Check engine light FLASHING, car sputtering
07-22-2013, 03:53 PM
#1
Check engine light FLASHING, car sputtering
Happened for about 2 minutes then it stopped, check engine light was always on as the cat needs to be replaced.
What causes this? Please what parts to buy? I need to get my car running good.
What causes this? Please what parts to buy? I need to get my car running good.
07-22-2013, 04:05 PM
#3
07-22-2013, 04:07 PM
#4
http://forums.maxima.org/infiniti-i3...king-i30t.html
Don't know if it applies to my car but a engine misfire.
So I need to get the coilpacks replaced?
I have 198k on a 2002
Don't know if it applies to my car but a engine misfire.
So I need to get the coilpacks replaced?
I have 198k on a 2002
07-22-2013, 04:08 PM
#5
You need a code reader. The check engine light flashes when there is a serious problem. The code will still be stored in the computer. If you can't get someplace to have the codes read for you, then you will need to buy a code reader. They are fairly cheap anymore.
07-22-2013, 04:14 PM
#6
I'm scared to drive the car then.
What's a good one to buy?
07-22-2013, 04:21 PM
#7
The cheapest route (if you have a smart phone and some time) would be to order a BT OBD2 adapter and download one of the OBD2 programs available for your smart phone. Lacking that, just go to the auto parts store and buy the cheapest OBD2 reader they have. You just need the codes. And no, misfiring will not blow an engine. But if that light is flashing you have a serious problem. I'm not going to tell you it's safe to drive the car. You may be fine or you may make the problem worse.
07-22-2013, 04:25 PM
#8
The cheapest route (if you have a smart phone and some time) would be to order a BT OBD2 adapter and download one of the OBD2 programs available for your smart phone. Lacking that, just go to the auto parts store and buy the cheapest OBD2 reader they have. You just need the codes. And no, misfiring will not blow an engine. But if that light is flashing you have a serious problem. I'm not going to tell you it's safe to drive the car. You may be fine or you may make the problem worse.
07-22-2013, 05:37 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 83
P0133 - Heated Oxygen Sensor I Circuit Slow Response (Bank1)
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected
P0572....Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low****
The first three I found on maxima.org. The last one I found it as a generic code for many brands. So it may or may not be correct. Hope it helps.
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected
P0572....Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low****
The first three I found on maxima.org. The last one I found it as a generic code for many brands. So it may or may not be correct. Hope it helps.
07-22-2013, 05:56 PM
#11
P0133 - Heated Oxygen Sensor I Circuit Slow Response (Bank1)
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected
P0572....Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low****
The first three I found on maxima.org. The last one I found it as a generic code for many brands. So it may or may not be correct. Hope it helps.
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected
P0572....Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low****
The first three I found on maxima.org. The last one I found it as a generic code for many brands. So it may or may not be correct. Hope it helps.
07-22-2013, 06:53 PM
#13
The misfire code caused the SES light to blink, I'm sure you were going over 50mph when this happened. Although it is safe to baby the car to a shop to get fixed but if your worried then get it towed. Get a coil for cyl 5 and you won't misfire then fix the rest of the issues.
Last edited by ShippedOut; 07-22-2013 at 07:10 PM.
07-22-2013, 06:59 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
This is what you get for ignoring a SES light and never checking it. Get a coil or cylinder 5. Probably gu na need to do rvc if you havent and certainly the gasket.
Then fix the rest of your issues. The oxygen senors may fix your cat code too...maybe. Good luck!
Then fix the rest of your issues. The oxygen senors may fix your cat code too...maybe. Good luck!
07-22-2013, 07:35 PM
#15
Make sure you use an OEM coil for cylinder 5. Aftermarket coils are notoriously problematic.
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
07-23-2013, 09:40 AM
#16
Make sure you use an OEM coil for cylinder 5. Aftermarket coils are notoriously problematic.
