I've wanted to do this a long time because the 4 gauge just isn't cutting it and i'm losing out on power. Have any of you ran 0 gauge wire from the back to front? How did you go about going through the firewall?

 

I would have thought the 4 gauge was plenty but if you say it isn't cutting it then that is a learning experience for me. Running it through should be easy. Just copy what you already have. You could even tie the new wire to the old wire and pull it through on certain areas. I assume this is for subwoofers in the back.

 

Amps are not small lol..This fuse is ridiculously large. And yes I'm running 0 gauge from distribution block to battery. Believe me, I thought the same!

 

Check for loose connections if you are popping fuses, but I agree that 0 awg is a good call either way. Its the best thing to use but its so expensive we all just run 4 gauge because its"Good enough"

How big is this fuse? And what are you running in the back?

 

Ahahaha man believe me it's no loose connection! 100A fuse will not cut it for these amps. I have a p400-4 and a p1000 mono. The 100A is barely draws enough power for the P1000! It just got to the point where I was tired of popping fuses so I just went out to buy a 0 Ga kit. It will come in handy anyway when I get these Rockford Power series coax for the rear...Still need something for the front though...Hmmm..

 

Yeah you should probably have 0 gauge but how many farad cap? Hope you are not going to say no cap.

 

no cap

 

This is phenomenon I never understood. If 0 gauge is too expensive and 4 gauge doesn't hold enough current why not either go two gauge welding cable or 0 gauge CCA either does about 250A max at 20' and cost about $2 a foot. Problem solved.

 

Because they likely don't sell it in 17ft lengths?

 

 

You can purchase them the same way you purchase any other wire, by the foot.

 

Check my pictures brudder

 

Dont worry about it bro heres what i currently do
2x Alpine M2000
2x Alpine F545
Alpine INA-w910
Alpine PXA-H701
Alpine Rux-C701
Alpine DHA-S6906
Alpine HD Radio Interface
Alpine XM Radio Interface
Alpine Type-X 12's x2
Alpine SPX-17pro x2
Alpine SBS-05DC Center Channel
SoundStream D60II amp
Full Viper 5907 Alarm with smartstart and all bells and whistles

BTW the main power 0ga comes in where the slave cylinder mounts there is a hole there already

 

And i can get you a roll of 0ga 50ft of the stuff i use for $40

 

I was able to get a 0 ga kit for 50 bucks. I could have bought it by the foot but getting the setup as a whole was definitely a better deal.

I've got to get me those Stingers terminals! Doesn't seem like there's a problem getting through the firewall..I'll just tie it to my current 4ga and pull it through, as someone else suggested.

 

No! do not pull it thru trust me if you knick that cable you will be sorry just do it right the first time! also goto HomeDepot and goto the electrical section and pick up electrical panel Ground Lugs for grounding the system i the trunk and some 3/8" bolts&nuts to ground it Do Not use the rear seat Mounting hardware its not a good ground

 

Oh well then the hard way it is... I was thinking about this to ground my amps with...http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ires-GT24.html

Got a nice setup goin on there CJ

 

that will work but get it from amazon not sonic i had nothing but problems from that place and get a 200amp circuit breaker not a fuse!

 

Why do you say that? Last time I used a circuit breaker it kept jumping and eventually got fried.

 

 

Oh damn that is pretty cool. Not sure I can afford that one right now..A fuse wouldn't hurt for a couple weeks I suppose?

 

My 4 ga is ran through the panels, I'm guessing the 0ga won't fit. What's the easiest way to get that carpet out of the way?

 

take seat up and molding off pull carpet up

 

200amp fuses only use anl type

 

Yup that's what I got, what distribution block to go with? I was looking at this: and throw 2 small fuses on there for the 4 ga going from the amps to block.

 

Your system running steady will not draw more than that 4 AWG can handle. And won't draw 100 A.

Your system when the bass hits hard will easily draw more than 100A, and more than the 4 AWG can handle.

The problem isn't the wire size, or the fuse size, it's the lack of a capacitor to take up those spikes in current.

You need a 1 Farad Cap, or a battery.
0 AWG wire is recommended, and should be done, but it won't fix your problem. And yo'ure just putting un-needed strain on the battery and alternator.

I remember pretty crappy, it was a long time ago I tried to get this stuff. What I remember was that 0 AWG was $3-4 a foot unless you bought the really stiff stuff that you cant even bend where you need it. That stuff was round $2 a foot but trying to install it would be nearly impossible for a car.

The biggest expense I recall was actually the connectors, not the wire. And avaialbility in my area at the time drove prices around $20 per connector IIRC.

