but you knew that already, didn't you? I changed mine less than a year ago with reman calipers from Autozone and they are already failing again. Are there any OEM rear calipers that will fit the maxima (I don't care if they are more powerful or whether or not they can use the parking brake). There has to be better calipers (maybe even from Nissan) that would fit, right?

 

Its a common issue on 5th gens, I had the same issue recently. 2 frozen rear calipers AND parking brake cables. I spent 32 bucks buying 2 rear calipers from the junk yard and rebuilding kits for each. In the meantime I disconnected the ebrake cables(I plan to go new here soon). If something is going to keep failing I refuse to buy it at a higher cost when I can do it myself(especially if I have the time).

my rear calipers work great now and I can definitely feel a difference when stopping(I think my rear calipers were doing ZERO work before).

 

Rears from the G sedan maybe.

 

No. The rear calipers on our cars are dual function...braking while driving and as a parking brake...which is why we have the spring loader (?terminology) that extends off the back of the caliper to hook up the parking brake cable. Using a different kind of caliper will not be 'plug n play' by any means, and you will lose the oem parking brake functionality...

Maxima


G35

 

^ this is true, there has to be another oem setup with the dual functionality with the e-brake... maybe not

and yeah.. if you think about it, it probably would have been figured out by now , this gen is 12-10 years old.

i am on my 3rd set of rear brake calipers

 

Wilwood makes a parking brake caliper...only $800-1200.

Not researching which one we could use because cost is prohibitive for me.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...%20Brake%20Kit

 

Just replaced the back caliper in my 01 SE last week, I feel your pain.

 

Both of mine have been replaced on my 2002. Is there any maintenance that can be done to keep these things alive? Do the slider pins need to be pulled every six months and greased or something?

I guess my question is...what is the failure mode?

 

on both my rear calipers the rubber gasket that protected the piston failed allowing water to get in an rust the inside. My driver side was so bad I couldn't even turn the piston to get it out of the hole(something had to break in the inside).

 

Same here. Couldnt get either rear piston to budge whatsoever. Sucks. But at least advance auto had $40 off $100! Only paid $110 for two calipers!

 

Ok, so we should be checking the rubber gasket and replacing if cracked then. Is it possible to just buy replacement slider pin rubber boots? I would assume so. I'm going to have my rear tires off in the next month when I put on my snow tires. I was thinking of painting the rear calipers while I'm in there and I'll also check the slider boots and make sure they are in one piece.

 

If your gonna rebuild the calipers just go to rockauto and get the rebuild kit made by dorman, its $2.30 each side(http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php) for the rear. Its what I bought and it works. I did not do a complete rebuild(I seen no need to) I only replaced 3 gaskets(piston gasket(moves with the piston) the bore gaskets(ring inside bore) and the parking break gasket) I used lots of brake fluid and high temp grease when putting everything back together. buy at least 2 to 3 cans of brake parts cleaner(you will need it to clean up everything).

All I used as far as tools was a socket set and grip pliers(to plug the brake line)

 

Excellent information, thanks!

 

！！！I thought it was only mine! Replaced both last year due to a failed slider boot, it was just turned into a solid hard piece in winter and keep the caliper in a closed position, finanlly damaged rotor.

 

I've never had any problems with mine. Daily usage in the past 3 years, I've never touched them

 

Most likely it's due to your climate being so good. Here in the NE we have a lot of rain, salt, snow, etc... which really does a number on our cars.

I just spent 1500 getting a new OEM style catback exhaust, two new calipers, accessory belts and state inspection/emissions done by my mechanic. I picked the car up and the brakes (with brand new calipers) were still frozen to the disk. I can't believe this guy didn't realize it. You can't even use the parking brake it's so stiff. I'm dropping it back tomorrow for them to fix for free. I think it may be time to get rid of this car and move on, it seems to be jinxed or something...

 

Yeah that's true. No snow = No Salt = No Rust and daily 80 degree weather It hardly rains here

 

I just replaced my rears as well. I bought the car and when I went to get it certified here in Canada the right rear was shot. I picked up a pair from one of the guys on the local Max forum but the right rear was shot as well. The left was almost new with nor corrossion so all was good. I ordered a rebuilt from Rock Auto for $50.00 bucks after the core return as here in cCanada that caliper was $145.00 after core return.

The guy from the local forum gave me some rear caliper maintenance tips, lube the hell out of the parking brake mechanism, the slide pins and under the piston boot. Do this twice a year and problems will not happen with them any more.

 

I don't know, my mechanic told me that the brand new caliper was bad and that's why the brakes froze up again, he replaced it and now the brakes are working. We'll see how long that lasts....maybe I'll trade for an old Honda or Toyota with a stick.

 

Here's my issue, I just changed my rear calipers because I discovered that when I jacked up my car I had my the brakes stepped on and found I was still able to rotate the wheel while the brakes were pressed, with resistance of course but the fact is I was still able to spin the wheel slightly. I changed the calipers and brakes and still have the same issue. Is that a master cylinder problem? I bled the whole system. so there is No air in the system. My brakes were awesome before where they were able to stop on a dime when i wanted. HELP!

 

The only things I can think of is maybe A) the caliper piston is somewhat seized or B) there is a very small leak in the caliper itself or the line going to it. Most likely 'A'

How are your fluid levels? All other calipers are fine? Is it both rears or just one?

 

Fluid level is fine(no fluid loss), No air in the system, Rear calipers just changed, system bled and I have a soft pedal just as before I changed the brakes and rear calipers. I am thinking I have a master cylinder that is going bad based on the various posts I have read here in the forum, would just like confirmation on my suspicion before I go spend unnecessary money.

 

Quick update fellas, I changed the master cylinder and bled the system and my Max is back to normal. Yay me! Little side note. I bought a new Cardone master cylinder with reservoir for $65 delivered from Rockauto and while comparing prices around the web, I found the exact model being sold at Advanced Auto Parts for $120 + core. I couldn't believe the difference in price. Just sharing just in case any of you guys have similar issues. Don't want to spend more than you have to.

 

USEThe Ebrake. That's how you stop (slow down) this issue. A little lube every once in a while helps too, but the #1 cause is lack of use.

 

Just passing this along b/c I saw it on FB group


From Joshua Soto
4 piston wiwoods with mounting braket and 6th gen rotors for sale $400 347-769-0661
https://www.facebook.com/groups/183877908331009/

 

4 piston rears?...or 4 piston fronts? This thread is about the OEM rears.

 

link doesn't work. needs facebook login then just takes you to the main group page.

 

It's the My5thgen.org group on FB.

 

yes that's the front.

guess you have to join the group to see anything.

 

guess i lucked out, my calipers lasted the entire 10 years i owned my 2002, although right before i sold it the rotors and pads were gone completely, yet the calipers were ok...

 

Manual?

 

really? of course, you dont recall me posting for years how awesome the hlsd was?