jontay

I have a 2000 Maxima SE w/ 5 sp manual. Just completed an oil change (myself) and now the vehicle won't run. It turns over fine but will not 'catch'. Almost like a fuel problem? There was an electrical connector very close to the oil filter. I disconnected and reconnected to make sure was all OK. Engine still just turns over but will not run. Any ideas???

note: right after oil change (before I started car), I disconnected the battery. Re-connected the battery after about 10 seconds. I did this because the 'service engine soon' light had came on recently (had also been on before) which was due to diagnostic codes p0138 and p0139 which are an O2 sensor issue (exhaust system). Was hoping the light would reset for awhile by doing the battery disconnect. I don't think this should have affected the not being able to run issue.

Thanks for any input.

Alias6

Did you check the fuses? I searched around and couldn't find an answer, but I thought that that might be a good place to start.

edit: did you happen to leave the doors open or anything while changing the oil? you could of killed your battery?

jontay

I checked the fuses under the dash.They appear to be OK. Specifically checked the one labeled "fuel pump" and it was OK. The various fuse blocks under the hood don't seem to be labeled with anything that would pertain to this....best I can tell.

All the doors, etc. were closed. The engine "turns over". It just won't "catch" or continue to run on its' own etc. The battery appears to be fine.

Went back under the car, near the oil filter area, and don't notice anything that I might have broke, disconnected, etc. The only wire is the one mentioned in my initial post.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

is the "security" light ON when you turn the key to the ON position, or is it just flashing?

jontay

the 'security' light (next to the time clock, on top of the dash) stays ON solid while trying to start car.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

DINGDINGDING

You, sir, have been immobilized. Your NATS system thinks that you're trying to steal the car. Call a locksmith that knows Nissan's NATS and they'll reprogram it for you, or you can get it towed to the Dealer and get raped for the same thing.

jontay

Really? just because I disconnected the battery it caused this?

What is NATS.........Nissan Anti Theft System?

btw, thanks Amerikaner83.

Does anyone know of a way around this? This all seems a bit ridiculous (if Amerikaner83 is correct) if this is the case.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

NATS is, unfortunately, a bit rediculous. It began in the 99 model year (I've got one) and it went from there. Cars in the 99-00years, the first year or two of the new system, tend to have this issue plague 'em. Sorry. I hope I am wrong, but judging from all the other posts I've read about NATS you're screwed.

Do you have another key? Try that.

The basic way NATS works, is that there's a resistance measurement inside the key. The NATS module looks for a certain resistance, and will allow the car to start when that resistance value is present. Over time (remember, these cars are 12-13 years old) the resistance of the circuitry varies and changes, and at the most inopportune time, your NATS will act up, immobilizing the car.

jontay

just to clarify...just in case.......

The red 'security' light is flashing (slowly) while the car is just sitting there, not running, no key turned on to auxiliary, etc. In other words, if the car was parked with no one it, and you were to look in the window, the red security light would be slowly flashing.

The light is solid ON when trying to start the car.

Not sure if this helps clarify or not.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

yeppers, that's NATS.

flashing is normal...indicating the system is armed or w/e...ON steady is activated.


I had issues with my prior car (97 Grand Am), it would do the OPPOSITE, it'd flash when it was acting up. But yes, with NATS, if it's steady ON, it's activated and you're not going anywhere.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news....but call a locksmith, ask them if they know how to reprogram the Nissan anti-theft system. You may have to call around a couple places, but it's much better than a dealer. I have the number of one locally in my phone that knows about it, just in case...I'm prepared for it when and if it happens to me. *knock on wood*

jontay

Thanks Amerikaner83.

Also,

I bought this car a little over 2 months ago. The previous owner only had 1 key so I had a spare made at Walmart ($65) as I did not want to be locked out of the car in an emergency, etc. The walmart key did not fit the "hide-a-key" so I put the original, smaller, factory key in the "hide-a-key" and use the larger walmart key as my main key.

I tried using the original master key but still the same problem.

Just for everyone's information in case they run into this problem.

Wow, I'm just blown away that a car can just have this kind of random problem.

I typed NATS into the search box but nothing came up. hhhhmmmmmmmmmmm.....(while I scratch my head).

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

.org search sucks.

go to google, type in "NATS 2000 maxima" and see what pops up:

http://www.google.com/search?q=nats+...archBox&ie=&oe=

jontay

Thanks again, Amerikaner83.

No luck so far. Tried various things I read online:
- put key in ignition 6-10 times until lights flash (they did) and then try starting (no luck).
- key to OFF position and then ON position for 5 seconds, do that 2 more times (3 total) until lights flash (they did), and then try starting (still no luck).

Read another post (from googling) about finding a white box under dash, near right knee, and unplugging wire harness/connector and then plug it back in. hhhmmmmm, not sure though.

