MAF Replaced, Still No Improvement. I'm Stumped.
#1
MAF Replaced, Still No Improvement. I'm Stumped.
Two months ago I finally got around to addressing the SES light on my 2000 GLE. I've posted on the .org a few times about it, and I think I've fixed all the issues that triggered the SES, but it's still running like s**t. The code was P1320, but occassionally a P0171 and P0174 would appear.
Back in May I took it to a Nissan dealership. Not only did they not fix the problem, they made it a hell of a lot worse. When I brought it in, it had an occassional stalling while idiling issue. They "supposedly" tried changing out the ignition coils to fix the SES and it didn't work. So, they returned the car to me. When I got it back and took it home, it ran horribly and was really screwed up. The whole car shook violently and smelled like rotten eggs. I took a look under the hood and saw that they had left two of the six coils disconnected. I reconnected them and ran it again, and it ran somewhat better, but the performance had decreased overall and now started having issues. It would not rev pass 2500, it hesitates, and bucks when accelerating.
A couple weeks later, I noticed one of the coils did not have the gray sticker on it. So I replaced it myself. To my amazement, the P1320 disappeared! The dealership lied, and probably never touched the coils.
But, this didn't solve the performance issue. I did some research on here, and the most common cause of other members having the same issues is the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So, I replaced that today. I also left the battery disconnected for several hours to reset the ECU. I took it out on the road, and to my disappoinment, there was no noticable improvement The P0171 hasn't come on, but it could come back.
Since getting it back from the dealership, I also constantly hear a hissing sound while accelerating. If it's not hissing, then there is another sound that is like a squealing sound. Both only occur during acceleration. Also, I've heard that I should take it to a dealership to have the ECU reprogrammed to work with the new MAF. Would that help?
Back in May I took it to a Nissan dealership. Not only did they not fix the problem, they made it a hell of a lot worse. When I brought it in, it had an occassional stalling while idiling issue. They "supposedly" tried changing out the ignition coils to fix the SES and it didn't work. So, they returned the car to me. When I got it back and took it home, it ran horribly and was really screwed up. The whole car shook violently and smelled like rotten eggs. I took a look under the hood and saw that they had left two of the six coils disconnected. I reconnected them and ran it again, and it ran somewhat better, but the performance had decreased overall and now started having issues. It would not rev pass 2500, it hesitates, and bucks when accelerating.
A couple weeks later, I noticed one of the coils did not have the gray sticker on it. So I replaced it myself. To my amazement, the P1320 disappeared! The dealership lied, and probably never touched the coils.
But, this didn't solve the performance issue. I did some research on here, and the most common cause of other members having the same issues is the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So, I replaced that today. I also left the battery disconnected for several hours to reset the ECU. I took it out on the road, and to my disappoinment, there was no noticable improvement The P0171 hasn't come on, but it could come back.
Since getting it back from the dealership, I also constantly hear a hissing sound while accelerating. If it's not hissing, then there is another sound that is like a squealing sound. Both only occur during acceleration. Also, I've heard that I should take it to a dealership to have the ECU reprogrammed to work with the new MAF. Would that help?
#2
Knighty_yyz brought up something i didnt know, that the new replacement MAFS for the 2000/2001 need programming by nissan. It's actually the ECU that needs programming ot accept the 'updated' MAFS that is now in circuilation.
A new/replacement mafs for the 2000/2001 NEEDS to be calibrated by the dealer, is the long and short of his message.
A new/replacement mafs for the 2000/2001 NEEDS to be calibrated by the dealer, is the long and short of his message.
#4
#6
Today I took it to another Nissan dealership to have the ECU reprogrammed. After about an hour, they told me that the ECM "blew up" while they were doing it. They're replacing it for free, but it will take until Saturday Accidents happen I suppose, but my luck really sucks lately.
#7
#8
Today I took it to another Nissan dealership to have the ECU reprogrammed. After about an hour, they told me that the ECM "blew up" while they were doing it. They're replacing it for free, but it will take until Saturday Accidents happen I suppose, but my luck really sucks lately.
Assuming (hoping) they don't mess something up, maybe a new ECU will fix it
#9
sorry to hear about your dearer issues. I just got finished dealing with the dealer here in Nampa, ID. It's no wonder that almost everyone hates the dealers. I love NISSAN's and always have but I got to tell you.....if someone told me that there was a manufacturer that had honest dealerships.....I would switch over to that brand. But, that's just not realistic.
So, I am thinking to replace my MAF sensor also. Are you folks saying that IF I replace my MAF sensor, the dealer will need to reprogram my ECU to make the new MAF sensor work properly?
I am thinking of replacing it since a few people on another one of my posts have suggested to do that to possibly resolve the sluggish performance and hesitation between 3000-3500 rpm's.
So, I am thinking to replace my MAF sensor also. Are you folks saying that IF I replace my MAF sensor, the dealer will need to reprogram my ECU to make the new MAF sensor work properly?
