mmeawad

Hello fello Maxima lovers. I have a 2K3 6 speed, I just replaced the engine, at first I kept getting the p0335 code, but the car would take a long time to start but eventually it would start and run strong. I realized the reason for the code is I mixed up the sockets for the Crank Position with the O2 sensor. After correcting the crossing the car will now start right up but idle like hell for a few seconds and die, I tried pressing the accelerator and that doesn't help. I have an OBD2 scanner and I checked the readings from all the sensors and everything seems to be responding ok. Any ideas? I went through the, Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure for 2K2+ and the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure for 2K2+ still with no luck, any suggestions on where to go from here? If I unplug the crank sensor it runs fine just takes a while to start.

Thanks everyone for your help.

mmeawad

bump

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

You've already diagnosed your own problem here actually. You need a new crank sensor. I will give you fair warning too. DO NOT BUY THIS PART NON-OEM! They are a very specific and delicate piece on your engine that can make or break your car's reliability. Granted, they are a bit pricey from the dealer, but you can thank me later when you don't have to replace it over and over again.

Also, there was a recall on them, so you may want to contact the dealer and see if it applies to your car. Mine is a 2002 and it applied to my car. If you'd like a story on why you shouldn't buy them aftermarket, I'll gladly oblige.

-Nathan

mmeawad

Thanks I should've put in my original message that I replaced the crankshaft sensor with a borg warner part but it could be bad I'll test it and see. I called Nissan and my car isn't covered in the recall.

mmeawad

Ok so I went and got new crank and cam sensors from Nissan this time and ended up with the same result here are the readings from my scanner with key on engine off at room temperature:

ABSLT TPS .4
eng speed 0
calc load 0
MAF (LB/M) .02
Coolant 102 F
IAT 102 F
IGN Advance 63.5
ST FTRM1 0
LT FTRM1 0
ST FTRM2 0
LT FTRM2 0
Veh Speed 0 MPH
Fuel sys 1 Open
Fuel sys 2 open
O2S11 0
ST FTRM11 -100
o2s12 .290
o2s21 0
ST FRM21 -100
O2s22 .430

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, there's not much to look at as far as real time data unless the car's running. Try this; turn the key to on (don't start), wait at least 3 seconds and turn it back to off. You should be able to hear the throttle unit make a noise. If you do not hear a noise then you either have a problem with your throttle unit or you didn't wait long enough.

The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) is built into the throttle assembly. Aside from the crank sensor, I would say you need to test/replace the throttle assembly, check for intake leaks (specifically around the manifold), test the fuel pump, and it never hurts to check the simple stuff (spark plugs, all coils, throttle, and mafs plugged in correctly, etc.). Normally, if you can get the car to start but it doesn't stay running, and it's a known good engine, then it's something small that was often at times just simply overlooked.

Have you done the ECU reset procedure yet? Not sure how effective that will be in curing your problem, but it certainly won't hurt.

-Nathan

mmeawad

thanks for your help Nathan, I do hear the throttle body, and since the engine starts, and runs fine with the crankshaft position sensor unplugged leads to believe that the engine is good. would an issue with the MAF cause this? any idea how to test the variable valve actuators located on the front of the valve covers? I just don't get why it would run with the crankshaft sensor unplugged.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Check to make sure that you didn't accidentally cross the o2 sensor plug with the crank sensor plug at the top front of the motor. I know it sounds asinine, but you wouldn't be the first person it ever happened to.

There's not much to it when testing the variable timing solenoids, just unplug it, set your multimeter to read ohms, touch each of the two contacts on the solenoid, and read the result. It should be, IIRC, 7.5 ohms of resistance at 68*F. I don't see them as being the cause, but it's not a difficult or time consuming test by any means.

The MAFS malfunctioning can cause all kinds of weird things to happen with an engine. Engine's, obviously, need air, fuel, and spark to run, and the MAFS is the engine's Greek God of Air. Never hurts to test it, especially since they're a bit of a known trouble area for the Maxima.

-Nathan

mmeawad

I originally did mix up the O2 sensor and crank sensor sockets that caused me to get a p0335, but the car would start and run, it just took a bit to start. I tested the solenoids and got 7.8 ohms on both and got the same on the ones on my old engine at about 95F. How do I test the MAF? I'm suspecting my ECU but I don't know why it would fail.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

It's highly unlikely for an ECU to just fail, so I wouldn't start thinking about that unless you've tested just about everything else. Any chance you've got a intake leak? Manifold or otherwise after the MAFS? Did you install new manifold gaskets when you dropped the engine in there or did you use the old gaskets?

-Nathan

mmeawad

I installed a new throttle body gasket but that was it. Here is a question for you, do you know where the negative battery cable connects to the engine? What about other ground points to the coils, sensors, and ECU?

mmeawad

I also have one more question could the flywheel be causing this problem? I'm pretty sure I installed it correctly using the guide pin/dowel but if I didn't would that do it? I'd hate to take down that transmission again but I'm running short on ideas.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

There is a ground cluster on the top left side of the engine that sits right next to where the harness runs. This a ground area for all of your coils, injectors, etc. The main ground from the battery should run from the battery to the frame rail and then above the transmission and bolt to a tab that hangs off of the coolant runner. It's pretty flimsy IMO, so you can bolt it somewhere else that you feel is a bit more taut.

It's possible the intake manifold gaskets are causing a leak, but I don't imagine that it would cause such a drastic inability to run, so don't worry too much about that ATM.

I would try unplugging the MAFS and see if it will stay running. If it does, you've pretty much found your culprit. If it still doesn't then I would follow the FSM procedure on testing the MAFS.

Lastly, it may be a good idea to hard reset the entire electrical system. To do this, remove both battery cables and hold the positive terminal to the negative terminal for more than 10 seconds. Don't worry, this isn't going to fry anything, all you're doing is completing a circuit by doing this. Put the terminals back on the battery post, and run the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, Accelerator Pedal Release Learning, and then try to start it and run the Idle Air Volume Learning.

-Nathan

mmeawad

I unplugged the MAF and still the same result, I also did the hard reset and that didn't help. At this point I'm about to drop the transmission and check the flywheel, I replaced with a brand new one from the dealer and while it looked like my old one and fit fine I didn't verify that the disc used by the crankshaft position sensor that is attached to it matches my old one, maybe the parts guy gave me the wrong flywheel.