Instrument Cluster Swap Problems
03-09-2012, 06:16 AM
#1
Instrument Cluster Swap Problems
Hello fellow 'orgers, I need your help.
I installed an SE Titanium Ed. instrument cluster (with LED mod) on my '01 GXE. I pulled the mileage chip off my old cluster and soldered it onto the 'new' cluster. After I installed it, I have the following problems:
ABS light is on
Speedometer doesn't work
Odometer shows last current mileage, but not clocking new mileage.
My old cluster is the slim type, with the one-piece gauge face plastic overlay. The new cluster is thicker, has individual gauge faces that are screwed onto the cluster housing. However, harness plugs are identical.
I'm stumped and need some help trying to figure this out - something went wrong, or did I get a dud cluster?
I installed an SE Titanium Ed. instrument cluster (with LED mod) on my '01 GXE. I pulled the mileage chip off my old cluster and soldered it onto the 'new' cluster. After I installed it, I have the following problems:
ABS light is on
Speedometer doesn't work
Odometer shows last current mileage, but not clocking new mileage.
My old cluster is the slim type, with the one-piece gauge face plastic overlay. The new cluster is thicker, has individual gauge faces that are screwed onto the cluster housing. However, harness plugs are identical.
I'm stumped and need some help trying to figure this out - something went wrong, or did I get a dud cluster?
03-09-2012, 06:34 AM
#2
Need more information brah because to help you I have to go digging through a pile of diagrams from the FSM.
1. All the options on your car that apply
2. All the options on the car you got the gauges from
what you've done to make these work other than plug them in expecting good results.
You've swapped completely different clusters that work on cars with different transmissions, engines, ecus, etc, etc. Expecting plug and play? Hopefully you weren't, because they won't be.
Also, you say the odometer is showing the mileage from your old gauges but not accumulating new mileage, is this correct?
1. All the options on your car that apply
2. All the options on the car you got the gauges from
what you've done to make these work other than plug them in expecting good results.
You've swapped completely different clusters that work on cars with different transmissions, engines, ecus, etc, etc. Expecting plug and play? Hopefully you weren't, because they won't be.
Also, you say the odometer is showing the mileage from your old gauges but not accumulating new mileage, is this correct?
03-09-2012, 06:36 AM
#3
I feel like there are too many differences between the 01 and 03. I'm sure these engine differences translate to the cluster getting different readings. I wonder if anyone here can jump in with knowledge on how speed is calculated. Maybe the 00-01 models used a transmission sensor and the 02-03 models had another method?
03-09-2012, 07:05 AM
#4
I feel like there are too many differences between the 01 and 03. I'm sure these engine differences translate to the cluster getting different readings. I wonder if anyone here can jump in with knowledge on how speed is calculated. Maybe the 00-01 models used a transmission sensor and the 02-03 models had another method?
03-09-2012, 08:03 AM
#5
If you want a candid answer, yes - I expected to plug it in and have everything work perfectly, lol! (sigh...).
About my ride, it's an '01 GXE (production date: 05/01). Options that may be relevant are:
Automatic
Cruise Control
Radio Steering Wheel Control
Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror
Non-Bose
Electric Driver's Seat
Manual HVAC Controls
All I know about the new cluster, according to the seller - it that it's off a '00-'01 Titanium SE. Cluster is for an automatic.
To do the swap, all I did was diassemble mine, remove the mileage chip, and solder it into the new cluster (mileage chip had been previously removed). On mine, I had to pull the needles to get the board out in order to remove the chip (and I didn't "calibrate" prior to disassembly doh!). On the new one though, it was not necessary.
Another couple of things I noticed on my way to work this morning - coincidentally, the SES light came on. I don't know if it's related or not. I'll have to get my scanner from my brother to pull the codes. Also, the fuel gauge is off-calibration. My tank was practically empty and it was reading about 1/3.
Hope this is helpful and thanks everyone.
About my ride, it's an '01 GXE (production date: 05/01). Options that may be relevant are:
Automatic
Cruise Control
Radio Steering Wheel Control
Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror
Non-Bose
Electric Driver's Seat
Manual HVAC Controls
All I know about the new cluster, according to the seller - it that it's off a '00-'01 Titanium SE. Cluster is for an automatic.
