user name001

My car has been on the sluggish side, I had it at a shop yesterday for a hard start issue im also having and pulled up a ghost code for my K.S. which my cheapo scanner didnt pick up. After some research i threw in a 560k resistor ( i read in another post 470k = 4th gen 570k=5th gen) Wow!! it made a huge difference. i will be replacing the K.S and was only doing this as a "test".

I did a few WOT runs and noticed now my car (00 auto) has a really laggy 1st-2nd followed by a clunk. This wasnt there befor. i must have had another issue and didnt notice it because it was so underpowered. I took a few videos and of course the best one out of the bunch i have the stereo going! regardless of the stereo its still a crappy video. Sorry hopefully you can see what im talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw04hy30TIQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The other issue im having now is, when im cruising and slightly get on it but dont let it upshift, i get a slight engine ping/gas ping.It doesnt happen at any other time, just when its kinda lagging in a higher gear. I do have my timing advanced and befor i put the resistor in, my timing was anywhere in between 13-17, now it sits at a solid 17 @ idle. Would this ping go away when putting a new K.S in? or do i have another issue that the K.S. isnt picking up because the resistor is in? i always run 92, i have done routine drain and fills with castrol multi ATF, i have swapped to a y901 TCM. i have cleaned my TB, IACV, replaced PCV and performed a motovac.

Finchum

with a working knock sensor installed it will pull timing until the ping disappears-so take it easy until then.

In the video it almost seems like the transmission is slipping upon shifting and grabs again. I would recommend Lucas slip-stop if that is the issue, that stuff works wonders on older mileage transmissions that need 'friction material' in the fluid to help them work right.


FYI-I have the 470k resistor bypassing my K/S on my car and I do not get any gas ping. Its on the factory tune and timing with 93 octane.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

BRAVO on your research and testing!

HOWEVER, If your car is pinging, there's a good chance your knock sensor is simply doing it's job
It senses the pinging and pulls timing.

First thing I'd do is plug the knock sensor back in,
then check for vacuum leaks,
then monitor your fuel trims.
Sounds like you have a scanner that can do that, report back your findings.

You cant run it while pinging you dont' want to kill the engine brah! Plug that KS back in and let it pull the timing back until you fix the main problem causing the ping.

user name001

thanks for the replies, its not slipping, or at least not spiking/flairing. it kinda feels simular to an awkward shift with a manual when you dont sync the clutch release properly ( if that makes sense) i did at one point add lucas and didnt see a difference, I have since then done quite a few drain and fills.

Im going to pick up a knock sensor tomorrow hopefully, although if there too pricey around here i will have to get one off ebay and wait for it.

tuner- i have looked for a vaccuum leak and couldnt find one ( throttlebody cleaner sprayed) , after that i ended up taking it in and having them hook up a smoke machine to properly check for a leak, but none was found. we watched the fuel trim ( i have no clue how to read fuel trim) but my friend who was checkin everything out told me my fuel trim looked good when he was monitoring my 02's.

I should add, its not loud pinging, i wouldnt hear it if the radio was on a reasonable level, or if someone was talking for an example, i only heard it because i put the resistor in so i had the radio off and was paying close attention to the sounds.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Yo do not bypass your knock sensor! Your asking for problems and dont even understand

MrEous

iTrader: (11)

No way I'd eliminate the knock sensor...

user name001

im not eliminating or bypassing it. like i said in the first post i used it as a test. i have plugged the original K.S back in for now.

I have read a large amount of threads with guys who have left it in for a looooong time with no issues, but i will be replacing it.

im starting to wonder if i always had this pinging and never noticed it, maybe from advancing my timing im thinking. With the K.S. plugged back in this morning, i heard some pinging once it was at operating temp. it seems to ping in the 1800-2300 RPM range, i usually use 91-92 grade, but i filled it this morning with chevron 94 so i will see how it is on the drive home. it definatley doesnt have the power with it plugged back in :-( .

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

mine has been bypassed for 3 years......... no problems here

user name001

ya ive read lots of people who have had a resistor in and had no problems. im sure a big part of doing it safley is keeping your vehicle maintained properly ( cleaning out carbon deposits, keeping injectors clean, running the right grade etc.) but there could be that one time something goes wrong and you would be in trouble.

tigershark, what did you throw in a 470? 560? 5th gen 4 th gen?

thanks.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

^4th gen. I honestly do not remember what size the resistor was

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The transmission shifting problem could be the shift solenoids inside of the transmission. He has a 2000 and that is the reason service bulletin NTB00-039 came into being.

Currently the bulletin is revision d but all I have is a link to rev a.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB00-039a.pdf

user name001

ya i read about the shift solenoids, my build date is Oct 99, i know that probably doesnt mean much so ill check my VIN this afternoon. wouldnt i have a line pressure or solenoid code though?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Cool if you can check the fuel trims just write the LTFT numbers down and the STFT also and post it.

