Ok so long story short car overheated because of leak in radiator and primary fan cutting out. SES came on after stalling out and trying to start the car. The thermostat did not indicate that it was overheating, so I thought it was chattering and stalled out because of a fuel issue. Car was below the E on the fuel gauge. I let it sit at the gas station, put water and gas in and drove it home with it driving kinda weird.

Got the SES light checkd out and it was the cam sensors, changed them and it went off car was back to driving normally. Of course I changed the radiator and the fan shroud. A few days the the SES light came back and the car felt like it had a misfire. It was the p0300 and cylinder 5 misfire I changed the coil on 5 and 5 of the 6 plugs, gapped correctly. The plugs that were in there didn't even look bad but I changed what I could anyway. I didn't do the number 4 because I didn't feel like removing the whole upper manifold. I just removed the intake elbow to access 5 and 6. Car drove great again.

A few days later once again the car is driving horrible. SES light back on and no power, motor sounds funny, etc. It's p0138 and p0300. Are these related? According to the Autozone print out it looks like the O2 sensor can be triggering the p0300. Cn an O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 2) really cause the car to run THAT bad???

CAR is 02 SE 6 spd with 64k miles now. Thanks

 

from my limited searching P0138 is bank one, sensor 2. Sensor 2 is the after cat sensor, so no it wont make your car run that bad. In fact, it doesnt even really matter but its possible that your misfire has led to the O2 code. Since you just overheated you should start by checking your oil for water and if you dont see any water in the oil, use a hydrocarbon tesing kit for coolant to test for combustion gasses in the coolant.

 

Oil has been changed, as well as coolant, and they have been checked. No issues. Like I said since the overheat the car has run great. It has to be an electrical issue not a blown head gasket or something.

The SES light has even come off and the car has run fine, then the next day it's driving horrible and the SES is back on blinking like crazy.

 

Thanks for the help(1 person). It was the # 4 coil I thought the #4 position was where #1 is. But in fact my #4 coil turned out to be bad. Previously it was #3. But the actual cylinder misfire wasn't indicated like it was before.

 

I have the infamous PO300 too, still haven't figured it out after almost 3 years and a second engine no luck. Anyways I replaced both my upstream O2 Sensors just recently with Bosch, Bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1. I was actually hoping this would get rid of my code but nope. It did help my rough idle a bit but I still get a slight rough idle with the PO300. Bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 are PO420 and PO430.. these won't cause the car to run bad, its just for your cats.

 

I just got mine out of the shop from a P0300. The guy said first thing when I told him the code and symtoms (jerky, weak, and sluggish and it happened in less than 3 days) that may need at least 1 new coil (to the spark plug). Turns out also both valve covers were leaking which I knew I had an oil leak. 112K miles. So I got new plugs, 2 VC gaskets, and 1 coil, cost me a little over $ 600. No light now, runs good.