I am here to fix the Bose Sub problem once and for all.
09-23-2012, 08:55 AM
#1
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I am here to fix the Bose Sub problem once and for all.
Just like the title says. It was such a pain in the *** for me to get my 01 AE figured out, and the information is scattered around the org. I want this to be the place for the 5th Gen sub fix. Not just for one year, but for 00, 01, and 02-03.
The 01 has been pretty well figured, but there isnt really a GOOD HOW to on it yet. I will have that HOW TO Posted by tomorrow.
Here is where I ask for your help. Any 00 owners out there, I know there is a fix where you resolder the contact points, but that only works sometimes and it doesnt address the real problem. As far as I know, there is NO FIX for the 02-03 subs.
I am willing to offer the repair service FOR FREE for the first person willing to send me their 00 Sub, and the first person willing to send me their 02/03 Bose Sub for repair.
I am a Software Engineer who has dabbled quite a bit in hardware over the years. When I first went to college, I majored in Electrical Engineering before switching to Computer Science. I will also be enlisting the help of an Electrical Engineering student named Kraig to help me with anything that might be over my head.
I am confident that I am fully capable of fixing the problem the right way, a definitive fix, instead of a bunch of little hacks that work for some, and not for others.
What do you guys think? At the end of this, I will post a how to for each year, of the REAL fix.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
1: Unplug the battery in your vehicle! Always unplug the battery before working on anything electronic!
2: This guide and guides in this thread are provided for information only. I can only guarantee my own results from performing these mods, and I am providing this information as a service to the org community. There is no warranty expressed or implied on any of the information, and no results are guaranteed.
REMOVING THE SUB DRIVER ASSEMBLY:
Tools:
-Multi-Bit Screwdriver handle or equivalent socket
1: Find the three screws that hold the subdriver assy to the bottom of the sub. Circled in Yellow here: (There is one under the Brown Connector)
2: After removing it, it will be hanging by the spade connectors that connect it to the sub. Remove them (carefully) and note which terminal matches to which color wire.
3: Now the only thing attaching the Sub Driver Assy to the car is the wires going to the brown connector:
4: Disconnect this and the Driver Assy will be free.
REMOVING THE PCB ASSEMBLY:
Tools:
-Philips Screwdriver
-Small Flathead
1: Remove the 4 screws circled in yellow that attach the PCB Assembly to the plastic housing.
It should look like this:
2: With the small flathead, first gently pry the pressure contacts on the left and right side in the direction indicated by the arrow. Then, gently pry the front away from the box and up in the direction indicated by the arrow. The box top will hinge up, and can be completely removed (it might take some wiggling on the back to get it to come completely off).
And now you have this:
3: Pry the little tab circled in yellow OUT and away from the circuit board. There is one on the other side as well. Then, remove the circuit board from the metal box:
And now you have this:
The 01 has been pretty well figured, but there isnt really a GOOD HOW to on it yet. I will have that HOW TO Posted by tomorrow.
Here is where I ask for your help. Any 00 owners out there, I know there is a fix where you resolder the contact points, but that only works sometimes and it doesnt address the real problem. As far as I know, there is NO FIX for the 02-03 subs.
I am willing to offer the repair service FOR FREE for the first person willing to send me their 00 Sub, and the first person willing to send me their 02/03 Bose Sub for repair.
I am a Software Engineer who has dabbled quite a bit in hardware over the years. When I first went to college, I majored in Electrical Engineering before switching to Computer Science. I will also be enlisting the help of an Electrical Engineering student named Kraig to help me with anything that might be over my head.
I am confident that I am fully capable of fixing the problem the right way, a definitive fix, instead of a bunch of little hacks that work for some, and not for others.
What do you guys think? At the end of this, I will post a how to for each year, of the REAL fix.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
1: Unplug the battery in your vehicle! Always unplug the battery before working on anything electronic!
2: This guide and guides in this thread are provided for information only. I can only guarantee my own results from performing these mods, and I am providing this information as a service to the org community. There is no warranty expressed or implied on any of the information, and no results are guaranteed.
REMOVING THE SUB DRIVER ASSEMBLY:
Tools:
-Multi-Bit Screwdriver handle or equivalent socket
1: Find the three screws that hold the subdriver assy to the bottom of the sub. Circled in Yellow here: (There is one under the Brown Connector)
2: After removing it, it will be hanging by the spade connectors that connect it to the sub. Remove them (carefully) and note which terminal matches to which color wire.