LTFT should be well under 5% or there is someting wrong. STFT should stay under 10% ideally

user name001

I monitored my 02's on the way home. LTFT bank 1 and 2 both stayed below 5%. It was all over the place though, in the negatives and positives, bouncin all ova and ish!

STFT was simular in its movement, it did get up to 13 once or twice though.
( i took a few videos sitting @ idle going through my scanner looking at trims, timing,TPS, load, temps etc. if you want me to post them let me know)

this morning i filled up with 94, it seemed less noticeable on the way home. The wierd shifting was the same, i know i have adjusted my TPS befor, so i pulled over at a gas station and pulled out my multi meter. Key on engine off it was reading .62v. I bumped it up to .80v ( FSM says anywhere from .15-.85 is tolerable) and i couldnt get it to ping anymore.. It is quicker to upshift now so maybe its not lagging in high gear at low RPMS, which is where it has been pinging ( or it could be in my head haha) .

I think im going to disconnect the battery for the night because i adjusted my TPS and because i was messing around with my K.S. Tomorrow is the weekend, ill go bomb it around for the day and see what happens.

user name001

My car does fall into this category. i have posted a thread in regards to my 2-3 shift flare a while back ( i never had this lag/slam shift befor though , its new) i did replace my TCM with a y901 ( in the TSB it says thats for 2001 only ?) it didnt do anything. im probably going to end up throwing some solenoids in (283.00 at the dealer out here, and i dont trust ordering online incase i get the wrong part or a faulty assembly) im just worried that if i do throw those in, and it turns out to be the VB im gunna be screwed. i do have 205,000 kms and it was owned by an older lady befor, they should probably be replaced anyways because im sure didnt notice it and they havent been done befor.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

The tsb solonoid kit is $78 and it comes with all of them do a search or wait till i hit my computer for the part number

user name001

really? if you could post the part number that would be AWESOME! thanks cjandura!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you can find that, I would be interested in it myself. I know that the 4th gen solenoids are around that $78 price but I can't find that price for the 5th gen.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

In the process now. Got the Kit at Summit Racing for $118. Added genuine Nissan Solenoid pack from Stealership for 89.95. How did I get the pack so cheap? Read on.

I think I got it all figured out reguarding the Solenoid packs. If you attempt to buy the solenoid packs on the own = about $310 give or take. If you elect to buy the Solenoid repair kit listed in TSB NTB-043 ,(Nissan part # 31940-80X25), it only costs $89 at Courtesy Nissan. This "kit" includes:

Solenoid assembly qty 1 part # 31940-80X05 price= $309.61
Oil Pan Bolt qty21 part # 31377-80X09 price= $11.76 ($.56 X 21)
Drain Plug Washer qty 1 part # 11026-01M02 price= $1.17
Snap Ring qty1 part # 31506-80X11 price= $1.29

The way I see it, you save $234.83 and you get the solenoid pack PLUS new drain pan bolts, a new drain plug washer and a new snap ring. What a bunch of thieves. They arent called stealerships for nothing I guess.



LINK FOR COURTESY NISSAN PRICE

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Que? spoon feed me here I do not know what you guys are talking about here

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

hmmm fuel trims sound reasonable, maybe a bit sporadic. Post your video it might help rule it out or call attention to it.

How about the O2 sensor readings?

user name001

called my local dealer, 170 for the repair kit. still cheaper than the solenoids by themselves. im going to order them in and more than likely put them in myself. hopefully by next weekend. but we will see.

as for the gas ping, i havent really heard it after filling up with 94 and bumping up the TPS . if i hear it again ill make a better video (all mine are shakey) and post it.

ill post back on my solenoid replacing and let you know how it works out

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

You know that kit i posted comes with all the solenoids right

user name001

yea.

The kit you posted comes with solenoids, gasket, pan bolts and drain plug. Im buying this kit @ 170.00 which is being shipped in from Toronto as opposed to each indivdual item (280. solenoids, 30. gasket, 21. pan bolts, 9 drain bolt) . Thank you very much cjandura you saved me around 170 bucks!

