Valve Cover Bolts
#1
Valve Cover Bolts
I'm new here so excuse me if my question is out of place. I have a 2000 Maxima with what appears to be a back valve cover leak. I've been told that I could probably do the job myself of changing both gaskets, which I might try. I'm sure I can do it, but I would need a very good step by step procedure on doing the job. I've done this on old cars like a 1969 Camaro but there's nothing in your way but on these cars it's a lot different. Can someone just give me a place to find some procedures on this and is it possible to get to the back valve cover bolts without removing anything?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
well, i hate to burst your bubble, but removing the rear valve cover bolts w/o removing anything is an impossibility.
I just did this about 4 weeks ago, removing the upper intake is harder than replacing the actual gasket.
If you label the hoses and know how to angle the manifold out of the way , it should be easy.
btw the FSM doesn't have a how-to removing the upper intake
I just did this about 4 weeks ago, removing the upper intake is harder than replacing the actual gasket.
If you label the hoses and know how to angle the manifold out of the way , it should be easy.
btw the FSM doesn't have a how-to removing the upper intake
#3
Yeah man Amave is right, there is no way to do this without taking off the UIM. There are two 12mm bolts on the backside next the fire wall that you can't see, you just have to feel with your hand. I would suggest doing the front and rear at the same time, replacing the gaskets, and spark plug tube seals, rock auto has the whole kit for $35 (FEL-PRO Part # VS50494R1). Also I would suggest replacing spark plugs, it is much easier with the UIM removed.
The links below should help you out, I know one is for the 4th Gen but same principle:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...im-gasket.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
The links below should help you out, I know one is for the 4th Gen but same principle:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...im-gasket.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
#4
Thanks for the replies. So if I understand correctly I can't even get to the rear valve cover bolts even if I just wanted to see if one or more of the bolts need to be slightly tightened down a tad? When I change the valve cover gaskets what other things do I need to check or replace while I have things removed out of the way? I'm planning on changing the spark plugs, but I didn't know what else. The car has 215,000 on it, but I'm not sure how long ago the plugs were changed. Thanks.
Last edited by Donnie; 07-28-2012 at 04:46 AM.
#5
^ replace the spark plugs, the spark plug grommets ( located inside the valve cover, you will see each valve cover has 3 of them if you flip the valve cover upside down ) , also replace the upper intake manifold gasket, they normally have them in stock at Advance Auto ( fel-pro ) , but check to be sure ..
Also DO NOT TORQUE THE BOLTS IN FOOT LBS!! They only require about 10 INCH/LBS of torque .
I didnt torque the UIM down tho, just tightened them down snug ( using a 3/4 ratchet and a 10 mm ) i tightened them down with one hand until i couldnt tighten any more ...No problems yet from doing this
Also invest in some ratcheting wrenches for the rear 12 mm bolts that hold the UIM down to the bracket on the head. It will make things so much easier than using a traditional box wrench . If you only wanbt to buy one, get the 12 mm , otherwise Harbor Freight has the set for like $20. You will thank me later .
And use gray RTV ( silicone ) on the corners, this is an absolute MUST , do not skip this step , and i suggest letting the car sit overnight so the silicone can cure on the corners , that way the oil pressure and heat dont weaken the silicone or you might have oil push through the wet silicone.
And doing things the first time the correct way will save you hassle down the road
Also DO NOT TORQUE THE BOLTS IN FOOT LBS!! They only require about 10 INCH/LBS of torque .
I didnt torque the UIM down tho, just tightened them down snug ( using a 3/4 ratchet and a 10 mm ) i tightened them down with one hand until i couldnt tighten any more ...No problems yet from doing this
Also invest in some ratcheting wrenches for the rear 12 mm bolts that hold the UIM down to the bracket on the head. It will make things so much easier than using a traditional box wrench . If you only wanbt to buy one, get the 12 mm , otherwise Harbor Freight has the set for like $20. You will thank me later .
And use gray RTV ( silicone ) on the corners, this is an absolute MUST , do not skip this step , and i suggest letting the car sit overnight so the silicone can cure on the corners , that way the oil pressure and heat dont weaken the silicone or you might have oil push through the wet silicone.
And doing things the first time the correct way will save you hassle down the road
#7
Skin Tightening Procedures
Our skin consists of two membranes, the primary membrane as well as the outer layer. To keep the skin tight and supple, the collagen operates as the essential part of the primary layer. The trouble is that the body cuts down on the manufacturing of collagen when aging, causing into wrinkles and tighten body skin.
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
Last edited by PatrickGlover; 08-04-2012 at 10:05 AM.
#8
Our skin consists of two membranes, the primary membrane as well as the outer layer. To keep the skin tight and supple, the collagen operates as the essential part of the primary layer. The trouble is that the body cuts down on the manufacturing of collagen when aging, causing into wrinkles and sagging of skin.![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
#10
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