3: Now the only thing attaching the Sub Driver Assy to the car is the wires going to the brown connector:
4: Disconnect this and the Driver Assy will be free.
REMOVING THE PCB ASSEMBLY:
Tools:
-Philips Screwdriver
-Small Flathead
1: Remove the 4 screws circled in yellow that attach the PCB Assembly to the plastic housing.
It should look like this:
2: With the small flathead, first gently pry the pressure contacts on the left and right side in the direction indicated by the arrow. Then, gently pry the front away from the box and up in the direction indicated by the arrow. The box top will hinge up, and can be completely removed (it might take some wiggling on the back to get it to come completely off).
And now you have this:
3: Pry the little tab circled in yellow OUT and away from the circuit board. There is one on the other side as well. Then, remove the circuit board from the metal box:
And now you have this:
Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 09-24-2012 at 07:48 AM.
09-23-2012, 08:55 AM
#3
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2001 Maxima BOSE Subwoofer Fix
REMOVE THE OLD RELAY:
Tools:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-DeSoldering Braid
Take your time on this, patience is a virtue! Here we go:
1: We want to remove the relay circled in yellow here:
So, flip the circuit board over and locate the 5 terminals circled in yellow direcly under the relay (they are the only ones with metal sticking through the holes in that area).
2: This is the procedure for this: Heat the soldering iron (30W) up and tin the tip well. Then, push the desoldering braid onto the contact of the relay. It will heat up and suck some of the solder out, and probably move the contact because you have to push a little hard.
WARNING: Whatever you do, pull the braid and iron off at the same time. If the braid sticks to the board, and you rip it off, the solder point on the board will probably come off and you will be screwed.
Work around all 4 sides nice and slow, dont keep the hot iron/braid on for more than about two seconds. Most likely, you will be left with a little bit of solder keeping the relay on, and you wont be able to pull it off the board. Thats OK. Just take the iron/braid and with the tip of the iron, push the braid into the hole in the board. This should get the last bit of solder out. Then wiggle the relay back and forth until you get it out. (Pry GENTLY with a flat blade underneath the relay if necessary).
You should end up with this:
READ THE FIRST POST AND POST #5 BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY MODIFICATIONS
THE FREE FIX:
Now that you have removed the relay, take a piece of wire and push it through the two holes shown in this picture (This corresponds to the COM terminal and NO terminal on the Relay). Solder this wire in place from both sides, and enjoy your subwoofer, fixed right! It should look like this:
THE RIGHT FIX: REPLACING THE RELAY:
Replacing the relay is easy enough once you have the old relay out.
1: Be sure to get all the solder out of the holes with the desoldering braid.
2: Insert the new relay, and flip the circuit board over. Solder the new relay in place:
And now you should have this:
And put it back together:
Tools:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-DeSoldering Braid
Take your time on this, patience is a virtue! Here we go:
1: We want to remove the relay circled in yellow here:
So, flip the circuit board over and locate the 5 terminals circled in yellow direcly under the relay (they are the only ones with metal sticking through the holes in that area).
2: This is the procedure for this: Heat the soldering iron (30W) up and tin the tip well. Then, push the desoldering braid onto the contact of the relay. It will heat up and suck some of the solder out, and probably move the contact because you have to push a little hard.
WARNING: Whatever you do, pull the braid and iron off at the same time. If the braid sticks to the board, and you rip it off, the solder point on the board will probably come off and you will be screwed.
Work around all 4 sides nice and slow, dont keep the hot iron/braid on for more than about two seconds. Most likely, you will be left with a little bit of solder keeping the relay on, and you wont be able to pull it off the board. Thats OK. Just take the iron/braid and with the tip of the iron, push the braid into the hole in the board. This should get the last bit of solder out. Then wiggle the relay back and forth until you get it out. (Pry GENTLY with a flat blade underneath the relay if necessary).
You should end up with this:
READ THE FIRST POST AND POST #5 BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY MODIFICATIONS
THE FREE FIX:
Now that you have removed the relay, take a piece of wire and push it through the two holes shown in this picture (This corresponds to the COM terminal and NO terminal on the Relay). Solder this wire in place from both sides, and enjoy your subwoofer, fixed right! It should look like this:
THE RIGHT FIX: REPLACING THE RELAY:
Replacing the relay is easy enough once you have the old relay out.
1: Be sure to get all the solder out of the holes with the desoldering braid.