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Should of got itfrom the link i posted courtesy parts

user name001

i know.. i just dont want to order online. i figure regardless you have saved me money no matter what. im just going to grab it from a local dealer.

i still havent ordered them yet, im waiting till tomorrow and im going to order it at work ( ill get another 20% off the price) but first im going to throw my other TCM back in and see if it changes. I got on it on the hwy today and noticed the 1-2 thunk, 2-3 didnt really seem like it thunked or at least as much. so im going to throw it in and drive it and see if i can get it to thunk. if it still does, im going to order them in and install them hopefully befor friday. If that doesnt solve it then i guess my next step is a VB mod which i really dont want to do..

i have read alot of threads in regards for the transmissions in these cars with simular symptoms. Trans Go shift kit if the VB is the problem and not solenoids, TCM. not many people replaced just solenoids, it was either both the kit and solenoids or just the kit. im going to see if i can narrow down if it is infact the solenoids or the valvebody.

i have done a few drain and fills and it helped a bit.i have replaced my original TCM with one ending in y901 from a Y301. Next step is solenoids then the Trans go kit i guess, i cant afford to do them both and id rather do it ine by one so i know exactly what the cause was.

im not getting anymore ping with the K.S. resistor in place or the K.S. in tact. i think i probably always had pinging running 91 with the advanced timing. so now my only issue is the transmission. im hoping solenoids will fix it cuz i dont want to pay 500+ in total (160 Trans Go,350 install) for this valve body mod ad i dont want the "slam shifts" everyone talks about.

user name001

Ok so i ordered the solenoid kit today at work. 145.40.They should be here Wednesday. hopefully i can get them in there befor friday and hopefully it solves my problem! thanks for everyones help, ill post back with results. does anyone know if there is a replacement writeup? should i make one with pics? i know there's VB writeups, but ill make one specific for the solenoids.

thanks again.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Do write up and list parts and lots of pictures.also you thump did you check your motor mounts?

user name001

no, well i visually inspected my transmission mount and crossmember mount (non electric one) and front engine mount ( passenger side). Im not too sure on how to inspect the electric mounts... i have rocked it back and forth in gear to see the play in it and there wasnt much ( i would have been able to tell if one was torn) maybe ill search and see if i can find a way to inspect the electric mounts. but regardless i have an issue with the transmission so i should do the solenoids anyways.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Only real check is visual on mounts and hurry up and unplug that electric mount

user name001

why unplug? for the ECU short? i have visually inspected them they seemed ok although its hard to check the electronic mounts.. ill unplug when im off work and have some time. thanks for all your help cjandura, i appreciate it.

user name001

so, the solenoid kit 31940-80x25 is WRONG! the solenoid seat is is way bigger than the one in there. so i have to try and return these through my work which they might not take. back to square one.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Thats the kit i used

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Yes you will get no warning! The fluid inside the mount will short the connection

user name001

that kit is for the 4th gen RE4F04A.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

The electrical mount does the vast majority of its work when your car is in drive and stopped. If the mount is working properly you shouldn't notice any unusual/strange vibration coming into the cabin.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

The transgo?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The electric motor mount is an oil filled chamber that gets oil pumped in and out of it. When the engine goes below 1000 rpms, the oil is pumped out to make the mount softer. Above 1000 rpm, the oil is pumped into the mount to make it stiffer. The only time the oil pump motor runs is when the engine rpms cross the 1000 mark, either accelerating or slowing down. It doesn't matter if the transmission is in drive or park or whatever.

If you want to see pics, go here: http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=6654

pics 3, 5, 6 and 7 are of the oil pump electric motor. This is what burns out and fries the ECU.
pic4 is the bottom of the mount where the electric motor attaches. pic 5 shows the drive tang of the motor.
pic 9 (last pic) shows the oil reservoir that the oil is pumped in and out from.
pic 2 shows a crack below the center bolt hole that allowed the oil to drain out.

user name001

no, the earlier maximas transmission is a re4f04a. that is what that solenoid repair kit is for. 2000-2001 have re4f04B or re4f04w, my maxima has a re4f04w, i have a LSD. maybe thats what the difference is and why they worked for your 5th gen. you have a non LSD trans and i have a LSD trans. cjandura, if you could next time your under the hood look at the firewall tag, under transaxle it has a serial number, write it down and post it here. im curious if you have a "B" or "W". maybe that solenoid kit is interchangable between 4-5th gen as long as you have a non LSD.

thanks for the link dennismik, i heard disconnecting the electric motor mounts is best done by revving the engine above a 1000 RPMS then unplugging so they stay filled which keeps them on the firmer side. does that make sense? i kniw my car had a TSB done for the IACV, looking at my mounts they have been swiped with a green felt which indicates they have already been replaced with updated ones per the TSB on them. should i still unplig them?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

As to should you unplug them, I haven't read anything you've posted that makes me think that you have bad motor mounts. Because some people have had their ECU fried by shorted motor mounts, many people run scared.

It's a personal call if you want to unplug them. You should rev the engine above 1000 if you're going to disconnect them so the will be in the firm mode. If you are ambitious and have extra money laying around, you can replace them with mounts for a standard trans.

When you were testing the mounts by revving the engine, the way you described the movement seemed normal to me. Without going back and re-reading, I hope you did the revving with the trans in both drive AND reverse. One gear tests the front mount and the other gear tests the rear mount.