Evening all, I'm new here so i'll introduce myself. I have a 2000 Maxima SE auto <--- really wish i had bought manual, Tan exterior, Tan leather interior. Bone stock. While i love my car, It just isn't fast enough for my liking. For someone with a limited budget (around 1500 US) what could i do for straight line performance? I am quite happy with how it handles ATM so i think we'll leave the cornering aspect for another day Thanks.

 

Supercharger kit.

 

Thanks for the reply, However i don't recall supercharger kits being around my $1500 Budget

 

First I would do is, maintenance. The best performance is maintenance first before you actually start modding. After you can start by changing the intake and put in a ypipe change your exhaust to free up the flow

 

So intake as in a CAI? Any specific brands you would suggest? Same with the exhaust, Is a full catback the way to go? If it is, once again which model/brand would you suggest? I REALLY don't want a fart can sounding exhaust.

 

Regular maintenance is always a good start. Plugs, air filter, seafoam, fuel filter....

 

Parts: Intake spacers, block off plate, CAI, catback,
maitenence: new plugs, BG44k, fuel system clean will alp add power and won't cost an arm and a leg. Well exhaust does lol 400$ for a decent set IMO

 

Maitenence is #1. Like everybody else is saying, do the basics first. New spark plugs, fuel system cleaner, make sure all of your fluids are good and there are no leaks. Make sure everything is in good mechanical condition. Brakes, suspension components, belts etc. As far as straight line power gains: intake( recommend Berk for your DE-K), y pipe or headers( Wrapspeed y pipe or OBX headers) , and a decent catback exhaust( BMR or Megan Racing). And if your engine mounts are in good condition, I recommend a NWP ETL to put the power to the ground.

 

Hmmm, the dude doesn't have a 3.5 engine, so this is useless. And no one makes a CAI for this car, so that's kind of useless too.

OP, along with Ryan's great suggestions above, here you go:

Y-Pipe ~ around $200-400
2.5-3" Full Catback exhaust, CATTMAN is highly recommended but hard to get as he's pretty much out of business ~ $400-800
Drop in Air filter ~ $35-50, http://www.amazon.com/503-N101-Intak.../dp/B005C45O9Q

Then dedicate the remaining money to maintenance, such as transmission flush and fill with synthetic, oil change, spark plugs, anything else it needs/is due for. Make sure to save at least $400 for unexpected items like suspension components, etc.
I should stress as everyone else said, do the maintenance first, in case it needs something.

Do the coolant bypass mod for your throttle body, some searching will provide you these answers. Also search "0505" and "IACV" to learn why you're doing it

And upgrade your brakes, front brake calipers and rotors off the 2004-2006 Maxima bolt right up and are a huge, HUGE improvement over our crappy rotors. They can be had for under $450 with new pads and rotors normally.

 

Found a Berk SRI for his DE-K.
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm...ow=&range_high=

 

im sure he may have a budget for maintenance, hes just asking whats a good set of go fast mods lol...

To the OP, i also agree with going with a S/C you can often times find a kit for about that... If you are going to stay N/A then id say, just pop the stock airbox off and get a MAF adapter n filter about $30... OBX headers $400, PFTB $80, SAFC- about $150, SRS 3" IIRC $650, Wideband $175...

650
400
030
150
175
080
___
$1485 i believe... probebly only squeeze out probebly around 200-210whp with a decent tune though being auto lol

 

SRI is a waste of time and money on the DE-K. Only benefit is added noise and engine bling, if those are wanted factors.

You actually lose power with that intake though.

 

So what would be the best intake setup for a DE-K? An K&N panel filter? I know a Injen intake is a waste.

 

Not sure how true it is, but I heard the K&N panel filters will gum up the MAF very quickly when it's fresh with oil.

 

Tuner is giving good advice here.

On that 3.0, if you want a small but noticeable HP bump in an affordable way that simply bolts on... get an aftermarket Y-Pipe. After that, a 2.5" catback.

Drop-in filters are a placebo piece of marketing. And an SRI will mostly add noise and make it feel more responsive simply because of the noise. But it's easy, and it's fun. Hook up with knight_yyz for the midpipe and parts... that BERK setup is nice and all, but expensive.

Also, you could get a UDP for a little more response at the throttle from idle.

Lastly, if you haven't already, you could easily blow your budget on maintenance parts, particularly in the front-end. If you haven't yet, then you're due. Um, over-due, actually.

OAN, all-season tires are not a mod. Pilot SS or otherwise. Just saying.

 

Used kits usually are. Even turbo kits if you're lucky.

 

easily the best combo of mods... take it from the guy who did a lot of straight line performance lol... everybody has good insight ill add but all that extra $$$ on name is almost a waste man... if you are spending soley on straight line performance then follow this list and you will be an extremely happy person...

 

this is true

 

Hmm, I remember a day when u would just get told to use the search function and not be spoon fed all these answers... I thought tuner and roc would have called this for sure haha

 

True.

Although most of the "Search, Noob!" hate faded away after SoonerFan moved on. IDK what to say, Brl24... Org responses are fickle.

OAN, you've been here less than a year, but you remember the day, eh?

 

That i won't get into. It's been beaten to death on here.

Quickly, remove the stock baffles in some fashion, and put a new air filter in if the old one is dirty. If you're going for N/A power that's the cheapest/easiest/best option.


