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SECOND: I'm having some intermittent starting issues, where it won't turn over. When I attempt to start it there is a clicking noise, and a buzzing / whirring (though this isn't always there). The clicking is coming from engine bay, and I think it sounds like the solenoid (attempting) to engage. I replaced my battery yesterday, everything else is stock. This morning I attempted to start the car 3 times in a row, successfully each time. This evening, I had the opposite results, though after about 10 attempts it did start.
THIRD: No mods. Replaced the battery 2 days ago as it was a potential culprit and was getting old anyways.
FOURTH: No codes.
Based on the clicking and whirring noise, I think the relay is OK, and it's the starter solenoid that's bad. Any other diagnosis I'm missing? And should I get an OEM starter or a remanufactured?
SECOND: I'm having some intermittent starting issues, where it won't turn over. When I attempt to start it there is a clicking noise, and a buzzing / whirring (though this isn't always there). The clicking is coming from engine bay, and I think it sounds like the solenoid (attempting) to engage. I replaced my battery yesterday, everything else is stock. This morning I attempted to start the car 3 times in a row, successfully each time. This evening, I had the opposite results, though after about 10 attempts it did start.
THIRD: No mods. Replaced the battery 2 days ago as it was a potential culprit and was getting old anyways.
FOURTH: No codes.
Based on the clicking and whirring noise, I think the relay is OK, and it's the starter solenoid that's bad. Any other diagnosis I'm missing? And should I get an OEM starter or a remanufactured?
Replace the starter. No need for OEM, but a reputable one. You can buy a Hitachi/TYC from RockAuto.com for under $100.-.
SECOND: Turn the key, everything lights up, I hear the fuel pump kick on but when I turn the key, the car cranks but will not turn over.
RESENT WORK: Note, these are all items that I replaced prior to my crank but no start issue:
New throttle body (old one was clicking)
New spark plugs (had oil in two (2) of the rear ones)
Replaced one (1) bad coil pack (it came apart when I pulled it out)
New valve cover
New fuel pump and fuel filter
New battery
THIRD: I have a grounding kit, other than that, no mods.
FORTH: Prior to this issue I had a general p0300 random misfire which I assumed was from the bad coil pack that I replaced and the oil in the spark plug tubes.
I have gotten the car to start by using starter fluid but it runs for a few seconds and then stops. So my issue may not be relevant to this thread but I need help. I feel it’s something fuel related.
SECOND: Turn the key, everything lights up, I hear the fuel pump kick on but when I turn the key, the car cranks but will not turn over.
RESENT WORK: Note, these are all items that I replaced prior to my crank but no start issue:
New throttle body (old one was clicking)
New spark plugs (had oil in two (2) of the rear ones)
Replaced one (1) bad coil pack (it came apart when I pulled it out)
New valve cover
New fuel pump and fuel filter
New battery
THIRD: I have a grounding kit, other than that, no mods.
FORTH: Prior to this issue I had a general p0300 random misfire which I assumed was from the bad coil pack that I replaced and the oil in the spark plug tubes.
I have gotten the car to start by using starter fluid but it runs for a few seconds and then stops. So my issue may not be relevant to this thread but I need help. I feel it’s something fuel related.
Thanks for the response.
No security light, and I tried both of my keys. Fuel pump and filter are fine, both brand new.
I read the other threads and it might be my cats. I, like some many others, have to deal with the oil burn issue. My guess is that they are shot.
2003 maxima vq35de 203000 miles
CAI, catback exhaust
no codes, motor had leak, removed trans and fixed rear main seal, reinstalled transmission now car just turns over. this is after complete topend rebuild.
any help would be great.
If the car was starting after the top re-build, then check the flywheel sensor - make sure it is plugged in, the wires aren't damaged, the tip of the sensor isn't damaged.
2003 maxima vq35de 203000 miles
CAI, catback exhaust
no codes, motor had leak, removed trans and fixed rear main seal, reinstalled transmission now car just turns over. this is after complete topend rebuild.
any help would be great.
Check crank sensor for damage and crank sensor wiring.
Also ensure there is a good ground on the transmission, I suggest adding one to be certain
My Maxima left me stranded while out shopping two days ago. Suspected the starter or starter solenoid. I have roadside assistance and the car was flat-bedded back home. Just a minor annoyance.
After reading this thread, I knew.
FIRST: 236,144 miles. Manual trans. Year 2000.
