Hey Everyone, I just finished replacing my plugs and found oil residue in a couple of the tubes and one tube with oil pooling in it. I can see oil collected on the outside of the plug tube up to the rim, with some pooling down into the tube. This is good because I've been wanting to hunt down why my car is using so much oil but bad because a mechanic changed the valve cover gaskets about 2 years ago because of the oil leak.

So I'm trying to decide how to proceed. It seems to me like I need to re-replace the valve cover gaskets and replace the spark plug seals. Is that correct? The car (03) has 130k on it and hasn't seen much for maintenance besides oil changes. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?

I also noticed there is an oily residue in the air manifolds. Is this normal? The whole engine has oil residue on it but it is wettish on the left side of the valve covers, apparently where a tube goes between the two. What is this tube and can I replace it or its seals?

I've got tomorrow set aside to keep working on this. I have another car to drive so I'm more focused on doing everything right than trying to get it back together. Thanks in advance for the help and sorry for piling all of the problems into one post. I added a couple of pictures for reference.

Thanks!

 

Yes, you do need to replace the seals for the spark plugs and re-do the covers. While you are in there why don't you change your PCV valve and also check that small piece of hose that runs from the front to the rear valve cover. Sometimes with the years and the heat those get really hard and eventually crack and break.

 

Also a tip, replace your valve covers with the 04 valve covers as there much cheaper and usually solve the problem oil in the spark plug tube. Did mine couple months ago I had to replace both valve covers. Make sure you use all new seals.

 

exactly this , I had your issue OP and I changed my seals this summer with the 04 stuff

 

Thanks for the quick and helpful responses! Is the valve cover something I have to get direct from Nissan? I don't suppose there's anywhere I can get it locally on a Sunday?

 

Likely not. But since you have the '03, ask for the '04 valve cover (and gasket) like everyone above said and save yourself $100. Exact same cover. Trust us, we've been there. Dirty little filthy game Nissan is playing with parts & prices. They KNOW the problem exists in 02/03 VQs and charge you for THEIR mistake. Also get the proper silicone seal for the gasket if you don't already have it, there are two places on the top of the valve case where you need to put two dabs in the crimp area for proper oil seal. Also, tighten in the proper sequence when you put the cover on and don't over torque, if you crack it, you're buying another. You'll be lucky if Nissan has it in stock to start with, it's usually a 2 day order where I'm at (I installed 2, one on an '02 GLE and one on an '03 SE).

 

I honestly would tell you to order it directly from courtesyparts.com, because usually if you go to the dealer and ask them for a part 9 out of 10 times they ask you for the vin # and the part your asking for will be under the 04 maxima not an 03 regardless if it fits perfect. I ordered my parts from DaveB at the time but he is no longer working at Nissan.

 

I always say I need a part for a 2000 Maxima and they search for it. The only time they ask for a VIN is because of part differences within the 2000 year.

All the OP has to do is go to the dealer and say, "I need valve covers and plug seals for a 2004 Maxima".

 

Thanks, I ordered the 04 valve covers and gaskets from everythingnissan.com

All the parts were cheaper and shipping was way cheaper. Now I'm going to clean my cabin air filter and my bike and see what else I can find to work on while my car is disassembled. Any suggestions? This car hasn't seen any love for the past 80k miles.

Everyone on here has been extremely helpful. I should have joined and started maintaining my car a few years earlier.

 

Suggestions? How much do you want to spend? Give the tranny and cooling system some love with a good professional flush/fill. As long as you're flushing the coolant, throw a set of new hoses on before they fill. Belts? They good or all frayed and starting to slip? I always focused on the stuff that suffered extreme heat or constant motion wear. It's all a question of money. Spend it now or spend it later, usually later is more expensive. Maintaining an older car in top condition is usually always cheaper than buying a new car. The only reason I got rid of my 03 for a 12 was I had an offer in front of me I couldn't refuse. I got a new Maxima for $22,000 (Limited Edition). Prioritize and start ticking them off the list as you can afford it.

 

I have the same leak(s) on my '03. Most of you mention switching to the '04 valve covers, v.c. gaskets and plug seals. Is there any difference in the covers? I guess my real question to avoid confusion is: Can I replace my gaskets and spark plug seals with the '04 version and just use my '03 valve covers? As far as I'm aware my covers are not damaged. It's not a newbie question btw, as you can see I'm a "Junior Member" now! Hahaha! Any help is appreciated.

 

the entire cover is replaceable, you get it directly from Nissan and its cheap. you have to get the 2004 version of this cover AND the gasket, this version fixes the problem in the 2002 and 2003 versions where cylinder # 5 usually leaks.
forget about rebuilding ur cover, replace it, finished.

 

Thank you, DjHack! This is on my Winter "To-Do" list which continues to grow. Luckily my Pops has an 18x30 garage I can go play in when it's nasty out!

 

The valve covers are better on the 6th gen, so just buy them and put them in. I wish a had a nice, big garage to play in

 

IIRC the spark plug tube seals are already molded in the 04 valve covers so once you order that you have your tube seals.

 

This is correct. I would say order

1) 04 front and rear valve covers( spark plug seal already molded into the covers)
2) Both valve cover gaskets
3) Upper intake manifold gasket
4) Maybe some RTV

 

Lucky! I have to open the garage door and push my car part way out so there's room to work. I can't open my doors all the way because they will hit the walls. I'm excited I have this garage instead of doing it in the street!

 

Hahaha, It's not always that way. Normally there's a 1970 Mustang in there being "restored." He finally finished it up (after 12 years) and sent it out to his buddy's paint shop. Since it's a friend helping a friend he's taking his time and saving my Pops some money. I just have to get my stuff done before it's finished.

