JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

I feel like such a noob for not being able to figure this out. My brake pedal is traveling all the way to the floor, weak braking power.

I swapped all 4 rotors and pads all around. Front calipers I compressed with a c clamp, rears I removed and twisted clockwise to compress with a wrench (don't have the socket/tool). Bled the system in the following order: rr, rl, fr, fl (furthest from MC to the closest). After experiencing the issue the first time, I bled the system again... scolding my wife thinking she may have let off the pedal before I told her to, sacking air back in. The issue persists.

I did some searching around and found a few 4th gen issues that were similar, and everyone says booster or MC. This issue did not persist before doing the work today, so I doubt either of them blew in the process of changing rotors and pads. Thought maybe I messed up a line, but they all look good and I can't find a noticeable leak. I've almost used an entire bottle of brake fluid in the process here as well, levels are fine.

What am I missing here? Never had an issue like this pop up after a such a simple procedure. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

2damax

Did you start the car and pump the brake pedal and see if the brakes worked in the driveway or anything?

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Yup, and for a drive... both times after bleeding. Brakes catch strong, then my foot sinks to the floor and braking power disappears. Have to pump to come to a stop. It's like the lines start at full pressure and the pressure goes away, like there's a leak. I've checked and I can't find one.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

I'm wondering... would ABS have anything to do with this issue? Should I have disconnected the battery before bleeding? Going to give this a shot tomorrow, try the pattern from the FSM, and report back. Last thing I can think is to vise grip three lines at a time and test each caliper/line on its own. Open to other thoughts and suggestions if you have any. Thanks

2damax

I have only replaced one caliper and I never bled the car so I don't have much experience here. I have read lots of threads of people that bleed over and over and don't solve the problem. Hopefully someone else chimes in. Would be a coincidence if the MC starts leaking at the same time you change your brakes.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Too much of a coincidence, I still doubt it. If I had the issue before and it worsened after, okay, maybe the seals are shot.

DjHackStyle

Theres some information and a great document for diagnosing a low pedal in the thread i started

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-suck-wtf.html

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Just finished reading through. Thanks for sharing. Ever get that straight? Answer on the ABS? Just curious...

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

For future reference, if anyone finds this in a search. Problem solved!

Today I pulled both ABS fuses and my negative terminal off the battery (better safe than sorry). Followed the same bleed procedure as my second attempt. The RR caliper shot nothing but air on the first three compressions (ABS pump tied to that line?). The others were good, straight fluid and no bubbles. I followed this pattern: RR, LF, LR, RF.

No more soft pedal! She's braking solid and hard now.

da night ryder

iTrader: (2)

Nice you got the problem solved. I used this when I do brake jobs and I know I have to bleed the system. Works great.

DjHackStyle

I havent fixed my brake problem i juss deal with it. tell me which exact fuses u pulled and was the car off? Is the switch supposed to be half way position and not running?

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Under the hood, right front fuse box (along fender behind driver side headlight). Two 40's for ABS (top left on the panel iirc). Pulled them and disconnected my battery (negative terminal).

Had the wife pump the brakes until the pedal was firm and wouldn't go anymore, loosened the bleed valve while her foot on the brake. It hits the floor, I tightened the valve, she pumped and pumped again... yada yada yada. Repeat until all the air bubbles are gone. Keep checking the reservoir and top off as needed. Used 3/4 of a bottle of DOT 3.

Hope that was thorough enough. Oh, I also bleed with a hose on the valve, going into a cup of DOT 3. OR in my case, a shot glass. Easy to see bubbles that way.

DjHackStyle

Ok but the ignition switch was in the off position? Or the on position? Isnt the pedal hard to press down with the car not running?

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Off. And (here goes your minds in the gutter) as you pump it it does get harder. Once it's as stiff as it will get, release the valve. Retighten the valve, foot off the pedal, pump it up again.

DjHackStyle

Ok thanks, ive been bleeding with the car running, i dont know if that made a difference.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Hey OP. Not being an a$$ but why did you bleed the brakes to begin with? Sounds like you just did pads and rotors so if you didn't expose the system to air
you don't need to bleed.

2damax - you definitely should have bled the brakes if you changed a caliper. I'm really shocked you had working brakes if you didn't.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Think I said in the first post, I removed the two rears. It was too much of a b**** it compress with it still attached. Investing in the tool if I ever need to do the rears again, wrenching it kind of sucked. You not being an a** by any means.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Ah my bad, I missed that part. Glad you got it all fixed up.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

glad you got it fixed, i've never had this issue with ABS but they do say you are supposed to disable it to bleed the system.

however, if you are bleeding with the key off, it really should not matter.

2damax

I think I was suppose to but I just bled that one caliper and I got lucky I guess. I actually let it bleed to much and basically flushed the old fluid. I didn't clamp the line and had trouble putting it back on.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

I was, with the key out of the ignition... twice. Guess it does matter or I just have crap for luck. Never had to disable and abs system to bleed brakes on any car until now. I'm sure just pulling the battery or fuses on there own would of been enough (one OR the other) but I wasn't chancing it.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Could also be possible that you took in a gulp of air in the master cylinder, I've had it get low before but appear ok, there's a really fine line where you can still have fluid in the master but it will pull air in, you really have to keep it at about 1/2 full at all times. i had that problem come up on the G35 when I did it's calipers. Had to bleed it over and over until i finally got all the air out. But they do say ABS can make a difference, so I guess it's something to be aware of, if nothing else

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

That right rear caliper is still blowing my mind. The first two times I bled, I had a little bubble here and there. After the ABS/battery pull, three full brake pedal compressions of nothing but air. Maybe it was all coincidence... who knows. Never seen anything like it before, but this is only my 3rd Nissan car, 2nd I did a full four corner swap.

murphys_law

Good to know, I would have done exactly what you did. Never knew the ABS would cause problems bleeding the brakes with the car off..