looking to change motor mounts.. questions
10-15-2012, 09:43 AM
#1
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Posts: 28
looking to change motor mounts.. questions
Ok so i have posted about this vibration i have been having before so i think i am gonna change the motor mounts. Vibration happens at 20 or so and most noteable when getting in the gas even at 15 percent. The vibration is in the butt meaning it feels like the whole car shakes and a wheel is loose. Checked everything, tightened everything and cant find the problem. My front mount has a tear in it not that bad but maybe it is casuing the problem as i cant find anything else.
What im wondering is i have an 03 AT. I know i cant use the ES bushings in the front as the AT mounts are bigger than the MT. SO i was thinking of buying a MT mount for the front and swapping in the ES bushing.
Will the ES bushing fit in the firewall side mount of an AT model.
If i get the MT mount for the front and install the ES bushing in do i need anything else or is that all that is needed? I have the subframe bushings ordered already so i can do those when the subframe is out.
Would i need to replace the end sides (tranny mount and pass side mount) or do those not get as worn as the front and back?
Forgot to mention.. i know the front has an elctrical line going to it and i will rip that out of the stock front bushing and leave it plugged in after the install, but was wondering does the rear have a plug too or is that just a mounnt and no plug and wires to it?
What im wondering is i have an 03 AT. I know i cant use the ES bushings in the front as the AT mounts are bigger than the MT. SO i was thinking of buying a MT mount for the front and swapping in the ES bushing.
Will the ES bushing fit in the firewall side mount of an AT model.
If i get the MT mount for the front and install the ES bushing in do i need anything else or is that all that is needed? I have the subframe bushings ordered already so i can do those when the subframe is out.
Would i need to replace the end sides (tranny mount and pass side mount) or do those not get as worn as the front and back?
Forgot to mention.. i know the front has an elctrical line going to it and i will rip that out of the stock front bushing and leave it plugged in after the install, but was wondering does the rear have a plug too or is that just a mounnt and no plug and wires to it?
Last edited by jeff5447; 10-15-2012 at 09:52 AM.
10-15-2012, 11:09 AM
#3
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Ok so i have posted about this vibration i have been having before so i think i am gonna change the motor mounts. Vibration happens at 20 or so and most noteable when getting in the gas even at 15 percent. The vibration is in the butt meaning it feels like the whole car shakes and a wheel is loose. Checked everything, tightened everything and cant find the problem. My front mount has a tear in it not that bad but maybe it is casuing the problem as i cant find anything else.
My car had similar symptoms due to worn motor mounts, so I think you're on the right track. New torque mounts and front (passenger side) mounts greatly improved the situation.
What im wondering is i have an 03 AT. I know i cant use the ES bushings in the front as the AT mounts are bigger than the MT. SO i was thinking of buying a MT mount for the front and swapping in the ES bushing.
Will the ES bushing fit in the firewall side mount of an AT model.
I believe you will have the same sizing issue for the rear torque mount as well, ie the insert won't fit the AT mount.
If i get the MT mount for the front and install the ES bushing in do i need anything else or is that all that is needed?
That's all you need.
I have the subframe bushings ordered already so i can do those when the subframe is out.
Good for you. If I was doing it again I'd probably try metal washers as others have suggested, since I didn't notice any difference with the ES subframe bushings. I might suggest however that you either replace the subframe mounting bolts or get a washer with correct ID as the mounting bolt has an integrated washer that is supposed to rotate freely. In my case it was corroded in place, and I trashed the front ES bushings when I reinstalled the subframe as the washer, instead of being independant of the bolt and it's tightening, ended up rotating as I tightened the bolt and it chewed up the bushings. PS- you'd never know the washer was supposed to spin freely if it's corroded.
Would i need to replace the end sides (tranny mount and pass side mount) or do those not get as worn as the front and back?
You can be reasonably sure that if one or both of your torque mounts are worn, that the front (passenger side) mount is also worn. I'd buy a set of EBay motor mounts and change all of them- in fact I feel it should be standard maintenance to change motor mounts on the Maxima if it hasn't already been done previously.
Forgot to mention.. i know the front has an elctrical line going to it and i will rip that out of the stock front bushing and leave it plugged in after the install, but was wondering does the rear have a plug too or is that just a mounnt and no plug and wires to it?
I seem to recall that only the front AT mount is electrical (edit- wrong, both are electrical), and you're changing the front mount anyway right? In any case, don't rip anything out of your stock mount, just disconnect it.
Last thing- you also can fill/firm up/repair your motor mounts (if they're not completely trashed) with 3M Window Weld urethane, or with outdoor high adhesion silicone (both come in a caulking tube). I decided to give the silicone a try this summer because I was curious if it would work- it's cheaper than the 3M WW, readily available, and much thicker so not nearly as messy to apply. It's held up very nicely so far for me.
My car had similar symptoms due to worn motor mounts, so I think you're on the right track. New torque mounts and front (passenger side) mounts greatly improved the situation.
