strut bar
IMO, the strut bar on the 5/5.5 is cosmetic. Not to say it does absolutely nothing, but my experience has been what little it does is still not warrent a $40 price tag. I paid $20 for one of mine, sold it soon after. No noticeable change. I did drive curvy roads and it just made no difference.
Now, on my 3rd gen, significant improvement.
Now, on my 3rd gen, significant improvement.
IMO, the strut bar on the 5/5.5 is cosmetic. Not to say it does absolutely nothing, but my experience has been what little it does is still not warrent a $40 price tag. I paid $20 for one of mine, sold it soon after. No noticeable change. I did drive curvy roads and it just made no difference.
Now, on my 3rd gen, significant improvement.
Now, on my 3rd gen, significant improvement.
On the 5th gen, it won't do a thing for "curvy roads". What it will do is help keep your car planted when you launch hard from a standing start into a sharp turn. It will give you more control over that moment where you would normally be fighting the FWD torque steer.
That's about it. And really, that also makes it worth buying.
Oh, and good thing for this thread, because to date I don't think anyone on the Org has ever created a thread about the FSTB. This might be the very first one.
That's about it. And really, that also makes it worth buying.
Oh, and good thing for this thread, because to date I don't think anyone on the Org has ever created a thread about the FSTB. This might be the very first one.
Last edited by Rochester; Aug 3, 2012 at 06:19 PM.
So there's what it does. OP, you've got to decide if that is worth a $20-40+ price tag.
I am guessing here, but it seems to me the main reason the FSTB does almost nothing on the 5/5.5 is due to how seperated and isolated the front suspension components are. I mean, comparatively, I felt I gained better stabilization and traction control from the subframe collars than the FSTB.
I'd like to be able to say Nissan increased the stiffness of the frame and front end to reduce the amount of flex corrected by installing a FSTB. But I fear I'd be giving Nissan too much credit.
I concede I may be wrong, this is only my impression having done no research, only experience working on
this car versus my 3rd gen.
I am guessing here, but it seems to me the main reason the FSTB does almost nothing on the 5/5.5 is due to how seperated and isolated the front suspension components are. I mean, comparatively, I felt I gained better stabilization and traction control from the subframe collars than the FSTB.
I'd like to be able to say Nissan increased the stiffness of the frame and front end to reduce the amount of flex corrected by installing a FSTB. But I fear I'd be giving Nissan too much credit.
I concede I may be wrong, this is only my impression having done no research, only experience working on
this car versus my 3rd gen.
get this bar, cheap and looks better too, definitely worth buying even if it is just for looks!!
http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...a00087921.html
http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...a00087921.html
so I guess if Im am at a red light and it turns green and if I wanted to accelerate through a slight sharper turn, it might give me better control?
hmm I guess its not worth the $40 price tag, if its only for "looks"
But I wonder if I should keep my 03 maxmia se stock
so far its stock.
Im just a college student, so I dont have much funds to make cool mods.
hmm I guess its not worth the $40 price tag, if its only for "looks"
But I wonder if I should keep my 03 maxmia se stock
so far its stock.Im just a college student, so I dont have much funds to make cool mods.
lol, I just checked my history and apparently I started a tread about strut bars already hahaha.. back a couple months
so apparently both the front and rear one is needed before you can really notice the performance change??
so apparently both the front and rear one is needed before you can really notice the performance change??
The RSB (rear sway bar), on the other hand...
If you want to spend a little money on a bolt-on that makes a significant difference to your stock SE, this is where you go. Best bang for your buck under $200.But if your 9 year old car is truly stock with original equipment, I'd recommend replacing front end suspension parts before modifying. End-links, ball-joins, tie-rod ends, bushings, bearings, and whatever else is likely worn out after all these years. Find a good, trusted mechanic and look towards making your car fit before upgrading it.
That's it. I'm done.
Last edited by Rochester; Aug 4, 2012 at 10:45 AM.
I would go with a rear before front. I own a cattman rear swaybar and I really like it. I defiantly felt a difference with my suspension. They're $139, the installation was pretty easy, about 30 mins.
http://www.cattman.com/prod_swaybars.html
http://www.cattman.com/prod_swaybars.html
Last edited by MaxinO2; Aug 4, 2012 at 09:14 PM.
Rear one? You won't notice squat with a RSTB (rear strut tower brace) unless you've already tightened up the suspension as much as possible, which you haven't. And even then, it's very minimal. Besides, the only manufacturer of a RSTB for the 5th Gen Maxima is Stillen, and it's hardly worth $200, no matter what you've done to your car.
The RSB (rear sway bar), on the other hand...
If you want to spend a little money on a bolt-on that makes a significant difference to your stock SE, this is where you go. Best bang for your buck under $200.
But if your 9 year old car is truly stock with original equipment, I'd recommend replacing front end suspension parts before modifying. End-links, ball-joins, tie-rod ends, bushings, bearings, and whatever else is likely worn out after all these years. Find a good, trusted mechanic and look towards making your car fit before upgrading it.
That's it. I'm done.

The RSB (rear sway bar), on the other hand...
If you want to spend a little money on a bolt-on that makes a significant difference to your stock SE, this is where you go. Best bang for your buck under $200.But if your 9 year old car is truly stock with original equipment, I'd recommend replacing front end suspension parts before modifying. End-links, ball-joins, tie-rod ends, bushings, bearings, and whatever else is likely worn out after all these years. Find a good, trusted mechanic and look towards making your car fit before upgrading it.
That's it. I'm done.
Nice find, Fish. Are you going to pick this up?
Here's a picture of my old Max's trunk, where the Stillen RSTB was mounted through the lining to the top of the strut towers.