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
07-23-2013, 09:51 AM
#17
Not much to add at this point, except that the cheapest code pulling option isnt a phone based app, or driving to autozone, its using the search button on Maxima.org and following the FREE pedal based procedure which is outrageously simple
Put key in and turn on, wait 3 seconds. Quickly press and release pedal 5 times, then wait 7 seconds. Press pedal down completely for 10 seconds, at the end the SES will start flashing the codes. And you dont even need to leave the driveway to do it
Put key in and turn on, wait 3 seconds. Quickly press and release pedal 5 times, then wait 7 seconds. Press pedal down completely for 10 seconds, at the end the SES will start flashing the codes. And you dont even need to leave the driveway to do it
07-23-2013, 09:52 AM
#18
heated oxygen sensors are only the downstream sensors, upstream sensors are not heated. You need the bank 1 heated O2 sensor
07-23-2013, 09:58 AM
#19
Make sure you use an OEM coil for cylinder 5. Aftermarket coils are notoriously problematic.
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.
The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)
Where do you buy OEM parts from online? I don't want to go to Nissan to expensive.
07-23-2013, 10:06 AM
#20
if these are your codes
then you only need one O2 sensor, and its the secondary O2 (AKA the heated O2) on bank 1. Do you have other codes? If not, why do you think you need two O2 sensors?
then you only need one O2 sensor, and its the secondary O2 (AKA the heated O2) on bank 1. Do you have other codes? If not, why do you think you need two O2 sensors?
07-23-2013, 10:08 AM
#21
APWI Part # AP379
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Upstream Front
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Upstream Rear
Part Image
$25.79
APWI Part # AP4245 One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front
Part Image
$32.79
APWI Part # AP4339
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Rear
Part Image
$32.79
DENSO Part # 2344241 OE Style One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front
Part Image
$50.79
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1564168
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] ,Post Catalytic Converter (Downstream); Rear
Part Image
Choose:
$52.99
DENSO Part # 2344270 OE Style
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Rear
Part Image
$53.99
BOSCH Part # 15224 OE Type - Exact Fit; Heated; Wires: 4; Length (in): 31.5 One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front
07-23-2013, 10:14 AM
#23
07-23-2013, 01:53 PM
#24
07-23-2013, 02:56 PM
#25
This is the bank 1 downstream aka heated front sensor.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...010&cc=1431961
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...010&cc=1431961
07-23-2013, 05:34 PM
#30
You just have to look around. Avoid ebay like the plague. Lots of counterfeit parts.
I get most of my OEM parts from www.courtesyparts.com.
I get most of my OEM parts from www.courtesyparts.com.
07-23-2013, 05:37 PM
#31
07-23-2013, 06:05 PM
#32
I ordered that part, looking for the ignition coil now.
07-23-2013, 06:09 PM
#33
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22433-c...957_1988_1989&
I think that's it. All of them are the same I think.
I think that's it. All of them are the same I think.
07-23-2013, 07:08 PM
#34
http://www.courtesyparts.com/22433-c...957_1988_1989&
I think that's it. All of them are the same I think.
I think that's it. All of them are the same I think.
07-23-2013, 07:09 PM
#35
07-23-2013, 08:18 PM
#36
I don't race so it should be better for me.
07-23-2013, 08:23 PM
#37
I doubt you're mechanic or any mechanic that isn't shady will do it. It's against EPA regulations. It's not too hard to do yourself though. Hardest part is getting those rusted bolts apart. Remember though...if you do this it will not fix your check engine light. You will have to get O2 sensor simulators for your secondary O2's or your computer will think there is a problem with your cats.
07-23-2013, 09:13 PM
#38
I doubt you're mechanic or any mechanic that isn't shady will do it. It's against EPA regulations. It's not too hard to do yourself though. Hardest part is getting those rusted bolts apart. Remember though...if you do this it will not fix your check engine light. You will have to get O2 sensor simulators for your secondary O2's or your computer will think there is a problem with your cats.
What websites?
07-23-2013, 09:47 PM
#40