At A Loss with window Issue. :confused:
At A Loss with window Issue. :confused:
My driver side rear window will not work, I replaced the switch,No good, Replaced the motor, no good, today i replaced the master switch, still nothing.....All the other windows work as normal bit that one, If I touch the connectors with a battery on the motor it works, I cannot figure this one out, I am baffled. I even traced the wires and found nothing out of the ordinary.Can anyone chime in and help me resolve this issue possibly ? 
My driver side rear window will not work, I replaced the switch,No good, Replaced the motor, no good, today i replaced the master switch, still nothing.....All the other windows work as normal bit that one, If I touch the connectors with a battery on the motor it works, I cannot figure this one out, I am baffled. I even traced the wires and found nothing out of the ordinary.Can anyone chime in and help me resolve this issue possibly ?
Connect a test light to the back door switch and use the front door switch to see if it lights up.if it dont theres a wire issue between the switches if it does move the light to the motor and try again.also make sure the pins in the switch connector are pushed all the way in i have seen them back themself out of the connector sometimes.
The light in the switch is part of the dash lights. All one can say is that one wire is good.
Are the window switches you replaced new or used? Used/junkyard switches could be bad when you get them. The 2 rear door window switches are the same thing if you want to consider swapping them. Also, check for 12 volts on the white/blue stripe wire on the rear window switch when the ignition switch is on.
Are the window switches you replaced new or used? Used/junkyard switches could be bad when you get them. The 2 rear door window switches are the same thing if you want to consider swapping them. Also, check for 12 volts on the white/blue stripe wire on the rear window switch when the ignition switch is on.
Last edited by DennisMik; Jan 1, 2012 at 01:46 PM.
Everything cjandura and Dennis said 
Post back results. Swapping door switches is a good idea. And I would point to the Master switch as well but if you replaced that with a good one then it seems like wiring or a plug/harness may be at fault.
Do what cjandura said with testing. You want to follow from the main FEED (master switch) to the ACTUATOR (rear window motor). There's 2 terminals out from the master switch that run directly to the rear door. When you press UP one has power, the other gets ground. When you press DOWN, they reverse. This means that after you check for power you also need to check for ground, you know how to do that I assume?
Check power/ground at the master switch harness going out, if that's good, check it at the rear switch harness going in. If that's good, check power/ground going OUT from the rear switch, if that's good check at the motor itself. Everything is 12V, use an incandecent test light, NOT an LED test light.
And the illumination circuit (lighted switch) has nothing to do with this it's a completely separate circuit FYI, as Dennis eluded to.
Post back results. Swapping door switches is a good idea. And I would point to the Master switch as well but if you replaced that with a good one then it seems like wiring or a plug/harness may be at fault.
Do what cjandura said with testing. You want to follow from the main FEED (master switch) to the ACTUATOR (rear window motor). There's 2 terminals out from the master switch that run directly to the rear door. When you press UP one has power, the other gets ground. When you press DOWN, they reverse. This means that after you check for power you also need to check for ground, you know how to do that I assume?
Check power/ground at the master switch harness going out, if that's good, check it at the rear switch harness going in. If that's good, check power/ground going OUT from the rear switch, if that's good check at the motor itself. Everything is 12V, use an incandecent test light, NOT an LED test light.
And the illumination circuit (lighted switch) has nothing to do with this it's a completely separate circuit FYI, as Dennis eluded to.
Everything cjandura and Dennis said
Post back results. Swapping door switches is a good idea. And I would point to the Master switch as well but if you replaced that with a good one then it seems like wiring or a plug/harness may be at fault.
Do what cjandura said with testing. You want to follow from the main FEED (master switch) to the ACTUATOR (rear window motor). There's 2 terminals out from the master switch that run directly to the rear door. When you press UP one has power, the other gets ground. When you press DOWN, they reverse. This means that after you check for power you also need to check for ground, you know how to do that I assume?
Check power/ground at the master switch harness going out, if that's good, check it at the rear switch harness going in. If that's good, check power/ground going OUT from the rear switch, if that's good check at the motor itself. Everything is 12V, use an incandecent test light, NOT an LED test light.
And the illumination circuit (lighted switch) has nothing to do with this it's a completely separate circuit FYI, as Dennis eluded to.
Post back results. Swapping door switches is a good idea. And I would point to the Master switch as well but if you replaced that with a good one then it seems like wiring or a plug/harness may be at fault.
Do what cjandura said with testing. You want to follow from the main FEED (master switch) to the ACTUATOR (rear window motor). There's 2 terminals out from the master switch that run directly to the rear door. When you press UP one has power, the other gets ground. When you press DOWN, they reverse. This means that after you check for power you also need to check for ground, you know how to do that I assume?
Check power/ground at the master switch harness going out, if that's good, check it at the rear switch harness going in. If that's good, check power/ground going OUT from the rear switch, if that's good check at the motor itself. Everything is 12V, use an incandecent test light, NOT an LED test light.
And the illumination circuit (lighted switch) has nothing to do with this it's a completely separate circuit FYI, as Dennis eluded to.
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