2: Insert the new relay, and flip the circuit board over. Solder the new relay in place:
And now you should have this:
And put it back together:
Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 10-06-2012 at 10:57 PM.
09-23-2012, 08:56 AM
#4
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2002/2003 Maxima BOSE Subwoofer Fix
Reserved for 2002/2003 How To
The 2002 Sub is IDENTICAL to the 2001 Sub. Same problem with the same relay, even the same Bose P/N for the PCB.
The 2002 Sub is IDENTICAL to the 2001 Sub. Same problem with the same relay, even the same Bose P/N for the PCB.
Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 10-06-2012 at 10:58 PM.
09-23-2012, 08:56 AM
#5
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Reserved for incidentals! 
Here is the datasheet for the stock NAiS CQ1-12V-H19 Relay:
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...S/CQ1-12V.html
THE RIGHT FIX:
Since the stock NAiS is a CHEAP relay, we will replace it with a quality Panasonic model (available here):
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product..._-na-_-na-_-na
THE FREE FIX:
I don't recommend this fix, but it does work, and doesn't require buying another relay. I recommend doing the replacement relay fix, and fixing it the right way. This method just shorts the circuit out. Chances are, Bose put that relay there for a reason.
Here is a laymen's intro to how relays work:
http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_Relays_Work/
As you can see from the illustration, by connecting the NO connection on the PCB to the COM connection on the PCB. We simulate the relay always connecting NO to COM (Which is what we want).
OTHER INFO:
2001 Fix Thread
2000 Fix Thread
Here is the datasheet for the stock NAiS CQ1-12V-H19 Relay:
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...S/CQ1-12V.html
THE RIGHT FIX:
Since the stock NAiS is a CHEAP relay, we will replace it with a quality Panasonic model (available here):
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product..._-na-_-na-_-na
THE FREE FIX:
I don't recommend this fix, but it does work, and doesn't require buying another relay. I recommend doing the replacement relay fix, and fixing it the right way. This method just shorts the circuit out. Chances are, Bose put that relay there for a reason.
Here is a laymen's intro to how relays work:
http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_Relays_Work/
As you can see from the illustration, by connecting the NO connection on the PCB to the COM connection on the PCB. We simulate the relay always connecting NO to COM (Which is what we want).
OTHER INFO:
2001 Fix Thread
2000 Fix Thread
Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 09-24-2012 at 08:30 AM.
09-23-2012, 08:58 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
When my 00 sub quit working, I simply unplugged that device that goes to the speaker and plugged the wire directly into the sub. It works fine, but the only "drawback" is a little thump when the radio first turns on. Other than that, it works fine. The only complaint I have is the crazy rear deck rattling that goes on.
09-23-2012, 09:03 AM
#7
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When my 00 sub quit working, I simply unplugged that device that goes to the speaker and plugged the wire directly into the sub. It works fine, but the only "drawback" is a little thump when the radio first turns on. Other than that, it works fine. The only complaint I have is the crazy rear deck rattling that goes on.
. Also, that rear deck (seatbelt mounts) rattle is pretty easy to fix:
http://www.shiftice.com/bose_deck_fix.html
And you can get generic dynamat from McMaster Carr: (P/N 9709T39)
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9709T39
Cheers!
09-23-2012, 09:05 AM
#8
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Yeah, the 00 has a nice way to bypass the whole board that causes the problem. I think it would still be nice to identify the problem and fix it the right way though, and for 01-03, that bypass trick doesnt work .
Also, that rear deck (seatbelt mounts) rattle is pretty easy to fix:
http://www.shiftice.com/bose_deck_fix.html
And you can get generic dynamat from McMaster Carr: (P/N 9709T39)
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9709T39
Cheers!
. Also, that rear deck (seatbelt mounts) rattle is pretty easy to fix:
http://www.shiftice.com/bose_deck_fix.html
And you can get generic dynamat from McMaster Carr: (P/N 9709T39)
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9709T39
Cheers!
And it's the seat belt mounts that cause the rattle? Interesting... I'll have to read that thread.