What im wondering is i have an 03 AT. I know i cant use the ES bushings in the front as the AT mounts are bigger than the MT. SO i was thinking of buying a MT mount for the front and swapping in the ES bushing.
Will the ES bushing fit in the firewall side mount of an AT model.
I believe you will have the same sizing issue for the rear torque mount as well, ie the insert won't fit the AT mount.
If i get the MT mount for the front and install the ES bushing in do i need anything else or is that all that is needed?
That's all you need.
I have the subframe bushings ordered already so i can do those when the subframe is out.
Good for you. If I was doing it again I'd probably try metal washers as others have suggested, since I didn't notice any difference with the ES subframe bushings. I might suggest however that you either replace the subframe mounting bolts or get a washer with correct ID as the mounting bolt has an integrated washer that is supposed to rotate freely. In my case it was corroded in place, and I trashed the front ES bushings when I reinstalled the subframe as the washer, instead of being independant of the bolt and it's tightening, ended up rotating as I tightened the bolt and it chewed up the bushings. PS- you'd never know the washer was supposed to spin freely if it's corroded.
Would i need to replace the end sides (tranny mount and pass side mount) or do those not get as worn as the front and back?
You can be reasonably sure that if one or both of your torque mounts are worn, that the front (passenger side) mount is also worn. I'd buy a set of EBay motor mounts and change all of them- in fact I feel it should be standard maintenance to change motor mounts on the Maxima if it hasn't already been done previously.
Forgot to mention.. i know the front has an elctrical line going to it and i will rip that out of the stock front bushing and leave it plugged in after the install, but was wondering does the rear have a plug too or is that just a mounnt and no plug and wires to it?
I seem to recall that only the front AT mount is electrical (edit- wrong, both are electrical), and you're changing the front mount anyway right? In any case, don't rip anything out of your stock mount, just disconnect it.
Last thing- you also can fill/firm up/repair your motor mounts (if they're not completely trashed) with 3M Window Weld urethane, or with outdoor high adhesion silicone (both come in a caulking tube). I decided to give the silicone a try this summer because I was curious if it would work- it's cheaper than the 3M WW, readily available, and much thicker so not nearly as messy to apply. It's held up very nicely so far for me.
Last edited by StevieB; 10-15-2012 at 11:16 AM.
10-15-2012, 11:52 AM
#4
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Ok so i would buy these 2 mounts
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Then buy the ES bushing and install them.
So thats all i would need..?
Also yes the SF bolts are rotted. Already took them out to look athe bushing and i didnt know the sleeve rotated. Can i buy them at a nissan dealership?
Also if i just bought the mounts and didnt do the ES bushings that wouldnt be a bad thing would it.
Ive done my upgrading of performance and stuff but if it will give a better ride i will but i dont need to do them ..right?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Then buy the ES bushing and install them.
So thats all i would need..?
Also yes the SF bolts are rotted. Already took them out to look athe bushing and i didnt know the sleeve rotated. Can i buy them at a nissan dealership?
Also if i just bought the mounts and didnt do the ES bushings that wouldnt be a bad thing would it.
Ive done my upgrading of performance and stuff but if it will give a better ride i will but i dont need to do them ..right?
10-15-2012, 05:55 PM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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ok i found these mounts on ebay for 93 bucks. all 4. From the part number they are the same on Rockauto. These are correct/ should work, right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Maxima...291cce&vxp=mtr
Instead of ES bushings ill just do the 3m trick. Read up on it and that sounds pretty good as well as cheap.
Actually was curious on this. Instead of buying new bushings could i just fill my current ones with the WW and let it sit for 24 hours and see if that works or would getting the ebay one and WW it be better?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Maxima...291cce&vxp=mtr
Instead of ES bushings ill just do the 3m trick. Read up on it and that sounds pretty good as well as cheap.
Actually was curious on this. Instead of buying new bushings could i just fill my current ones with the WW and let it sit for 24 hours and see if that works or would getting the ebay one and WW it be better?
Last edited by jeff5447; 10-15-2012 at 06:02 PM.
10-15-2012, 08:40 PM
#9
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Yes, you fill in the voids with the window weld or silicone. If you use the window weld you'll have to remove the mounts and let the stuff harden as it's quite liquid, but the silicone I used was quite thick and didn't run so I believe I could have filled the mounts without removing them (the torque mounts anyway).In either case I'd suggest you let the stuff cure for at least 24 hours- the window weld will harden faster than the silicone. When I mentioned the idea of filling your mounts I was actually suggesting you might be able to do it to your existing mounts, if they are still relatively intact and the center metal tube the mounting bolt fits through is still holding in the correct position. The advantage if you buy EBay ones is you just swap them with your existing mounts and have no down time while you remove and let the WW harden. You could always determine at that point if they're salvageable by filling.
And re your previous question, yes, you can get the subframe bolts from a Nissan dealership, they're not very expensive.
And re your previous question, yes, you can get the subframe bolts from a Nissan dealership, they're not very expensive.