 

How did this turn out for you? i have the same problem except i took mine to a shop but on top of all those problems i have a leak on the rear main seal, the pre-cat needs to be changed and the car may need a ground kit cause i get in then drive for a bit....next thing i know i get out and the first thing i touch that's metal i get shocked. I'm starting to think i should retire the max and instead invest my dollars in something new like a vw passat maybe

 

^those are all common maxima issues. Fix them and enjoy the ride. I got a passat 6 months ago. Its up for sale. Nuff said.

 

i gotta do this soon. my front VC leaks at a couple spark plug tubes and on the front of the head.

 

What year is that passat you have? I was thinking more like a 2012 for me

 

2004 passat. Took me a day to take out the alternator. Mechanic wanted $800 to replace. Thats what I get for buying a vw

 

A 04 and 2012 are different in lots of ways but the one consistent thing I've heard is that they are really difficult to work on but i'm torn. I'm at a point in my life where i can't deal with these sorts of problems i need reliability not common issues. i think in a different time i would be able to fix everything and get it how i want but right now i just don't know....i feel like i need a fresh start

 

Any 2012 car under warranty should give you reliability. If the money is worth it to you then do it. And yes they are a pain to work on. They have a "service position" which requires removal of the front parts of the car so you can pull it out 6-8 inches and (barely) fit your hands in. Not hard just inconvenient.

 

Do you think mechanic's charge more just for that inconvenience?

 

When the alernator went bad (which it turns out was not true) he wanted $350 for the part and $400 for labor. Yeah they charge more haha. This was for the v6. The 4 cyl turbo ould have been easier from what I read. I avoided the turbo because I wanted one less headache to worry about.

But you are thinking a out a 2012 vehicle with years of warranty services.

 

You keep mentioning warrantied services.....i guessing it would smart to get rid of it once the warranty runs out or try to extend it

$400 for labor to fix that is nuts

 

Valve cover gasket change takes maybe 2 hours tops. It's simple, straight forward, as long as it's done right you'll probably never have to do it again for a long time. I don't understand how anyone can pay $400 for someone else to do it.

I suppose most people don't know better.

 

It will take more than two hours for both valve covers. Especially, if you have not removed your intake manifold before.

People give a lot of false time information on maintenance activities. Pretty much, boost their estimate by 33% to 50% to get the reality.

 

I replaced my valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets on my VQ30 in about 2 hours. That's with very little experience. Mostly before I'd only done brake pads, oil changes and other simple stuff. Not sure if the time difference is different on the VQ35 or not. I don't think the intake manifold on the 3.5 has the stupid coolant pass through hose that the 3.0 does. Takes a minute to fiddle that thing outta place.

 

When I took off my dads intake manifold to get to the valve cover seals it took about 4 hours. I was not working for speed and this was the first time I had worked on a 5th gen before. Im sure some can do it quicker but $400 is not outrageous. Most have an hour minimum and then about $60/hr that works out pretty close especially if part are included. Ive heard of those 5th gen tubes going and not being a good design. Something like that

 

from getting in to getting out 2 hours is quick. I have taken my 30 manifold off numerous times and being tall I cant bend over for that long under then hood. Its not difficult it is just tedious and plus I have spacers I have to scrape and RTV each time.

 

Got to agree for the most part!

 

First time for me it took about 4 hours and I did not work for time. All I am saying is most people on here will tell you it will take about XXX time, when in reality, for more people, it will take XXX + 33% to 50% to complete their first time. Unless they really want to rush something...why would they?

I know this from experience when I work on areas the first time and comparing to what people have said on here from how long it takes them or should take.

For example, I recall someone saying the starter takes 15 minutes. Oh really? I suppose that person has no intake, or an SRI intake setup that is not in the way of their starter. They must also have all the tools ready to go and the new starter sitting on top of their engine.

My point...anytime you start new work that you haven't done before multiply the estimates on here by 50% and you won't be pressing yourself for time. Better to overestimate than underestimate and put yourself in a bind if you were hoping to get on the road sooner than later.

 

If you are talking about the $400 in labor I mentioned then you missed the part where I was talking about the alternator in an 04 Passat.

And it took me over 4 hours to do my VC on the maxima. The first time I have done any job I almost always double the expected time.

 

I mention warranties because you brought up buying a 2012 vehicle. Whether or not that is smart is up for debate. As is when you should sell it. I would agrue that buying a cheap car and keeping it until it blows up is smart. I see buying a car as a LOSING investment, period. The less you spend, the less you lose. The longer you keep one car the longer that investment lasts. So I find the maxima, this website, basic tools and some dedication as the perfect combination (or investment) of comfort, driver happiness, reliability and cost effctiveness for my lifestyle.

 

Very unique outlook makes since.

 

+1
I paid cash for my Maxima. Whenever I have to put money into her to keep her running, I figure that's just the price of not having a car payment. Since I don't have to pay $350 bucks a month on a loan I have saved $4200 each year I keep my car running. Even if the engine blows and I have to sink two grand into her to keep her going, I'm still in the green. I've been thinking about opening a "car payment" savings account. Put a monthly payment in there just like I'm paying off a car. Every time the car needs fixed I can take money out of it. When I get enough in the account for a newer Maxima () I can go buy one. Although honestly, isn't the 5.5 gen Maxima the best there is?!?

 

Yup...

My wife and I have three vehicles and all of them are 10+ years old originally owned by us (less my motorcycle). We spend about $1500 to $2000 a year in maintenance and repairs for all three. Not bad considering the amount one would pay in monthly payments on newer cars.

Don't forget...older cars cost less to insure and register as well so there is additional savings, or less cost, to maintain.