To do the swap, all I did was diassemble mine, remove the mileage chip, and solder it into the new cluster (mileage chip had been previously removed). On mine, I had to pull the needles to get the board out in order to remove the chip (and I didn't "calibrate" prior to disassembly doh!). On the new one though, it was not necessary.
Another couple of things I noticed on my way to work this morning - coincidentally, the SES light came on. I don't know if it's related or not. I'll have to get my scanner from my brother to pull the codes. Also, the fuel gauge is off-calibration. My tank was practically empty and it was reading about 1/3.
Hope this is helpful and thanks everyone.
03-09-2012, 08:06 AM
#6
Correct, mileage from old gauges showing, but not accumulating new mileage. Trip counters are also both at 0.0, although I can still toggle between A and B.
03-09-2012, 08:13 AM
#7
How much work do you want to put into this to get it to work? There are enough differences between the two clusters where you'll have to "trick" a few things. You'll need to compare the diagrams from 02-03 and your car. Then trace the electrical lines and do some sort of method to trick anything which is different.
Honestly...it might be best to go back to the old cluster.
BTW...that SES light is likely meaningless because I'd imagine the emissions system tolerances between the two models are different.
Honestly...it might be best to go back to the old cluster.
BTW...that SES light is likely meaningless because I'd imagine the emissions system tolerances between the two models are different.
03-09-2012, 08:16 AM
#8
^ just to clarify, the new cluster is allegedly off a '00 - '01, and mine is an '01. However, thy're still different. If I can't get help figuring this out, I will have no option but to go back to the old cluster. (However, I might make my own overlay, using the gauge faces off the new cluster).
If I resort to that, my problem is going to be calibrating the gauges, since I did not bother to do so before disassembling the original one... but if it's possible to get it to work, I want to give it a shot.
If I resort to that, my problem is going to be calibrating the gauges, since I did not bother to do so before disassembling the original one... but if it's possible to get it to work, I want to give it a shot.
03-09-2012, 09:17 AM
#10
If you want a candid answer, yes - I expected to plug it in and have everything work perfectly, lol! (sigh...).
About my ride, it's an '01 GXE (production date: 05/01). Options that may be relevant are:
Automatic
Cruise Control
Radio Steering Wheel Control
Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror
Non-Bose
Electric Driver's Seat
Manual HVAC Controls
All I know about the new cluster, according to the seller - it that it's off a '00-'01 Titanium SE. Cluster is for an automatic.
To do the swap, all I did was diassemble mine, remove the mileage chip, and solder it into the new cluster (mileage chip had been previously removed). On mine, I had to pull the needles to get the board out in order to remove the chip (and I didn't "calibrate" prior to disassembly doh!). On the new one though, it was not necessary.
Another couple of things I noticed on my way to work this morning - coincidentally, the SES light came on. I don't know if it's related or not. I'll have to get my scanner from my brother to pull the codes. Also, the fuel gauge is off-calibration. My tank was practically empty and it was reading about 1/3.
Hope this is helpful and thanks everyone.
About my ride, it's an '01 GXE (production date: 05/01). Options that may be relevant are:
Automatic
Cruise Control
Radio Steering Wheel Control
Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror
Non-Bose
Electric Driver's Seat
Manual HVAC Controls
All I know about the new cluster, according to the seller - it that it's off a '00-'01 Titanium SE. Cluster is for an automatic.
To do the swap, all I did was diassemble mine, remove the mileage chip, and solder it into the new cluster (mileage chip had been previously removed). On mine, I had to pull the needles to get the board out in order to remove the chip (and I didn't "calibrate" prior to disassembly doh!). On the new one though, it was not necessary.
Another couple of things I noticed on my way to work this morning - coincidentally, the SES light came on. I don't know if it's related or not. I'll have to get my scanner from my brother to pull the codes. Also, the fuel gauge is off-calibration. My tank was practically empty and it was reading about 1/3.
Hope this is helpful and thanks everyone.
The only year the Titanium edition was offered was 2003. And all Titanium's were SE's.
Seems there is some miscommunication here, post pictures.
^ just to clarify, the new cluster is allegedly off a '00 - '01, and mine is an '01. However, thy're still different. If I can't get help figuring this out, I will have no option but to go back to the old cluster. (However, I might make my own overlay, using the gauge faces off the new cluster).
