Completely frustrated with my 01 SE
03-28-2012, 10:19 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
Completely frustrated with my 01 SE
I had my car for a year and a half and i bought it with 187000 and today it hit 218000. i knew my shocks and struts were done but i was waiting if i should fix it because my rear beam is bent and kills my tires. i just recently dropped 300 dollars in accessoires. and made my car look like this
too
and a whole lot more but as soon as i ordered the parts. my exhaust started to shake like it was loose. then my car started to rock back and forth(misfire) and my cat started to smell. so i went to nissan today and
and even more they couldn't fit on the paper. i'm at lost at what to do if i should fix my car.
i've been looking for another maxima between 96(ob2 whatever) 5 speed and up. or i should give up on nissan and save and get an acura tsx(2004-2008) 6 speed. or a honda accord(2003-2007) 5 speed.
the only thing i know how to do is brakes. i would love to fix my car of course i wouldn't go to the dealer for those but it's a lot o fstuff and i'm fed up with my car. what would you do if you were me???
too
and a whole lot more but as soon as i ordered the parts. my exhaust started to shake like it was loose. then my car started to rock back and forth(misfire) and my cat started to smell. so i went to nissan today and
and even more they couldn't fit on the paper. i'm at lost at what to do if i should fix my car.
i've been looking for another maxima between 96(ob2 whatever) 5 speed and up. or i should give up on nissan and save and get an acura tsx(2004-2008) 6 speed. or a honda accord(2003-2007) 5 speed.
the only thing i know how to do is brakes. i would love to fix my car of course i wouldn't go to the dealer for those but it's a lot o fstuff and i'm fed up with my car. what would you do if you were me???
03-28-2012, 10:45 PM
#2
First: Take off those god awful HIDs.
Second: Buy yourself an OBDII reader and pull the codes from the car. We'd have a much better chance of helping you because with the info you've given us it could be almost anything.
Third: It looks like your suspension needs some work, thats just normal wear and tear for an old car. The ABS sensors wil probably also need to be replaced.
Second: Buy yourself an OBDII reader and pull the codes from the car. We'd have a much better chance of helping you because with the info you've given us it could be almost anything.
Third: It looks like your suspension needs some work, thats just normal wear and tear for an old car. The ABS sensors wil probably also need to be replaced.
03-29-2012, 05:18 AM
#3
Stop wasting money on accessories on a car that you know needs repair. Your problem isn't Nissan. With the mentality of your post, the Honda/Acura will end up letting you down also. Cars require money. Either all up front with a warranty, over the course of ownership for repairs/maintenance, or a combination. If you have the money to purchase a 2004-08 TSX, you definitely have the money to repair the car you are currently neglecting.
Seems to me you have two choices,
Instant gratification: Throw a fit about a car with over 200k miles on the odometer that has issues. Short sell it to get a down payment on another used car that will need care. Add some new car scent and cruise down the road never looking back.
OR
Responsible Rationalism: Tally up the total care your car needs to be safe and reliable. Compare that to the gobs of money you're about to throw at that TSX/Accord or a used 4th gen that will most likely require even more repair. Then, it's up to you which side of the fence to be on.
With that in mind, I think your car looks pretty nice. I would take the immediate hit to repair the major issues. Drive it while you're saving for the next car will be the best option.
Seems to me you have two choices,
Instant gratification: Throw a fit about a car with over 200k miles on the odometer that has issues. Short sell it to get a down payment on another used car that will need care. Add some new car scent and cruise down the road never looking back.
OR
Responsible Rationalism: Tally up the total care your car needs to be safe and reliable. Compare that to the gobs of money you're about to throw at that TSX/Accord or a used 4th gen that will most likely require even more repair. Then, it's up to you which side of the fence to be on.
With that in mind, I think your car looks pretty nice. I would take the immediate hit to repair the major issues. Drive it while you're saving for the next car will be the best option.
03-29-2012, 05:48 AM
#4
i 100% agree on letting go of mods and fixing issues..that's what i did w/ my beater before i started doing mods to it. took care of necessities before i started dumping money into aftermarket bull****. and of course you're still going to have issues, but take care of what needs to be taken care of now. with 200+k miles, you're lucky to find one that's been maintained, as mine was before i sold it 2/ 221k miles..car still ran great and had only 2 issues SES light for o2 sensor and a hole in the flex pipe. but that's not to include all the money i dumped into it to maintain it while i owned it
SN: if you like HIDs keep em...its a owners discretion
SN: if you like HIDs keep em...its a owners discretion
03-29-2012, 05:57 AM
#5
I am in with the HID deal... take those out before you kill someone...