SECOND: I had the battery replaced in June of this year. Since then my starts started becoming erratic. I would describe the starting as "wonky"; sometimes it wouldn't continue cranking and quit while the key was still turned. Other times it just cranked slowly like the battery was dying and still wouldn't turn over. During those non-starting times I held the accelerator down while cranking and it would fire up and sort itself. I've had my ECU and IAC valve replaced within a year, as well as both belts and the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley. Plugs too but nothing to indicate I somehow damaged the starter. Right before it really died, I got a short, weak blip from the starter and then trying again, nothing. All dash lights, dome lights and other powered items functioned normally so it couldn't have been the battery.
THIRD: No relevant modifications to the car. It is stock, perhaps boringly so.
FOURTH: C.E.L for the right bank O2 sensor has been lit for some time. I have been lazy in getting it rectified.
My bro (mechanic) and I jumped straight to the Voltmeter usage in post #2 and it was quickly determined to be a bad starter when I attempted to start it. Now on to the starter search...
Thanks for the extremely useful thread here. It is still serving its purpose.
2002 maxima 6 spd
102,135K
Remote starter but no mods
Car started fine this morning. Stopped at the bank, got back in the car, turned the key and nothing! Engine wouldn't turn over. No clicking noise or anything. I did notice that the radio (aftermarket ) wouldn't come on. The power windows wouldn't work, the sunroof wouldn't open, AC didn't operate & the instrument panel indicators wouldn't light up. Headlights, tail lights and all interior light worked as they should.
My lights come on & battery is fine. Any suggestions??
You could have blown Fuse B that is under the hood. It is an 80 amp fusible link. It is about in the center of the fuse panel, the cover labels it FL80A MAIN 2.
That fuse controls more things than you mentioned, but what you did mention makes it a suspect.
So I want to add onto this thread in hopes that it helps someone. I had a no crank no start issues last night. I swore it was the starter. Went to autozone at 11pm at night. replaced it in the parking lot of a Chinese takeout spot. Still no crank no start. I waited from 1AM to 5AM trying to find a tow truck because my 5.5 is low and no tow truck driver would touch it. Called an Uber, slept for 3 hours, Uber to my car in the morning to take starter to autozone for test. came back...swapped starter again..NO CRANK....THIS ISSUE WAS SOLVED BY 2 or 3 PENNIES!!!
After looking through all the no crank threads, my boy in our Southeast Maxima crew thought to look at the Clutch Switch. The stopper had broken off and it wasn't engaging the switch... a few pennies wrapped with electrical tape in replace of the stopper and the car started RIGHT UP!!
Anyway I hope this adds to helping someone in a similar position. Would have never thought to look at that little stopper, plus it was at night.
I have 2005 Max, 270,00 miles and Auto Transmission.
I replaced the flex plate, 2 Cam Sensor, Crankshaft Sensor, spark plugs, coil packs,valve cover gasket, battery, and alternator. I changed all them and still my car won't crank. I don't know what could be the problem to cause my car not too crank. Need HELP!!!!! Can anyone give me some sound advice.
I have 2005 Max, 270,00 miles and Auto Transmission.
I replaced the flex plate, 2 Cam Sensor, Crankshaft Sensor, spark plugs, coil packs,valve cover gasket, battery, and alternator. I changed all them and still my car won't crank. I don't know what could be the problem to cause my car not too crank. Need HELP!!!!! Can anyone give me some sound advice.
This forum is for the 2000 to 2003 Maximas. Because your car is newer, it has parts and things that we are not familiar with. Post you problem in the 6th generation forum and people familiar with you car will help you.
My 2000 Maxy won't start. It has close to 200 thousand miles, is manual, with a V 6.
Stopped at a store, came out turned key and only the airbag light came on. Dome and door lights work, and alarm light blinks. Guy jumped me but no help. All fuses looked good, battery replaced month ago, and mass censer a week ago. Battery cables are tight.
Nothing coming on, when key is turned, all dash lights stay off, the clock does come on nor the odometer.
My 2000 Maxy won't start. It has close to 200 thousand miles, is manual, with a V 6.
Stopped at a store, came out turned key and only the airbag light came on. Dome and door lights work, and alarm light blinks. Guy jumped me but no help. All fuses looked good, battery replaced month ago, and mass censer a week ago. Battery cables are tight.
Nothing coming on, when key is turned, all dash lights stay off, the clock does come on nor the odometer.
Please do not post the same problem in more than one thread.
