I recently replaced all the motor mounts, tires, struts, plugs, etc. It is smooth as can be but lacks power. Once in a while it feels like it has 40 more horsepower than usual. I have a code for a EGR temp, and just recently a p0158 and p0159. I have read about people replacing the MAF and having a night and day difference in power. Is there a way to OHM it out and see if it is out of spec? I tried searching but didn't see anyone testing.

 

measure the voltage, FSM EC-162 step 8

 

i am looking at the FSM and don't see a step 8 on EC-162

 

EC-175 Starting with Step4? I found voltage test instructions there...
I thought I would need to OHM it out. Apparently if I had MAF voltage problems I would get a CEL?

 

The confusion here is that page numbers change with each year of the FSM.

Page EC-162 in the 2001 Maxima FSM is page EC-171 in the 2000 I30 FSM.

Infiniti and Maxima FSMs can be different also. It is page EC-176 in the early production 2000 Maxima FSM and page EC-171 in the late production 2000 Maxima FSM.

 

Basically what I am reading is I need to check terminals 2 and 4. 2 should = appx 5 volts and 4 should = battery voltage.

However I am skeptical about finding anything wrong here. I have read about people with bad MAF without any codes for voltage. Has anyone confirmed a way to OHM it out? I would think this would be more telling of a problem than a voltage reading.

 

Offtopic, but go to autozone and get a can of MAF cleaner.
it confirmed I need a new maf because it got considerably better.

At least under 3,000rpm it feels great but MAF still needs replacing.
and yet the OBD doesn't throw a code for bad maf. :/

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html

 

The MAF sensor is a thermistor. A thermistor is a resistor that changes its resistance with temperature. You can check the ohms of a thermistor, but you have to know what temperature it is at and then have a chart that shows the resistance for that (and other) temperatures. Nissan hasn't published that chart, so....

 

You can check 5V and battery voltage, but the real test is pin 61 (at least on the '01), voltage should be 1.0V with ignition ON (but car not started), 1.2-1.8V at IDLE, 1.6-2.2V at 2500 RPM, and about 4V at 4000 RPM. The voltage should also vary linearly from IDLE to 4000 RPM. I'd hate to replace the MAF on a guess if it was good.