Why would you spend money on "upgrades" when your car needs parts to make it run the way its supposed to? You spend $300 in upgrades??? Well for that much you could have bought a full front end suspension kit including control arms, tie rods, sway bar links and so on... the ABS sensors are pretty cheap and considering you can "do upgrades" you can replace those within 15 min each, there is only one little bolt that holds them in place...
As far as the ignition coils, every single member here has had that problem... I personally called DaveB when he was working for a Nissan dealer, ordered 6 new gray dot coils and replaced them myself... it takes about 30-45min if you are replacing the plugs also, which you should any how...
Your struts are pretty easy to replace also... I spend a total of about $150 for 4 struts, boots and strut mounts... Basically everything you have described on that bill could be done for less that $1000 in parts...
Getting another car Honda/Acura will not fix your problems, just like someone else said your problem is with the fact that you are dealing with and older car... not the manufacturer... what you think hondas don't brake and last forever???
Why would you spend money on "upgrades" when your car needs parts to make it run the way its supposed to? You spend $300 in upgrades??? Well for that much you could have bought a full front end suspension kit including control arms, tie rods, sway bar links and so on... the ABS sensors are pretty cheap and considering you can "do upgrades" you can replace those within 15 min each, there is only one little bolt that holds them in place...
As far as the ignition coils, every single member here has had that problem... I personally called DaveB when he was working for a Nissan dealer, ordered 6 new gray dot coils and replaced them myself... it takes about 30-45min if you are replacing the plugs also, which you should any how...
Your struts are pretty easy to replace also... I spend a total of about $150 for 4 struts, boots and strut mounts... Basically everything you have described on that bill could be done for less that $1000 in parts...
Getting another car Honda/Acura will not fix your problems, just like someone else said your problem is with the fact that you are dealing with and older car... not the manufacturer... what you think hondas don't brake and last forever???
03-29-2012, 06:36 AM
#7
plus I like the fact that you don't see that many Maximas on the road, at least where I am from... Hondas there is at least 2 on every traffic light
03-29-2012, 06:48 AM
#8
i cant tell you how many white maximas alone are in my town, plus all the maximas my body style, on top of ALLLLLLLLL the maximas in town...yea..more maximas than hondas. but i'd take honda reliability over nissan. i trust honda way more, and all the parts arent out the *** expensive
03-29-2012, 07:43 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
Sell me the car....but put stock stuff back.Seriously though, that stuff is what you should expect given your mileage. Those prices are clearly to high but you know that.
Last edited by 2damax; 03-29-2012 at 07:47 AM.
03-29-2012, 07:46 AM
#11
I hope you have an honest independent shop near you....otherwise, you need to find one. Not just for this car, but for your future cars as all cars will have problems.
All the suspension items are normal and likely the engine codes are normal wear as well. Since you only have the knowledge for brakes take it to an independent shop and have them scan the codes. Write down the codes and post them up on here so we can help. We know more than an independent shop would.
In the meantime you can have the shop work on the suspension items. With new LCA's, tie rods, shocks it will ride and handle MUCH better. I would also suggest doing the end links and sway bar bushings while they are at it.
Bent rear beam? Are you sure? Those beams tend to shift over time towards one side of the car. Mine has shift about a half inch, but it really hasn't affected my drive ability and tire wear.
All the suspension items are normal and likely the engine codes are normal wear as well. Since you only have the knowledge for brakes take it to an independent shop and have them scan the codes. Write down the codes and post them up on here so we can help. We know more than an independent shop would.
In the meantime you can have the shop work on the suspension items. With new LCA's, tie rods, shocks it will ride and handle MUCH better. I would also suggest doing the end links and sway bar bushings while they are at it.
Bent rear beam? Are you sure? Those beams tend to shift over time towards one side of the car. Mine has shift about a half inch, but it really hasn't affected my drive ability and tire wear.
03-29-2012, 04:23 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
i'm answering all your post now. i was at work.
