How to change engine mount and transmission mount?
How to change engine mount and transmission mount?
Hey,
I changed the bottom two mounts (electricals), there were good instructions on those.
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the other two (non electrical) ?
I changed the bottom two mounts (electricals), there were good instructions on those.
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the other two (non electrical) ?
Pretty much same theory. Support engine, remove mounts, line everything back up, bolt it back up.
Transmission mount - remove airbox and battery. You can't miss it.
Transverse - you'll have to remove the wheel to get the bolt facing downwards. A U-joint helps.
Transmission mount - remove airbox and battery. You can't miss it.
Transverse - you'll have to remove the wheel to get the bolt facing downwards. A U-joint helps.
You don't necessarily need to jack it up to support the engine/transmission while the 2 mounts are out - as the other two can bear the weight.
But you will have to jack it up to relieve pressure on the 2 mounts so that you can remove them, and a jack will also help to raise/lower the engine slightly as you line everything back up to reinstall.
But you will have to jack it up to relieve pressure on the 2 mounts so that you can remove them, and a jack will also help to raise/lower the engine slightly as you line everything back up to reinstall.
You can also get to the bottom of the side mount from under the front bumper between the splash guard if you dont feel like jacking up your car and/or taking your wheel off. You need a swivel and and swivel socket and a long extension. I broke a swivel getting it loose but it was a harbor freight special...
No need to remove the wheel, but you can. It can be reached from under the hood(this takes forever) or with stacked extensions from underneath the front of the engine.
Edit: Someone beat me to it. ^^^
Thanks a lot. Would it be a lot easier to change to mounts at once or I can do one by one? Also I checked infinitipartsusa and mounts are pretty expensive. Can you refer me to the cheapest oem mounts?
You can do one by one, except for F/R - it's best to do both at once because the labor is identical whether you do one or both - they're both mounted on the same crossmember.
Also, you do NOT have to replace F/R with electric mounts. You can replace them with non-electric mounts from a Max with manual transmission.
Plenty of aftermarket options - check www.rockauto.com, NAPA, etc.
Also, you do NOT have to replace F/R with electric mounts. You can replace them with non-electric mounts from a Max with manual transmission.
Plenty of aftermarket options - check www.rockauto.com, NAPA, etc.
Thanks. I actually replaced F and R. At first I put regular not wired from ebay, but they were horrible. A lot of vibration. So then I spend bunch of money and put OEM wired mounts and that was a huge difference, well worth the money. Car speeds VEERY QUIET.
So I am planning on getting OEM mounts for left and right. So if you will find place better than infinitipartsusa, please let me know
Thanks
So I am planning on getting OEM mounts for left and right. So if you will find place better than infinitipartsusa, please let me know
Thanks
Interesting.
You can try www.nissanpartsasap.com - they have pretty competitive prices. Their shipping calculator is a bit on the high side - I tend to call to confirm the order (if I go with them)
You can also try Rusty @ Gunn Nissan. Here's the info:
http://forums.maxima.org/dealership-...ntonio-tx.html
You can try www.nissanpartsasap.com - they have pretty competitive prices. Their shipping calculator is a bit on the high side - I tend to call to confirm the order (if I go with them)
You can also try Rusty @ Gunn Nissan. Here's the info:
http://forums.maxima.org/dealership-...ntonio-tx.html
For transmission mount access, will I also have to remove the metal plate hat the battery sits on?
I changed the transmission mount 2 weeks ago and I didn't have to touch the battery at all, let alone the metal plate, except for disconnecting the positive terminal, as a precaution. You should go ahead and remove them if you feel more comfortable having the extra room to maneuver the main connecting bolt. I tackled that bolt from under that plate, using a ratchet with an extension bar.
Ok, true not a big deal. Just wanted to know how labor Intensive it will be. Ive already changed the side mount with no problem. F/R were changed 40, 000 miles ago. So im gonna do the trans mount today. How about the duralast ones sold at autozone? Its the only place I can get one from today.
I changed the transmission mount 2 weeks ago and I didn't have to touch the battery at all, let alone the metal plate, except for disconnecting the positive terminal, as a precaution. You should go ahead and remove them if you feel more comfortable having the extra room to maneuver the main connecting bolt. I tackled that bolt from under that plate, using a ratchet with an extension bar.
NICE! I have all the tools i need to tackle the job, (thankis to harbor freight being <10 mins away, lol!) So i didnt want to make the job longer than necessary. i think i will start with this method and go from there. thanks to both you and djfrestyl for a speedy reply on this early Sunday morning. You guys are lifesavers! Going outside to try my luck.
Good work, it's crazy everyone says don't get the oem wired motor mounts , get the manual, but the manual ones have a vibration
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
Good work, it's crazy everyone says don't get the oem wired motor mounts , get the manual, but the manual ones have a vibration
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride


I replaced my electronic mount to regular mount (OEM) on my GLE with no vibration problems.
ES or Red Lion insert bushings are also a great, low cost replacement.
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