shimming input shaft bearings
shimming input shaft bearings
ok so i had horrendous noise coming from my transmission. i researched on here and pinpointed it to the input shaft bearings. so i took it all apart and low and behold my input shaft bearing was pitted to hell and cracking. surprisingly enough absolutely everything else had almost no wear at all, even the gear side input shaft bearing rolled freely with no cracks.
now i am a SUPER POOR student in college and i was lucky to have the DIY ability to completely disassemble my car and transmission to replace those bearings, i didn't replace the mainshaft or differential bearings because they were in good shape and because I'm POOR. but i did manage to replace the bad bearing and the one on the other end of the shaft.
but here is my question, can i get away without shimming it? i know what the best thing to do is and what i should do. but would it make that much of a difference to reshim it or would the old shims be good enough to last me another 50 or 60 thousand miles?
edit: also i was told that the input shaft bearings didnt matter as much as the mainshaft and differential for preload wearing. is there any truth to that? in theorie i see how it could be possible. becasue they are sealed ball bearings and not tapered rollers
now i am a SUPER POOR student in college and i was lucky to have the DIY ability to completely disassemble my car and transmission to replace those bearings, i didn't replace the mainshaft or differential bearings because they were in good shape and because I'm POOR. but i did manage to replace the bad bearing and the one on the other end of the shaft.
but here is my question, can i get away without shimming it? i know what the best thing to do is and what i should do. but would it make that much of a difference to reshim it or would the old shims be good enough to last me another 50 or 60 thousand miles?
edit: also i was told that the input shaft bearings didnt matter as much as the mainshaft and differential for preload wearing. is there any truth to that? in theorie i see how it could be possible. becasue they are sealed ball bearings and not tapered rollers
Last edited by webjohn; Oct 29, 2012 at 03:06 PM.
exactly what did not want to hear. lol thanks for the quick response. do you have any tips for the solder crush method. i bought a micrometer from harbor freight and some thick solder but everytime i try to put the case on it gets stuck somewhere and the solder falls off
the solder falls off of the input shaft
the solder falls off of the input shaft
if you don't re-shim it it'll most likely last you another 50k miles at least. i recommend re-shimming it, but unless you are VERY unlucky with the tolerances, it'll probably last you a few years. my opinion is that most trans shops you might take the trans to would not bother to re-shim it. so you aren't in uncharted waters here.
hold the solder in place with a glob of grease (wheel bearing or similar) if you do decide to re-shim it.
hold the solder in place with a glob of grease (wheel bearing or similar) if you do decide to re-shim it.
I bought calipers and some solder and tried it but the calipers I bought only measured to first decimal and my old shims measured 1.2 mm thick. the solder I bought measured only .9 mm so I melted it and made it thicker but realized it hardened, but i tried it anyway. And it measured 1.3 mm so I just left the old ones
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
Jan 4, 2024 07:01 PM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
Jun 6, 2017 02:01 PM
220k+ A32
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
25
Oct 3, 2015 09:09 PM
Andy29
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
Sep 29, 2015 05:32 AM