10-16-2012, 08:52 AM
#10
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One thing I was thinking of trying is your silicone method. I already put some in the rear axle that has the rubber bushing that connects the live axle and lateral bar. Not sure how it will do as I can only let it sit for 7 hrs. Later today I'm gonna try it in the rear trailing arms and front and rear MMs. I can let those sit for 24 hrs. With the trailing arm I read a thread where they drilled a hole on each side of the mount and kept filling with silicone til the liquid came all out and the silicone starts to leak out and see if that stiffens the RTAs. Both are leaking. Then I'll fill the voids in the MMs and see how that does. I'm using GE window/door silicone 1. Is that what u used?.
10-16-2012, 01:16 PM
#11
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I looked at all the caulkings, and went for GE Silicone II for Gutters & Flashing that's 100% silicone "Our Very Best", transparent, and is spec'd as having outstanding adhesion, permanent flexibility and designed for metal adhesion. Once it has hardened it's very firm, but still has a little flexibility which I thought might make it a bit less firm than the window weld urethane. One last thing- I'd suggest you clean up the mount surfaces as best you can before injecting the silicone to promote better adhesion.
I remember reading that someone had injected silicone into their rear trailing arm bushings but had forgotten about it, but will put it on my to do list- thanks for the reminder.
I remember reading that someone had injected silicone into their rear trailing arm bushings but had forgotten about it, but will put it on my to do list- thanks for the reminder.
10-16-2012, 04:31 PM
#12
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Well i did as much as i can do. I filled the front and rear mounts with the silicone. Not sure if iit is totally filled as they were still mounted so i couldnt get at the whole thing but im sure i got a crap load in there. I did my Trailing arm bushings as well. Unbolted the mounts and let the trailing arm fall till i had good access at it. I will say you need a jack and a stand to do it and if you had a lift to get under and do it and a tranny jack it would have been way easier. What i did is drilled a hole as high as i could on one side and a hole at the bottom on the opposite side., Then i pumped the silicone in till all the liquid Fisnished everything at 6 and wont have to drive the car till 530 tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully that is enough time and hopefully it helps or does something.
Also you said the collar on the subframe bolts are supposed to rotate freely. Took one out and it was rust tight on it so i took it to the wire wheel and cleaned all the junk off it. Then heated with a torch and the collar broke loose and rotates freely. I =ll get the subframe bushing tomorrow and do that to the other 3 bolts. Should be maybe a half hour job. Now i know i can get them fixed because the dealership wanted 5 bucks per bolt...!!! sorry no go
Also you said the collar on the subframe bolts are supposed to rotate freely. Took one out and it was rust tight on it so i took it to the wire wheel and cleaned all the junk off it. Then heated with a torch and the collar broke loose and rotates freely. I =ll get the subframe bushing tomorrow and do that to the other 3 bolts. Should be maybe a half hour job. Now i know i can get them fixed because the dealership wanted 5 bucks per bolt...!!! sorry no go
10-26-2012, 07:43 AM
#13
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OK so I changed out my trailing arm bushings. The difference is awesome. Car feels tighter. Feels like it handles way better. More controlled over bumps potholes and such. But it did not remove the vibration I get. Would motor mounts make the car vibrate. Like I said only when accelerating or accelerating uphill. If I take my foot off the gas it goes away. But comes back once back in the gas. Once at cruising speed its gone. I can't tell if the MM are bad but as far as looking at them they look OK. I cannot pinpoint this as I've looked at or fixed everything. Also changed sway bar bushings and nothing. I replaced the sway bar end links prob at 75k and now have 110k on the car. Will bad end links make the car vibrate. Ugh
10-26-2012, 08:06 PM
#14
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
OK so I changed out my trailing arm bushings. The difference is awesome. Car feels tighter. Feels like it handles way better. More controlled over bumps potholes and such. But it did not remove the vibration I get. Would motor mounts make the car vibrate. Like I said only when accelerating or accelerating uphill. If I take my foot off the gas it goes away. But comes back once back in the gas. Once at cruising speed its gone. I can't tell if the MM are bad but as far as looking at them they look OK. I cannot pinpoint this as I've looked at or fixed everything. Also changed sway bar bushings and nothing. I replaced the sway bar end links prob at 75k and now have 110k on the car. Will bad end links make the car vibrate. Ugh
If you just have the engine vibration I would say change the rear MM first and see if it gets better
12-29-2012, 09:09 PM
#16
No you need to get manual transmission mounts unless you make some sort of sleeve to slide into your AT mounts with the ES Motor Mount set.
12-29-2012, 09:16 PM
#17
Think I ordered this one from same seller....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Maxim...fae2e4&vxp=mtr
12-29-2012, 09:35 PM
#18
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For a MT just Press em out and Press ES bushings in, for AT you need to get a MT mount off ebay for the Front, the Rear one is the same as the MT, or go in the junkyard and find one, I ordered from ebay....
Think I ordered this one from same seller....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Maxim...fae2e4&vxp=mtr
Think I ordered this one from same seller....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Maxim...fae2e4&vxp=mtr
12-30-2012, 12:27 AM
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