While driving on a hot day 3 weeks ago on the highway the "service engine soon" light came on from what I though my engine was burning oil and oil level was low so I added 2 qts of synthetic walmart brand

Besides me not checking oil level weekly and that my last oil change was 7+ months ago (only at 4.3k right now with synthetic)

There was a tiny oil leak that never added to much oil on my parking spot till I added the 2 qts of synthetic now the leak is getting worse.

Went to the shop to see if its the lower oil pan and it was.... ordered a pan on ebay for $50 last week and plan on local shop on replacing it next week since the bolts are rusty like hell... mechanic said it should take two hours since the bolts are rusty.

I personally think it should take no longer than 1 hour of work. What do you guys think????

 

I think you should be doing this yourself...

If you can change your own oil, you can do this.

 

Get a big can of PB Blaster and do it yourself. 2hrs to remove is likely what a shop would charge because an hour just doesnt get them the profit they need. Likely adding the syn oil sprung a few other leaks as well. Go back to conventional oil

 

I agree - while this job shouldn't take 2 hours, with bolts rusted to $hit it could possibly be a headache. One or more heads snap off and its no longer 2 hours. If you change your own oil - you should do this yourself. My oil and Tranny pans were very very rusty when I replaced them. You could have put a screw driver through both with ease

 

Go to the hardware store and buy an easy out kit. Probably Dealer to get some bolts...or take one out and get some at hardware store. Replace the rusty ones anyway.

It is always good to have an easy out kit around.

 

Hi,
I had to change this recently. nissanpartsasap.com sells the OEM oil pan for 83 dollars. The bolts, some of them are varying lengths, so you just cannot go to the hardware store and purchase them. They run 3.15 each from the dealership.
I used a felpro gasket as well, but nissan suggests just using the grey permatex.
Use PB blaster, some heat and new oil and oil filter, you should be done.
Another surprise is the extra 0.5 quart of oil the pan can hold which you can never empty during the regular oil change!!!!

 

careful using a torch around a leaking oil pan, the thought of an oil fire getting into the oil pan always seemed like a bad possible outcome.

permatex is always better than a formed gasket (except where its holding pressure like a head gasket), especially cheap ones like felt/cork

 

Are you sure its the oil pan leaking and not the oil cooler o-ring? It can be mistaken for a oil pan leak easily. The bolt heads being rusted shouldnt affect them comming out since the upper pan is aluminum, Probably just surface rust from salty roads. Good luck!

 

Also a note on this topic some dont consider, if you have or plan on getting headers, specifically Cattman, then buying a 4th gen lower oil pan is the best option. The reason? Simply because the oil drain faces the crank/passenger side of the vehicle as opposed to facing the rear of the vehicle on the 5/5.5 gens. The 4th gen pan makes oil changes MUCH easier!