So i've been having some minor problems (pretty sure it's MAF) but before i figured that out i was looking into electrical problems and when i was watching a volt meter that's on my amp i'll see it dip pretty low ~11-12v with the a/c on when the sub hits hard (10" sub with a 350w amp) and from what i've heard that's pretty bad for the car, although i could be wrong, if so tell me lol. I was thinking about either getting a better battery (current is walmart brand) or adding another separate battery for the audio, but didn't know which would be better. I would honestly prefer not to have a second battery, but if i was to replace my battery i also was wondering if anyone had any experience with specific "car audio" batteries pertaining to which would produce good results.

I realize this is both a car audio/regular car question, but i posted it here in hopes to get more of a response. Any help is really appreciated, Thanks!

 

Anytime you strain the system it takes a toll on the charging system, similar concept to beating on your car - rushing between redlights and coming to quick stops.

A one colt drop doesn't sound concerning. However, if you can easily address the issue, you should.

My suggestion, how I fixes my issue, I simply added a capacitor at my amp. My amp is mounted to my folding back seat, I simply bolted it in beside my amp. Fixed the slight bass clipping I had noticed and eliminated the minor dimming of my lights.

Just my 0.02 cents.

 

If it is only happening at idle, it is probably normal as the alternator isn't putting out maximum power and a capacitor would help.

If this is happening at higher rpm, say 2k, you may have either a failing alternator or you have overloaded the alternator. You can get the alternator tested.

 

Sounds like it's time for a new alternator.

 

yup if your alt cant charge your battery well enough you will run through batteries. Does your car have trouble starting sometimes?

 

If your car is running and you're only reading 11-12V, your alternator is most likely toast. You should be reading closer to 14V at idle, or at least 13.5V, with the dips coming every time the sub hits.

 

It's got a new alternator on it, the other thing I forgot to mention was that this was with headlights on (no dimming btw), and yes it's at idle. So if that's normal i guess i've got nothing to worry about.

The capacitor was also i possible idea, but i've heard that the power it takes kinda cancels out the benefits so that's why i was thinking battery

 

capacitors are a waste of money unless you have a SERIOUS system or a terrible charging system. Dont waste your money on one of those .5 farad or even a 1 farad

 

^The above is very very good advice. Just a slight correction pulled out, below. He's saying at idle he is dropping to about 11-12v which is a 1.8-2.8V drop, as operating voltage should be 13.8-14.2 V.


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^This! Well said dude.

There's a crapload of discrepancies out there about capacitors. The fact is, people don't have a clue what they're talking about. So here's the low down, and a brief description on why some people will argue they're "useless":

-Capacitors of 0.5-1 Farad (average system requirement) cost around $50-100.
-If properly 'charged', hooked up correctly, and rated to the system power consumption properly, Capacitors do exactly what they're supposed to, VERY WELL.
-Capacitors do not 'take power'. Dunno what you've read or misunderstood to think that. Capacitors store power potential, they do this VERY, VERY efficiently, losing a miniscule amount of voltage in the process.

Now the reason big-time audio guys argue the point of getting capacitors is actually very simple:

A good 1 Farad Capacitor costs the same as A half-decent Battery. And a Battery stores a crapload more "potential" than a 1 Farad Capacitor does. So if you are serious about audio, or need more than 1 Farad Capacitor, it makes more sense to put a battery in.

To answer your question about which you should do, I need to know 3 things.
1. What size, type, and RMS rating is this equipment?
2. What size Ground and power is running to the Amp?
3. Where and how are you Grounding the system?

And if you really want to get solid answers post pictures of all the major connections on the system so we can tell you if they're done well enough.

 

all correct but in reality you don't need one. Just a good high load capable battery like the Optima Yellow Top. Don't waste your time unless your grounding at least 1 wire directly to the frame. Maxima's have terrible grounds to begin with so a good frame ground works wonders especially for starting

 

Oh and one more thing. All of this could be completely pointless because you can't check voltage at the amp if you're checking the Charging/Car side of things.

You need to check it at the BATTERY if you want to know what kind of strain you're putting on the system.

Checking at the AMP is to check the Stereo performance. Ideally you don't want much more than 0.5 V drop with a decent bass hit, and this will only be acheived with Capacitors and/or a Battery installed wicked close to the Amp, and/or ridiculously large wiring from the main battery.

 

We don't have a clue what his system is, so you can't say he does/doesn't need anything...

Personally I agree for the most part, with proper grounds, connections, cabling, and a decent battery, you'll be fine for the bulk of your standard 250 RMS subwoofer systems.

 

and please for the love of god dont get copper clad aluminum power wire. Knuconceptz(?) makes good cheap power wire. It makes a difference. I make about 14v at the battery and it doesnt drop at the amp

 

This is true. I just always assume people have put in Wal-mart wiring and wonder why the bass doesn't hit the way they want to and why it is draining power so quickly. I came from car-audio forums and those people are CRAZY lol I couldnt take it anymore

 

SMH.... Of course with a/c on the car is running. Don't know where my brain was!

Go have alt checked.

 

Let's throw in some overkill.

How about an alternator that puts out 200 amps at idle, 270 amps max?

Of course it costs a little more that the stock type.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2002~...39-270-xp.html

 

What they dont say is it only lasts for about 6 months at best lmao.

 

I'm still sticking with it being the alternator. I worked for an auto parts company for 4 years and we had faulty alternators returned on a daily basis, new and reman.