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Are you replacing more than just one? If that one bolt is rusted/broken then expect more than just that one to break on their way out. Is your oil pan itself ok?
Bolts are around $12 each I believe, straight from Nissan...someone please correct me because that'll add up with all the bolts that are needed.
I'm about to replace my lower oil pan myself but I'll be looking for comparable bolts from Home Depot instead to replace the ones I extract. I'll subscribe to this thread for possible bolt info.
The bolts don't screw into the pan itself, they go through it. So if just the head broke off like mine did, after you take the pan off you can take a pair of pliers and grab the nub and unscrew it like that. If it's snapped flush I'm not sure what to do.. I would be hesitant to drill it out and retap it given the nature of what we're talking about. Perhaps someone else can chime in on what to do in that case.
Are they the lower oil pan bolts or the upper oil pan bolts?
If its the lower oil pan bolts just buy a upper oil pan. If its the upper oil pan bolts then you might wanna retap them or just put a lot of rtv sealant lol
Taking the old one off you don't have to worry about stressing the pan and bending it but make sure you use a good pattern when putting the new one on. Im sure you know that but I wanted to remind those that didn't because it is important to avoid leaks/ruining a good pan
Following on with this thread, I also have an issue with a couple of bolts that are stripped. While I can tap and re thread, has anyone heard of using a smaller bolt with a spring thread that is inserted into the bolt holes? This spring thread acts like new threads I would imagine. My dad and I were talking about this option vs tapping and re threading. Wondering if this would work. Thoughts?
Following on with this thread, I also have an issue with a couple of bolts that are stripped. While I can tap and re thread, has anyone heard of using a smaller bolt with a spring thread that is inserted into the bolt holes? This spring thread acts like new threads I would imagine. My dad and I were talking about this option vs tapping and re threading. Wondering if this would work. Thoughts?
You're talking about a Heli-coil. (brand name)
*You still have to drill out the hole with a specific oversize bit.
*You tap the hole with an oversize tap.
*Screw in the "spring" which becomes the new proper sized threads.
You end up with new steel threads in the original size. No special or different sized bolts.
They're sold in kits which include the coils, proper tap, coil insertion tool and sometimes a drill bit. There's a kit for each thread size. If it doesn't include a drill bit it'll tell you which one to use.
The tricky part here is extracting the broken bolt. That's a talent all in itself.
If you don't want to do the extraction you could drill and tap a hole next to it and drill a new hole in the pan. Use a good RTV like Permatex black or Hondabond and it'll be fine. There's no gasket used there.
The bolts can be found for cheap. well under $1 each. Just take one up to a local parts supply or industrial parts supply place and get them in stainless. They're a very common thread and there's nothing special about them. Forget Ni$$an. They want the moon for everything they sell.
We have a place here called IPS (industrial parts supply) where I could get all of them in high grade stainless for a few dollars total.
Last edited by Derrick2k2SE; 10-04-2017 at 09:11 AM.
I'd get a reverse drill bit and a small punch. I'd punch a ding in the center then drill a hole in the center almost through. Then you can get a few extractor bits then torque the he'll out of it. The trick is getting enough torque behind the extractor bit.
Check out the "Time Sert" alternative on Amazon.
The trick to extracting the broken bolt is the center punching it directly in the center. If your off to one side, then it's likely the extractor will contact the threads of the hole and it will drag against them. Bolts that were cross threaded will NEVER extract. Cut to the chase, and oversize for a Time-Sert. Time Serts are awesome. I think they're only for aluminum though, I was successful on a thin piece of steel stamped steel once, but the tapping was time taking, had to go in and back out so many times to ensure the tap wasn't going to break. I've had nothing but headaches from heli-coils. Even with perfect form on a milling machine, it's suspect. Good luck.
The trick to extracting the broken bolt is the center punching it directly in the center. If your off to one side, then it's likely the extractor will contact the threads of the hole and it will drag against them. Bolts that were cross threaded will NEVER extract. Cut to the chase, and oversize for a Time-Sert. Time Serts are awesome. I think they're only for aluminum though, I was successful on a thin piece of steel stamped steel once, but the tapping was time taking, had to go in and back out so many times to ensure the tap wasn't going to break. I've had nothing but headaches from heli-coils. Even with perfect form on a milling machine, it's suspect. Good luck.
That's strange. I've done more Heli-coils than I can count and it's always worked. All with a hand drill and tap and usually in an odd location on a car.
I've used Time-certs and Keencerts but only when the hole is too far gone to cut the thread for a Heli-coil.