I didn't waste my money on accessories. i was comtemplating if i should get another car. but then i decided i will keep my car. i knew i needed shocks and struts but i never really cared to much about it. my father had a 1994 camry with bad shocks and struts with 274,000 before the timing belt blow and it ran fine so i left that. but my car ran perfectly fine. so i ordered my headlights, hids and many others in one night because i had a 300 dollar credit card. the day after it was order i drove my car to a job interview and thats when the problems started to happen. (the exhaust leak, the and many others. ) i just recently had required some money and took it to nissan yesterday and i found out all these problems.
i'm not throwing a fit i know my car is up in milage. i'm just pissed at the fact that after i bought all these things i started to have problems.
thanks i never had HIDs because so i ordered 8ks. to have a blue tint but still bright. i love them and they look great so i'm keeping them.
i explained why i spent money on accessories instead of parts in my post above. and show me where you got them. if you are talking about the ones on ebay. how long have you had them and how are they running.
i bought it with 187000 for 900 dollars and it ran fine except the tires and starter.
see i drove in an 03 accord when it was new.(yess i know a car with 10,000 miles vs 218,000 drives different) and it was the best car i have ever drove in my life. it was silent smooth and just overall good looking. also i drove my friends 92 accord from bronx NY to east haven CT which is about 75 miles and the gas needle didn't move (also have a 17 gallon tank). ever since then i had a passion for accords but i can agree they are slow but mostly i stood any from them because they are highly stolen. other wise i would buy a 1990-up accord manuel. or an integra but again highly stolen.
nissan is very expensive i agree...
lol
yes i know those prices are high. it was all the problems that nissan listed....
that sounds like advice i need!!! lol.
but my left rear tire is slightly etched. and when idid an alignment when i first got the car i have -2 camber i believe and all the tires i put in the that side wears unevenly on the inside.
yes but i want a sedan and the 06-07 sedan v6 6 speed are very rare. a tl 04-08 would be a nice option but isn't a smart option for my pocket right now.
Stop wasting money on accessories on a car that you know needs repair. Your problem isn't Nissan. With the mentality of your post, the Honda/Acura will end up letting you down also. Cars require money. Either all up front with a warranty, over the course of ownership for repairs/maintenance, or a combination. If you have the money to purchase a 2004-08 TSX, you definitely have the money to repair the car you are currently neglecting.
Seems to me you have two choices,
Instant gratification: Throw a fit about a car with over 200k miles on the odometer that has issues. Short sell it to get a down payment on another used car that will need care. Add some new car scent and cruise down the road never looking back.
OR
Responsible Rationalism: Tally up the total care your car needs to be safe and reliable. Compare that to the gobs of money you're about to throw at that TSX/Accord or a used 4th gen that will most likely require even more repair. Then, it's up to you which side of the fence to be on.
With that in mind, I think your car looks pretty nice. I would take the immediate hit to repair the major issues. Drive it while you're saving for the next car will be the best option.
Seems to me you have two choices,
Instant gratification: Throw a fit about a car with over 200k miles on the odometer that has issues. Short sell it to get a down payment on another used car that will need care. Add some new car scent and cruise down the road never looking back.
OR
Responsible Rationalism: Tally up the total care your car needs to be safe and reliable. Compare that to the gobs of money you're about to throw at that TSX/Accord or a used 4th gen that will most likely require even more repair. Then, it's up to you which side of the fence to be on.
With that in mind, I think your car looks pretty nice. I would take the immediate hit to repair the major issues. Drive it while you're saving for the next car will be the best option.
i'm not throwing a fit i know my car is up in milage. i'm just pissed at the fact that after i bought all these things i started to have problems.
i 100% agree on letting go of mods and fixing issues..that's what i did w/ my beater before i started doing mods to it. took care of necessities before i started dumping money into aftermarket bull****. and of course you're still going to have issues, but take care of what needs to be taken care of now. with 200+k miles, you're lucky to find one that's been maintained, as mine was before i sold it 2/ 221k miles..car still ran great and had only 2 issues SES light for o2 sensor and a hole in the flex pipe. but that's not to include all the money i dumped into it to maintain it while i owned it
SN: if you like HIDs keep em...its a owners discretion
SN: if you like HIDs keep em...its a owners discretion
I am in with the HID deal... take those out before you kill someone...
