When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just completed this task. Thank you for the step by step. It sounds clearer. I have only been running for a few mins, but it normally cuts off by now. Thank you again for taking time to post step by step. Relay 10 bucks, desoldering iron 14 at radioshack with the suction cup.
I have the same board with no relay any help can I still use the jumper ???
QUOTE=Donkeypunch;8871366]Does anyone have the part numbers for these missing components.
My sub has never worked, and now I know why.
it amazes me how they changed the set up in the 5th from the 4th and you guys have all these issues. my stock bose had the infamous "error" message on the screen and then the front and rear speakers blew and i just replaced the whole set up piece by piece with jl's and a single din alpine and now double din touch screen pioneer with all the goodies. never wanted to try and fix the bose stereo cause i figured the age and i like modern equipment with a working cd player and a place to plug the ipod plus satellite. looks like at least you can thump away again with this fix.
it amazes me how they changed the set up in the 5th from the 4th and you guys have all these issues. my stock bose had the infamous "error" message on the screen and then the front and rear speakers blew and i just replaced the whole set up piece by piece with jl's and a single din alpine and now double din touch screen pioneer with all the goodies. never wanted to try and fix the bose stereo cause i figured the age and i like modern equipment with a working cd player and a place to plug the ipod plus satellite. looks like at least you can thump away again with this fix.
+1 this is a brilliant write up, but I also switched to an aftermarket HU a while back and that fixed the cut out problem for me. For less than $100 in some cases, you can get a pretty nice mounting bracket, USB, aux and it really makes the Bose system sing compared to the stock HU. I think I'm going to switch to a line output converter setup soon because the stock amps don't have enough punch using the preamp outputs on the aftermarket HU. Off topic, but thanks again!
Hello. I'm contacting you because I have no idea about my bose pcb assy 100W in my 2003 Infiniti Fx35. The sub woofer keeps coming on and off, I took the car to the audio shop and they advised that I replace the system. But looking at your write up I understand you can help me with repairs. I can't follow the instructions you outlined. .. no idea haha... but I don't mind sending it to your fit repairs even for a fee. ..I cannot afford to replace the system because it's expensive. Please send me your mailing address through my email nibaderrick@yahoo.co.uk, or phone number 9728388691. I'll appreciate it. Thanks, Derrick
I have ben reading up on the many problems these bose systems have. I have a 2000 I30 and have a similar issue with the sub cutting on and off. I have swapped the factory sub but the problem remained so the sub was not the problem. I swapped out the amp and the problem was still there so its not the amp. I don't know what else can be the problem. My only next spot to check might be the relay that is separate from the sub amp on the I30. My HU volume sometimes does not work as well. Anyone have any suggestions where else I can look to try to resolve the issue?
Thank you so much for this thorough guide to getting this fixed. I was able to do it last weekend and its been working perfectly all week! I'd say problem solved!
I have ben reading up on the many problems these bose systems have. I have a 2000 I30 and have a similar issue with the sub cutting on and off. I have swapped the factory sub but the problem remained so the sub was not the problem. I swapped out the amp and the problem was still there so its not the amp. I don't know what else can be the problem. My only next spot to check might be the relay that is separate from the sub amp on the I30. My HU volume sometimes does not work as well. Anyone have any suggestions where else I can look to try to resolve the issue?
There's a separate circuit board before the sub that's wrapped in plastic.
Cut that open and re solder all the joints. That's probably the problem.
I wonder if nissan just did a crap job or maybe that's just the nature of solder?
I wonder if nissan just did a crap job or maybe that's just the nature of solder?
I blame Bose, they're a trusted name in audio equipment and Nissan trusted them to make a quality product for their cars. They did a ****ty job on some basic component connections and now we're dealing with the consequences of that. Luckily we have knowledgeable people on here that take the time to help other people correct these issues.
Best of luck to you bmpnride, I hope you can get it working like it should be.
Follow the wires from the sub. There is a small board that's covered in a plastic sleeve right before the speaker.
Cut that sleeve open and re-solder all the joints.
Fellas I just bought an 03 Max. My sub isn't working. When I put my hand on the bottom of it as music is playing I feel a slight vibration. Talk to me man what is the deal with this. Is this a relay issue as stated above or what? Talk to me.