There may not be enough meat to use a Time-cert on the oil pan bolts. It's been a while since I had one apart.
If anyone's interested I have some pics from the last extraction I did. It's a large bolt on a Mercedes. It was in there strong enough to snap the head off.
I wasn't able to bullseye it due to the hard to reach location so it cut into the threads a little requiring a Heli-coil.
Here's the bolt already center punched.
Here it is center drilled. I tried working up in bit sizes hoping it would come out with an extractor but it laughed a every one. The LAST thing you want to do is break an extractor off in a bolt. You'll never drill through the hardened steel.
Here's the hole. The bolt wouldn't budge till I cut through the threads. Sometimes that happens, especially with large or long bolts. This one was in well over an inch. You can see the damage on the bottom.
Skipped a few steps with the camera but here's the Heli-coil installed and better than new. The pics were just to show the customer why their bill went up another $100 and not to record the exact process.
When it's a broken bolt I try to get it out! This is the why welding equipment can come in handy. You can weld a new head on it.
Re-thread is ok. I can't see any reason why drilling it out then re-threading it isn't acceptable.
When it's a broken bolt I try to get it out! This is the why welding equipment can come in handy. You can weld a new head on it.
Re-thread is ok. I can't see any reason why drilling it out then re-threading it isn't acceptable.
How many times have you done that? Given your history here I'm guessing zero.
Good luck making a weld that's stronger than the original bolt that broke.
I was in similar position with lower oil pan and bolts rusted. Luckily my mechanic was able to remove all the bolts without sheering them off. Found this on ebay as replacement:
How many times have you done that? Given your history here I'm guessing zero.
Good luck making a weld that's stronger than the original bolt that broke.
A welded bolt head doesn't need to be as strong as the bolt, but enough to get it out. Overcoming rust is not the same as tensile and shear strength of a bolt
A welded bolt head doesn't need to be as strong as the bolt, but enough to get it out. Overcoming rust is not the same as tensile and shear strength of a bolt
Sure, if the head breaks because it's weakened by rust it may work. That's if you can get in there to put a good weld on it. Even then it's hit or miss.
He was talking about "broken" bolts where the head is sheared off. If a non rusted bolt breaks it's not coming out by tacking a new head on it.
Sure, if the head breaks because it's weakened by rust it may work. That's if you can get in there to put a good weld on it. Even then it's hit or miss.
He was talking about "broken" bolts where the head is sheared off. If a non rusted bolt breaks it's not coming out by tacking a new head on it.
Sure, if the head breaks because it's weakened by rust it may work. That's if you can get in there to put a good weld on it. Even then it's hit or miss.
He was talking about "broken" bolts where the head is sheared off. If a non rusted bolt breaks it's not coming out by tacking a new head on it.
Well $%&# I hope this doesn't happen to me I have to do the gasket on my 2001 and it's been sitting for 2 years.You would think with all the oil going loose down on my pan it's nice and lubed up. Wish me luck maybe I'll be back if I need help with stuck bolts.
So I went to tackle this seemingly simple job today and found that there is one bolt that is harder to reach with a reg 10 mm set up. The 10 mm socket goes on okay but the rest of the ratchet won't line up. I am thinking a thin walled 10mm deep might work but not sure. I tried for a bit to get it out on an angle but it kept slipping so I stopped trying before it got stripped ugh!
I watched some videos and never saw this pipe in the way on any of them. thought about trying to drop that pipe but it looks like a ridiculous detour and decided not to. by the looks of this pan I think I need to replace that too, it's lip is gone in some spots
A 1/4" drive socket might fit better than a 3/8" drive.
If you have to you could grind a bit of the seam off the exhaust pipe.
I've had this off on my 00 and my 02 and don't remember it being hard to get at the bolts.
Also, use some really good RTV like Permatex Black or Hondabond and let it set overnight before refilling it with oil. Don't go cheap on the RTV. There's no gasket there.
Last edited by Derrick2k2SE; 10-17-2017 at 04:37 PM.
Hey thanks for the reply guys I got it in finally. I ended up using a 3/8 but it as such a *****. You know 1/10 turn at a time. and tht pipe had no give at all I tried lol I was just so glad because dropping that pipe was a non starter. I used a gasket and a small bed on the pan. I am a little worried because the rtv isn't bulging out all over just some spots. My bead was neat and consistent though so I'm confident. A little nervous on the torque as I don't have a torque wrench but my kid told me the old school way and I remembered about how tight they were coming off (not very) so I used that as a guide. Thanks again so much for the help!
08-13-2012, 12:56 PM
