Hey guys! Long time, no see! Got a problem (naturally) that is giving me fits. The car starts and runs perfectly as long as it is above freezing. Once it gets colder than that it cranks just fine, just won't fire. Let it sit until the weather warms up and it starts just fine again.

Have gone thru 20 pages of search and 10 pages of regular forum without finding any help. Oh, yeah, car is a 2000, stock, ~ 170K.

Thank you for your assistance.

 

Will the engine try to start if you use a starting spray?

 

Have you ever done a throttle body cleaning on your car before? I highly recommend that if you haven't. Also it might be a good idea to clean out your idle air control valve at the same time. These cars tend to react funny if those two parts aren't clean.

You also might want to look at your engine coolant temperature sensor. I'm not 100% sure if it holds true on the early 5th gens, but I know that on the 4th gens, a bad sensor would make it difficult to start the car in colder weather.

 

I love the smell of ether in the morning............smells like vict.......never mind

I like using ether on big honkin' diesels but not so much on smaller more "delicate" engines, so no, I have not tried it on this car.

 

Throttle body and IACV have been cleaned, temp sensor has not been checked.

This has been an ongoing problem for 3-4 years but of course if its not cold it acts just fine so it makes really hard to diagnose. Last year we had a very mild winter so it was OK all year. Two years ago it was really cold so one eve. when it was going to get down around 10 I took it to the dealer and left it. Next morning car wouldn't start so they pulled it into the shop but by the time they got around to working on it, it had warmed up and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.

 

Maybe some water in the fuel, random guess. And hai nick! Dope sig pic

 

Watching this one. I have the EXACT same problem. I've replaced the TPS, IACV, battery and MAF. The problem persists.

When you figure it out Im going to have the wife bake you some special brownies.

 

If you like the ether, so will your car - give it a shot. But go easy on it, its only 183 cubic inches. I prefer to have the engine cranking when I spray but it's pretty hard to do when you don't have a helper.

Also, are your spark plugs new or close to it?

 

me too,using ether on big honkin' diesels but not so much on smaller more "delicate" engines, so no, I have not tried it on this car.

 

could it be that it is too cold outside and the car needs a blanket? J/k. Mine does the same but the tranny, doesnt like the cold at all. Once the tranny is at working temp it runs like a baby.

 

Runs like a baby?

 

Parts replaced in last two years - coolant, bank 1 02 sensor, both crank sensors, battery. Will check on when plugs were replaced but find it hard to believe that would be the prob.

 

Actually an intriguing thought - after all, what changes from 33* to 31*? H2O goes from liquid from solid!

Only problem - when this first surfaced it had to be REALLY cold for it to not start. It seems to be getting progressively worse. In another two years who knows - may have to be sunny and 70 before it will start.

Anybody in Florida need a good used 2000 Max?

 

Are you able to get it to start if you give it some gas or start it up with a WOT?

If you smell gasoline after trying to crank it repeatedly, it sounds like it could be a coolant temperature sensor, which thinks it's crazy cold out and tells the fuel pump to inject too much gas, which then creates too rich a ratio for start-up and doesn't allow the car to fire up.

 

Manipulation of the accelerator pedal in any way has no effect.

 

Id try A $50 injector flush. not the junk you put in the tank,a professional cleaning. Really though you are grasping at Straws

 

Start with the basics. Which is missing, fuel or spark.... Id crank it for a bit, pull a plug and see if it is wet or smells like fuel.

 

No gas fumes after a non-start.

Spark plugs, upper intake gaskets, IACV, EGR guide tube and new ECM programs were installed 5 years / 30K ago along with an injector cleaning.

Spark plugs were checked 13K ago and looked like new.

Car recently threw a code - P0335 (crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction) and it has not been fixed yet. Would that cause this?

 

^ Most definitely, P0335 code will cause a no-start. Sounds like you may need a new crankshaft position sensor, but before you do that, have your local Nissan dealer scan your VIN# because some Maximas were covered under a Recall for the crank sensor and both cam sensors.

Good luck.

 

Bam, problem found

 

Wobbly and into walls/furniture?

 

^lol. Gotta be careful what you post in the org, lontar1.

 

 

PROBLEM SOLVED! (I hope)

3 or 4 years ago I was driving home on a dark country road and just SMOKED a deer that leaped directly in front of the car. Threw it about 75 feet. Everything forward of the engine had to be replaced. Well, it would appear that instead of replacing a damaged wiring connector for the crank sensor the body shop just twisted the wires together and taped them up. This is apparently where the problem occurred and thus the "circuit malfunction" code. I guess that when the temp got really cold (anybody that watches "Seinfeld" knows what happens when it gets cold, right? SHRINKAGE!) the wires contracted enough that contact was lost or at least intermittent.

Next time it gets really cold I guess I'll find out for sure.

 

Saw this and just had to. https://i.chzbgr.com/maxW500/7044650752/h13E46D50/

Also can't you run a continunity test on the circuit? A wiring fault would read low and if you checked again in colder weather you'll see a change.

 

Continuity tests aren't very conclusive unless its an open circuit. If a single strand of wire is touching it will have continuity, but once any amperage is passed through it can break the circuit.

 

Have had two mornings with temps in the mid teens since the fix and the car started both times. Fingers crossed, but I think the problem is solved!

 

Yes it wont stop at anything. Have you ever seen a baby when it start walking, non stop walking, or a baby when it starts asking why? why> why? why? that's what I was referring to.

Actually I think its getting older and it needs a wheel chair now.. but other than that is good....LOL

 

Haha wheel chair before high chair??!

Also @OP, any update on the no start if below freezing problem since you fixed the wire harness for the crank sensor?

 

 

If you have a CEL, run codes on it. P0505 gives me that s h i t. I have similar issue. Car fires up, and then stalls immediately but only if the engine is cold. Haven't diagnosed it myself, but the dealership diagnosed bad ECM and IACV ($2000+ repair).


If not, try what everyone else said. Clean the gunk buildup inside the throttle body, clean the MAF, check air filters, spark plugs, etc. Not a tough job at all. I'm no mechanic and did all that before I realized none of that s h i t helped me with my problem. Good luck!

 

Saw that post, also saw it was made two weeks ago and was curious if the fix 'stuck'.

 

Indiana, have similar issue.


2000 maxima (over complicated money pit.) Engine cranks, starts, immediately dies... Changed: Temp coolant sensor, maf,coils, plugs, crank sencor,cam sencor, iav, cleaned throttle body, new o2 sensors, new upper intake manifold gaskets...thinking fuel filter next??

 

Hi.
That happens to me a acouple times.
Start then die, but run good after a second start.

I replaced all the intake gaskets and cleaned the throttle and idle valve.
They were extremely oily and gunked up.

So it's either a vacuum leak or your throttle and/or idle valve.

 

Same Issue here. The VQ doesnt like COLD. it will start but takes a good minute of trying. i think my fuel pump is weak.

mine doesnt start then die, it just sounds like it will never start then out nowhere BAM on.