Why would you spend money on "upgrades" when your car needs parts to make it run the way its supposed to? You spend $300 in upgrades??? Well for that much you could have bought a full front end suspension kit including control arms, tie rods, sway bar links and so on... the ABS sensors are pretty cheap and considering you can "do upgrades" you can replace those within 15 min each, there is only one little bolt that holds them in place...
As far as the ignition coils, every single member here has had that problem... I personally called DaveB when he was working for a Nissan dealer, ordered 6 new gray dot coils and replaced them myself... it takes about 30-45min if you are replacing the plugs also, which you should any how...
Your struts are pretty easy to replace also... I spend a total of about $150 for 4 struts, boots and strut mounts... Basically everything you have described on that bill could be done for less that $1000 in parts...
Getting another car Honda/Acura will not fix your problems, just like someone else said your problem is with the fact that you are dealing with and older car... not the manufacturer... what you think Honda don't brake and last forever???
Why would you spend money on "upgrades" when your car needs parts to make it run the way its supposed to? You spend $300 in upgrades??? Well for that much you could have bought a full front end suspension kit including control arms, tie rods, sway bar links and so on... the ABS sensors are pretty cheap and considering you can "do upgrades" you can replace those within 15 min each, there is only one little bolt that holds them in place...
As far as the ignition coils, every single member here has had that problem... I personally called DaveB when he was working for a Nissan dealer, ordered 6 new gray dot coils and replaced them myself... it takes about 30-45min if you are replacing the plugs also, which you should any how...
Your struts are pretty easy to replace also... I spend a total of about $150 for 4 struts, boots and strut mounts... Basically everything you have described on that bill could be done for less that $1000 in parts...
Getting another car Honda/Acura will not fix your problems, just like someone else said your problem is with the fact that you are dealing with and older car... not the manufacturer... what you think Honda don't brake and last forever???
not sure I understand??? I had an accord before I got my maxima... never again I will swap my A33 for any Accord... At least the Maxima was made in Japan... not 30 min from where I live... not that it makes a difference but plus I like the fact that you don't see that many Maximas on the road, at least where I am from... Hondas there is at least 2 on every traffic light
plus I like the fact that you don't see that many Maximas on the road, at least where I am from... Hondas there is at least 2 on every traffic lighti cant tell you how many white maximas alone are in my town, plus all the maximas my body style, on top of ALLLLLLLLL the maximas in town...yea..more maximas than hondas. but i'd take honda reliability over nissan. i trust honda way more, and all the parts arent out the *** expensive
lol
I hope you have an honest independent shop near you....otherwise, you need to find one. Not just for this car, but for your future cars as all cars will have problems.
All the suspension items are normal and likely the engine codes are normal wear as well. Since you only have the knowledge for brakes take it to an independent shop and have them scan the codes. Write down the codes and post them up on here so we can help. We know more than an independent shop would.
In the meantime you can have the shop work on the suspension items. With new LCA's, tie rods, shocks it will ride and handle MUCH better. I would also suggest doing the end links and sway bar bushings while they are at it.
Bent rear beam? Are you sure? Those beams tend to shift over time towards one side of the car. Mine has shift about a half inch, but it really hasn't affected my drive ability and tire wear.
All the suspension items are normal and likely the engine codes are normal wear as well. Since you only have the knowledge for brakes take it to an independent shop and have them scan the codes. Write down the codes and post them up on here so we can help. We know more than an independent shop would.
In the meantime you can have the shop work on the suspension items. With new LCA's, tie rods, shocks it will ride and handle MUCH better. I would also suggest doing the end links and sway bar bushings while they are at it.
Bent rear beam? Are you sure? Those beams tend to shift over time towards one side of the car. Mine has shift about a half inch, but it really hasn't affected my drive ability and tire wear.
but my left rear tire is slightly etched. and when idid an alignment when i first got the car i have -2 camber i believe and all the tires i put in the that side wears unevenly on the inside.
yes but i want a sedan and the 06-07 sedan v6 6 speed are very rare. a tl 04-08 would be a nice option but isn't a smart option for my pocket right now.
