU out of the equation and put the Max back to where it was before the wiring harness patch. It is possible to have a short in the EU or a mucked up connection. Trouble shoot this without the EU in the loop. Good luck.