5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

oil light

Old Mar 2, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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oil light

My oil light flashes then stays on for a second upon start up also Ive noticed a tapping sound when the engine is warm especially when I have put the car in park. Ive heard that this is bad and it might be time for a new engine or some major engine work. I really dont want to get rid of my max I do still like it hopefully I can remedy this so I can keep it.
Old Mar 2, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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The oil light flashing at start up is probably a bad oil filter. It is draining out when the engine is off - something it shouldn't do.

The tapping noise is harder to say. It could be the timing chain, the guides and tensioners are worn. It could be a valve needs shimming. Hard to say.
Old Mar 3, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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oil light for a second on startup is normal, just oil pressure building up. its low for that initial second

noise cold be anything, could be timing chain noise, lifter noise, etc. first thing you need to figure out is if its from the bottom or top end
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 08:03 AM
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It's your lifter. Should have used Lucas during changes. Also, probably should add oil.
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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I have a sound clip, what is the best way to get it on this website?
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 04:46 PM
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youtube

Originally Posted by chrome91
oil light for a second on startup is normal, just oil pressure building up. its low for that initial second

noise cold be anything, could be timing chain noise, lifter noise, etc. first thing you need to figure out is if its from the bottom or top end
^This.

Most likely the noise is the lifters. They're hydraulic (oil).
The oil light is triggered by low pressure. It's normal for a quick flash at start up but much more than that should be investigated. Pull the dipstick out and try to light the oil on the end on fire with a regular lighter.

If it lights you might have a leaking injector diluting the fuel, which is bad.

If it doesnt hopefully there's no fuel and you can continue checks. Oil filter and oil condition/viscosity is first on the list of the continuing checks.
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
Pull the dipstick out and try to light the oil on the end on fire with a regular lighter.

If it lights you might have a leaking injector diluting the fuel, which is bad.

If it doesnt hopefully there's no fuel and you can continue checks. Oil filter and oil condition/viscosity is first on the list of the continuing checks.
An OSHA approved method for detecting a leaky injector.
Old Mar 5, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Muahaha
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 01:24 AM
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Sorry to say but the oil light should not flicker when you start the engine. When mine does, excessive oil consumption happens on some but not all VQ35 engines, I just add another quart of oil and the light flickering goes away.

Quick search for adding heavy gear oil to the engine oil, not a lot mind you but just a small amount to coat everything and quiet down those rattles.
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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wat? oil pressure doesnt just BOOM go up when you turn the key, the light goes on for a second because it senses low initial pressure for a second and then goes off when the pressure builds. my 3rd gen did that, my truck does that, and my Toyotas oil pressure gauge takes a couple seconds to get around the middle when you start it. i think nearly every car ive worked on at work has done it too

i just use ATF to quiet noises, i run a litre usually in everything of mine
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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I've never had a car where the oil light did more than a barely notable flash.
The Maxima has had a few flickers on very, very cold starts, when it was close to oil changing time, but that's it.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:48 PM
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http://s276.beta.photobucket.com/use...35e66.mp4.html
Vid of noise. After driving for ten minutes the car is in P this is the only time i hear it until the fans come on.

My car did sit for a week while i was in florida. It starts up rough on cold starts now also. I just failed inspection after I cleared my P0420 code it said somethimng about a readiness condition.

I also had the oil changed 3 weeks ago I did notice after the change there was alot of noise coming from the engine area.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 07:22 AM.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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Link doesn't work.

Readiness is because you cleared the code, it takes time to go into "ready"state after you clear the faults. You will probably have to fix it if thecode keeps coming back
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 02:13 PM
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The link works for me on my computer, I dont kno how else to do it oh well.

Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
Link doesn't work.

Readiness is because you cleared the code, it takes time to go into "ready"state after you clear the faults. You will probably have to fix it if thecode keeps coming back
I ordered a o2 sensor it should be here tomorrow so i can change it this weekend

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 07:22 AM.
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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Nevermind it was just blocked at my work
Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:05 AM
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My oil light will be illuminated when the engine is started but after a second or maybe even less it goes off. Mind you I park on an upward incline. I used to get the oil light flicker on engine start so now I add a little more engine oil.
Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RR5
My oil light will be illuminated when the engine is started but after a second or maybe even less it goes off. Mind you I park on an upward incline. I used to get the oil light flicker on engine start so now I add a little more engine oil.
I'll say it again: use Lucas during oil changes and use a 20% mix. For the 3.5L, use four quarts of oil and one quart of Lucas. Problem solved. Lucas seems to burn less frequently and since the 5th Gen is known for burning oil, it's your friend.
Old Mar 8, 2013 | 02:49 PM
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http://s276.beta.photobucket.com/use...ca4c4.jpg.html

Name:  2013-03-08165235_zpsdbfca4c4.jpg
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I hope this is the right o2 sensor

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 07:22 AM.
Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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The **** did you buy an O2 sensor for?
Old Mar 9, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertColianni
The **** did you buy an O2 sensor for?
I have the P0420 code so im going to see if its an o2 sensor.
Old Mar 9, 2013 | 06:41 PM
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i believe P0420 is usually a O2 sensor problem no? a few cars at work (not Maxima) have come in with it and a new O2 sensor fixed it
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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Your oil light problem has nothing to do with that.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
i believe P0420 is usually a O2 sensor problem no? a few cars at work (not Maxima) have come in with it and a new O2 sensor fixed it
I had a P0420 code last year which pointed to a problem with the bank 1 pre-cat. Assuming the cat was just not working efficiently, I used anti-foulers on my o2 sensor to get rid of the code. One year later (about 4 hours ago), I found half of the insides from that pre-cat had made it through the y-pipe and were half-clogging the main cat. The other half was completely separated from the walls of the pre-cat and was clogging the outlet between it and the y-pipe. Hopefully, this will explain the rattling noise I was hearing and my loss of power.
Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertColianni
Your oil light problem has nothing to do with that.
I know Im trying to fix both problems the code and the oil light mystery.

