CF Hood FTW!
01-19-2012, 07:38 PM
#82
Alright took it to T&R racing, got charged 58 bucks to get it fitted -___- total rip off. Im kinda mad my mechanic sent me there, he was shocked because he knows the guys there and thought i would have gotten it free. Whatever....it fits better, much lower, they took off the latch and did some weird adjusting thing. It sits almost aligned with the fenders. Like Tunermax said, 80% hahaha. thanks man and to finish that 20% i will need those locks. Someone is buying my old hood so i will be hitting you up soon!
01-19-2012, 09:05 PM
#89
Alright took it to T&R racing, got charged 58 bucks to get it fitted -___- total rip off. Im kinda mad my mechanic sent me there, he was shocked because he knows the guys there and thought i would have gotten it free. Whatever....it fits better, much lower, they took off the latch and did some weird adjusting thing. It sits almost aligned with the fenders. Like Tunermax said, 80% hahaha. thanks man and to finish that 20% i will need those locks. Someone is buying my old hood so i will be hitting you up soon!
01-19-2012, 10:09 PM
#90
I wouldn't advise it unless you've got a good background of measuring 10 times and drilling cutting once
. And a steady hand.I drilled the center hole like you would for a normal hood pin, then used the template, traced the inside edge with a 1/8" drill bit in connect the dot fashion, then used a fine 1/8" burr bit in a dremel and followed it around. Then test fit, using 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 3/4" wooden rod to make the final adjustments until it fit perfect.
01-20-2012, 06:04 AM
#91
Yuuuup. Drill and dremel handiwork.
Sounds halfway decent. If I did it on the side I'd want that much but my work is expensive these days. Make sure they install tape while doing any drilling or cutting on the CF surface, keeps it from chipping.
I wouldn't advise it unless you've got a good background of measuring 10 times and drilling cutting once. And a steady hand.
I drilled the center hole like you would for a normal hood pin, then used the template, traced the inside edge with a 1/8" drill bit in connect the dot fashion, then used a fine 1/8" burr bit in a dremel and followed it around. Then test fit, using 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 3/4" wooden rod to make the final adjustments until it fit perfect.
Sounds halfway decent. If I did it on the side I'd want that much but my work is expensive these days. Make sure they install tape while doing any drilling or cutting on the CF surface, keeps it from chipping.
I wouldn't advise it unless you've got a good background of measuring 10 times and drilling cutting once
. And a steady hand.I drilled the center hole like you would for a normal hood pin, then used the template, traced the inside edge with a 1/8" drill bit in connect the dot fashion, then used a fine 1/8" burr bit in a dremel and followed it around. Then test fit, using 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 3/4" wooden rod to make the final adjustments until it fit perfect.
01-20-2012, 07:33 AM
#93
LOL you got it. While your at it, I think I will take those brackets you made, I want the latches to sit on the hood closer to the fender. It will hold the ends lower and make it for completely flush, making the hood look 100% oem fitment!
01-22-2012, 01:37 AM
#98
Yea man the fitment is definitely better. The hood locks should make it 100% flush! And yes u are definitely right about that. Wasn't too much work to make it fit, just some moving around and hood latch adjustments. Thanks again bro!
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