03-29-2012, 05:29 PM
#14
Without a projector or a properly designed reflector, the light output from an HID setup is not controlled well. Period. Have you ever experienced an oncoming driver who seemingly appears oblivious to the fact he is driving around with his intense blue/pink brights on? I say blue/pink brights because those are typically the color 8000k/10000k HID bulbs give off, and stereotypically, the same people who do not know how to properly use HID setups.
For one, HID setups either need to be installed with the proper reflector bowl, or a projector. It is not SAFE FOR OTHER DRIVERS. I don't care how "cool" they are, the light is blinding for oncoming drivers.
Secondly, anything bulb temp above 6000k starts to lose actual light output. Higher temp number does not = more light. The sweet spot is roughly 4300k for the best output. Factory OEM setups usually come with 4300k bulbs, along with the proper optics to harness the light. 5000k typically is omits a whiter light, but output is reduced in cheaper bulbs (unless you get Osram CBI 5000k bulbs which is an exception).
Anything over, your output decreases.
I suggest you check out hidplanet.com and theretrofitsource.com for proper information on HID setups.
Last edited by tcaughey; 03-29-2012 at 05:36 PM.
03-29-2012, 05:48 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
Nope I haven't been in an car with proper HID setup... I already spent my money. Which is hard to come buy. Sorry my lights all the way in CT is so bright that in Iowa is offending you. If I had questions about my HIDs I would of posted that.
03-29-2012, 05:50 PM
#16
OP decided to max out a 300 dollar credit card on mods before taking care of regular wear and tear items? smfh
exhaust leaks don't "just happen overnight"...
That's why you spend money on getting the car running right first, before "cool" things like pretty blue (and likely illegal) lights.
I didn't waste my money on accessories. i was comtemplating if i should get another car. but then i decided i will keep my car. i knew i needed shocks and struts but i never really cared to much about it. my father had a 1994 camry with bad shocks and struts with 274,000 before the timing belt blow and it ran fine so i left that. but my car ran perfectly fine. so i ordered my headlights, hids and many others in one night because i had a 300 dollar credit card. the day after it was order i drove my car to a job interview and thats when the problems started to happen. (the exhaust leak, the and many others. ) i just recently had required some money and took it to nissan yesterday and i found out all these problems.
i'm not throwing a fit i know my car is up in milage. i'm just pissed at the fact that after i bought all these things i started to have problems.
03-29-2012, 06:05 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
why is everyone on here think i'm irresponsible and just want my car to look cool. I do not know how to repeat myself in my defense...
i know i needed shocks and struts. but again I said why i never really cared to much about that.
my exhaust leak is not huge and annoying i just now i have one because I listen to everything that is going on and my wife also has the same car but GLE with 135,000 miles. Nissan told me that me exhaust is hanging. I just found out this info.
honestly look down at me or syfh all you want. It is my car and i decide what I want to do with it at the end of the day. I owned my car for over a year and a half deciding on if i should little mods to my car yes or no. I have maintained my car. I did a transmission flush at 196,600 at nissan.... The night i choose to mod. All this happened. And all and all if something where to happen to my car all of my parts which can be transfered will go to my wifes car.......
Soooooooooooo Back to my question would you fix this car if you owned it with you coldn't do the repairs yourself or would you save and buy another car???
i know i needed shocks and struts. but again I said why i never really cared to much about that.
my exhaust leak is not huge and annoying i just now i have one because I listen to everything that is going on and my wife also has the same car but GLE with 135,000 miles. Nissan told me that me exhaust is hanging. I just found out this info.
honestly look down at me or syfh all you want. It is my car and i decide what I want to do with it at the end of the day. I owned my car for over a year and a half deciding on if i should little mods to my car yes or no. I have maintained my car. I did a transmission flush at 196,600 at nissan.... The night i choose to mod. All this happened. And all and all if something where to happen to my car all of my parts which can be transfered will go to my wifes car.......
Soooooooooooo Back to my question would you fix this car if you owned it with you coldn't do the repairs yourself or would you save and buy another car???