If I resort to that, my problem is going to be calibrating the gauges, since I did not bother to do so before disassembling the original one... but if it's possible to get it to work, I want to give it a shot.
If I resort to that, my problem is going to be calibrating the gauges, since I did not bother to do so before disassembling the original one... but if it's possible to get it to work, I want to give it a shot.
03-09-2012, 09:39 AM
#13
That's a 2001 SE gauge cluster.
your old cluster shouldn't have required needle removal, you could've just unscrewed the gauges from the circuit board that's all that holds them on.
So you have either damaged something while soldering the chip, bent a pin on one of the harnesses, or the gauge cluster you got from buddy is trash.
your old cluster shouldn't have required needle removal, you could've just unscrewed the gauges from the circuit board that's all that holds them on.
So you have either damaged something while soldering the chip, bent a pin on one of the harnesses, or the gauge cluster you got from buddy is trash.
03-09-2012, 09:44 AM
#15
That's a 2001 SE gauge cluster.
your old cluster shouldn't have required needle removal, you could've just unscrewed the gauges from the circuit board that's all that holds them on.
So you have either damaged something while soldering the chip, bent a pin on one of the harnesses, or the gauge cluster you got from buddy is trash.
your old cluster shouldn't have required needle removal, you could've just unscrewed the gauges from the circuit board that's all that holds them on.
So you have either damaged something while soldering the chip, bent a pin on one of the harnesses, or the gauge cluster you got from buddy is trash.
What do you make of the lack of O/D funtion? At the bottom of the gear indicator on the new cluster, there appears to be some sort of indicator which looks nothing like the O/D indicator on the old one. I just went and turned on the car, clicked the O/D on & off, and nothing lights up on the cluster.
03-09-2012, 09:49 AM
#16
Another thing which may or may not be relevant: I'm not familiar with the "SE" vs "SE Titanium" clusters, but the camera makes the new cluster's gauge faces look white, but in person they are a very light silver color.
03-09-2012, 09:56 AM
#17
I tried every which was to disassemble the old one without removing the needles, but it was not possible. The gauges are not screwed on, like in the new one. The mechanism (which appears to be a magnetic drive of some sort) is integrated into the circuit board. In order to separate the circuit board, it required removing the needles (which I had to do to get to the chip).
What do you make of the lack of O/D funtion? At the bottom of the gear indicator on the new cluster, there appears to be some sort of indicator which looks nothing like the O/D indicator on the old one. I just went and turned on the car, clicked the O/D on & off, and nothing lights up on the cluster.
What do you make of the lack of O/D funtion? At the bottom of the gear indicator on the new cluster, there appears to be some sort of indicator which looks nothing like the O/D indicator on the old one. I just went and turned on the car, clicked the O/D on & off, and nothing lights up on the cluster.
Your old gauge face was glued on, and the gauges are soldered to the board.
The O/D is probably there just not visible when off.
where I think this is coming from, is the shiny cover that is on them, which is NOT STOCK. Someone added that.
Again the 'new' gauges you have are the exact same ones I have downstairs, they're off a January+ 2001 production date SE.
And again, they should work perfectly fine, I've swapped these clusters before.
03-09-2012, 10:01 AM
#18
The "shiny thing" is just a fleabay bezel I put on there when I did the swap - it's just a tape-on overlay that does not interact with the gauge operation at all.
So it sounds like I got a bunk set of gauges. I'm going to disassemble and make sure I didn't bend a pin. Otherwise, I need to get a hold of Shinjiduo...
In the meantime - looks like I have to go back to the old cluster. Any way to calibrate the gauges after the fact? (I know, I'm an idiot - I didn't do my homework prior to diving in).
So it sounds like I got a bunk set of gauges. I'm going to disassemble and make sure I didn't bend a pin. Otherwise, I need to get a hold of Shinjiduo...
In the meantime - looks like I have to go back to the old cluster. Any way to calibrate the gauges after the fact? (I know, I'm an idiot - I didn't do my homework prior to diving in).
03-09-2012, 10:02 AM
#19
Some of the 2k and 2k1 gauge clusters have the screws to disassemble the board and others do not. I think it's just luck depending on which one to get.
