pinellas50

I have done quite a bit of searching on these topics but most of the responses I found pertain to poly urethane mounts and 3.5 valve covers. I want to make sure I am getting the correct things for my 3.0.

With motor mounts. I have an auto trans but I want to get away from the electric motor mounts and put mounts for a standard transmission in. But I want to stay with stock rubber instead of going to poly mounts. I have found several manufactures who sell the mount already in the bracket so you don't have to press inserts in and out. My question is, would mounts/brackets for a standard trans bolt onto my existing cross member or are the cross members specific to the type of trans?

On the topic of valve cover gaskets, my rear started leaking in both corners so oil is going down the back sides of the engine block. I have read many upgrading to 2004 valve covers but I have to assume this applies to the 3.5 motors. Is there anything special about replacing the gaskets on a 2001 3.0 motor?

2kMaxim

Just did this swap. Manual mounts from Autozone will work for all three engine mounts. You will need an Auto transmission mount though. Also can be had from Autozone etc. I went the cheap route and got and ebay pack of mounts for 95$ shipped. Some members say they wear out faster than other mounts but im going to be the test dummy for this I have a connection for very reasonably priced shop labor. One thing is...my Ebay mounts are steel brackets..the stock ones are aluminum and are 1/2 inch bigger...make sure you buy some bolts from a hardware store to allow for this difference. My mech had to go buy them from pep boys mid project....

pinellas50

Thanks for the clarification on the motor mounts 2K.

I have found valve cover gaskets listed by themselves and listed in kits. The kits also have gaskets for the spark plug tubes and gromets(probably what the valve cover bolts go through). Am I right to assume it would make sense to replace all of that by getting a kit than reusing my old stuff?

2kMaxim

If its anything like the valve cover gaskets on my motorcycle.....then I would think just the gasket itself would be all you'd need, along with some gasket sealer.....Unless the cover bolts were overtorqued I would think they would last the life of the car. But I havent done this repair yet on my car.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Yes, while you are in there replace the tube seals as well. If you've never changed them before they've probably started to become hard/brittle. Best to just spend a little more, get the kit and do it while you're in there, so you won't have to worry about it later on if you begin to see oil buildup in your spark plug tubes.

Use some RTV when replacing the rear valve cover gasket as well, or it will leak from the corners (IIRC, mainly the rear left side).

On my 4th gen auto GLE, I did the same thing as the 2kMaxim. Got all 4 mounts for about $100 shipped. My car had the electronic mount as well, but the ones from ebay worked fine for the remainder of the time that I had the car, which was about 3 years. Really didn't notice a rougher idle or any more vibration than with the OEM mounts.

pinellas50

The new valve cover gaskets and tube seals are in along with RTV in the corners. The front bank was pretty easy as I suspected. Pulling the upper intake to get at the rear was much worse than I expected. There are going to be quite a few brackets that don't make their way back in there on reassembly. And I guess I have to go to the dealer to get a couple of the hoses that crumbled in my hand while I was trying to get them off.

Enough complaining. I am looking at the coolant lines that run to the bottom of the throttle body and I am remembering all of the posts I have seen about these being the source of coolant getting into the TPS killing that and the ECM. Is there any reason I can't just bypass the throttle body like you would bypass a heater core? Would this be a good idea?

And is there any logical reason to keep those large brackets at the back of the motor which bolt to the intake? Those things were the worst to deal with!

defiance

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can bypass the Idle control valve (Bottom of the throttle body)
I am currently looking at this: Watts
3/8 in. Brass Barb Splicer
Model # LF A290 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...l#/?c=1&Nao=24
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...9#.USGIcaVweSo

Its a pipe fitting that will bring the two coolant hoses together, bypassing the idle control valve