Another name that noise thread! Hooray! This time its Brake Related...
#1
Another name that noise thread! Hooray! This time its Brake Related...
Facts:
2000 SE Auto 185K. Brake pads and rotors with about 10000 miles on them. Wearever Ceramics all around, Wearever rotors all around. My E-brake does NOTHING at all. One day I released it and heard a loud pop and it hasn't been working since then.
I have tried adjusting it and that hasn't helped. I can easily turn the rear wheels with or without the ebrake engaged(there is literally no difference in resistance when its engaged.
Calipers have not been replaced since I have owned the vehicle and I am sure they have never been replaced. Stopping power is great though, so no issue there, I just don't want my rear brakes wearing out faster than they should and I can't stand brake dust
Problem:
Lately I have notice a lot more brake dust on my rear wheels than normal. So, I jacked up the rear and recorded both sides. You will have to turn your volume up to hear the noise but its pretty clear the pads are rubbing the rotors. The problem is that I don't know if its my calipers, ebrake issue, or warped rotors.
The first video Driver Side Rear. It only rubs at one spot on the rotor(which is why I was thinking its warped) I felt the rotors and they are smooth as butter(better be with less than 10K on them).
The first Video is the
The second video is the Passenger Side Rear. It a continuous rub the entire time I am turning the wheel. I don't know how to embed so I am just providing a direct link via photobucket.
Solution:
I came to the org for this part. If someone knows what the issue is right off the bat, please let me know so I can correct it. If someone knows where I can find the simplest way to isolate the problematic component, please let me know. If you need a better sound clip...Please let me know hahaha. I will try again to get one.
Thanks for all useful info in advance.
2000 SE Auto 185K. Brake pads and rotors with about 10000 miles on them. Wearever Ceramics all around, Wearever rotors all around. My E-brake does NOTHING at all. One day I released it and heard a loud pop and it hasn't been working since then.
I have tried adjusting it and that hasn't helped. I can easily turn the rear wheels with or without the ebrake engaged(there is literally no difference in resistance when its engaged.
Calipers have not been replaced since I have owned the vehicle and I am sure they have never been replaced. Stopping power is great though, so no issue there, I just don't want my rear brakes wearing out faster than they should and I can't stand brake dust
Problem:
Lately I have notice a lot more brake dust on my rear wheels than normal. So, I jacked up the rear and recorded both sides. You will have to turn your volume up to hear the noise but its pretty clear the pads are rubbing the rotors. The problem is that I don't know if its my calipers, ebrake issue, or warped rotors.
The first video Driver Side Rear. It only rubs at one spot on the rotor(which is why I was thinking its warped) I felt the rotors and they are smooth as butter(better be with less than 10K on them).
The first Video is the
The second video is the Passenger Side Rear. It a continuous rub the entire time I am turning the wheel. I don't know how to embed so I am just providing a direct link via photobucket.
Solution:
I came to the org for this part. If someone knows what the issue is right off the bat, please let me know so I can correct it. If someone knows where I can find the simplest way to isolate the problematic component, please let me know. If you need a better sound clip...Please let me know hahaha. I will try again to get one.
Thanks for all useful info in advance.
Last edited by BigLou55; 08-25-2012 at 05:14 PM.
#2
It sounds like your rear calipers have finally gave out on you. I dont believe your gonna feel much stopping power from your rear brakes while driving, your front brakes do most of the work.
But with the build up of dust, and the constant grinding it sound like what happened is the rear calipers are not retracting properly
I just had to do rear brakes on mine, the sliders were completely seized and the piston seals were toast, and I had the same rubbing sound. That was at 125000 miles
But with the build up of dust, and the constant grinding it sound like what happened is the rear calipers are not retracting properly
I just had to do rear brakes on mine, the sliders were completely seized and the piston seals were toast, and I had the same rubbing sound. That was at 125000 miles
#4
sounds like a bent dust plate to me, but pull the brakes off and look for fresh metal where anything may be making contact. also, i havent looked at my maxima yet but i assume the e brake is a cable and the pop u heard was it breaking. if it is broken, it may have released a slight preload the e brake had. but hard to say without getting a good look in there.
#5
tsk tsk tsk...
sounds like a bent dust plate to me, but pull the brakes off and look for fresh metal where anything may be making contact. also, i havent looked at my maxima yet but i assume the e brake is a cable and the pop u heard was it breaking. if it is broken, it may have released a slight preload the e brake had. but hard to say without getting a good look in there.
sounds like a bent dust plate to me, but pull the brakes off and look for fresh metal where anything may be making contact. also, i havent looked at my maxima yet but i assume the e brake is a cable and the pop u heard was it breaking. if it is broken, it may have released a slight preload the e brake had. but hard to say without getting a good look in there.
#6
A thorough inspection is necessary. These sounds and what you notice as wear will be readily apparent in the inspection.
Two separate issues with the ebrake and increase of brake dust. The ebrake is a cable and I believe there is a spring on one end. I doubt the cable itself broke/snapped, but rather the spring or some other part like a bolt which are easy fixes.
The brake dust is rubbing which can be caused by what was mentioned earlier.
Two separate issues with the ebrake and increase of brake dust. The ebrake is a cable and I believe there is a spring on one end. I doubt the cable itself broke/snapped, but rather the spring or some other part like a bolt which are easy fixes.