As far as the O/D you should see some sort of outline like the gears. If it isn't there then I don't know what to think. I'm not terribly familiar with the 2k2, 2k3 gauge clusters. Maybe start doing a search for images on 2k2 and 2k3 gauge clusters? Plenty of members have posted pics of their cluster for various reasons.
I suspect you have a 2k2 gauge cluster with the aluminum overlay.
As far as the O/D you should see some sort of outline like the gears. If it isn't there then I don't know what to think. I'm not terribly familiar with the 2k2, 2k3 gauge clusters. Maybe start doing a search for images on 2k2 and 2k3 gauge clusters? Plenty of members have posted pics of their cluster for various reasons.
I suspect you have a 2k2 gauge cluster with the aluminum overlay.
03-09-2012, 10:10 AM
#20
I'm going to bounce out for a few to go check the pins on the harnesses. In the meantime, I would deeply appreciate some info on how to calibrate the gauges. Even if I get the speedo working and the ABS light to turn off, the fuel guage in the new cluster is way off - it showed a 1/3 full when my tank was nearly empty.
If I have to go back to the old cluster, I suspect I need to calibrate them somehow, since I pulled the needles without recording any references. I'll be checking in - thanks all, especially TunerMax3000: you are being incredibly helpful.
If I have to go back to the old cluster, I suspect I need to calibrate them somehow, since I pulled the needles without recording any references. I'll be checking in - thanks all, especially TunerMax3000: you are being incredibly helpful.
03-09-2012, 10:12 AM
#21
Some of the 2k and 2k1 gauge clusters have the screws to disassemble the board and others do not. I think it's just luck depending on which one to get.
As far as the O/D you should see some sort of outline like the gears. If it isn't there then I don't know what to think. I'm not terribly familiar with the 2k2, 2k3 gauge clusters. Maybe start doing a search for images on 2k2 and 2k3 gauge clusters? Plenty of members have posted pics of their cluster for various reasons.
I suspect you have a 2k2 gauge cluster with the aluminum overlay.
As far as the O/D you should see some sort of outline like the gears. If it isn't there then I don't know what to think. I'm not terribly familiar with the 2k2, 2k3 gauge clusters. Maybe start doing a search for images on 2k2 and 2k3 gauge clusters? Plenty of members have posted pics of their cluster for various reasons.
I suspect you have a 2k2 gauge cluster with the aluminum overlay.
03-09-2012, 10:17 AM
#23
Ah yes...thanks Custom.
So it looks like the OP put in a 2k1 Anniversary edition cluster. But...didn't that model year SE version only come with manual tranny?
I suspect anniversary edition because of the white/silver gauge faces. Although, that could be aftermarket as well.
At any rate, the cluster should have been plug and play...weird the O/D not showing.
So it looks like the OP put in a 2k1 Anniversary edition cluster. But...didn't that model year SE version only come with manual tranny?
I suspect anniversary edition because of the white/silver gauge faces. Although, that could be aftermarket as well.
At any rate, the cluster should have been plug and play...weird the O/D not showing.
03-09-2012, 10:26 AM
#25
I am the guy who sold him the cluster her is the information on the cluster
2001 SE 20th Anniversary Edition
Auto tranny
With Traction Control
73,838 miles
Production Date 08/00
2001 SE 20th Anniversary Edition
Auto tranny
With Traction Control
73,838 miles
Production Date 08/00
03-09-2012, 10:28 AM
#26
In an effort to stop some confusion here, because the speculation and guessing is getting silly:
2000-2001 SE gauges have a silver face, EXACTLY as shown in your 'new' gauges.
Anniversary Editions are NO DIFFERENT
From 1999 to early 2001 the gauges could be unscrewed from the back of the circuit board. these gauges have Screw on faces as well. they're easy to spot because they have screws visible
In early 2001 Nissan changed to a glue on gauge face. these have gauges that are soldered to the circuit board, they cannot be removed without de-soldering and that messes up calibration.
I'm talking about MANUFACTURE DATES, NOT the model year.
All SE's for 2000/2001 had the silver faced gauges regardless of the style of gauges/circuits behind.
2000-2001 SE gauges have a silver face, EXACTLY as shown in your 'new' gauges.
