I'm not a mechanic nor am I mechanically inclined. I maybe started fixing my own cars a year ago. Anyway, on my 2001 Maxima I'm having the dreaded P0505 IACV/ECU blah blah horsecrap. I need to replace the IAC Valve before installing a new/repaired ECU, but I'm not quite sure how to do this. I understand it is attached to the throttle body, just not entirely sure where it is, how to access it, if I have to remove the throttle body, etc..

Anybody have pictures/videos that can sort of guide me through the steps on replacing the IACV? I'm just trying to save a few thousand dollars by avoiding the stealership.

 

look on page EC-433

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2001/

 

I tried that and unfortunately the sketch just isn't detailed enough for me to follow. I still can't find where the hell that is under the hood by looking at that.

 

This might help.



http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html

http://forums.maxima.org/7707984-post5.html

Credit: Search Button

 

I have a picture but this site is a hassle to post pictures, but it's easy to find, start at the battery, next to that is the air cleaner housing which connects to the MAF sensor, then a large (3"-4") diameter hose to the resonator, than another large diameter hose to the throttle body (TB), and under the throttle body is the IACV, you should be able to see the top part of the IACV under that large hose, it's a black plastic top. Anyway, I removed the air cleaner assy, MAF, resonator and hoses to get to the TB. Then there are 4 bolts holding the TB to the engine air intake. There are 2 connectors to the TPS (which is on the drivers side of the TB), disconnect both. You'll also need to disconnect the accelerator and cruise cables that hook to the engine side of the TB, they hook to it like bicycle brake cables. Then the only real hard part is there are 2 coolant cables to the IACV that you can barely see from the top, you have to disconnect both those before you can lift the TB/IACV/TPS assembly out. It probably took me a darn hour to get those 2 hoses off.. PIA just b/c access is very limited. Anyway, once you get em off you can take the whole assembly out and unscrew the IACV from the TB. I cleaned the TB with TB cleaner since it was out, also cleaned the engine air intake. When done just reinstall everything. BTW, don't remove the TPS from the TB cause if you do you'll have to recalibrate it, which is another PIA. That's about it I guess, have fun!

 

Thanks a lot for the help. I will try this as soon as possible. Pictures would be best but I hope I'll be able to figure it out.

 

Old but still useful.

http://forums.maxima.org/members-rid...6k-beware.html

 

It's good to have you active on here again Manny.

 

yeah it be cause he been out cheatin on us eating strange foods and driving non-Nissan cars!

 

Good to be back ...

Found my way back... didn't take long.

 

Very helpful link! Thanks Blue. I think I will be using that one a lot since my little warranty has run it's course and the SES light wasted no time coming on again.

QUOTE=01bluemax;8748318]look on page EC-433

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2001/[/QUOTE]

**typed this up and had to start over being logged out! FYI check remember me newbies! lol
Here's my tale of woe:
Had idling issues back in NOV. throwing multiple emission type codes and replaced the following.
TBS- replaced {I think the IACV was also replaced but I don't have the repair records}
2 coils & plugs- replaced
ECM fried- replaced with after market Rebuilt {still have the fried one}
Cat conv.- replaced.

Cat was replaced around Jan 1 (8weeks) and for about 2 weeks there was a slight smell like burnt cat but only very faint and I attributed it to the new part. Everything was going fine until about 3 weeks ago it started to have this common stall on start issue, with a smell of fresh gas and a little puff of white smoke. I live in NE so it was cold starts.
Went on like that for a while with no other issues but I sensed it was coming...

Few days ago sure enough, smelling the fried plastic under the dash during commute home still no other issues but the starting/stall and even that is not every morning, seems worse in cold.

Yesterday 3-25 noticed gas mileage was poor and then this morning SES light came on and the codes are reading
2X {1pending P0505 IAC} and a P0325 knock sensor.

Luckily it's only just over warranty and the shop I purchased from, who has been fixing, say they will work with me on repairs.

Let me apologize first for not visiting and reporting daily victories of the absence of this offending light for the last 5 weeks! LL!

Any thoughts gurus?

 

I'm no guru (obviously) but I'm having similar problems. I've spent hours of research on the issue, and what I've compiled is that you have to change the ECU and IACV simulataneously (and rumored to have the TPS changed as well, "just in case"). In a nutshell:

Step 1: Unplug negative ground on battery, unplug ALL electric motor mounts.
Step 2: Remove ECU.
Step 3: Remove throttle body (PAIN IN THE ****)
Step 4: Change your TPS and IACV
Step 5: Install throttle body with new sensors and sh*t on them. Plug the damn things in
Step 6: Plug in your motor mounts and battery (not sure which order would be best to do since the car is so godamn prone to electric shorts)
Step 7: Tow the vehicle to a dealership so they can reprogram the ECU and perform idle relearn OR if your ECU doesn't need to be flashed, just jump straight to an idle relearn procedure.

As long as the wires connecting the IACV to the ECU are in good shape, the problem should be fixed. With my luck, my wires are probably fried as well so the above procedure is going to most likely be a waste of time. BUT assuming your luck isn't nearly as bad as mine, you should be okay.

As for your cat converter, it isn't worth it. So what if you're polluting the air? Don't screw with it unless you have to bring it to emission inspections. I doubt that would be causing a rough start, but there's probably a leak somewhere in your exhaust system. Is your car leaking fuel at all?

 

Thanks for the advice Stu! No not leaking any gas but I think during starting thee is some being dumped before it starts. I was taking short trips around town while waiting for the shop to take it in though and I think I fried the ECM a little more because a very strong burning odor, way stronger than before popped up yesterday so I parked her until she goes back to the shop Monday.