yankeefan13

First, I searched already for a thread like this and there wasn't one exactly with these symptoms. So, the car starts O.K when its cold (it starts but drops to around 200 rpm idle then back to normal) but when the car warms up it starts then dies and will only start if I give it gas. There is no CEL either so I am not sure what this could be. The battery and alternator were recently changed, too.

01maxium

Try cleaning the MAF, there is a thread somewhere on here that shows you how to clean it.

Update***
Here is the link http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html

Costee

You may also consider looking your knock sensor over. I'd suggest that you scan the car nonetheless.

2damax

I had the same problem. Solved it with a junkyard throttle body. Pretty easy.

Costee

Good to know.

yankeefan13

I actually just cleaned the MAF recently so I don't think thats the problem.

Ill probably have to get a TB then. Did your car show any CEL before you changed it? Mine doesnt have any still.

2damax

Mine had no light BUT I scanned it anyway and p1800 was pending.

yankeefan13

Alright thanks, ill try scanning it again.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Dies after a hot restart? Odds are the throttle body is dirty. Had the same exact problem with my first '02, cleaning the throttle body completely cured it. There is a write-up, do a search, it isn't something you want to mess up. Unless you really want to spend the money on a new TB.

yankeefan13

Yeah, the only time it doesn't start up is when the car is warm (after it has been started in the last hour or something). The problem really exacerbated in the last month or so when the weather was getting warmer out. I was going to clean the TB and have seen the write-ups on how to do it, I just am a little nervous on screwing it up big time.

Costee

Be reminded to unplug the battery before you work on the TB.

yankeefan13

Yep, of course, but I came into another problem while trying to clean the TB: the hose from the air intake to the TB will not come loose (side of the TB entrance). I have tried every way of trying to take it of but it will not budge (and before anyone asks, I did take the clamps off) Any tips here? I really do not want to take the whole intake out again to get at it. Thanks.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Don't forget to pull off the IAC valve and clean that along with the portion if the throttle body. A lot of gunk builds up in the passage between the throttle body and IAC valve.

yankeefan13

Yeah, so I did get the air intake hose off the TB, but i couldn't get the whole Tb off cause of the connector to the IACV holding it on. Still though, I cleaned some of the TB (what I could get at without taking it off completely). I tried disconnecting that harness but is near impossible. I do not want to pull on the actual wires of the harness obviously, but the harness wont disconnect.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

You should be able to unbolt the IAC valve from the throttle body without disconnecting the harness. I did it this way last time I cleaned by IAC valve and throttle body. Just be careful with the gaskets/o-rings to not drop them and lose them in the engine bay.

yankeefan13

You mean the two Phillip screws right? If so, they are rusted out, but I'll try with pb blaster again; just not much room to work in around there.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Yes. You will have to take off that part of the intake to get to them sufficiently. If they are rusted you may want to try tapping a phillips screwdriver into the screws with a hammer to try and break them free.

If you know someone with a "impact screwdriver" that would be your best bet in freeing the screws. Keep in mind you'll have to replace them and I believe you can find something suitable in an allen wrench type bolt so you don't have to worry about potentially stripping the screws next time.

BTW...if you don't remove the IAC valve you won't be able to clean that passage at all and may have a continuing issue with the dying after warm start.

yankeefan13

Alright, thank you.