Anniversary Editions are NO DIFFERENT
From 1999 to early 2001 the gauges could be unscrewed from the back of the circuit board. these gauges have Screw on faces as well. they're easy to spot because they have screws visible
In early 2001 Nissan changed to a glue on gauge face. these have gauges that are soldered to the circuit board, they cannot be removed without de-soldering and that messes up calibration.
I'm talking about MANUFACTURE DATES, NOT the model year.
All SE's for 2000/2001 had the silver faced gauges regardless of the style of gauges/circuits behind.
03-09-2012, 10:32 AM
#27
Thanks, Shinjidui and TunerMax3000. I'm now leaving to go check the pins and will report back later.
Just to avoid any potential mud-slinging on the possibility of a bad cluster, Shinjidui is offering to exchange it for a uniface if I cannot get this resolved.
Just to avoid any potential mud-slinging on the possibility of a bad cluster, Shinjidui is offering to exchange it for a uniface if I cannot get this resolved.
03-09-2012, 11:24 AM
#29
Update:
No bent pins. I'm going to run to the boneyard to see if I can find a speedo gauge or a more compatible cluster, to see if that solves it. Otherwise, back to square one. Still hoping to get some info on recalibration if I have to reinstall original cluster when I get back...
No bent pins. I'm going to run to the boneyard to see if I can find a speedo gauge or a more compatible cluster, to see if that solves it. Otherwise, back to square one. Still hoping to get some info on recalibration if I have to reinstall original cluster when I get back...
03-09-2012, 11:30 AM
#30
Srry. Your calibration must be done prior to removing needles on the Speedo and Tach.
The fuel gauge and Temp gauge are easy. Fill the tank, then with the key in the ON position, install the needle. It won't be 100% but close.
Same can be done when empty, just be sure the key's on.
The temp gauge do the same way, just install when thec ar's warmed up 100%, and install at half.
The fuel gauge and Temp gauge are easy. Fill the tank, then with the key in the ON position, install the needle. It won't be 100% but close.
Same can be done when empty, just be sure the key's on.
The temp gauge do the same way, just install when thec ar's warmed up 100%, and install at half.
03-09-2012, 01:31 PM
#31
Update: The two types of clusters are definitely not compatible/interchangeable.
Just got back from the boneyard where I found a '00 cluster (with the screw-on gauge faces). Plugged it in as-is and have the same, identical malfunctions. So it's $80 lighter and back to installing the original cluster 'till I get a uni-face.
I guess I'm screwed on the calibration. I'm just going to have to roll with the punches on that one until I figure it out. To the rest of you attempting mods like this - learn from my lesson!
Just got back from the boneyard where I found a '00 cluster (with the screw-on gauge faces). Plugged it in as-is and have the same, identical malfunctions. So it's $80 lighter and back to installing the original cluster 'till I get a uni-face.
I guess I'm screwed on the calibration. I'm just going to have to roll with the punches on that one until I figure it out. To the rest of you attempting mods like this - learn from my lesson!
03-09-2012, 01:52 PM
#32
Update: The two types of clusters are definitely not compatible/interchangeable.
Just got back from the boneyard where I found a '00 cluster (with the screw-on gauge faces). Plugged it in as-is and have the same, identical malfunctions. So it's $80 lighter and back to installing the original cluster 'till I get a uni-face.
I guess I'm screwed on the calibration. I'm just going to have to roll with the punches on that one until I figure it out. To the rest of you attempting mods like this - learn from my lesson!
Just got back from the boneyard where I found a '00 cluster (with the screw-on gauge faces). Plugged it in as-is and have the same, identical malfunctions. So it's $80 lighter and back to installing the original cluster 'till I get a uni-face.
I guess I'm screwed on the calibration. I'm just going to have to roll with the punches on that one until I figure it out. To the rest of you attempting mods like this - learn from my lesson!
I'm actually willing to bet you screwed something up in your car dude. Because those gauges are interchangable. Have you checked your fuses yet? LMAO if your "gauges" fuse is blown.
03-09-2012, 02:42 PM
#33
i couldn't find a "gauges" fuse but I checked all of them and i don't have any blown fuses.
We tried both clusters on my brother's '00 GLE. The SE cluster was the sam issue - no speedo. The boneyard cluster worked fine on his.