03-29-2012, 06:10 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
thank you. :-)
where do you think i should start. i saw this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-MAXIM...sories&vxp=mtr
most of my suspension that nissan listed is included in this but i dont know the quality of it....
i also need brakes in which i can do... i was planning on getting this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-K...sories&vxp=mtr
I have much more parts and ideas but then it will get confusing if i were to post all at once. what do you think about these....
where do you think i should start. i saw this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-MAXIM...sories&vxp=mtr
most of my suspension that nissan listed is included in this but i dont know the quality of it....
i also need brakes in which i can do... i was planning on getting this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-K...sories&vxp=mtr
I have much more parts and ideas but then it will get confusing if i were to post all at once. what do you think about these....
03-29-2012, 06:14 PM
#20
energy suspension bushings. Get them.
The control arms...I don't know about them, I'd look at more reviews and maybe go from courtesy nissan or rockauto...?
I don't know about the quality of those brakes, but the price is sure as hell good.
The control arms...I don't know about them, I'd look at more reviews and maybe go from courtesy nissan or rockauto...?
I don't know about the quality of those brakes, but the price is sure as hell good.
03-29-2012, 06:23 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
i know. lol. i love ebay prices but quality is different story.
is there anything when theses are parts are being removed i should change like wheel bearings????
i know if it at broke dont fix it but if something is being pulled apart and it's right there why not change it if it makes sense....(ex. changing rotors and leaving the same brake pads when you have to remove them anyway....)
for shocks and struts i was thinking this because of the price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1380-00-01-Nissan-Infiniti-SHOCKS-STRUTS-Full-Set-4Pcs-NEW-Warranty-/320876869984?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item4ab5c07960&item=320876869984&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
or this because i have seen many people talk about it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-NEW-SHOCKS-STRUTS-NISSAN-MAXIMA-2000-2001-/110754532701?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item19c97c0d5d&item=110754532701&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
and the famous
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-NEW-SHOCKS-STRUTS-NISSAN-MAXIMA-2000-2001-/110754532701?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item19c97c0d5d&item=110754532701&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
but i'm not feeling the price.
i just this to work out for the best....
is there anything when theses are parts are being removed i should change like wheel bearings????
i know if it at broke dont fix it but if something is being pulled apart and it's right there why not change it if it makes sense....(ex. changing rotors and leaving the same brake pads when you have to remove them anyway....)
for shocks and struts i was thinking this because of the price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1380-00-01-Nissan-Infiniti-SHOCKS-STRUTS-Full-Set-4Pcs-NEW-Warranty-/320876869984?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item4ab5c07960&item=320876869984&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
or this because i have seen many people talk about it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-NEW-SHOCKS-STRUTS-NISSAN-MAXIMA-2000-2001-/110754532701?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item19c97c0d5d&item=110754532701&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
and the famous
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-NEW-SHOCKS-STRUTS-NISSAN-MAXIMA-2000-2001-/110754532701?fits=Year:2001|Make:Nissan|Model:Maxi ma&hash=item19c97c0d5d&item=110754532701&pt=Motors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
but i'm not feeling the price.
i just this to work out for the best....
03-29-2012, 06:30 PM
#22
Sensen seems to actually not be all that bad (@ least in the 4th gen application)...Never heard of Stagg. Might want to get new springs as well, since you're getting new struts...change out the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
btw your last 2 ebay links were the same thing...Stagg shocks / struts
btw your last 2 ebay links were the same thing...Stagg shocks / struts
03-29-2012, 06:43 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
sorry i ment this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOKICO-BLUE-...sories&vxp=mtr
i just looked at springs and they are expensive. do i need springs. they are alot.
i was looking at exhaust and honestly i have an automatic so i'm going to stay stock. my exhaust leak is in the back. but my pre cat is bad. should i just change that pre cat and be the end of it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOKICO-BLUE-...sories&vxp=mtr
i just looked at springs and they are expensive. do i need springs. they are alot.
i was looking at exhaust and honestly i have an automatic so i'm going to stay stock. my exhaust leak is in the back. but my pre cat is bad. should i just change that pre cat and be the end of it...
03-29-2012, 06:54 PM
#24
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 03-29-2012 at 07:14 PM.
