How to change engine mount and transmission mount?
#1
How to change engine mount and transmission mount?
Hey,
I changed the bottom two mounts (electricals), there were good instructions on those.
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the other two (non electrical) ?
I changed the bottom two mounts (electricals), there were good instructions on those.
Does anyone have instructions on how to change the other two (non electrical) ?
#2
Pretty much same theory. Support engine, remove mounts, line everything back up, bolt it back up.
Transmission mount - remove airbox and battery. You can't miss it.
Transverse - you'll have to remove the wheel to get the bolt facing downwards. A U-joint helps.
Transmission mount - remove airbox and battery. You can't miss it.
Transverse - you'll have to remove the wheel to get the bolt facing downwards. A U-joint helps.
#5
You don't necessarily need to jack it up to support the engine/transmission while the 2 mounts are out - as the other two can bear the weight.
But you will have to jack it up to relieve pressure on the 2 mounts so that you can remove them, and a jack will also help to raise/lower the engine slightly as you line everything back up to reinstall.
But you will have to jack it up to relieve pressure on the 2 mounts so that you can remove them, and a jack will also help to raise/lower the engine slightly as you line everything back up to reinstall.
#6
You can also get to the bottom of the side mount from under the front bumper between the splash guard if you dont feel like jacking up your car and/or taking your wheel off. You need a swivel and and swivel socket and a long extension. I broke a swivel getting it loose but it was a harbor freight special...
#7
No need to remove the wheel, but you can. It can be reached from under the hood(this takes forever) or with stacked extensions from underneath the front of the engine.
Edit: Someone beat me to it. ^^^
#9
Thanks a lot. Would it be a lot easier to change to mounts at once or I can do one by one? Also I checked infinitipartsusa and mounts are pretty expensive. Can you refer me to the cheapest oem mounts?
#10
You can do one by one, except for F/R - it's best to do both at once because the labor is identical whether you do one or both - they're both mounted on the same crossmember.
Also, you do NOT have to replace F/R with electric mounts. You can replace them with non-electric mounts from a Max with manual transmission.
Plenty of aftermarket options - check www.rockauto.com, NAPA, etc.
Also, you do NOT have to replace F/R with electric mounts. You can replace them with non-electric mounts from a Max with manual transmission.
Plenty of aftermarket options - check www.rockauto.com, NAPA, etc.
#11
Thanks. I actually replaced F and R. At first I put regular not wired from ebay, but they were horrible. A lot of vibration. So then I spend bunch of money and put OEM wired mounts and that was a huge difference, well worth the money. Car speeds VEERY QUIET.
So I am planning on getting OEM mounts for left and right. So if you will find place better than infinitipartsusa, please let me know
Thanks
So I am planning on getting OEM mounts for left and right. So if you will find place better than infinitipartsusa, please let me know
Thanks
#12
Interesting.
You can try www.nissanpartsasap.com - they have pretty competitive prices. Their shipping calculator is a bit on the high side - I tend to call to confirm the order (if I go with them)
You can also try Rusty @ Gunn Nissan. Here's the info:
http://forums.maxima.org/dealership-...ntonio-tx.html
You can try www.nissanpartsasap.com - they have pretty competitive prices. Their shipping calculator is a bit on the high side - I tend to call to confirm the order (if I go with them)
You can also try Rusty @ Gunn Nissan. Here's the info:
http://forums.maxima.org/dealership-...ntonio-tx.html
#13
For transmission mount access, will I also have to remove the metal plate hat the battery sits on?
#15
I changed the transmission mount 2 weeks ago and I didn't have to touch the battery at all, let alone the metal plate, except for disconnecting the positive terminal, as a precaution. You should go ahead and remove them if you feel more comfortable having the extra room to maneuver the main connecting bolt. I tackled that bolt from under that plate, using a ratchet with an extension bar.
#16
Ok, true not a big deal. Just wanted to know how labor Intensive it will be. Ive already changed the side mount with no problem. F/R were changed 40, 000 miles ago. So im gonna do the trans mount today. How about the duralast ones sold at autozone? Its the only place I can get one from today.
#17
I changed the transmission mount 2 weeks ago and I didn't have to touch the battery at all, let alone the metal plate, except for disconnecting the positive terminal, as a precaution. You should go ahead and remove them if you feel more comfortable having the extra room to maneuver the main connecting bolt. I tackled that bolt from under that plate, using a ratchet with an extension bar.
#18
NICE! I have all the tools i need to tackle the job, (thankis to harbor freight being <10 mins away, lol!) So i didnt want to make the job longer than necessary. i think i will start with this method and go from there. thanks to both you and djfrestyl for a speedy reply on this early Sunday morning. You guys are lifesavers! Going outside to try my luck.
#19
Good work, it's crazy everyone says don't get the oem wired motor mounts , get the manual, but the manual ones have a vibration
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
#21
Good work, it's crazy everyone says don't get the oem wired motor mounts , get the manual, but the manual ones have a vibration
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
I changed the front motor mount to the oem wired one because thats what came up when I looked for a replacement , then I was told manual mount is fine and I'll save money, So I ordered a manual rear mount installed and car vibrates like crazy, now i got to do this again in the rear for a smoother ride
I replaced my electronic mount to regular mount (OEM) on my GLE with no vibration problems.
ES or Red Lion insert bushings are also a great, low cost replacement.
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