Aftermarket air filter, aftermarket steering wheel (racing style, read: no Airbag/wheel controls, ect.), clearly used to have a wing/spoiler on the trunk
Bought the car a couple months ago, $500, clearly was someone's racing rig that has seen better days (e brake is nearly pulled out of it's socket). She's always had the problem of stalling out when braking or at idle (which I think I've deduced the problem: there's no ****ing PCV valve, but I digress). This means I start the car a lot, sometimes 5 or 6 times in a trip.
About two weeks ago, she stalled out and wouldn't crank. All dashboard lights on came on, radio on, but nothing else except a clicking like the ones described many times here. After running process of elimination (not the tests described here) I deduced the starter was bad. Went to pick n pull, found a starter in an Infiniti (don't remember which model) that was the same. The starter appeared brand new, still shiny with the label intact. Installed it on the Maxima with no problems, voila she started no problem.
Last night I ran out of fuel on the freeway. Managed to coast to the shoulder, walked out (pain in the ***) and came back with a Jerry can of gas. Same thing, no crank, no start, dash lights on, radio on. Should note: the beeper was going off for no reason every time the driver door was opened, keys in ignition or no, lights on or no. Since it was by then full dark we left again, intending to return at first light.
Could that seemingly new starter have died in just two weeks, even with numerous starts per trip? Is there something else? I've seen a few tips here I intend to try, but welcome advice.
The door beeping every time you open the door is unusual, but I don't see how that would cause your no-start problem. There is a switch built into the ignition tumblers to sense when the key has been inserted. To test this, the next time the door chime is always going off, try to lock the doors. The car is designed to not allow you to lock the doors with the key in the ignition.
As for the no starting problem, you need to follow the troubleshooting process at the beginning of this thread. One additional thing to check that is not in this thread is checking the battery cable for corrosion where the wire goes into the connector
My car has a starting problem. I am just starting to tackle the issue.
First: 170,836 mileage, auto, 2003 maxima Second: On 3/8/20, starter cranks over for 3 seconds, the gave up. Did not turn over. The I turn off the key , and try again.
Starter cranks over like normal, but no start.
Wait 5 minutes. The car fired up.
3/29/20
Turn key. I hear a metallic kink. I try key again and car start
3-30-20
Turn key. No sound
Turn key. Starter cranks over like normal, but no fire.
Wait two minutes. Turn key and car starts
3-31-20
Turn key. No clink. No start.
After 3x tries. Car starts.
4-3-20
Turn key. Only hear a clink.
Turn key again. Only hear a clink
Try 5x times,, and no go.
You have a **** list of codes, but I don't think any of them are playing a part in the starting problem.
P0328 - knock sensor. Always shows up when the engine doesn't run properly.
P0430 - the pre cat on bank 2 (by radiator) is bad.
P0455 - EVAP control system leak. This happens when you have P1448 code.
P1448 - EVAP canister vent control valve not working. Replace it.
P1614 - chip in key not detected. Happens when non-registered key is used, or you have other keys on key ring or you are constantly inserting & removing key.
Your problem may be a bad ignition switch. What you want to do is tap into the starter solenoid trigger wire at the starter and see if you are getting 12 volts when you turn the key to the START position. Try it and let us know.
The voltage was roughly 12.3 .volts. When the key tuned, the voltage at the trigger wire dropped to ll.8 volts. After a couple more turns of the key, dude says flat out you need to replace that starter. I had to agree, because that klink sound is annoying.
The voltage was roughly 12.3 .volts. When the key tuned, the voltage at the trigger wire dropped to ll.8 volts. After a couple more turns of the key, dude says flat out you need to replace that starter.
2004 maxima SL, battery keeps dying and when the car is on lights and everything work, just rpm spikes a little bit I think that’s a different problem... Was wondering what wire this is
Hey guys, thanks for posting all this advice so far. I recently bought a 1996 maxima and thought it would be an easy fix. Just needed a clutch. Well I replaced the clutch and now I'm having a problem with the starter.
I'm somewhat sure this problem is related to grounds because I did not sand the trans and engine block surface. I can take them apart and sand but I've added grounds so I'm not sure that's the problem. Ive gone to the junk yard and grabbed a new negative wire, replaced the terminal on that with a new one and then changed the engine bolt ground position to be next to the motor mount and under the starter. I bought this car used and originally the ground was bolted beneath one of the battery tray bolts so I thought that was the stock location until I went to the junk yard.