Not to mention needing a proper crimping device to install them.
Obviously there are other options, and my location might simply have been the cause for some of the high prices, dunno. I just recall the cost being about double or more to run 0 AWG. Again, I could be way off, it was a long time ago.


4 AWG is more than sufficient for most jobs, but NOT if you're running no-cap and a decent size setup.
0 AWG is not even sufficient with no cap and a decent sized system.

 

Circuit breaker trips at the same amperage as your fuse would blow.
If you Circuit breaker is tripping, or your fuse is blowing, then either you have a loose connection, or the system is not set up properly for the size of system you have bangin in your trunk

Circuit breaker is awesome, but in a proper system it's not needed, a fuse will work. If calculated properly and set up properly, the fuse should never blow unless you have a bad connection or a short.

 

So a 1 farad cap then I'll be drawing proper amount of power? Probably upgrade to a yellow top eventually.

 

I cringe when people recommend a capacitor. It is the most unnecessary item for everybody short of competition cars and even they run extra batteries instead but thats because they also have uprated Alt's so as not to strain the engine. Get a Yellow Top like you said, it is designed for high amp draws and literally loves a system. I had a friend that had the fluttering HL problem when the bass hit and he wanted to get a cap and I talked him into getting a Yellow Top. Afterall, if the current is not there to begin with then a cap literally does nothing. I would say 800RMS is about the cut-off between simply needing a battery for the purpose and needing an uprated alt.

 

Tuner my system has a no load idle amp draw 240amp so that means just when the system is on and music not playing M2000 60amp idle current draw and F545 30amp idle draw

 

im using a old Phoenix Gold distribution blocks 4in 8out

 

I've also heard that but my boy who also pushes the same amps got a cap for his p1000. There was a difference in the sense that there was no longer the voltage drop he had before. He could also play it at higher volumes for much longer periods of time. A cap doesn't cost much so getting one can't hurt.. It would only help anyway.

 

How many RMS is your amp going to put out to your sub/subs?

 

800 subs
300 from 4 chan

 

Anyone with electrical component knowledge can easily tell you why you're wrong in your thinking about not needing/wanting a Cap.

Any component that needs/causes spikes in voltage or amperage should have a capacitor to smooth out those spikes and decrease wear on the component supplying the voltage, or the wiring/components in between.

The reason people got this idea that Cap's are pointless in the Audio industry is a simple matter of cost. A decent 1 Farad Capacitor costs $80.
A battery costs $80-150 roughly.

A battery is WAY better than a Capacitor (basically a massive capacitor).

So most guys who know their stuff opt for a Trunk-mounted battery, and either bump the alternator up or install an isolator for the battery, or both.

Once you need more than 1 Farad Capacitance, you should consider putting a battery in instead. The OP doesn't need more than 1 Farad. He needs a Cap.

There's a ton of misinformation you can try and dig up to support your claim, but it's false internet information by people who know only car stereos, and nothing about electronics.

Yeah but your shyt is hooker-on-a-friday crazy.

 

Also a lot of misinformation about Caps 'not working' is because people installed them incorrectly, or didn't charge them/discharge them properly.

 

This!

 

since Rockford Fosgate amps are under rated I would say at 1 ohm your amp is around 1200 RMS my t 1000 constant power at 2 ohms is 1200 and at 1 ohm 1500 rms with that said since you have a p400x4 and a P1000 I would say to run 2 fray capacitor or better if anyone once 0 gauge wire look in Hey pick a part most vehicles with batteries in the trunk have 0 gauge wire and they normally sell for like 10 to 15 bucks for a run of wire

Kenwood head unit
Pioneer 600.4
T1000.1bdcp
T1 6.5s
Infinite kappa components 6.75
Rockford p3 12s

 

Do the big three. Number one mod in heavy car audio. If you dont know what im talking about youtube it. I just did it and it solved my light dimming issue. I just ran 0 guage on my 4th gen. And if your blowing 100 amp fuses, it may not be because the cable is too small but rather the fuse it self. My memphis 1000x1 has three 30 amp fuses, so 90 amps total So if i only ran a 100 amp under hood, with that kind of line loss. I would be popping them to.

That said. Try upping the fuse to a 120 or 150 amp. If not go 0 guage and dont worry about it. I used wire from KnuKoncepts, Best wire out there right now for the money. I bought it Online, google it. Paid 3.00 per foot and got free shipping. I priced around my town at the local shops cheapest i found was 7.00 per foot, not good when your needing 25 + feet. Good luck I also just re-ran mine through the same hole with a new grommet of course and some wire loom.

 

you shouldn't run much more than 100A through a 20' 4 awg wire, IJS.
that's a lot of amperage.

IIRC max amperage for 4 awg is 60A or 130, can't rembember which one it is. might be 60A constant and 130 surge