macantley

iTrader: (5)

almost all cars' ive driven the pedal only does this when there is air in the clutch line, ill say, im new to maxima's, is it a hydrolic clutch line? is this normal for a max? if not im going to try to bleed the system, is there a preferred way to bleed it if it is hydrolic? about the last half of the pedal movement does absolutely nothing, by 2-3 inches off the floor its fully engaged.

my contour is fully engaged with about 1/4-1/2" left in the pedal movement, my fiero's are about the same as the contour.

just trying to get a feel for whats up with the car, whats normal, what isnt.

matthew

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the clutch is hydraulic. The bleeding procedures are in the FSM (Found Here). As far as clutch pedal travel, every car is different. I've driven at least 100 different cars with MT and I guarantee you that no two were the same. Does that mean something's not wrong with yours? No. Check it and see. If you are going to bleed your clutch master/slave cylinders I highly recommend replacing the disaster of lines and hose that Nissan used with just a one piece line (available here). If you don't you will have a hell of a time bleeding any air out of that rats nest.

macantley

iTrader: (5)

im assuming its the LONG cable listed on that link? the $40 one not the shorter $30 one?

ajahearn

iTrader: (3)

The clutch grabs quickly but not immediately off the floor, about 2 may be 3 inches off the floor. Presumably you checked the fluid levels and color. Bleeding is certainly the cheapest thing to try. There is a TSB on the clutch related to whining noises (search for dying/dead squirrel).

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the longer $40 dollar hose. The short one only goes from the existing hard lines (which is the real problem when bleeding) to the slave cylinder.

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

no offense to anyone but you don't need the $40 hose... just run to your local parts store pick up a 5ft brake line and an adapter for the slave cylinder and you are done... it less than $10 and it work just as good... I put one on mine 2 years ago and it still works as it should...

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

No offense taken. That does work just as well. I was just offering the simplest ready made solution.

macantley

iTrader: (5)

and what vehicle did this brake line come from? or was it a metal line?, if it was a rubber line i would need to know approx. what vehicle it was from, and what "adapter" is needed, im sure i can figure it all out on my own, but there's always a possibility that you'll remember what you got the parts from.

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

If you find out the problem comes from your slave cylinder, I've got a brand new one sitting at my house I can sell to you for really cheap...

macantley

iTrader: (5)

thanks, your old car is at IAAI auctions now, sale date hasnt been determined yet though, I cannot buy from IAAI so im asking some buddies who possibly can. guess we will see what happens.

matthew

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

You just go run to your local auto store and pick up a 5ft metal brake line that is already flared on the two ends... and an inverted flare female brake line adapter fitting. Best thing to do is actually remove the slave master cylinder and take it with you to the store... I can't really remember what size the fitting was... I believe it 1/8 to 1/4 but entire sure... you bolt one end to the master cylinder, also rent the line bent tool from auto zone as well it will so much easier to bent the line and actually make it fit nice in the engine bay... then take that inverter and bolt it to the slave cylinder and then bolt the other end of the line to the inverter... bleeding litteraly took me less than a minute...

Gizm0

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well if you end up getting it and restoring it, take care of it and send me pics

macantley

iTrader: (5)

I adjusted the bolt on the master cylinder, all is good for now, pedal is alittle stiffer, but the clutch feel is alot nicer.

matthew

ranmas2004

iTrader: (2)

I've never had this problem when the car was stock. I only started having sinking clutch pedal problems after I did my turbo. I looked in the 350z forum and lots of dudes that went turbo or headers have the same issue. The problem was the extra heat generated from the headers or turbo under the engine heats the braking fluid in the rubber hose and makes it sloppy. DOT 3 has a boiling point of like 280ish degrees. So the solution those guys did was replace the DOT 3 with DOT 4 that has a boiling point of 480ish degrees. This solved their problems. I actually ordered 2 SS clutch lines; the short one that just replaces the rubber part and the entire long one that replaces the entire line up to the master cylinder. I haven't decided which one Im going to do yet. But I will definately replace the DOT 3 with DOT 4 when I do the lines. My clutch pedal only sinks when Im sitting or doing alot of stop and go driving and the line heats up from the extra heat...when Im driving on the freeway or in the city its good as long as I dont have to stop and stay for a long time or get a lot of short accelerations then stay stopped.