Fixed my clutch!
Fixed my clutch!
Folks, I very rarely post on here simply because my car seldom needs something fixed on it. I've owned it since 2007 when it had 88k miles, now with 191k on the clock.
It has always had an issue with the clutch pedal moving around, sometimes hitting the floor and not returning. We all know about the problem.
One day the clutch did this and refused to return. I finally had enough and took a hard look at it's operation. The slave pushrod wasn't even making contact with the clutch lever on the bellhousing, which intrigued me.
First thing I did was bleed/flush the master cylinder. The fluid was junk, a nasty brown color. It still wouldn't return and I wedged my 6' frame under the clutch pedal to do the usual pushrod adjustment, when I had an epiphany...
There are two switches limiting the pedal's travel, one for the start switch and the one at the top (i'm assuming) for cruise release. THIS one was screwed in all the way, probably set at the factory. On a whim I backed this out about 3/4 the way out which increased the slave pushrod's travel exponentially.
Now the clutch pedal has no free travel before it makes contact with the lever, and two weeks later the 'friction zone' has not moved one iota! It remains right in the middle where it should be.
So I hope this helps others seeking to eliminate the friction zone issue our cars have. I will report back in a few weeks after further testing.
It has always had an issue with the clutch pedal moving around, sometimes hitting the floor and not returning. We all know about the problem.
One day the clutch did this and refused to return. I finally had enough and took a hard look at it's operation. The slave pushrod wasn't even making contact with the clutch lever on the bellhousing, which intrigued me.
First thing I did was bleed/flush the master cylinder. The fluid was junk, a nasty brown color. It still wouldn't return and I wedged my 6' frame under the clutch pedal to do the usual pushrod adjustment, when I had an epiphany...
There are two switches limiting the pedal's travel, one for the start switch and the one at the top (i'm assuming) for cruise release. THIS one was screwed in all the way, probably set at the factory. On a whim I backed this out about 3/4 the way out which increased the slave pushrod's travel exponentially.
Now the clutch pedal has no free travel before it makes contact with the lever, and two weeks later the 'friction zone' has not moved one iota! It remains right in the middle where it should be.
So I hope this helps others seeking to eliminate the friction zone issue our cars have. I will report back in a few weeks after further testing.
Here's an update. I wanted to give it a few weeks to be sure.
I discovered the lower clutch hose was leaking from the crimp near the slave cylinder. NAPA had the hose assy and slave for reasonable prices, under $100. Bleeding the system was no joke but not a horrible job. I bench bled the slave first then connected the hose and further bled the slave side. Unfortunately the master ran out and I had to do that side again.
Two weeks later and the 'friction zone' is still in the same place. Bottom line, if your clutch pedal is moving around, it's probably a combination of old fluid, air in the lines and slave cylinder getting old. I don't know if a leaking hose would cause it, but mine lasted 185k miles so something to ponder.
I discovered the lower clutch hose was leaking from the crimp near the slave cylinder. NAPA had the hose assy and slave for reasonable prices, under $100. Bleeding the system was no joke but not a horrible job. I bench bled the slave first then connected the hose and further bled the slave side. Unfortunately the master ran out and I had to do that side again.
Two weeks later and the 'friction zone' is still in the same place. Bottom line, if your clutch pedal is moving around, it's probably a combination of old fluid, air in the lines and slave cylinder getting old. I don't know if a leaking hose would cause it, but mine lasted 185k miles so something to ponder.
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