I re-tried it on mine with no change.
What my brother is telling me is that there was 1 pin on the odometer chip he did not solder (he did the soldering for me) because there is no trace on the board for it.
That's the only thing I can think of. But it still doesn't explain why the cluster from the junkyard is not working on mine (ABS light, SES light still on, no speedo).
We tried both clusters on my brother's '00 GLE. The SE cluster was the sam issue - no speedo. The boneyard cluster worked fine on his.
I re-tried it on mine with no change.
What my brother is telling me is that there was 1 pin on the odometer chip he did not solder (he did the soldering for me) because there is no trace on the board for it.
That's the only thing I can think of. But it still doesn't explain why the cluster from the junkyard is not working on mine (ABS light, SES light still on, no speedo).
03-09-2012, 03:41 PM
#35
All I can tell you is I've used 3 different gauges in 2 differnet cars that were the differnet style you mentioned. I'm sure Shinjiduo has had the same experience.
I'm not saying you're wrong, far from it, but if you're right that on your car it's not compatible, this is definately the first I've heard of one that isnt.
I'm not saying you're wrong, far from it, but if you're right that on your car it's not compatible, this is definately the first I've heard of one that isnt.
03-09-2012, 04:01 PM
#36
Story of my life - end up with the oddball scenario...
I even tried the cluster from my brother's car and same deal. The SES code was P0500 - speed sensor. Now I'm just glad it works again, lol!
I "re-calibrated" my gauges by setting fuel slightly above full, as it always was with a full tank (yes, I topped it off first!), speed to 0 and rpm and temp were factory pre-marked.
I even tried the cluster from my brother's car and same deal. The SES code was P0500 - speed sensor. Now I'm just glad it works again, lol!
I "re-calibrated" my gauges by setting fuel slightly above full, as it always was with a full tank (yes, I topped it off first!), speed to 0 and rpm and temp were factory pre-marked.
03-09-2012, 06:22 PM
#37
Speedo and tach are NOTgoing to be accurate. You will be within 5 miles probably if you put them on when the key's on though.... maybe.
I still think something else is wrong, but who cares if you have your gauges again.
I still think something else is wrong, but who cares if you have your gauges again.
03-09-2012, 06:42 PM
#38
Conclusion (for the time being):
I set the needles with the engine running. Installed the cluster and left the lens off. I set the speedo needle against the dead-post, rpm needle to factory markings (around 700 rpm). Ran the car on the highway for about 15 minutes, came back and set the temp needle at the factory pre-mark (at about half). While on the road I checked the speedo againt my nav's GPS and it was dead-on (just got lucky, I guess). As I mentioned earlier, word to the wise: DO NOT REMOVE NEEDLES WITHOUT DOING THE PRE-CALIBRATION!
As for my SE gauge upgrade: true to his word, Shinjiduo is sending me a replacement cluster with the uniface with a variety of LED's to set it to my liking, and offered to do my master switches to match (down the road), at a very reasonable price. -pleasure dealing with a stand-up person like this.
Thank you very much to all of you who offered your knowledge and suggestions that helped me get this figured out!
I set the needles with the engine running. Installed the cluster and left the lens off. I set the speedo needle against the dead-post, rpm needle to factory markings (around 700 rpm). Ran the car on the highway for about 15 minutes, came back and set the temp needle at the factory pre-mark (at about half). While on the road I checked the speedo againt my nav's GPS and it was dead-on (just got lucky, I guess). As I mentioned earlier, word to the wise: DO NOT REMOVE NEEDLES WITHOUT DOING THE PRE-CALIBRATION!
As for my SE gauge upgrade: true to his word, Shinjiduo is sending me a replacement cluster with the uniface with a variety of LED's to set it to my liking, and offered to do my master switches to match (down the road), at a very reasonable price. -pleasure dealing with a stand-up person like this.
Thank you very much to all of you who offered your knowledge and suggestions that helped me get this figured out!
03-12-2012, 05:34 PM
#39
I did a little bit of research on this issue, and for those of you who are interested, apparently it is a known incompatibility issue with the late-production 2001's vs. the earlier 5th gen clusters. See, specifically, post# 27 and later posts here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rk-01-gxe.html
As I said, just my luck, lol!
As I said, just my luck, lol!