09-23-2012, 10:10 AM
#10
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09-23-2012, 10:23 AM
#11
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Yeah, I guess I should say the Bose Driver Assy, but if you are handy enough to get the circuit board out, that works too. I would prefer the circuit board w/ the metal box that contains it. Its labeled as BOSE, PCB ASSY
09-23-2012, 10:27 AM
#12
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09-23-2012, 12:48 PM
#15
I think my sub (02' Max) is blown so I don't think its repairable. Otherwise I would prob send. My music is real bassy, even with the bass at -3 and -4.. I have CD skipping problems too, blah
09-23-2012, 12:55 PM
#17
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Yeah, as far as it being really bassy, that is probably not a relay issue. This fix is to address to overwhelmingly common problem with the sub just cutting out due to a faulty (cheap) Bose relay.
09-24-2012, 09:57 AM
#18
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Updated 2001 HOW TO (Post #3) with a guide for removing the relay, and performing the "Free Fix". I will update it with the HOW TO on replacing the relay as soon as my relays come in.
09-26-2012, 07:25 PM
#24
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But if you want to send it over for the good of the community that would be awesome. I can still use it for the how-to
09-27-2012, 09:51 AM
#25
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REDJET05 is going to help us all out and send his 02 Sub in for repair. Once I work out the fix I will post the HOW TO for it.
ETA: UPDATE! My Panasonic CQ1-12V Relays Shipped today via UPS Ground. I have 7 of them coming (min order)
ETA: UPDATE! My Panasonic CQ1-12V Relays Shipped today via UPS Ground. I have 7 of them coming (min order)
Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 09-27-2012 at 09:57 AM.
09-28-2012, 12:13 PM
#26
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CaTalyst.X IS THE MAN
thank you CaTalyst.X. YOU ARE THE MAN. went thru your fix and the bose is thumping so loud my *** is bouncing in the front seat. thank you so much.
09-29-2012, 08:57 PM
#27
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thank you CaTalyst.X. YOU ARE THE MAN. went thru your fix and the bose is thumping so loud my *** is bouncing in the front seat. thank you so much.
10-06-2012, 10:59 PM
#28
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Update! I did the fix on two 2002 Sub's today. The 2002 Sub is IDENTICAL to the 2001. Same PCB, Same P/N, same everything. So in short, it is the same problem. That relay needs to be replaced.
I updated the HOW TO for the 2001 and the 2002
I updated the HOW TO for the 2001 and the 2002
10-07-2012, 05:06 AM
#29
And you can get generic dynamat from McMaster Carr: (P/N 9709T39)
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9709T39
Thanks
10-09-2012, 05:59 PM
#30
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The Aluminum Mastic is basically the same thing as Dynamat Extreme.
I have never seen foam dynamat. I mean the mastic sheets have some cush to them but not much.
10-12-2012, 05:15 PM
#33
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Okay, to follow up, I did this today and was super easy. I bought the relay from digikey as mouser was sold out. Part was $9.75 with shipping. We have a soldiering station at my work so I fixed it right up. I now have great bass again. Thanks to the OP on this. It was a great write up!!
11-04-2012, 05:50 PM
#35
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Okay, to follow up, I did this today and was super easy. I bought the relay from digikey as mouser was sold out. Part was $9.75 with shipping. We have a soldiering station at my work so I fixed it right up. I now have great bass again. Thanks to the OP on this. It was a great write up!!
11-04-2012, 05:51 PM
#36
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Oh also, I have 3 relays left over. If anybody wants them, I can sell them for $5 shipped. I bought 7 when I started this, and I want to keep one in case somebody is kind enough to send me their 03 (if it's any different).
12-13-2012, 06:58 PM
#37
If this is like a typical home amplifier, the relay is likely used to prevent turn-on thump, which could bottom the woofer unnecessarily, and most likely, to prevent the voice coil from being fried by full DC current being applied during an amplifier output transistor short.
I wonder how docile or spectacular a voice coil burnout is in this unit, as it has a very high current, rather than a higher voltage winding.
I wonder how docile or spectacular a voice coil burnout is in this unit, as it has a very high current, rather than a higher voltage winding.
06-05-2013, 07:38 PM
#38
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Thank you Sir!!
I just fixed my infiniti's amp using your instructions on the relay to the T. I just wanted to say I appreciate the effort you put into your post and without it I would have thrown that thing in the garbage ( stupid $@(@! Cutting out amp!!!) today. So thank you Sir, for your time in laying down the step by step for those with Bose.
Sincerely,
Eric Schroeder
Sincerely,
Eric Schroeder
11-05-2013, 08:08 AM
#40
Well, old thread got bumped, so here's another detailed How-to for those who want one
http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-y...ay-fix-218790/
http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-y...ay-fix-218790/