Looks like I'm replacing a bunch of wheel studs!!!
03-22-2013, 03:35 PM
#1
Looks like I'm replacing a bunch of wheel studs!!!
Went to throw my new wheels on the front tire lugs were on a heck of a lot tighter than what I remembered. Rears, no problem. Fronts, had to use a breaker bar... on ALL of them! Popped two partially on the driver side (only a 1/4 inch of so, could still get the lugs back on them) and three completely on the passenger side.
The only thing I can think is that the heat from the rotors caused this. Had to hit the brakes hard when a deer ran out a couple weeks ago, from about 105 mph. Could this have been the cause of this? Open for your thoughts and knowledge.
Just so you know, I am doing a BBK once all the parts are in.
The only thing I can think is that the heat from the rotors caused this. Had to hit the brakes hard when a deer ran out a couple weeks ago, from about 105 mph. Could this have been the cause of this? Open for your thoughts and knowledge.
Just so you know, I am doing a BBK once all the parts are in.
03-22-2013, 03:59 PM
#2
So a 1/4" of the wheel studs broke off?? that doesn't seem normal.
If they break off they usually shear off near the hub not out towards the end... thats really weird.
Also one stop from 100mph isn't enough heat to do anything except maybe warp the stock rotors (which aint saying much)
Most of the time studs getting snapped off on street cars are due to the monkey with the 600lb/ft impact gun going nuts on your lug nuts last time you went to a garage.
If they break off they usually shear off near the hub not out towards the end... thats really weird.
Also one stop from 100mph isn't enough heat to do anything except maybe warp the stock rotors (which aint saying much)
Most of the time studs getting snapped off on street cars are due to the monkey with the 600lb/ft impact gun going nuts on your lug nuts last time you went to a garage.
03-22-2013, 04:35 PM
#4
They were tight all the way while loosening. Almost like all 10 of them were cross threaded. I don't have an impact, and I've had these wheels off twice before this instance, never an issue. I'm baffled.
03-22-2013, 05:32 PM
#6
Guys, I'm telling you they were not over torqued. Why would it be only the fronts? I only tighten them as much as the will go by hand. I'm actually more notorious for leaving them a little too loose. What else could cause this?
Well, what if it was more than a few 
. Usually a slower stop though. Rotors don't seem to be warped, assuming I'd feel a slight to moderate vibration when I brake.
. Usually a slower stop though. Rotors don't seem to be warped, assuming I'd feel a slight to moderate vibration when I brake.
Last edited by JWatZ; 03-22-2013 at 05:39 PM.
03-22-2013, 05:35 PM
#7
on that I'd disagree my fine feathered friend.
The stud will stretch until it breaks before you ever over-compress a brake rotor.
Most common reasons for warping rotors (IMO):
1. Braking decent amounts (warm rotors/pads) and then hitting a puddle
2. Improper 'bed in' of the brakes, which can cause glazing, when glazed, pads and rotors just heat each other up rather than doing good braking, this causes the rotors to heat up beyond normal temps. This can go completely un-noticed, and is most common with cheaper rotors and pads.
3. Improperly cleaned mating surfaces (high spots) and/or improper torque sequence
4. Cheap pads/rotors will amplify/accelerate all of the above. Some really cheap rotors will just warp because they suck under normal use.
5th gen is highly susceptible to warping rotors because we over-work the brakes in a lot of normal driving situations.
The brakes on this car are insufficient from the factory.
The stud will stretch until it breaks before you ever over-compress a brake rotor.
Most common reasons for warping rotors (IMO):
1. Braking decent amounts (warm rotors/pads) and then hitting a puddle
2. Improper 'bed in' of the brakes, which can cause glazing, when glazed, pads and rotors just heat each other up rather than doing good braking, this causes the rotors to heat up beyond normal temps. This can go completely un-noticed, and is most common with cheaper rotors and pads.
3. Improperly cleaned mating surfaces (high spots) and/or improper torque sequence
4. Cheap pads/rotors will amplify/accelerate all of the above. Some really cheap rotors will just warp because they suck under normal use.
5th gen is highly susceptible to warping rotors because we over-work the brakes in a lot of normal driving situations.
The brakes on this car are insufficient from the factory.