03-29-2012, 06:59 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
Sure, only change is broken. Pre cat is a little pricey though. You got a lot of spending ahead of you lol. Hope this car lasts long enough to make it worth it. Do the engine first. Start with whatever coils and do the plugs. Change the rear VC if you are leaking oil. Then I think the LCA, tie rods, shocks and springs (if you do them) should be one job. Third job should be the exhaust. Then the ABS sensor....IMO you are easily looking to spend over $1,000.
edit: Am I reading right? Did you say you had zero problems and then got these accessories and then this all happened? I mean a misfire, bad pre cat smell and an exhaust leak and bad front end suspension (that you knew about) should have been first on your list. However, that was not your question. First half of my post is what you want.
edit: Am I reading right? Did you say you had zero problems and then got these accessories and then this all happened? I mean a misfire, bad pre cat smell and an exhaust leak and bad front end suspension (that you knew about) should have been first on your list. However, that was not your question. First half of my post is what you want.
Last edited by 2damax; 03-29-2012 at 07:04 PM.
03-29-2012, 07:42 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
I stopped reading at this. OP, you're a young cat, clearly, I dunno what everyone else has said here, but just chill, step back, and re-evaluate. Get more info from dealer on specific items they're calling failed (coils, etc), and do the work yourself, it's simple. Or get an independant mechanic to do it. You can get the coils for like $60 or something methinks.
Sure, only change is broken. Pre cat is a little pricey though. You got a lot of spending ahead of you lol. Hope this car lasts long enough to make it worth it. Do the engine first. Start with whatever coils and do the plugs. Change the rear VC if you are leaking oil. Then I think the LCA, tie rods, shocks and springs (if you do them) should be one job. Third job should be the exhaust. Then the ABS sensor....IMO you are easily looking to spend over $1,000.
edit: Am I reading right? Did you say you had zero problems and then got these accessories and then this all happened? I mean a misfire, bad pre cat smell and an exhaust leak and bad front end suspension (that you knew about) should have been first on your list. However, that was not your question. First half of my post is what you want.
edit: Am I reading right? Did you say you had zero problems and then got these accessories and then this all happened? I mean a misfire, bad pre cat smell and an exhaust leak and bad front end suspension (that you knew about) should have been first on your list. However, that was not your question. First half of my post is what you want.
03-30-2012, 06:56 AM
#28
[quote=dondadah88;8418369]
see i drove in an 03 accord when it was new.(yess i know a car with 10,000 miles vs 218,000 drives different) and it was the best car i have ever drove in my life. it was silent smooth and just overall good looking. also i drove my friends 92 accord from bronx NY to east haven CT which is about 75 miles and the gas needle didn't move (also have a 17 gallon tank). ever since then i had a passion for accords but i can agree they are slow but mostly i stood any from them because they are highly stolen. other wise i would buy a 1990-up accord manuel. or an integra but again highly stolen. [quote=dondadah88;8418369]
I had a 91 CB7 for 2 years and put over 60K on it... no comparison to the maxima what so ever... IDK about the manuals but the autos will get about 30mpg on the highway and thats it everyone who said that their cb7 auto get 35-40mpg on the highway is full of s***... I even met with a local cb7 forum people here from Columbus and they all agreed upon that... the CB7 also had its fare share of problems, Hondas are not perfect cars... there is no such thing as a perfect car... Some are better some are worst but after getting my maxima there is no way I will ever get back to an early year accords...
Here is the site where I purchased my struts and all the other parts associated with it... I used the "Replacement" brand struts so far close to 20,000 miles and no problems what so ever... I remember about year and half ago those front struts were $35 per unit and the rears were about $50 for both... I guess prices did go up...
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/index.php?N=0&Ntt=strut&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&Ns =price2|0&No=0&Npp=15&VN=4294960609+4294960608+429 4967165+4294967130+4294967092&sv=0
Also you can search for parts on amazon or other sites... I just replaced the struts on my Audi A6 as well I went with the Monroe Sensa tracks this time b/c they are running a MIR and I just got got back $100 so I spend a total of about $140 for all 4 struts...
Do a research and you will find that most parts are pretty cheap and installation requires no "rocket science" skills
see i drove in an 03 accord when it was new.(yess i know a car with 10,000 miles vs 218,000 drives different) and it was the best car i have ever drove in my life. it was silent smooth and just overall good looking. also i drove my friends 92 accord from bronx NY to east haven CT which is about 75 miles and the gas needle didn't move (also have a 17 gallon tank). ever since then i had a passion for accords but i can agree they are slow but mostly i stood any from them because they are highly stolen. other wise i would buy a 1990-up accord manuel. or an integra but again highly stolen. [quote=dondadah88;8418369]
I had a 91 CB7 for 2 years and put over 60K on it... no comparison to the maxima what so ever... IDK about the manuals but the autos will get about 30mpg on the highway and thats it everyone who said that their cb7 auto get 35-40mpg on the highway is full of s***... I even met with a local cb7 forum people here from Columbus and they all agreed upon that... the CB7 also had its fare share of problems, Hondas are not perfect cars... there is no such thing as a perfect car... Some are better some are worst but after getting my maxima there is no way I will ever get back to an early year accords...