Now here's a picture from the ebay sale. And IDK where the thing is actually mounted. Without connecting the strut towers, I'm a little suspect of its actual effectiveness. But not-an-engineer, so I'm pulling these opinions out of thin air.

I'm curious about the results. Buy it and bump this thread after the install.
Last edited by Rochester; Aug 6, 2012 at 08:37 AM.
The top mount points look similar to the location of the 6th gen bar someone produced. I wonder if there are mount holes behind there? For starters, that bar is not bolt on because you'd have to drill holes into the trunk for the bottom 2 mounts. I'm trying to get in contact with the company to see if they can send pictures of the bar and dimensions.
This should be more than enough to get the job done....http://www.ultraracing.com.my/Bars.asp?ID=4021
Ultra racing makes a seriously good product. Go on the website you will probably get a quicker response there and they have some neat videos of products for other platforms. It is surprising to me Ultra racing is a new name to somebody but being that they are not cheap I guess it makes sense lol
I would go with a rear before front. I own a cattman rear swaybar and I really like it. I defiantly felt a difference with my suspension. They're $139, the installation was pretty easy, about 30 mins.
http://www.cattman.com/prod_swaybars.html
http://www.cattman.com/prod_swaybars.html
Do NOT buy from Toys_Auto on eBay, the user sells parts that are cheap, but don't even fit correctly.
The FSTB looks like it was commissioned out to a 6th grade shop class - crappy welds that don't even fully cover the joins, with bolt holes that aren't even properly aligned. I wanna drive that thing out to Cali to crack him over the head with it
The FSTB looks like it was commissioned out to a 6th grade shop class - crappy welds that don't even fully cover the joins, with bolt holes that aren't even properly aligned. I wanna drive that thing out to Cali to crack him over the head with it
Do NOT buy from Toys_Auto on eBay, the user sells parts that are cheap, but don't even fit correctly.
The FSTB looks like it was commissioned out to a 6th grade shop class - crappy welds that don't even fully cover the joins, with bolt holes that aren't even properly aligned. I wanna drive that thing out to Cali to crack him over the head with it
The FSTB looks like it was commissioned out to a 6th grade shop class - crappy welds that don't even fully cover the joins, with bolt holes that aren't even properly aligned. I wanna drive that thing out to Cali to crack him over the head with it

Last edited by nishfish871; Aug 8, 2012 at 06:18 AM.
Hey i just got a stut bar from ebay for my 2000 gle for $40
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...-/230862716587
real solid bar, mine has a full ring and 3 holes for the bolts but im ify on how to install it. do i have to jack it up, what exactly is the nut size, and is there anything else i should know
the bar didnt come with any instruction so im a little lost
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2003-NI...-/230862716587
real solid bar, mine has a full ring and 3 holes for the bolts but im ify on how to install it. do i have to jack it up, what exactly is the nut size, and is there anything else i should know
the bar didnt come with any instruction so im a little lost
No. Please don't do that. I'm sure if you think about it for a moment, you'll realize why.Here, go read Stillen's installation instructions. It's not rocket science.
http://www.stillen.com/prodfiles/307035~inst.pdf
Last edited by Rochester; Dec 8, 2012 at 04:37 AM.
I got a strut bar on my 01 SE, and to my understanding what it does is brace the frame in the front and stop it from letting the body roll in a very sharp turn, and instead it holds the grip until it is forced to slide. The change won't be noticeable until you take some very sharp turns, I wouldn't skimp on a strut bar either, because it, with a rear sway bar and some nice tires, and you would be taking sharp turns at like 45-50 mph without barely squeaking a tire (trust me I know), while without these things you'd be going about 25 or so through a turn and notice some body roll probably screeching tires. Get a nice one like a stillen, or a nismo or something.
Actually, a higher quality strut bar would be lighter then say an ebay one, made of more durable material, and engineered better too. So it would be lighter and stronger, plus have all its physics and geometry and what not figured for maximum performance, if you can help it, don't skimp out on one.
^^ lol...i have 2 and don't use either. Never will I approach those limits and I would never want to in a maxima. Great looks and drivetrain but the maxi ain't a handler in my eyes so putting unnecessary suspension upgrades is silly. Struts/springs or c/o is enough for this car imo and maybe an rsb, that is all
^^ lol...i have 2 and don't use either. Never will I approach those limits and I would never want to in a maxima. Great looks and drivetrain but the maxi ain't a handler in my eyes so putting unnecessary suspension upgrades is silly. Struts/springs or c/o is enough for this car imo and maybe an rsb, that is all
Once you put CO's on a 5th Gen, all the other small, incremental suspension mods are completely overshadowed.
sry maxima lol i know... i love the car but i'm not gonna be like an apple fanboy. still gotta get my suspension on and maybe i'll be less harsh
i wish i had saved another 300 for c/o but s-tech and illumina will do (yes i heard the stories of 'suck-techs') and its more than i can ask for on a student budget. i'll see how it rides on 225/50-17 5.5 te wheels in the spring but till then i'ma be rolling outta my seat in turns on my stock 17 y/o setup
Actually, a higher quality strut bar would be lighter then say an ebay one, made of more durable material, and engineered better too. So it would be lighter and stronger, plus have all its physics and geometry and what not figured for maximum performance, if you can help it, don't skimp out on one.
In response to your post LazYRaCeR, I'm going to re-post Prophecy's post:
There's no geometry magic happening here really. The only thing that really matters is the thickness and material used. A cheap one may tend to bow more than a well built one.
You will NEVER, EVER< EVER< EVER notice the difference between a $40 Ebay one, and a $200 Nismo one while driving, EVER.
The only time you will EVER know the difference is when you open the hood and look at it.
However, you will notice a slight change in a very particular handling characteristic with and without the FSTB...
...unless you have CO's. In which case, get the FSTB just for the bling.