The second ground I have I added to the top bolt of the starter on the outside, this goes to the negative battery terminal.
The third ground I have I added to the the top bolt of the starter between the trans and starter, this goes to the stock engine ground location by the head.
The 4th ground I have I added to the other side of the starter near the 17mm bolt, I couldn't fit it around the bolt so I just placed it between the two casing and tightened down.
I was really hoping that it would at least crank the engine or something with 4 grounds that are all 4 AWG, but nothing even with all the grounds. Is there something else I should check? I'm really scratching my head here.
If I test with a multimeter I get 12v at the trigger wire on the harness side. but if I try to get a reading from the trigger solder point on the starter I only get 6v. I just got a new starter yesterday and I have one from the junk yard so I don't think it's the starter.
I'm seriously at a loss right not I don't want to take the tranny off again sand it and put it back together just for it still not to start. I was under the impression the added grounds would make up for the no sanding. I don't have any voltage on my block or starter casing so I'm not it's the ground anymore, are there any sensors that would cause a click only? I'm assuming if the harness side puts out 12v I can write off the ignition switch inside the steering wheel? And hopefully the other relays.
Hey guys, thanks for posting all this advice so far. I recently bought a 1996 maxima and thought it would be an easy fix. Just needed a clutch. Well I replaced the clutch and now I'm having a problem with the starter.
If I test with a multimeter I get 12v at the trigger wire on the harness side. but if I try to get a reading from the trigger solder point on the starter I only get 6v. I just got a new starter yesterday and I have one from the junk yard so I don't think it's the starter.
That's low. There should be ~ 11V on the starter. Just trace the voltage backwards from the starter, along this path Battery --> 40 amp fuse C --> Ignition Switch --> Inhibitor Relay --> Starter Solenoid
and find out where it's being lost..
That's low. There should be ~ 11V on the starter. Just trace the voltage backwards from the starter, along this path Battery --> 40 amp fuse C --> Ignition Switch --> Inhibitor Relay --> Starter Solenoid
and find out where it's being lost..
yeah unfortunately it it seems like this thread has a lot more information and should be the same starter? I’m pretty adaptable with information. Seems like the starter itself is fine tho. It gets 12v if I plug into the harness end of the terminal but not at the starter. If I crank the car with positive on the starter live and then negative on the starter “ground” or post that goes to the motor It goes to .5 voltage so that tells me the starter itself is good. It also doesn’t crank if I jump the trigger or the ground from the live. I think it’s due to grounding/resistance because there’s no reason the wire should drop voltage that much. It’s a brand new starter. Gonna drop the trans again and sand I guess gonna try to without spilling any trans oil tho by not disconnecting the axles fully and just letting it rest on the input shaft while I sand. We’ll see what happens
Well I took apart everything as best I could. Had to drain the trans fluid and ended up breaking the plastic housing for the reverse sensor... oh well. Gonna order one of those now and put it back together and see what happens. Hope for the best.
Well, took apart the trans without taking everything back off and sanded it as best I could. Put it back together and my starter “click” is less than before. I tried testing at the starter trigger again and the highest I got was 10v, more like 6-8v usually when cranking. I tried jumping the starter with jumpers and one from the battery negative to the starter. The other positive to the trigger wire. I even then it did not turn over or even crank. Just clicked and sparked. Could this be anything other than bad ground? My understanding is if I’m applying 12v straight to the trigger and nothing is happening it still can’t complete the circuit. Even with a ground on the back of the starter solenoid? I’m honestly going crazy cause I bought this car for a cheap flip and it’s turned into taking the engine apart 3 times now...
Well guys, taking apart the car again, its been 6 months but I still haven't got it running. Lets hope sanding the bell housing does it. I hate finding old forum posts with no update so I will update this post once I have results.
Well guys, taking apart the car again, its been 6 months but I still haven't got it running. Lets hope sanding the bell housing does it. I hate finding old forum posts with no update so I will update this post once I have results.
Sooo I did a quick read here. Not sure if I got the facts straight.
Sooo I did a quick read here. Not sure if I got the facts straight.
Does the motor even turn?
Are you sure the starter is good?
Are you sure the battery is good?
