Ok guys, if you all remember my walbro fuel pump thread, I have made myself infamous. Soo with that said, I would like to show how I have my system wired; as I have seen an absolute massive performance increase.
Before any wire modifications, I had a weak sub-woofer, dimming dash lights, rough shifts, and a tough time getting past 100mph. Now, my dash lights are bright, my car idles amazing, and the acceleration has dramatically improved. The car is now instantly responsive. The car just pulls and pulls to 120 now. I thought my tranny was slipping because it would rev 6K for so long, but it was all fixed by adding a ground to it.
I honestly cannot emphasize how important electricity is in a vehicle.

Anyways, I used tsunami 4GA power cable for all wires, crimped with solid copper connects (minus the tranny one, its a screw on one)

Pics:

and I know, I know! I destroyed my engine bay haha, im all for performance not looks!





As you can see, I replaced the factory negative cable. I will once again be replacing it with audio grade 2GA soon.
-Take note of the 3 grounds coming off the negative terminal
-One goes to the tranny
-The other two are directly grounded to frame AND both fuse box grounds
This may sound a bit confusing, but what I did is basically undo both grounds for the fuse box, then just screw them back in place, but with the negative (ground) wire attached to the bolt as well
-This will provide an optimum ground for all of your car and accessories
-Since it no longer uses JUST the chassis and has direct current, everything will work better

(I grounded one fuse box wire to where the factory ground use to be, since this is a known good conductive point)

Now I also added a wire from positive to alternator, this made a nice improvement. I did not use a fuse, despite what others say. Sorry there is no pic for this one.


Alrighty, here is the pic of the engine to chassis ground, pretty simple:
This is a good example of what I did with the fuse box grounds, look close and you will see 2 connectors on 1 bolt



The reason its the big "5" is because you will need 5 wires

negative to chassis (and fuse box)
negative to chassis (and fuse box)
positive to alternator
negative to transmission
engine to chassis

I believe the big 5 will outperform a big 3 upgrade anyday, everything is more thought out and the conduction points used are optimum
-I believe the biggest difference comes from having 2 negative to chassis grounds, one is NOT enough, trust me I tried with one, added another, and instantly saw the difference

Crap phone pic, doesnt do it justice:



Now only if I used 0GA wire hahah

 

Please ban this moron. I don't even know what else to say here, this is painful.

 

Dude, there's a reason for using a fuse for the power wire going to the alternator. To not use one is foolish at best.

This is honestly, one of the most elementary "write-ups" I think I've ever read. You skipped vital steps, and this is a bad example of how to re-ground your engine and electrical components. I can only pray that no one actually follows this "advice". If you're going to mess with your car's electrical system, it should be done right. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to not remove fail-safes from your car's electrical system. Lol. This is dumb.

-Nathan

 

Besides me leaving out an alternator fuse, anyone have anything else to say?

and btw punks who badmouth, IDGAF what you think, ok?

my cars a lot faster cause of this and my windows roll down faster as well


I leave out vital steps because your brain should be able to fill in the gaps.. should.

 

No, you're not understanding.. I'm saying that you skipped vital steps as in, failed to execute vital steps. You cut corners. I'm glad it improved your response, and I think it's fantastic that your windows roll down faster, cause that's important, but if you're going to do a write-up, you should make sure that you are not cutting corners and that you are doing everything properly so that you are not misleading someone else who might be interested in doing this...

-Nathan

 

^^best post here i totally agree.....you have a bunch of newbies here that will be like ooh ooh i want to do it and then go crazy hitting you up for this when a thread should be sufficient for people to understand......has to be a step by step start - end

 

Wow...

 

Aviation: Do a little searching on what an "internet troll" is. This is what I assume you are. If that's not the case, then I feel truly sorry for you. You are completely wrong about numerous things, you believe things are true that are simply not.

You clearly state that you DONT CARE what anyone thinks, and it's obvious that you WILL NOT LISTEN if someone tries to help you learn PROPERLY.

It's because you won't listen that I'm not going to waste my time teaching you the proper way, and why what you are saying/doing is wrong. You're not TOOOOOOOO far off, if you'd listen, you could be fixed, but you won't listen, so you're completely fcuked.

And if your mindset doesn't change at a minimum, you should be BANNED from this site, because you WILL mislead people and cause them huge problems.

 

ok use your eyes and add your own fuse. its funny the one thing u can possibly complain about.. you complain about.

and its more than windows smart one. The entire car drives 3x better, my audio goes to FULL volume with no distortion anymore (aftermarket system), which is quite impressive if I must say so. smoother shifts, and the engine even sounds louder. oh yeaa and FASTER FASTER is the main reason

The main gist here is to use the ground points I mentioned (fuse box grounds) as they will provide better electric flow than all the other big 3 threads. I'm sure many will contest this, but be logical and think it all out. everyone is relying on 1 neg to chassis ground; my method uses 2 neg to chassis grounds, while grounding 2 fuse box grounds, so essentially you are supplying grounds to 4 points rather than one

and yes tunermaxima, im ****ed because my car runs amazing without a fuse. I'm sorry I did not use a fuse, mommy.
So much love on these forums.. sigh

 

Penny in a fusebox...

Just buy an inline holder and fuse, like on car stereos.
If you ever had a car fire, on its own or in an accident, would you want the insurance co. to have an excuse for non-coverage?