Here is the site where I purchased my struts and all the other parts associated with it... I used the "Replacement" brand struts so far close to 20,000 miles and no problems what so ever... I remember about year and half ago those front struts were $35 per unit and the rears were about $50 for both... I guess prices did go up...
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/index.php?N=0&Ntt=strut&Nr=AND%28universal:0%29&Ns =price2|0&No=0&Npp=15&VN=4294960609+4294960608+429 4967165+4294967130+4294967092&sv=0
Also you can search for parts on amazon or other sites... I just replaced the struts on my Audi A6 as well I went with the Monroe Sensa tracks this time b/c they are running a MIR and I just got got back $100 so I spend a total of about $140 for all 4 struts...
Do a research and you will find that most parts are pretty cheap and installation requires no "rocket science" skills
Last edited by L_U_D_I_AMaxima; 03-30-2012 at 06:58 AM.
04-13-2012, 02:57 PM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
hey all. my father has a car (a 1992 acura legend ls) he said i can have it. there is one problem with it however. i was wondering if you can chime in on this....
when you get off the clutch it makes a grinding noise and youhave to press the clutch back in to make it stop. the car does not move at all no matter what gear it's in. before it did that it use to make a popping noise when you get off the clutch but the car drove fine before then. then a loud pop happened and it never moved again....
as for the maxima. i decided it has to many things wrong and i dont have a garage that i can fix it myself.
now before you say the legend is this and that. it has many new parts on it why i decided to go to this route. engine has less then 41000 miles on it. so i think this is going to be my new car if this isn't to much to fix....
when you get off the clutch it makes a grinding noise and youhave to press the clutch back in to make it stop. the car does not move at all no matter what gear it's in. before it did that it use to make a popping noise when you get off the clutch but the car drove fine before then. then a loud pop happened and it never moved again....
as for the maxima. i decided it has to many things wrong and i dont have a garage that i can fix it myself.
now before you say the legend is this and that. it has many new parts on it why i decided to go to this route. engine has less then 41000 miles on it. so i think this is going to be my new car if this isn't to much to fix....
04-13-2012, 03:01 PM
#31
Going to have to pull the trans to see what is going on with the thing. Could be a blown out clutch. Could be the input shaft. Could even be the flywheel. The hard part is pulling a trans on a Legend because of its front-mid-engine/FWD setup where the engine is behind the trans and I believe one of the half-shafts goes through a hole in the oil pan.
04-13-2012, 04:43 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
thanks for your help and not "the legend is garbage why not keep the maxima"
any ways... the person who swapped the engine did a horrible job. but the clutch was done both axles, the radiator the alternator and many more. but it seems i have to talk it to a transmission shop and see what they say...
any ways... the person who swapped the engine did a horrible job. but the clutch was done both axles, the radiator the alternator and many more. but it seems i have to talk it to a transmission shop and see what they say...
04-14-2012, 12:38 PM
#33
Yeah no worries. personally I've always liked the Legends, especially a 94-95 Legend Sedan GS Type-II 6-speed. Super rare, but a hell of a car. If the engine goes, it's relatively straightforward to swap a 3.5RL engine in and they are just sexy as hell. Trouble is finding a low-mileage one that hasn't been beat to hell. Overall, I do think as a daily the Maxima is a better choice, but the Legend has better curves... 
04-17-2012, 01:56 PM
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Branford, CT
Posts: 66
i found someone who will drop the transmission in for 250. I know the person so I know it wont be hacked up. I just need to find a transmission. :-(
As for Maxima, the condition of the car is getting worse. I am at 219,140 and still undecided i will make my decision in a few days....
As for Maxima, the condition of the car is getting worse. I am at 219,140 and still undecided i will make my decision in a few days....
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