Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I know there are at least a few guys who have the Stillen RSB. One of the issues with this bar is the way it mounts...which requires the ebrake cable to hang loose along the trailing arms. The Stillen brackets can rub the cable and (for me at least) the cable rattles against the brackets.



There are two options the fix this issue. It depends on where you have your Stillen brackets mounted on the trailing arm. If the brackets obscure the stock bolt hole to secure the ebrake cable on the trailing arm, then you will need to do something along what I did (write up to follow).

If the Stillen brackets do NOT obscure the stock ebrack bolt holes, then you can get a peice of small metal rod (approximately 1" long), a longer 10mm bolt, and just re-attach the cable using the metal rod as a "spacer."

Here is what I've done.

I measured the distance between the bolt which holds the abs sensor line in place on the traling arm and where the ebrack cable bracket is located. I measured right about 2 1/2".

So, I took some scrap sheet metal I had and cut two 3" long peices about 3/4" wide. I placed them back to back so I could bend them both at the same time and equally. I proceeded to drill a hole at each end.



Here are some images of the bolts, washers, and nuts I used. I have SOOO many extra bolts and things. The bolt was short 10mm, standard Nissan. The "washer" I used on the bolt is the plastic insert used on the valve cover washers off a 3rd gen. The Nut has a washer built onto it which has a rubber coating. I installed the nut backwards so that the rubber coating faced the Stillen bracket. Not much point doing all this if I just end up having another peice of metal that rubs and rattles against the bracket! For those of you plasti-dipping fools out there (LOL!), you could just coat the washer side of the nut and accomplish the same thing!







I removed the bolt holding the abs line bracket from the trailing arm. I then installed the end of my fabbed bracket onto the ebrake cable. Then I attached the opposite end at the abs bolt point. I did have to adjust the bends on my backet to suit the distance between the bolt points and ensure the cable remained close to the trailing arm and held up as high as possible (keep it from dangling).



Now, you could do this same thing, but use one of the bolt points from the Stillen bracket. Doesn't matter. I just hate messing with the Stillen Brackets. If someone is installing a Stillen bar for the first time, perhaps go ahead and plan to do this using one of the brackets bolt points.