The brake dust is rubbing which can be caused by what was mentioned earlier.
#7
quoting a previous post of mine makes no sense here lol, I didn't ask for a detailed discussion from a rocket scientist(I could have "googled" that). However, thanks for your suggestion, it is much appreciated.. Ill be taking a thorough look in there next weekend when I have more free time.
#8
btw definitely not FROM atl, good to know your actually searching threads now.
You can stop polluting my thread now, do it elsewhere. Thanks
#9
A thorough inspection is necessary. These sounds and what you notice as wear will be readily apparent in the inspection.
Two separate issues with the ebrake and increase of brake dust. The ebrake is a cable and I believe there is a spring on one end. I doubt the cable itself broke/snapped, but rather the spring or some other part like a bolt which are easy fixes.
The brake dust is rubbing which can be caused by what was mentioned earlier.
Two separate issues with the ebrake and increase of brake dust. The ebrake is a cable and I believe there is a spring on one end. I doubt the cable itself broke/snapped, but rather the spring or some other part like a bolt which are easy fixes.
The brake dust is rubbing which can be caused by what was mentioned earlier.
#10
lol, see what i mean... smh, its not that im searching threads, its just i have precats not in use, i see a thread that someone needs them in atl, but then i realize it was just u. and dont dare use the word "educated" when ur asking what a brake rubbing noise is but you still have the gd wheels on the car.
fwiw, i came here to offer help, and instead of laughing like the rest of us, you continue the arguement. not my intentions, i wont be back. GL getting more help with ur chit attitude, champ
fwiw, i came here to offer help, and instead of laughing like the rest of us, you continue the arguement. not my intentions, i wont be back. GL getting more help with ur chit attitude, champ
#11
lol, see what i mean... smh, its not that im searching threads, its just i have precats not in use, i see a thread that someone needs them in atl, but then i realize it was just u. and dont dare use the word "educated" when ur asking what a brake rubbing noise is but you still have the gd wheels on the car.
fwiw, i came here to offer help, and instead of laughing like the rest of us, you continue the arguement. not my intentions, i wont be back. GL getting more help with ur chit attitude, champ
fwiw, i came here to offer help, and instead of laughing like the rest of us, you continue the arguement. not my intentions, i wont be back. GL getting more help with ur chit attitude, champ
The wheels on the car lol, read a thread in its entirety before you comment please. You may have came to offer help but you won't let that old thread go for some reason. tsk tsk tsk, stop living in the past.
Well everyone that has offered a suggestion didn't think I had an attitude...just you. Thanks for not returning
#12
UPDATE: Had a chance to take a deeper look at my rear brake setup and it turns out I need to get a new set of rear calipers. All other components looked to be in good shape but the calipers are in pretty bad shape. Being they are seized I'm almost certain that it could be related to my parking break issue as well. I will update again once I get the funds to get a set of calipers.
#13
UPDATE: I decided to just rebuild my rear calipers because the cost difference and the easiness was too good to pass up. One of my calipers was so bad(the piston turned but did not move in or out) I had to get one from the scrapyard for about 10 bucks. Went to rockauto.com and purchase 2 rebuild kits for $2.30 each(made by dorman). Got some brake fluid(get a big bottle cause you have to bleed the rear brakes) and high temp grease as well. I would say each side took about about an hour, mainly because I cleaned the heck out of everything.
What ended up happening was my parking brake cables were locked up and they helped ruin my calipers. In addition to that the gasket that protects the piston failed, allowing water to penetrate. My next goal is to get both new cables by dorman and replace within the next couple weeks(should be fun). My parking brake cables are unplugged for now, but they will be replaced really soon.
As far as rebuilding the calipers it was a piece of cake. The kit comes with all the gaskets but I only used the 3 of the 5 total IIRC. The gasket that protects the piston, the gasket inside the bore(near the top) and the parking brake gasket. I seen no need to disassemble the whole assembly and that was a good call on my part. Its been about 2 or 3 weeks since I have replaced them and I feel a complete difference in stopping power and there are no leaks. Even though the rears only account for about 30% of braking, you can tell a difference when they are actually working vs when they are seized.
If anyone has any question about rebuilding the rears just repost in this thread(share the knowledge with others) and I'll answer them based on my experience.
What ended up happening was my parking brake cables were locked up and they helped ruin my calipers. In addition to that the gasket that protects the piston failed, allowing water to penetrate. My next goal is to get both new cables by dorman and replace within the next couple weeks(should be fun). My parking brake cables are unplugged for now, but they will be replaced really soon.
As far as rebuilding the calipers it was a piece of cake. The kit comes with all the gaskets but I only used the 3 of the 5 total IIRC. The gasket that protects the piston, the gasket inside the bore(near the top) and the parking brake gasket. I seen no need to disassemble the whole assembly and that was a good call on my part. Its been about 2 or 3 weeks since I have replaced them and I feel a complete difference in stopping power and there are no leaks. Even though the rears only account for about 30% of braking, you can tell a difference when they are actually working vs when they are seized.
If anyone has any question about rebuilding the rears just repost in this thread(share the knowledge with others) and I'll answer them based on my experience.
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