I am thinking of replacing it since a few people on another one of my posts have suggested to do that to possibly resolve the sluggish performance and hesitation between 3000-3500 rpm's.
#10
sorry to hear about your dearer issues. I just got finished dealing with the dealer here in Nampa, ID. It's no wonder that almost everyone hates the dealers. I love NISSAN's and always have but I got to tell you.....if someone told me that there was a manufacturer that had honest dealerships.....I would switch over to that brand. But, that's just not realistic.
So, I am thinking to replace my MAF sensor also. Are you folks saying that IF I replace my MAF sensor, the dealer will need to reprogram my ECU to make the new MAF sensor work properly?
I am thinking of replacing it since a few people on another one of my posts have suggested to do that to possibly resolve the sluggish performance and hesitation between 3000-3500 rpm's.
So, I am thinking to replace my MAF sensor also. Are you folks saying that IF I replace my MAF sensor, the dealer will need to reprogram my ECU to make the new MAF sensor work properly?
I am thinking of replacing it since a few people on another one of my posts have suggested to do that to possibly resolve the sluggish performance and hesitation between 3000-3500 rpm's.
#11
To follow up on this thread, I drove about 100-ish miles and suddenly the engine started to run a million times better. I guess there was a relearn process with the new/reprogrammed.
Ssadcuderi, just curious, did your new MAF come with a green sticker and/or a yellow mark on the sensor?
#14
I've been hearing that Nissan's newer MAFS require ECU reprogramming. They did this for me (obviously I went to a different dealership). Plus, When I got the part it came with a warning that the ECU needs to be reprogrammed. I'm guessing they're designing them differently now so they don't suck? Who knows.
To follow up on this thread, I drove about 100-ish miles and suddenly the engine started to run a million times better. I guess there was a relearn process with the new/reprogrammed.
Ssadcuderi, just curious, did your new MAF come with a green sticker and/or a yellow mark on the sensor?
To follow up on this thread, I drove about 100-ish miles and suddenly the engine started to run a million times better. I guess there was a relearn process with the new/reprogrammed.
Ssadcuderi, just curious, did your new MAF come with a green sticker and/or a yellow mark on the sensor?
#15
Out here they charge 97 bucks just to see whats up...so you will most likely pay that for the reprogram.......
#16
I know I'm newer here but I'm a Ford tech, but an aspiring Nissan tech, when I bought my 96 se it had a bad hesitation on heavy acceleration. I know how simple it sounds, but check your plugs..... My acted just like a maf. Set of ngks and it runs like a raped ape.
#20
Stealership says Bank 1 #2 sensor is reading 0.0 (nothing..not working) I did read it ranges from 0.0-0.5! The package for the MaF (22680-2Y001) does state to do a relearn by the stealership. LOST ON WHAT TO DO!!!!
#21
The sensor was like $100 and I did it myself. In fact, that may have been the first job I ever did on a car by myself...ever. I have never done an MAF swap yet. From the reading many people did not do the relearn after the swap. I do know that they came out with another MAF that has a label saying a relearn is required. Again, I don't know if you HAVE to. Hopefully someone that has been there chimes in.
#24
I also have a 2000 gle... I've not had to do a relearn at the stealership, BUUUUTTTT.... for all you '00-'01 fellas, I have noticed that anytime you disconnect the maf and/or the connector on that little blue thing, the car will always run like crap at first. I actually went to the last meet with the car running like pooh, since I had just replaced the upper and lower IM gaskets and knock sensor. Here's the trick, it's worked for me every time! Do an idle relearn... it's magic! Word of warning though... these little boogers are stubborn! I think it took us like 8, if not 9 tries before the relearn took. Do a search for the correct idle relearn procedure for your year. '00-'01's use the tps disconnect method and '02-'03's use the pedal dance method.
Another thing, you WILL notice when the relearn finally takes, it's noticeable... after you do the relearn, your car may still run a little weird, but once the computer relearns all the parameters, it'll be really nice!
Oh, and don't underestimate the power of a good tune-up and a Seafoam treatment. I hope this helps.
Another thing, you WILL notice when the relearn finally takes, it's noticeable... after you do the relearn, your car may still run a little weird, but once the computer relearns all the parameters, it'll be really nice!
Oh, and don't underestimate the power of a good tune-up and a Seafoam treatment. I hope this helps.
#25
#27
Pushed 130 miles and the code is back. Maxx runs like a scalded dog!!!! Now time to work on the O2 sensor!!! The dealer did do the idle air relearn and updated the ecm with the new program according to the new maf instructions!!!
#28
Besides a faulty MAF and/or O2 Sensor, there are several other things that can trigger a P0171. Here's something to look at about that code: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0171. You may want to let your engine idle and listen to it to make sure there aren't any loose hoses. Sometimes a leaky hose can cause this. If you haven't checked or changed your fuel filter recently, now would be a good time to do so. A dirty or clogged fuel filter can also cause that code.
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4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-27-2015 09:53 PM