I am about to replace my front control arm's and I just found these on RockAuto's website Was wondering if anyone has tried them? I couldn't find anything on the Org when I searched the part # Seems pretty tempting for $79 a side.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...015&cc=1431961

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=6bkq83np23vukdl4ru0d54rmc3

 

I purchased a set from rock auto about 1k miles ago, swapped out both sides...no problems feels great, nice and stiff, no more knocking or wandering from worn bushings.

 

Same here. I just installed the same ones about 1k ago. Feels great so far.

 

I have exact feeling, although I installed only on driver side but all the noise is pretty much gone. except some rotor shield scrap noise I need to fix.

 

Moog has always been on the upper end of quality. Replacing the lca's makes a world of difference on how the car drives and feels. I'm actually surprised that the Moogs are cheaper than the other brands. Perhaps someone else can enlighten as to why...

 

I'm planning on ordering the dorman control arms rockauto, they are only about 100 for the pair. I would prefer the moog, but I'm on a pretty tight budget.
Anyone tried these?

I also found it odd that moog was the mid-priced part.

 

Does it come with all the bushings and ball joint? I think a bushing is missing in the pic.

 

I'm pretty sure they come with ball joints and bushings, I would see why it wouldn't be a direct bolt up right?

Sounds like the Moogs are a good buy, I don't know why some of the other brands are more but I'm always down to save a few on some quality.

Another things that I'm wonderings is there are actually other Moog control arms from Rockauto with a different part number. This one is $120 vs the $79. Can anyone chime in on to why such a big price difference on this.

At the bottom http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

The MOOG R-series is a less expensive brand than the Premium/problem solver series. The MOOG R-series uses the same components as the OEM manufactured products. In other words, no powered brass material is used to make the components of the ball joint. The problem solver line is to fix what Moog considers manufacturer deficiencies. Also no Zerk fittings = Non Sealed Boots Zerk Fitting does not mean it's better or will last longer

 

I will likely be buying the cheaper version. My OEM lasted a long time and thats with oil leaks on them. I see no need for the improved series.

 

Makes sense, but I think I will just stick to the cheaper version as well. This car has been a money pit this year.

Also think I'm going to tackle the job by myself now and save on labor. Do you think its possible without a compressor and air tools? Just a big 1/2 wrench and a cheater bar? I will be buying or renting a ball joint tool as well as a new dremel or sawzal just incase I run into seized bolts.

 

All jobs are possible without air tools. Just harder. No need for ball joint tool imo. Pry bar should remove the old ball joint. There is a youtube video showing it by an old member from here. I THINK his name here was Pmohr.

Edit: I said this assuming new LCA comes with balljoint installed. If not I would pay a shop $20 to do it.

 

The moog lca's come with ball joint and bushings installed both types

 

Sweet, good feedback here.. I'll be ordering them tomorrow.

 

Let us know how the install goes. Also how they hold up. I might be needed control arms soon.

 

I ordered the same Moog control arms about a month ago and install them when i installed my H&R springs and new shocks and the control arms work great and look like they were build sturdy.

 

This would pretty much be the same on a 5th gen correct? The FSM has a lot more steps involved, I'd much rather try it this way..

 

I just skimmed the video with the sound off, looks the same as my 03. Only thing I can think of... if you don't have an impact gun and a vice, take the nut off the control arm pin while it's on the car. Also, I got lucky and used a torch and flare nut wrench for the ball joint nut and did it without removing the axleshaft. But if you strip it you are going to have a bad time.

 

What was the torch for? I am about to tackle this and trying to get as much info as possible.

 

If you heat it up it will expand and make for easier removal. You can't get a socket in there so to prevent rounding the nut, I took every precaution I could.

 

yea i stripped that balljoint nut, but i used a dremal n cut that nut in half lol

 

I know I will probably run into a stripped bolt or two. Do you think a cheap rotary tool from Harbor Freight ($22) like this would cut stripped bolts on our cars, or do I need the real deal name brand Dremal for like $80. http://www.harborfreight.com/variabl...kit-68696.html

 

Might work but would probably take forever. I would use something with a little more torque like this angle grinder ($14) with a cut-off wheel. http://www.harborfreight.com/angle-g...-12-69645.html

 

Most likely that will do, i used a BlacknDecker one that i bought about 7 yrs ago. Anything that can do variable rpms is good, cause Haborfreight also has a cheaper $8 one n that spins so slow u cant even cut anything.

 

Don't cheap out on LCAs / ball joints if you're lowered, guys. I replaced mine twice. I have less than a year on my current ones and there is already play on one of the ball joints. They were cheepos (don't remember the brand). I should have kept my original LCAs, just replaced bushings and gotten Moog ball joints pressed in.

 

Nice, I think I'll try the variable rotary tool from Harbor Freight then.

 

heat what up? The nut?

 

Yes

 

If the bolt is the same metal as the nut then it would also expand defeating the purpose . No?

Also any secret to getting out the 22mm bolts without a shop impact driver? just tried with about three feet of breaker bar (bar +pipe) and they are not budging. tried bp blaster but hard to spray it that it soaks in. Any ideas?

 

I don't know the exact science of thermodynamics, but heating it will help. You are right though, direct the torch tip to the sleeve(nut). Same with the others. If you mean the 3 or 4 bolts that go into the aluminum control arm pin, I would be afraid of snapping them with any longer of a breaker bar. Let the pb soak in and apply heat for a minute and try again to break it free. I used an impact on high and it was hard to turn the whole way. I kept spraying lube to keep it cool as I backed them out.

 

there does not seem to be a good way to get the bp blaster to soak in. Unless i turn over the car.

 

hah, that's one way to do it. But it will soak up in there if you just spray it a few times. PB blaster wicks into the cracks.

 

I have a propane torch -a full size-should i heat the bolts and then try to remove them when they are still very hot ? dont want to snap them and then not be able to get them out of the hole. Also if i heat them should i get new bolts? heating steel usually damages its strength.

 

Heat around the bolts, a full size propane will work fine. Don't burn anything but heat it for 30+ seconds and go at it with the breaker bar. Once it cracks it should keep turning without applying heat. And I wouldn't worry about a little propane torch heat affecting the integrity of the steel.

 

+1 for the Moog LCA's. It was much faster and easier than doing the ball joint and bushings separately. And the steering is much tighter.

I used MAP gas and laid it on there for a good 5 minutes. Every time I did this, the bolt came right off. 30 seconds isn't quite long enough to get good penetration with the heat.

 

just tried with mapp gas for 5 minutes. no luck will let it cool and try again Maybe the expanding with contracting from the heating and cooling will loosen it up but I have a feeling i will need to pay a shop $125 to install.

 

You could always try an angle grinder. Just be careful you don't dig into the steering knuckle with it.

 

Use your leg or legs on the breaker bar. You will break them loose. Just be careful of what you may hit when they let go.

 

I tried that every time!
Should I cut off the bolt heads? how hard would it be to get the bolt stems out?

 

Its not the
nut on the ball joint that wont open. It's the 22mm bolts that wont budge.