03-22-2013, 07:14 PM
#8
on that I'd disagree my fine feathered friend.
The stud will stretch until it breaks before you ever over-compress a brake rotor.
Most common reasons for warping rotors (IMO):
1. Braking decent amounts (warm rotors/pads) and then hitting a puddle
2. Improper 'bed in' of the brakes, which can cause glazing, when glazed, pads and rotors just heat each other up rather than doing good braking, this causes the rotors to heat up beyond normal temps. This can go completely un-noticed, and is most common with cheaper rotors and pads.
3. Improperly cleaned mating surfaces (high spots) and/or improper torque sequence
4. Cheap pads/rotors will amplify/accelerate all of the above. Some really cheap rotors will just warp because they suck under normal use.
5th gen is highly susceptible to warping rotors because we over-work the brakes in a lot of normal driving situations.
The brakes on this car are insufficient from the factory.
The stud will stretch until it breaks before you ever over-compress a brake rotor.
Most common reasons for warping rotors (IMO):
1. Braking decent amounts (warm rotors/pads) and then hitting a puddle
2. Improper 'bed in' of the brakes, which can cause glazing, when glazed, pads and rotors just heat each other up rather than doing good braking, this causes the rotors to heat up beyond normal temps. This can go completely un-noticed, and is most common with cheaper rotors and pads.
3. Improperly cleaned mating surfaces (high spots) and/or improper torque sequence
4. Cheap pads/rotors will amplify/accelerate all of the above. Some really cheap rotors will just warp because they suck under normal use.
5th gen is highly susceptible to warping rotors because we over-work the brakes in a lot of normal driving situations.
The brakes on this car are insufficient from the factory.
I would love to install a BBK but after all the work I've just done to the Max and buying a truck I am tapped. That and I just can't convince myself that there is a decent cost/benefit ratio for the upgrade. Some decent rotors and ceramic pads is about as far as I'll probably go.
03-22-2013, 08:14 PM
#9
I've discussed sheared studs before as well. I've snapped probably 3-4 over a few tire changes and removals since getting the car. All have occured on the fronts. IMHO, these newer studs aren't worth crap. Sure, they do their job, but after several installs and removals (and certainly being over torqued.....whether I or OP did so or not, it happens), then the threads stretch, nut goes on, then as they are coming off they seize.
Only solution that saves me from replacing 1-2 studs at a time and having to continue going and buying new 350z nuts from Nissan? I decided to go ahead and replace them ALL that I had not. I also applied anti seize on each stud. No issues since.
I've shared this before, my justification for referring to the front studs as crap is due to the fact this is the ONLY model gen (up to 5.5 gen) I've owned that I've EVER broke studs on. Still have original studs on my 3rd gen (1989) Maxima. Just saying. Design or metal or both in the 5/5.5 that is at the heart of this. IMO,
Only solution that saves me from replacing 1-2 studs at a time and having to continue going and buying new 350z nuts from Nissan? I decided to go ahead and replace them ALL that I had not. I also applied anti seize on each stud. No issues since.
I've shared this before, my justification for referring to the front studs as crap is due to the fact this is the ONLY model gen (up to 5.5 gen) I've owned that I've EVER broke studs on. Still have original studs on my 3rd gen (1989) Maxima. Just saying. Design or metal or both in the 5/5.5 that is at the heart of this. IMO,
Last edited by Chris Gregg; 03-22-2013 at 08:17 PM.
03-24-2013, 10:43 AM
#10
03-28-2013, 10:30 AM
#11
), but have yet to break one. The trick is that I always put a little oil or grease on them if they're dry. I even had to get all new nuts b/c I kept stripping them 
03-28-2013, 10:47 AM
#12
+153453452 I know people that snap off studs without much cause. I over tighten mine every time (too strong for my own good apparently ), but have yet to break one. The trick is that I always put a little oil or grease on them if they're dry. I even had to get all new nuts b/c I kept stripping them
), but have yet to break one. The trick is that I always put a little oil or grease on them if they're dry. I even had to get all new nuts b/c I kept stripping them 
OP: install new studs with new bolts and torque to 85ft and be done... its not a rocket science
never put oil or grease on the threads. You can oil them for removal if you clean them with brake cleaner after.
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