I didn't want to piggy back the other thread about adjusting the timing with the Androind App, so I created this one. Would there be a benefit to adjusting the idle to a higher RPM for drag racing? You could hold the car with the brake, and when the light turns green the car will already be at a high rpm without having to hold it there. I was thinking of trying a 1500RPM idle when I go to the track next. Thoughts?

 

How are you going to accomplish that? EMU/Haltech/UTEC could do it, but, I don't think it would benefit.

In fact, Jime the AT man himself has found better times when not brake torquing very high at all.

Also, not sure of the limits of the idle adjust but the Cipher only allows a small adjustment. IIRC +/- 250 RPM.

Turn your AC on.

 

Actually you can't even adjust the 3.5's throttle with a haltech, etc. The computer always reverts to the stock parameters after an alteration.

the only way to do it is with either an ECU reflash, or a full standalone setup. or some other uncharted/unlisted option I'm not aware of.

 

Or mechanically changing it by taking it apart, which could just cause some crazy havoc, because the engine will be constantly trying to unsucessfully correct for it.

 

I didn't know Jime found that to be the case. Interesting. I was just messing with my ELM 327 and Car Gauge Pro app and noticed I could adjust the idle rpm quite a bit. I didn't see how high it could go. It just got me thinking.

 

It got me thinking as well when I first got the car gauge pro app and you could actually fart around with the idle rpm. Although you can increase it, its limited to 250. But even at that it gets you past the stall on the oem torque converter. I have yet to try this at Luskville which is the only track around me within a 200km radius. I just haven't had the time. I thought with the program you could get more out of it but 250 is the max.

 

That thread is already mucked up with other off topic conversation, wouldn't of mattered.

 

I'd be interested to see how long the adjustment in the idle RPM holds on your car with those APP's. Have you actually tried it?

I've heard of a few people trying it with professional scantools for large shops and it doesn't hold, I've personally tried it on my G35 (different ECM, mind you) without any luck.

 

It works fine. It sticks just like the timing advance does. Car Gauge Pro is ridiculously good. Just being able to read all the sensors with it is nearly invaluable if you're really troubleshooting. It's a shame our ECU doesn't support more options.

 

It DOES stick. Its actually quite neat and it works quite well its like idle on a cold start but never goes back down, and even if it didn't stick when you turned the car off, you could just set it again. The bluetooth adapter and 3 programs are a MUST have. Car gauge pro-torque pro-dash command. The PID list in CGP &TP can literally allow you to diagnose anything on the vehicle that is hooked in electronically. The self tests on CGP are alone well worth the 6 bucks it costs and pays for itself the first time you use it.

 

That's awesome, I guess it's just the 2003.5 G35's with the newer ECU that don't take to it. Damn.

 

Now, to the OP's question... As far as it being a benefit, it's relative I guess. I thought the purpose of getting close to the stall on an AT was to increase the line pressure in the tranny (which is determined by throttle pedal position, right?). I guess it would benefit with a dr mod. Also, if your not hooking on launch this would be hurting more than helping, right? Just my thoughts, which according to my wife are always wrong anyway.

Alright, guess I'll get back to work now...