Yeah the motor turns, I have 2/3 starters that are good, and at least 2 good batteries. The batteries can start other cars no problem. Based on my trouble shooting I can't think of anything else it would be. Starter works out of the car, won't trigger in car. Get 12v to trigger wire when disconnected, 2-3v when connected. I'm not an electrical genius by any means but I'm pretty sure that signifies there's a problem in the electrical system. Since I'm getting 12v at the trigger normally I don't think it's a safety switch. I'll update tomorrow when I get the trans back on, got it off today and gonna go get some sand paper tomorrow after work.
The other thing I noticed is I couldn't find a post about someone sanding the trans, and still having the problem. I found a lot of people with the problem and then either fixed by jumper wire or sanding trans. Some people don't seem to fix their problem with the wire, but I don't see anyone who sanded and is still having issues. I understand not everyone comes back and posts the resolution, but I was actively looking for a post like that to see if I could think of anything else before removing the trans. As you can probably tell from my first couple posts I really didn't want to remove the trans haha.
Last edited by Brett Rolf; 07-08-2021 at 09:07 PM.
Sanding is dumb. Total waste of time. Factory grounds are sufficient. Ensure proper contact points. I didn't read any other post from this thread besides #75. You only have 6 posts, so you weren't really involved in this thread. Pull codes and go from there. Best of luck.
Sanding is dumb. Total waste of time. Factory grounds are sufficient. Ensure proper contact points. I didn't read any other post from this thread besides #75. You only have 6 posts, so you weren't really involved in this thread. Pull codes and go from there. Best of luck.
you probably missed this but I have a 5spd lsd trans from a i30, car ran when bought, I swap the transfer and it won’t start. After dropping again while it looks clean-ish I can tell that there’s some residue on the casing. I tried adding multiple grounds, from trans to body ground, from trans to engine, from engine to body, from trans to body at another place, legit like 5 grounds. My thing is, if the factory grounds were sufficient why do all the starters work in a test environment but as soon as I put in car they don’t... I’ll update you once I put the trans back in today to see if that fixes it. I did some normal diagnostics (running codes) before this and tried to rule everything out before dropping the trans again, but if it’s firing 12v to trigger wire that tells me the firing process is good.
The threads of all the trans fasteners bolt to the block, creating a ground circuit. Sanding has no purpose. I'm a little confused by your process, but if you bench test the starter and it works, and you have 12v at the starter harness connector when you turn the key, your starter will turn, which you already said it does in the first sentence of post #75, so I'm not even really sure what your problem is.
Hey fellas, long time lurker. 1st post. I've got a 2008 maxima cvt 3.5, that I can't get to turn over with the key. Put motor in it about 2 months ago, and I can't get it to turn over with the key to save my life. I believed it to be a pnp switch problem, but testing directly at the trans with pins on connector ,( car disconnected ) tested good.
when I was connected to the car though, and testing at tcm connector, seemed like I was getting a problem showing in pnp switch 3.
I finally gave up and took It to a shop. He's got the Nissan scanner, and he keeps telling me the transmission is reporting it's in drive, although the shifter and all associated stuff shows the correct gear at the correct time.
After beating our heads on the wall for a while, realized the only connection electronically is on the cvt valve body, so I dropped pan and changed that switch as well from another valve body. Anddddd mechanic gave up today, that didn't solve it either. We tried different tcm, he stated that the ground that gets supplied by tcm to ipdm is grounding like it should when it clears the start to go. I'm at a loss here, is there anywhere else that or any way that the trans can report a gear status to the car except through the 4 pnp switches?
Wth am I missing ?
Hey fellas, long time lurker. 1st post. I've got a 2008 maxima cvt 3.5, that I can't get to turn over with the key. Put motor in it about 2 months ago, and I can't get it to turn over with the key to save my life. I believed it to be a pnp switch problem, but testing directly at the trans with pins on connector ,( car disconnected ) tested good. when I was connected to the car though, and testing at tcm connector, seemed like I was getting a problem showing in pnp switch 3. I finally gave up and took It to a shop. He's got the Nissan scanner, and he keeps telling me the transmission is reporting it's in drive, although the shifter and all associated stuff shows the correct gear at the correct time. After beating our heads on the wall for a while, realized the only connection electronically is on the cvt valve body, so I dropped pan and changed that switch as well from another valve body. Anddddd mechanic gave up today, that didn't solve it either. We tried different tcm, he stated that the ground that gets supplied by tcm to ipdm is grounding like it should when it clears the start to go. I'm at a loss here, is there anywhere else that or any way that the trans can report a gear status to the car except through the 4 pnp switches? Wth am I missing ?
12-08-2014, 08:47 AM