At least it will shut up everyone here. And yes good grounding and wiring is a good thing to improve, just do it safely, if not the best way.

 

You didn't post one picture of your 'fuse box' grounds.

2 grounds on the same spot is pointless. The only reason that would make a difference is if one of them is not a good ground due to the contact being varsoled or otherwise comprimised. One good ground point it more than sufficient, if it's not, the wire isn't big enough.

And as for the thing that seems to have you so brainwashed here: performance increase/better operation of the car as a whole:
-This is simply due to bad grounds previously. The stock grounds were damaged or otherwise comprimised. SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR, and REPLACING GROUNDS FIXED IT.
Your car is not faster than other people's maximas. It was JUST SLOWER BEFORE BECAUSE IT WAS FCUKED UP, and now it's the same speed as other peoples maxima's that are running properly.

your ignorance is mildly amusing, at least.

 

DIY courage aside, your Mom's going to be p1ssed when she finds out what you did to her clothes dryer.

 

once you see the silver hvac intake all credibility goes right out the door.

BTW, the big 3 is a grounding term used for car audio. There is no big 5. What you have is a self made engine grounding kit. Most people use a bit more to actually complete this kit and NONE of them involve running new power wires.

 

Well, even before the pictures, the OP proudly describes himself as "infamous", and claimed his DIY grounding kit resulted in an "absolute massive performance increase".

So really, the pictures were just icing on the cake.

Hmm-m-m, cake.

 

http://www.quickmeme.com/meme/3s58eb/
Hahaha

 

Are you in some way a electrical engineer? No? I am and your logic is flawed...wow my whole office is LOFAO

 

All that wire is JDM, yes?

 

Oh jeebus that's funny. Hey when you put that second fuse in, make sure its in parallel and of the same value as the original. That way they'll last twice as long! **** Kirchoff!

 

 

Absolute genius. To aviation just get a fuse you'll be glad if you did and anything goes wrong. There is no "big 5" you just did a partial "big 3" with some extra grounding cable with at least two of them being less than nominally effective. If it works for you dog it is all good. Just don't call it the "big 5" as that would preclude some measure of authority on the subject which is earned not self appointed.

 

Eesh.

IBcarfire. Also...Nathan's post is top-notch. Excellent work, buddy.

 

should have used custom monster cable diamond coated wiring, way lower resistance. i've heard rumors of otherwise stock maximas running 12s with just the monster cable wiring upgrade.

 

You know you done bad when an Admin steps in and offers advice.

 

i am not an electrical engineer. i do understand how it all works and consider myself highly intelligent. tunermaxima you are incorrect. before doing any upgrades, i redid the entire factory ground system. took it all apart, inspected, and shaved all ground points to shiny steel. i even bought a 200A alternator, and a new high amperage battery.. well my guage cluster was STILL dim even after all that! there was no corrsion or broken wires.

i took this task as a scienctific experiment. i had a control, i then test drove the car after adding each wire to see the different performance gains. id have to say.. each wire made an equally noticeable difference.

i am not on here to troll, u guys just are too quick to judge then you roast for it.
i did a low budget task that made an incredible difference and i want to share it with the world. all i say is just try what i did.. just try it and see for yourself. but add a fuse on the alt wire lol!

and tunermaxima, i dont have pics of the fuse box grounds cause they are hard to take and im lazy. i will try getting one for everyone, it is just the stock fusebox ground wire, connected to one of the neg to chassis, but, its bolted where the stock main ground was

 

Good to know. Although if you've come to the point where you have to make claims like that, it's probably best to go away and start over, before it gets worse.

 

Aviation - if you're really worried about better power then route the 'dryer ducting' past the battery to the right instead of right behind the radiator. You're only drawing in hot air. Also, the least bends in your piping the better...
Flawless Victory, Nate

 

Wow n I thought I was on a budget by using a hacked 3" exhaust pipe for an intake LOL and yup its an injen style -_- put your stock intake assembly on and make GAB Or do cold air intake properly.

Whoever said stock grounds are more than.enough I'd say no. While I was going through some 00vi issues I made newer stronger grounds... 1 for the engine block to frame, the 5th gen injectors, tb and.iacv. the response was.slightly less laggy but what was noticeable was the improvement in idle smoothness. I felt it and could see it on the vafc2.

I'll put Some for the starter n tranny when I get a chance. I know starting the car will prob improve slightly but I really wonder about shifting smoothness

 

strap that tranny wire on there and you will not regret it! much smoother shifts

and yeah I know my intakes not in the best place, I bought a huge air filter and it will not fit any other way sadly

edit: hmmm i just had a hidea!
if I undo the dryer vent from the mass airflow, then lead it up from the bottom, I can prob get the filter to sit below the battery. hmm i know what im doing later

 

Kill it!! Kill it with fire!!!

 

Lol

 

Your first mistake. Throw your conceited mind out the window sooner than later, you might even learn something.

I call B/S.

CCA or Amp/Hr?

It's what we all feared, this guy really IS this foolish.

 

Boy it's messed up that this guy is the most popular guy in the 5th gen forum for being a screw up. I don't know that might say more about us than him. F' it let the trashing commence...

 

At least the guy is learning to hack his car, and fixed problems by collateral result.

Soon you won't be able to as software lockout federal nanny boxes and vendor (read dealer) lock-in get worse, like Apple stuff.

Most people are afraid to open their hood.

(Just fuse your alternator line at least)