Yeah, Ghustles giving good advice too, but headers are not a route you want to go IMO. Youll have problems with AF ratio, emissions (if applicable), and you need to spend more upfront AND in the long run because you need to buy controllers, etc for this. If you cant do the work yourself, install and setup of these components gets expensive fast too.

All in all, on the 3.5, headers are worth it, but on your DE-K, not really. You`d be lucky to see 8 WHP difference between headers vs. Ypipe. Hardly worth the substantial extra cost IMHO, especially if you have emissions tests regularly.

This. I also have a cone filter on my Maxima (DE-K), with a 6`velocity stack to actually help a pinch wiht the loss in performance. BUT I know that it`s only on there for looks and sound, and is actually hurting performance.


I overlooked this (didn`t miss it, overlooked it), but yeah dude, you get flamed for saying stuff like this. That`s like the guy who listed all the stock options like leather and heated seats as `MODS`in his signature...

 

[QUOTE=TunerMaxima3000;8409978]That i won't get into. It's been beaten to death on here.

Quickly, remove the stock baffles in some fashion, and put a new air filter in if the old one is dirty. If you're going for N/A power that's the cheapest/easiest/best option.

Yeah, i was considering it a "mod" because it's a ZR rated tire. Guess not. Anyways, thanks for all the replys guys, looks like i've got some work to do

 

Wouldn't call it the best (b/c everyone has their preference) but you could try this:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...e-results.html

PRCAI hybrid

 

 

I could just agree with Grand Hustle, but here's my 1 cent anyway.

GAB - $0
Y-pipe - $200ish
Poly motor mount inserts - $100 + install cost and time
Lightweight 17" rims and good sticky tires - find whatever you can used, eBay, etc within your budget.

 

Yes. 100x yes.

Best mod ever for the Max, but a difficult mod to achieve for the OP with his automatic transmission.

Good to see you again in the Org, Puppet.

 

hey, i just got a 5th gen too, is warpspeed the only y-pipe aval new?

 

Thanks, nice to be back.

For the ATs, can't you just leave the front motor mount harness plugged in and it won't throw a code? I guess he'd still have to buy an MT mount bracket, but that's not hard to find. For poly inserts, regardless of AT or MT, I'd highly recommend buying two new mounts for cheap on eBay and having a shop press the new inserts in anyway. That way, you can drop the cross member and swap the mounts in their entirety. That also gives you the ability to go back to stock easily. Guess that's more than $100 then, My eBay mounts were only like $60 for a pair complete with OEM inserts though, well worth it.

 

My harness is zip tied, and no problems.

 

Let's just take a moment to appreciate how this generic thread just got both of our AWOL Moderators to post back-2-back.

It's an uncommon event indeed.

OP, you need to go buy a lottery ticket. Just in case.

 

That's where I got mine from.

 

Just cuz I don't post, don't mean I'm AWOL...

PS - see what I did there?

 

The 3.0 backed by the auto isn't a strong straight line car. With your $1,500 budget, you're not going to see much of an improvement unless you spray. Intakes, Y-pipes, tunes, etc are only going to do so much considering the auto. The 0-60 difference between the 5 speed and auto in stock form is around a full second. So, you need to make up that lost second just to make it run even with a 5 speed.

Another considering factor is the actuator for the variable intake power rod inside the upper intake manifold almost always breaks, which kills your power above 5K r.p.m. That should be addressed first.

In all honesty, I'd just use the car as a daily driver, and look for a manual car to mod if you want more speed.

 

Just bought some 649 tickets as suggested my new MaximaForums slogan; "Bringin' back AWOL moderators- 1 thread at a time."

 

Fully built the transmission.

 

No flame and a generous post 2x from the mods, yup, lotto ticket indeed!

Must be the nice weather

 

Yeah. Wishing more than ever i had bought a manual. Oh well, Shoulda' woulda' coulda'. Still undecided if it's worth pursuing more speed in this, or save a bit and look for a manual 03 SE

 

I was in Cabo getting married. But, rest assured, I'll be back in the saddle here shortly.

I agree, a lotto ticket and win is what's needed for the budget to make a 4AT A33 DEK "fast" in a straight line.

3.5" intake(120$) + LRMAF(50-80$) + scaling device (cheapest and easiest = SAFCII)(200$) headers, (300-800$)test pipe(30-50$) and 3" exhaust (350-900$), ETL + PUR bushings + VB mod. (275-700$), lightweight 17's (1200+$).



Do the basics and what make the car most fun, PUR bushings + ETL + VB mod + headers.

Stock intake and cat back exhaust can handle up to 250fwhp (proven in a 3.5L, but the 00-03's have the same stock intake [filter housing & associated piping] and cat back set-up).

Be efficient with what you spend, headers are proven and the drivetrain mods ensure that you're losing the least amount of it on it's way to the ground. The aforementioned should put you in the envelope of `1500$. GAB is also free, so there's an extra push there too.


Next up, lightweight 17" wheels.

 

me personally if it was $1500 on go fast straight line mods thats what i'd do... on the other hand for me n a stock maxima and just $1500 in mods = Coilovers n Headers lol... other $100 in bushings n a filter lol

 

Hmm. Let's change your SN to Shadowmaster.

OMG, I had no idea! That's awesome! You have my heartfelt congratulations, sir.