Kind of looks like it may have to be taken to a dealer. Maybe research it for a day or two and see what happens. Wondering if using a Walmart key caused all of this?

user name001

just out of curiousity.. try going up to the drivers door with the proper factory key, lock the door with the key and unlock, then try starting it.

this works for acuras, prob wont work but give it a try. i was stuck paying 700 dollars to have a second key made, reprogramming and a new NATS antenna installed and the tow.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The 10 second second disconnect of the battery cable caused the NATS to blow up. There is no fooling around, no screwing around or Mickey Mousing that you can do to get around the NATS immobilization on a Nissan. You have to bite the bullet and get it re-programmed.

OMG! has your butt hole healed yet?!?!?!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I've read from a bunch of guys that these have to be done at Nissan.

BUT I have personally done it myself a few times with no problems at all. That was on a 2003. Same thing, crank all day but won't start.

Cleared the ECU of all the NATS codes with my generic OBDII scanner, and BAM fired right up.

The NATS codes DID come back, after some hunting I found out it was because of an old partially disconnected, and improperly wired remote start system. I removed the Radio interferance piece reset the ECU and all was good with that car until I sold it.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you were using WalMart key to start the car without problems before this trouble. If so, WalMart folks had to add its key to your ECU memory. The way NATS actually works it reads the code from the chip inside the key using circular antenna around keyhole and compares it with the list stored in ECU memory. There's no direct electric contact required. The chip is inside the plastic part of the stock key.

IIRC there's no way to 'add' a key to ECU memory even with dealer's equipment - they can erase them all and then add them all in one session. That's why dealers insist on bringing all your keys for reprogramming. It's interesting to know how WallMart went about this.

Here's a quote about the similar case with Altima. Guy also made extra keys and as he learned NATS goes into locked down mode after 5 attempts to start the engine with such key. It would help if you could read error codes from ECU. It seems if NATS codes are present then clearing those codes, disconnecting battery and then performing 'escape' procedure allowed him to start the engine:

jontay

Final results.............

Locksmith came to house and verified Walmart key was a blank and had never been programmed. This caused the problem. Also, He could not reprogram anything because his decoder/programmer was 'locked out' from the inner control module.

Had car towed to Nissan dealer.

Nissan dealer (Bronco Motors - Nampa, ID. BANDITS!!!) said I needed a new control module as the car was 'locked out'. They also quoted one price for a new key and charged me significantly more when I arrived to pick up car. They did not get my approval to charge more for key. Dealer had my car for 4 days.

total damages:

walmart key: $ 60 (reimbursed at local store)
locksmith: $ 40 (reimbursed at local store)
towing: $ 50
Dealer: $486 (trouble shooting, module, key, programming)

Here's the kicker. The local Walmart store I first bought key from has admitted that it is their fault and opened a 'claim' with their home office (I went directly to the highest person in charge of the store that day...in this case the assist. mgr.). Walmart home office called me the very next day and said they were mailing a check out for remainder of damages (dealer and towing - $536). Said it would take 5-10 days to receive check. I'm at day 3 so hopefully get something next week. I will believe it when I see it. I will be PLEASANTLY surprised if Walmart stands behind this as they say they will.

The lesson learned here............

DO NOT HAVE SPARE KEYS MADE AT WALMART !!!!!

Walmart does not have the technology, experience or expertise to make duplicate keys if they have the micro chip in them.

I will advise if check arrives and I will also post something in a general forum (any other ideas where to post?) about this NATS & Key problem.

Thank you so much to all who responded. It was GREATLY appreciated.

Cheers.

Jontay

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I'm sorry, but I LOLed. What do you expect going anywhere near that cess pool?
Consider it punishment for shopping at such a foul place.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

If you just need it to open the door it will do, just don't try to start the engine.

Did dealer give your 'locked' ECU to you? If so, it is still as good as any used one IMO as there was nothing wrong with it, they could simply 'reset' it without replacement.

jontay

follow up results:

Within 1 week of submitting final invoices, Walmart paid - in . A total of almost $650 in costs. To say the least, I am surprised as I thought this was going to be a real battle.

Damn, I was going to ask for the old control module and completely forgot. Rats.

Anyway, thanks again to all who replied.

andrewmac

iTrader: (2)

The fact they called you to tell you they were going to do it and not to ask you questions, and also how prompt of a payment it was makes me think this isn't the first time this has happened with their automotive department. It's probably a fairly common screw-up for them.

jontay

I was thinking the same thing.

jontay

So, am I going to have a problem with NATS every time I disconnect my battery?

CaTalyst.X

iTrader: (6)

No. Your NATS problems were from the Wal Mart key.

jontay

Yeah, I know the NATS problem was from the Wallyworld key. I just wanted to make sure that his message was not stating that the battery disconnect would cause a problem also. Thanks for clarifying though.