Car vibrating when braking - rotors
#1
Car vibrating when braking - rotors
My 2003 vibrates when I brake. I think its the rotors because I've never had them replaced. My questions are,
1. How can I check the rotors to see if they are ok? Can this be done w/out removing them?
2. Would it only be the front rotors or the rear ones too, that would need to be replaced?
Thank you
1. How can I check the rotors to see if they are ok? Can this be done w/out removing them?
2. Would it only be the front rotors or the rear ones too, that would need to be replaced?
Thank you
#2
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
If the vibration happens when you brake, especially after the brakes are warmed up and at highway speeds, then you have pad material transfer on the rotor surface which is commonly referred to as "warped brakes". This is felt in the steering wheel and is almost always caused by the front rotors.
Replace the front rotors and pads.
Check the condition of the rear brakes and replace what's necessary.
Bleed the entire brake system - Brake fluid is hydroscopic by nature (absorbs moisture) and should be replaced regularly.
Replace the front rotors and pads.
Check the condition of the rear brakes and replace what's necessary.
Bleed the entire brake system - Brake fluid is hydroscopic by nature (absorbs moisture) and should be replaced regularly.
#5
Well look at it this way, the surface of your rotor should be smooth that you can pass your finger over and you should not feel or see any score lines going around the rotor. If If there is score lines or rust on the surface as if the pad is not applying properly to the rotor, then replace the rotor and regrease caliper guide pins.
#7
REAPLACE!!
If you are doing the job yourself, check the calipers for seized calipers too. If not ask your mech to do so. If you have seized calipers you are just wasting money by putting on just pads and rotors (cause you'll end up replacing them again). Also dont buy cheap **** and then think its going to work like the good stuff....
If you are doing the job yourself, check the calipers for seized calipers too. If not ask your mech to do so. If you have seized calipers you are just wasting money by putting on just pads and rotors (cause you'll end up replacing them again). Also dont buy cheap **** and then think its going to work like the good stuff....
#8
Remove the slider bolt holding the caliper to the rotor and move the caliper up/down (depending on what bolt was removed) then feel the rotor surface with your finger. It should feel smooth.
I thought vibration when breaking was caused by the pads being heated unevenly causing the pad material to warp. Not the rotor since it's a stronger metal.
For blank rotors just get them turned and slap in new pads.
I thought vibration when breaking was caused by the pads being heated unevenly causing the pad material to warp. Not the rotor since it's a stronger metal.
For blank rotors just get them turned and slap in new pads.
#9
Remove the slider bolt holding the caliper to the rotor and move the caliper up/down (depending on what bolt was removed) then feel the rotor surface with your finger. It should feel smooth.
I thought vibration when breaking was caused by the pads being heated unevenly causing the pad material to warp. Not the rotor since it's a stronger metal.
For blank rotors just get them turned and slap in new pads.
I thought vibration when breaking was caused by the pads being heated unevenly causing the pad material to warp. Not the rotor since it's a stronger metal.
For blank rotors just get them turned and slap in new pads.
Again if you have $40 "blank" rotor and you go get them turned (machined) you are just wasting your money that your should be putting towards new rotors. Turning rotors are not the solution, especailly if they are warped. Rotors these days are not like the old. They come with an almost one time use on them. Even if you buy the most expensive Brembo Blanks (I have these right now) I might get 2 sets of pads out of them, and they will be past the min to turn.
My advice, replace your rotors and pads with decent stuff. Brembo blanks and Hawk pads or Akebono. Get your calipers checked out. If they are seized, even one, replace them both. And dont do it right the first time so you dont end up spending even more money down the road. Remember we are talking about your brakes, this is SAFETY stuff. Its not like an oil leak that you can just push to the back...
#10
I guess people don't research before posting anymore.
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...ake_discs.html
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...ake_discs.html
#11
http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphi...ake_discs.html
He is refering to a situation in which you JUST REPLACED THE ROTORS AND PADS. OP says he has brake vibration under brake, but I would assume that his rotors and pads are not brand new his he stated he never replaced them.
YES this article is a great write up about seeding in your brakes, and why you might miss diagnose your "warped" disc's for in proper seeding. I see it all the time. What I think the OP needs a proper diagnostic of what his braking system needs by visiual and mechanical experience.
He is refering to a situation in which you JUST REPLACED THE ROTORS AND PADS. OP says he has brake vibration under brake, but I would assume that his rotors and pads are not brand new his he stated he never replaced them.
YES this article is a great write up about seeding in your brakes, and why you might miss diagnose your "warped" disc's for in proper seeding. I see it all the time. What I think the OP needs a proper diagnostic of what his braking system needs by visiual and mechanical experience.
#12
The rotors are blank thus able to be turned which means spending less money than buying new blank rotors. Then head over to the group deal/buy forum and pick up some brake pads from importRP and call it a day.
After the rotors and pads have been in service for many miles you'll feel vibrations during braking in the steering wheel long before the pad wears down sufficiently enough to cause the squeaking sound associated with the piece of metal that scrapes the rotor during breaking.
But yes, easiest solution is replace the rotors and pads. Check the brake fluid and bleed the calipers according to the FSM and call it a day.
After the rotors and pads have been in service for many miles you'll feel vibrations during braking in the steering wheel long before the pad wears down sufficiently enough to cause the squeaking sound associated with the piece of metal that scrapes the rotor during breaking.
But yes, easiest solution is replace the rotors and pads. Check the brake fluid and bleed the calipers according to the FSM and call it a day.
#13
Thanks for the input, all. I had the pads and rotors replaced today and the shaking is gone. I take it to a local gas station where the guy lets me bring in my own parts. Yes, the issue was the shaking when braking which I thought was caused by warping. Haven't read the article yet.
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