MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I just got both Moog Control Arms today off eBay.. Saved me a $15 compared to Rockauto. I will hopefully be installing these this weekend if I have time.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Just replaced LCA's with the Moog's and let me tell you, what a PITA.. I didn't have any air tools and could only get the car so high which defiantly held me back, and since I didn't take the axle's out, I could only use the open end of the wrench, which easily stripped the bolts. Had to cut them with the rotary tool, oh and btw the Harbor Freight one for $22 worked good. Took me about 7 Hours, Lol I know...

Over all I am happy with the feel of the LCA's, it tightened the front end up and eliminated most road noise.. I think I'm ready for an alignment and possibly buying a camber kit to help improve ride quality. If anyone has a camber kit installed please let me know if it helps. thanks

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Camber bolts not needed there worthless unless lowered.

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MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I'm lowered, so does that make it worth it?

sitting on Tokiko Illuminas Adjustable.

Max_Gator

You probably can't get aligned correctly without a camber bolt kit.

bennuss

Which bolts did you have to cut? The nut on the ball joint or the other bolt heads?
I am just wondering if I cut off the bolt heads how hard would it be to get out bolt stems after the lca is removed with a vice grip? I tried heating, hammering, and a very long pipe, after soaking the bolts for a week straight with bp.

Mikel81

I would say if you cut those bolts you are just removing any hope of getting them out. If they don't turn with heads and haven't broken or rounded, what makes you think you can turn them with a vice grip?

Which ones are you having trouble with? The three on the control arm pin? Can you take the big nut off the end and work the control arm forward and off without removing those?

bennuss

[QUOTE=Mikel81;8823394]I would say if you cut those bolts you are just removing any hope of getting them out. If they don't turn with heads and haven't broken or rounded, what makes you think you can turn them with a vice grip?
Yes those but also the two by the latge bushing. Did not try to remove the one on the pin end. Very often if the head is gone the main point of friction is removed. Rust particles are larger than iron so if rust formed its like having the bolt swell and pull against the head. But your proba ly right. Will break down and pay a shop the 125 I was quoted for labor here in brooklyn ny.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Yea man, don't try and saw off the bolt heads, since they're your source of getting it off. All I cut was the bolt where the ball joint is, 19mm I believe.

All the other bolts, I took a 22mm wrench with a breaker bar about 3 feet long and layed on my back and used the power of my legs.. I also had to hold on to parts of the car so I wouldn't slide. I mean you need a lot of force so don't be afraid. If you do this I bet they will come off, also make sure you loosen the 27mm bolt before removing the LCA assembly. This will make it a lot easier since you will need to reuse this on the new one.

If worse comes to worse and you need to do any cutting, you will want to cut it vertical, the same way the thread is pointing.. Once you cut through it then you have weakened the nut where all you should need is a wrench or some vice grips.. Vice grips will actually clamp more force on the thread, so don't tighten the grips too much when trying to loosen.

bennuss

Ok you've given me some confidence to make a third attempt as soon as the heat wave here in NYC breaks.
Which one is the 27mm ? The nut on the control arm pin?

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I bet its hot there, holy..

So its the only 27mm on each control arm pin, bracket, whatever its called. Let me know how it goes.

DjHackStyle

Just remove the axle nut and the strut bolts and pull the axle out of the way and put an impact on it and torch it and cut the nut off. I just did this on sunday, i would have never gotten my nut off the way ur gonna try, but my friends car did come off that way.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Nope not enuff drop there unless you over 2"

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cjandura

iTrader: (3)

I was running s techs before and it aligned just fine without camber bolts

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MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

ok well now that the LCA's are new, I'll skip the camber kit and just align it, I should feel quite an improvement overall since the bushings were shot.

bennuss

its not the nut on the ball joint. its the 22mm bolts that wont budge.

Max_Gator

I have eibachs and illuminas. They don't usually check camber on our cars since not adjustable.

I had excessive wear on the edges of my tires because of negative camber from lowering.

Once I got the camber bolts th at problem was eliminated.

Tires can be expensive.

Max_Gator

Like someone else said, put a long pipe on a breaker bar, lay on your back, hold on and push with your legs. You may even have to smash it a few times. I always duct tape the pipe to the bar so it doesn't come off.

Make sure you go the right direction...

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the edges on mine are bad too, is that from my previous bad LCA's or because I don't use a camber kit? Or both maybe? I need 2 new front tires by the end of the year forsure tho.

bennuss

The right direction would be with the pipe sticking out towards the drivers side -pulling back towards the rear of the car.

bennuss

So I finally got to a shop and had the moog lca put in. Only did one side for now. The grinding noise that i had on turns is gone ( this was the reason why i changed it and the ball joint was noticeably bad) but now my extremely smooth ride is gone. in fact i now hear what i think is loud road noise and there is a noticeable grind scrape hard to describe feel that is there with every wheel rotation . I can feel it through the gas pedal. Any ideas?
(why cant i find a decent mechanic here in Brooklyn who doesn't believe in just changing parts until the car seems fixed.)

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have an idea.. If it makes noise quite a bit when the wheel is turning, maybe a metal on metal grind? I would take off your tire, the side that you hear the noise check the metal plate that protects the inside of the brake and rotor. Make sure its not touching the rotor, if it is then simply bend it where you need to..

hope this helps, let me know how it goes.

Max_Gator

Just fyi...I have a personal rule.... never pull toward you on something that is going to let go like that. You are just asking to lose teeth. Especially with a loose pipe.

Max_Gator

Could be both. From what I've seen, many people here lower but neglect fixing camber. That causes tire wear. Really, just a camber bolt can fix it and I'd recommend it.

bennuss

It isn't the dust plate. Not a metal on metal. Feels like I am driving on a rough paved road not completely unpaved. Also sounds like that and I am feeling it through the pedals. Started immediately after the lca was changed.
Went back to the mechanic and he put it up on the lift, put in into drive and you can feel the roughness through the gas pedal. He claims the bearing is starting to go. Says it is dry and you can see the rust coming out of it. Speculated that i did not feel it until the lca which is now stiffer was changed. (This does not make sense to me since you can feel it on the lift)

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

I would say bearing or axle?

bennuss

Anyway to know besides for waiting and seeing which gets worse?. The bearing has no play that can be felt.
Do you think it is possible that the half shaft slipped and is not seated properly in the trans? The mechanic initially was trying to open the axle nut (which he failed thank goodness) till i showed him that he can get the ball joint nut open with removing the axle.