its time for engine mount. Just wondering if anyone got feedback for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-01-Infini...fe3e76&vxp=mtr

Thanx guys!

 

Yeah, don't waste your money. Not because it's eBay, but because you can spend your money more wisely. If you only need the from, just replace it with the manual tranny version off eBay. Should be able to pick one up for around $30 shipped.

 

ES inserts

/thread

 

He would still have to get a front mount for a manual.
/thread

 

Yeap thats how much I got mine for.......

Did those .....

And Yes...

 

for manual mount is it a direct fit? any good place to get a set of 4? btw, I dun wanna get ES because I dun wanna do the press thing... I mean if 200 bux can get a set of good electric mount that will last me another 170,000km, I am fine with that

 

You can get all four solid mounts that should last at least 100k miles for right at $100 shipped. Here is the mobile link. Not sure how the link will work if you're on PC. But, just do a search for "2003 maxima engine mount." Year doesn't really matter. Look for a set of four. Think the seller is onlinewholesaleparts or something.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=41548755260

 

so i can use these to replace a set of mounts on a 2002 automatic?? the automatic has the electronic mount and i want to get rid of it for fear of it shorting out the ECU which they say is a very common problem.

 

Yes. Will replace both if you have elect mounts. Just unplug it and leave the harness. No codes. Manual engine mounts are direct replacements. The only mount that is not a direct replacement is the transmission mount.

So actually, the link I posted may not work for you if it has the manual transmission mount. Easy enough, you can either contact the seller and see about swapping out the manual tranny for the auto tranny mount......or you can buy a three peice kit that excludes the tranny mount, then buying it seperate.......or buy all the peices seperate.

In any case, you still come out cheaper and in better shape than trying to buy a replacement electric mount.

 

I'd have to say, I got the $100 set and the front mount closest to the radiator is cracked now. The rest are holding up well though. I must be getting some sort of torque twist from being lowered. ES mounts are on the list now.

 

I would at minimal do the passenger side mount using Knights Wrayth bushing. ES does not make inserts for the passenger mount or tranny mount. Only Knight.

 

I bought them and filled them all with polyurethane...best investment imo.

 

I got a set off eBay for 100 to my door, has it on for about 11k miles and it feels the same way as the day one. I'm checking condition of them around every month on the lift and it's still in great shape.
The feel compared to OEM mounts is more harsh when you engage into Drive.

I got 01 though, also auto

 

Do you have a write up (without pictures is fine).

Btw, i got the $100 set from ebay and installed it about two years back (and less than 10k miles), and my passenger side is making the thumping noises again. I did not take it out to test, but i am thinking it is broken.

 

Btw, anyone got instructions on how to get it done?

 

+1

I have a set in my garage that I filled last week with Loctite polyurethane sealant. If you decide to do this then don't bother buying any electric mounts and go for the standard rubber mounts for $100 (got mine from ABCMart). I will probably be putting them on this weekend once they've had a chance to cure. I was concerned about vibration being transferred to the cabin so I cut and glued rubber sheets to any exposed surfaces of the mount housings and then coated the mounts heavily with a rubberized undercoating. I did this in hopes of deadening any vibration before it reaches the chassis. I'm not sure how well this will work but I did notice that before attaching all the rubber that if I knocked on the metal portions of the mounts with my knuckle it would have a slight ring like a tuning fork but after adding the insulation it just sounds like a dead blow hammer. I found the rubber sheets in the plumbing section of Home Depot. They were listed as rubber packing sheets from a company called Danco.

There are instruction all over the net on how to fill motor mounts so it's not that difficult to figure out. Depending on how aggressive you want to be you can fill just the front and rear mounts since they handle the majority of the torque or you can fill all four mounts for major stiffness. I do recommend filling the mounts only a small portion at a time. This will give any air bubbles a better chance to settle. Not all polyurethane sealants are the same as well. If you go with loctite products, the roof sealant seems to be the best option unless you want to make the mounts super stiff then you can use their polyurethane construction adhesive. It's like filling the mounts with concrete.

 

So did you gut out the mounts or just added the poly fill in the gaps? Also can you give us a link to the loctite product you have used.

Thanks in advance.

 

Got my set from fleabay as well. Well built. They come from TN, they are good as OEM. Replaced the left side (pass) which was busted, still have 3, front, rear and tranny sitting in a box.

 

I filled them as is without gutting them. This car is my daily driver and I have solid motor mounts on my other car so I wanted to make it a little stiffer than stock without compromising too much comfort.

Here's the product I used:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

And here is the construction adhesive that is much stiffer:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

 

Thanks a lot for the info. I think my passenger side is shot, so i will try filling that first.

 

If you're doing this to used mounts, make sure that the mount is cleaned thoroughly with brake or carb and choke cleaner for proper adhesion. This should be done with new mounts as well to remove any residue left over from manufacturing.

On a side note. Any tricks to getting to the nut on the passenger side mount that faces down? It's directly over the alt belt tensioner and I can see that I'm probably not going to be able to get my impact up in there due to the crank pulley.

 

I used a ratchet with a combination of extension rods. The nut came off pretty easily, and i had 80000 miles on the car.

 

Yep, it came off easy with extensions (and maybe a swivel, I can't remember).

Two people make it a lot easier.

 

Cool, I got it last night with a 14" extension and swivel on the end. Not as bad as I thought it would be.