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Bent flex plate? (Video)

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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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Bent flex plate? (Video)


Ok so it's an 03, and the other day I was driving when she shut off on me. I couldn't get it start back up, even with a jump. Turned out my battery was bad. So I replaced and still couldn't get her to start. I would get a loud clunk when the starter engaged. I let her sit over night and for some reason she starte up after trying for 10 minutes with fluttering the gas pedal. So when she started I heard what's in the video. I'm leaning towards a bent flex plate from trying to crank it so much. What do u guys think. Anyone ever experience this before? And I didn't post this is the "I'm new here and have a question" thread. Because this will get more response here. Thanks
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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that is the most unpleasant noise ever..ughhh
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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Rare, but possible. I had a Caravan that lost the flex plate while driving down the road. It didn't make any noise though. Anyway.

I predict either flex plate (still not convinced) or maybe the bendix in the starter is stuck and is still synced with the flex plate as the engine runs? My money is going to be on a bad starter. Pull it off and check it out. A bad starter may also result in battery issues. If starter seems fine, you will at least have a small port to inspect the flex plate to observe for warpage. You could rotate the engine by using a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and slowly turning engine manually.
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Rare, but possible. I had a Caravan that lost the flex plate while driving down the road. It didn't make any noise though. Anyway.

I predict either flex plate (still not convinced) or maybe the bendix in the starter is stuck and is still synced with the flex plate as the engine runs? My money is going to be on a bad starter. Pull it off and check it out. A bad starter may also result in battery issues. If starter seems fine, you will at least have a small port to inspect the flex plate to observe for warpage. You could rotate the engine by using a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and slowly turning engine manually.


Holy ****!!!! It came off while u where driving???? I have a customer that quit drag racing because he seen a flywheel come off and come thru the floor board and slit the drivers throat. He died right there at the tree, But as for the starter still making contact, I thought about that but didn't kno if it was possible. But that makes awhole lot more sense then a belt flex plate. And ya I stuck the breaker bar in there and rotated it. I couldn't see if it was bent or not cause I can't turn it fast enough. I think I'm going to try a new starter first cause that's a whole lot easier then removing the tranny just to check the flex plate. Thanks man

Last edited by Nismonieves; Apr 11, 2013 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Stupid autocorrect
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob1224
that is the most unpleasant noise ever..ughhh
Bro it scares me just listening to it.
Old Apr 11, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
You could rotate the engine by using a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and slowly turning engine manually.
You ever crank over a Detroit like that? Full. Body. Workout.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackThornDemon
You ever crank over a Detroit like that? Full. Body. Workout.
Lmao. This guy.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackThornDemon
You ever crank over a Detroit like that? Full. Body. Workout.
LOL!! No worries, I AM full body! At 345lbs, I actually forget how difficult it is for others to roll over an engine or such. Or forget most people can't reach the pulley with their left hand and top of engine with their right like I can. My apologies to all you little people!
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Nismonieves
Holy ****!!!! It came off while u where driving???? I have a customer that quit drag racing because he seen a flywheel come off and come thru the floor board and slit the drivers throat. He died right there at the tree, But as for the starter still making contact, I thought about that but didn't kno if it was possible. But that makes awhole lot more sense then a belt flex plate. And ya I stuck the breaker bar in there and rotated it. I couldn't see if it was bent or not cause I can't turn it fast enough. I think I'm going to try a new starter first cause that's a whole lot easier then removing the tranny just to check the flex plate. Thanks man

Thats why in most sanctioned races you have to have a "blow proof" bell housing. Prevents clutches from exploding and killing ppl as well.

Pull the crank sensor out and have someone crank the car over. This is how I found my bent flex plate...
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 10:33 AM
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I know this is shot in the dark put have you looked at your crank pulley/ harmonic balancer while the engine is running?

They can go bad causing them to rub the engine housing and power sterring belt making a metal on metal / rubber sound.

Last edited by vq30nismo; Apr 12, 2013 at 10:37 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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Keep us updated OP.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by vq30nismo
I know this is shot in the dark put have you looked at your crank pulley/ harmonic balancer while the engine is running?

They can go bad causing them to rub the engine housing and power sterring belt making a metal on metal / rubber sound.
Nope sure haven't but I will now. But I'm hearing it from where the engine and tranny mate together.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Keep us updated OP.
Ya for sure. Slapping the starter on tonight. Gonna see what happens
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 06:17 PM
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You might had hooked the old starter up to 12v and observed if it stuck in the engaged position. I apologize as I should had included that suggestion.

With the starter out, could you push on the file plate and note any movement?
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Have you by any chance jacked up the front and removed the access cover to the flex plate of the transmission and checked the torque converter bolts tightness?

That will also give you a place to see if anything is loose.
Old Apr 12, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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Ok guys so I slapped the new starter in after work. And Same problem. But I noticed a knock this time. Pulled my dipstick and it was covered horribly in metal shavings. I spun a rod bearing. But luckily for me, I'm an engine machinist. I had already called my parts supplier and I can get a whole engine rebuild kit at 400 bones. That's my cost since its a shop. And that kit includes even the pistons and oil pump. And I don't have to pay for labor at all since I'm the one doing it. So fck it. Rip the motor out and rebuild it at work for 400 bucks. Can't beat that. I'm happy but sad at the same time
Old Apr 13, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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I listened to the video again...I would never had thought that direction given that noise. I always associated a rod bearing with a solid knocking sound. Could it be a main bearing instead? In either case, looks like the issue has been run down. Sorry to hear that though.

If you're going to be doing a rebuild, make sure you're also replacing the valve seals, shoot, maybe even port/polish heads while everything is out and apart?! Go ahead and slap on a phenolic spacer kit. Hell, why not go ahead and do header/y-pipe as well! Make use of build! I mean, clearly there is a reason you're going this route as opposed to just doing an engine swap.

Maybe check out the all motor thread and see what some other guys have done with their engine tore down. Obviously I'd like to see another thread, even if in the All Motor section, about your rebuild...especially if you decide to do some mods.

Last edited by Chris Gregg; Apr 13, 2013 at 07:41 AM.
Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
I listened to the video again...I would never had thought that direction given that noise. I always associated a rod bearing with a solid knocking sound. Could it be a main bearing instead? In either case, looks like the issue has been run down. Sorry to hear that though.

If you're going to be doing a rebuild, make sure you're also replacing the valve seals, shoot, maybe even port/polish heads while everything is out and apart?! Go ahead and slap on a phenolic spacer kit. Hell, why not go ahead and do header/y-pipe as well! Make use of build! I mean, clearly there is a reason you're going this route as opposed to just doing an engine swap.

Maybe check out the all motor thread and see what some other guys have done with their engine tore down. Obviously I'd like to see another thread, even if in the All Motor section, about your rebuild...especially if you decide to do some mods.

Of course ima replace valve seals. I never re use valve seals. An I'ma also deck the block and shave about .030 off my heads for a lil but more compression. And the porting and polishing would just be useless in this case because I'm not increasing how much air will be drawn into the motor. The engine would be stumbling over it self.
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