Fellas I just bought an 03 Max. My sub isn't working. When I put my hand on the bottom of it as music is playing I feel a slight vibration. Talk to me man what is the deal with this. Is this a relay issue as stated above or what? Talk to me.
what else do you need to know? its a common problem... thats it, im fixing mine soon.
Maxima Brothers! I just want to thank you for being a Maxima family and helping one another. Thanks to you guys I was able to fix my sub. It is bumping. But when i listen to the Bose system in comparison to my Infinity speakers and Pioneer radio in my 2000 Max, The Bose sounds like trash. I need to upgrade.
Some of the earlier pics of the 01-03 fix are no longer being hosted so I'm adding this for anyone else who finds this.
This is for the 01-03 where the relay is located inside the subwoofer case.
From inside the trunk.
*unplug the harness going to the sub.
*remove the three 1/4" (not metric) bolts holding the black speaker cover in place.
*unplug the two wires going to the speaker and bring the black cover to a table where you can work on it.
^^
This silver box is inside the black cover.The harness wires are covered in a sticky wrap so you can just peel them off the silver cover. Remove the four Philips screws and remove the cover plate. It has tabs on the sides you may have to pry open.
^^
This is the back of the circuit card inside. You don't need to access the other side. You can see the jumper soldered in place.
^^
Close up of the jumper. Connecting these two points will bypass the crappy relay and bring the sub back on line.
LOL ( at me)
I was wondering why my bass went into over drive when the weather got hot.
After reading this I believe that it simply is not working at all most of the time. I got it new to me (no Kidding it is 16 years old now) and didn't know it was out or rather how much bass it could make...
When my 00 sub quit working, I simply unplugged that device that goes to the speaker and plugged the wire directly into the sub. It works fine, but the only "drawback" is a little thump when the radio first turns on. Other than that, it works fine. The only complaint I have is the crazy rear deck rattling that goes on.
You could damaged your woofer with that extra thump. I wonder if anyone has tried drilling a very small hole in the relay case and then straying some electronic cleaner, assuming the contacts are exposed.
Will this work for a 2000 i30? I have a 00 and 01. I simply wanted to hook up my aftermarket 2 ch amp directly to the factory Bose Subwoofer. All factory stuff is cut and I currently have 2 12's in a humongous box that I would like to get rid of to get my trunk space back. I am also currently have a 4 channel amp for all doors and tweeters in it. Bose Sub and Amp are still in there but never have used them. I bought the car that way.
An aftermarket amplifier will not work properly with Bose speakers. It will overdrive the speakers and cause distortion because of improper impedance matching.
Are the door speakers still Bose? If the head unit (radio) is not Bose, which I tend to think is the case, the door speakers were probably changed out.
There are special adaptors that might be used, but until you tell us what the head unit is and what the door speakers are, we can't give you exact answers.
A little thump is not going to "damage" the stock subwoofer.
Subwoofers are made to thump. lol
Apply voltage to the speaker and it thumps. That's exactly what happens during music playback as well.
I say this with years of experience with the annoying turn-on thump in various car/home audio systems.
A little thump is not going to "damage" the stock subwoofer.
Subwoofers are made to thump. lol
Apply voltage to the speaker and it thumps. That's exactly what happens during music playback as well.
I say this with years of experience with the annoying turn-on thump in various car/home audio systems.
Okay, forget the "thump" and think "pop" caused by a voltage spike. Not the same as being supplied a controlled voltage from an amp.
Sorry for digging up an older post. Years ago, I fixed the amp in my 2003 FX35 with by wedging a snip of fuel line on top of the relay. Well, it's finally started cutting out again so I figured I'd do it right and go ahead and replace the relay. The problem is that the relays that are listed all show discontinued. Any idea of a current relay available? I pull it to check it but really didn't want to leave things apart. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I don't recommend this fix, but it does work, and doesn't require buying another relay. I recommend doing the replacement relay fix, and fixing it the right way. This method just shorts the circuit out. Chances are, Bose put that relay there for a reason.
As you can see from the illustration, by connecting the NO connection on the PCB to the COM connection on the PCB. We simulate the relay always connecting NO to COM (Which is what we want).
Since the existing relay will be trashed has anyone tried to drill a small hole in the plastic relay box and spray some contact cleaner into the relay? I'm assuming the coil is good and perhaps the contacts are in need of a cleaning.
03-01-2014, 08:49 AM
[/QUOTE]