Originally Posted by jesseroscoe
I had a P0420 code last year which pointed to a problem with the bank 1 pre-cat. Assuming the cat was just not working efficiently, I used anti-foulers on my o2 sensor to get rid of the code. One year later (about 4 hours ago), I found half of the insides from that pre-cat had made it through the y-pipe and were half-clogging the main cat. The other half was completely separated from the walls of the pre-cat and was clogging the outlet between it and the y-pipe. Hopefully, this will explain the rattling noise I was hearing and my loss of power.
Wow i hope its not that serious for me.

http://s276.photobucket.com/user/cmd...433e0.mp4.html
This is the sound from under the car, it seems this is where the sound is coming from. I also discovered a coolant leak on the passenger side. I recently changed out my radiator this summer it wasn't leaking then but something on the passenger side near the oil filter I think is leaking coolant.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 07:21 AM.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:29 AM
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I don't like that sound. It has the sound of a car low on oil or oil pressure. The first least expensive step I would take is to go and get another oil change and have that oil filter replaced (bring a quality filter with you) and make sure they put the proper quantity of oil in it (4.4 qts). The sound is reminiscent of the initial start after an oil change when the system is charging with oil. That should only last for a split second however.

Maybe an oil pressure test should be the next step after that.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:48 AM
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I noticed that if you car is leaking oil, oil pressure will go down. I found mine was leaking from the oil cooler gasket, replaced it and that solved my timing chain rattle/oil light flicker at startup. Look for leaks to up your oil pressure the right way before going with lucas.

Also check your dipstick for low oil to know that it's either burning/leaking oil, if it's low then you now need to monitor it biweekly like a lot of us 5.5g owners do already.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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I checked this morning my car is leaking antifreeze. What could leak antifreeze on the passenger side of the car, water pump maybe? Hopefully this weekend I can get under there to get a good look, been so busy.

If I let my car run as soon as it hits operating temp it starts to rattle. When the fans come on it rattles less but its still there.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 07:21 AM.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cmd26
I checked this morning my car is leaking antifreeze. What could leak antifreeze on the passenger side of the car, water pump maybe? Hopefully this weekend I can get under there to get a good look, been so busy.

If I let my car run as soon as it hits operating temp it starts to rattle. When the fans come on it rattles less but its still there.
Oil warmer runs coolant through it. Check that.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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I burn oil. When it gets low you hear the engine make a crap load of noise. Another tell tale sign I need to put a 2 quarts in is that the oil light will flicker on start up.

Sounds and light means add oil. I have dealt with this for two years now. I throw in the cheapest dyno I can find. I should look around for used oil and burn that instead.

****ing nissan.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:33 AM
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Mine doesn't burn any oil, none of my Nissans do.

Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Mine doesn't burn any oil, none of my Nissans do.

I envy you!

I have an 02 with 15k more miles than my 03 and it doesn't burn oil or at least not that I notice. I should probably measure when I do an oil change but it is so tell tale when they run low I can just hear it.

I normally would check the dip stick instead of waiting to hear noises but after 2+ years of hear noise add a quart or two method it is just easier to listen then pop the hood.

my friend has the same oil consumption amounts as mine. I add 2-3 quarts of dyno every 5k miles!
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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03 129k
95 247k
08 VK56 77k < Had it's share of problems though, more than the 95 & 03 combined so far.

I did install headers at 39k though. Not sure if that helped any.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
03 129k
95 247k
08 VK56 77k < Had it's share of problems though, more than the 95 & 03 combined so far.

I did install headers at 39k though. Not sure if that helped any.
The current thought is the precat disintegrates and particles get sucked back in and score the walls right? Least on the 02-03?
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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Its not my oil causing the rattle noise whatever is leaking the coolant is messed up.

Originally Posted by FastnFuriousMax
The current thought is the precat disintegrates and particles get sucked back in and score the walls right? Least on the 02-03?
Im hoping its just my o2 sensor dont want headers or to change out the precat.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 21, 2013 at 11:38 AM.
Old Mar 21, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Did you do what I said with 4 quarts and a quart of Lucas? Sometimes I put 4.5 quarts and a quart of Lucas. Either way, you're really dragging this through the mud. Should've been fixed weeks ago.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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Coolant leak on the passenger side could be from the oil cooler. There is also an o ring which has been identified as one source of an oil leak. I had that leak and solved it by replacing that o ring.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertColianni
Did you do what I said with 4 quarts and a quart of Lucas? Sometimes I put 4.5 quarts and a quart of Lucas. Either way, you're really dragging this through the mud. Should've been fixed weeks ago.
nah the oil light doesnt flicker anymore I guess since I was on vacation for a week parked on an incline i think thats what wrong its fine now.
Old Apr 7, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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I park on an incline and since adding the Lucas oil stabilizer I don't notice the oil light flickering as much.
Old Apr 20, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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Apparently my catalytic convertor is done and the hose that leads to my oil cooler is rotted out and leaking.
Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:14 AM
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I cant do anything about my pre cat to expensive right now. I was told my coolant leak is from a hose going into the oil filter im guessing he meant the oil cooler, do I need to drain the coolant out to replace these hoses I discovered there are 2 hoses one on either side of the oil cooler.

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