Stuart Ramsey

So I was on my way out of town today, about an hour and ten min on the highway when all of the sudden when I was pulling off the line at a stoplight my car wouldn't go. I shifted to neutral and back to drive and I was good. About 30 min later the same problem and my service engine light came on and now the A/T light flashes a few times and cuts off. What's happening?? I can't afford any major work right now.

theblackone3.5

iTrader: (5)

Maybe camshaft sensor? Check your codes and get back to us.

D.Stillwell

Sorry to hear that, but don't worry just yet. First question is, has there been ANY work done to the tranny recently? Such as replacing fluid? And of course, try to pull the codes since you got a SES and let us know.

Using the wrong tranny fluid/dirty fluid/not enough fluid can cause such a problem. Or it might actually be the A/T temp sensor itself (located inside valve body). Did your car shudder at all when this happened?

Best of luck! And let us know what the codes are and as much details as possible.

Stuart Ramsey

No shuddering and I haven't done any work to it

gapboi210

Codes? If you have lights on, it means there is a fault. Get them read.

Stuart Ramsey

And oddly enough the car was running solid before this happened.

D.Stillwell

Well, the way you've described it so far makes me think it's the actual A/T sensor. But please do get the codes pulled and let us know, otherwise it's just guessing.

Stuart Ramsey

Pulled the codes. Here's what I got:
P0011: speed sensor
P1574: ASCD vehicle speed sensor malfunction
P0220: output shaft speed sensor
P0720: output speed shaft sensor

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

If you have an FSM, page 173 in the EC section is where diagnostic for this starts. Im assuming you dont or you would know that "P0011: speed sensor" is the generic OBDII code, and that P0011 for a 5.5 gen is IVT Control. If I get more than 1 code I like to look through the diagnostic for each code and see if there is anything in common between the diagnostic procedure for each code

The procedure starts out with a bunch of short detections (probably not it) and moves on to part/sensor diagnostics, your first step should probably be to download an FSM, but here are the basics for the P0011 code:

Component Inspection
INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
1. Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness
connector.
2. Check resistance between intake valve timing control solenoid
valve terminals as follows.
Terminals Resistance
1 and 2 7.0 - 7.5Ω at 20°C (68°F)
1 or 2 and ground ∞Ω
(Continuity should not exist)

Component Inspection
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (POS)
1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (POS) harness connector.
3. Remove the sensor.
4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.
5. Check resistance as shown in the figure.
Terminal No. (Polarity) Resistance Ω [at 25°C (77°F)]
1 (+) - 2 (−)
1 (+) - 3 (−) Except 0 or ∞

Component Inspection
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (PHASE)
1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
2. Disconnect camshaft position sensor (PHASE) harness connector.
3. Remove the sensor.
4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.
5. Check resistance as shown inthe figure.
Terminal No. (Polarity) Resistance Ω [at 25°C (77°F)]
1 (+) - 2 (−)
1 (+) - 3 (−) Except 0 or ∞
2 (+) - 3 (−)

Stuart Ramsey

So yesterday I took the car to the transmission shop and got the codes checked out. I let the guy who owns the place drive it while he had a code reader plugged in. He told me it seemed to run fine and cleared the codes and told me to come back if the same problems came back. Well no codes have come back but a problem that's got me more concerned has. My timing chain sounds like it is about to come flying off any minute. First start of the day it makes a loud noise that sounds like the chain has a ton of slack in it and it gets faster as I increase speed. It also makes a lot of noise at the top end of a gear, right before it shifts. I will be taking the car back to the place I bought it from
today to see if they will help me out. Anyone have experience with this problem? I have 213,000 miles on the car.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

^^ very common problem.
Guides and tensioners.

Might want to toss in new water pump o-rings while in there too.

Stuart Ramsey

So what's the labor involved and how much should I be expecting to pay for repairs? If I get this done right my car should last a long time afterwards right?

Stuart Ramsey

yesterday i left the car at the shop and today they called and told me i was about a quart low on oil and that was the reason i was hearing the noises. i go to pick it up at 8 tomorrow morning so i guess ill know for sure then.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
your sucker burning oil?
time for new engine

Stuart Ramsey

he told me it wasn't burning and was actually using it but ill talk to them more tomorrow.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
oh so they lost the oil?

gapboi210

using oil and burning oil = same thing.
don't forget that it has 214+k miles. no telling how long it will last. it's definitely closer to the end of it's useful than the beginning.

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

burning oil in a 3.5 is by no means a reason to replace the engine. If its excessively burns oil that's a different story