Switched to 0w30
Switched to 0w30
So I made the switch today, It was a beautiful day and the oil had to done. I figured Id try do something to get some better mileage. Notsure who here or if anyone else uses the new 0w oil. Ill report back my verdict as how it does in the VQ.
I heard that using 0w oil results in less oil pressure.
My smart *** tried 0w20..got an email from a royal purple rep saying that it could cause issues with the timing chain tensioners due to lack of oil pressure. Took that **** out Immediately lol.
My smart *** tried 0w20..got an email from a royal purple rep saying that it could cause issues with the timing chain tensioners due to lack of oil pressure. Took that **** out Immediately lol.
usually only very new cars (2010 and onward i think) cars call for 0w-20 factory. i think just Toyota and Honda
only reason you should run that thin of oil otherwise is if youre driving in very cold weather where thick oil would just stay like syrup otherwise. if youre in a warmer climate, its better to use 5w-30 or 10w-30. 10w-30 will also reduce oil burning
only reason you should run that thin of oil otherwise is if youre driving in very cold weather where thick oil would just stay like syrup otherwise. if youre in a warmer climate, its better to use 5w-30 or 10w-30. 10w-30 will also reduce oil burning
Well it was 45 degrees this morning when I started the car and I didn't hear ANY ticking in the first second of it running. Normally I get just a quick rattle or tick for a quick second with the mobil 5w30 on the cold mornings. So that I like.
As far as improved fuel economy there might be a little. I have 125 on this tank and I have 3/4 left.
As far as improved fuel economy there might be a little. I have 125 on this tank and I have 3/4 left.
Well it was 45 degrees this morning when I started the car and I didn't hear ANY ticking in the first second of it running. Normally I get just a quick rattle or tick for a quick second with the mobil 5w30 on the cold mornings. So that I like. As far as improved fuel economy there might be a little. I have 125 on this tank and I have 3/4 left.
M1 0W-40 here and it got good reviews at bobistheoilguy on VQ blackstone labs oil analysis. I use a pureone pl14610 filter at 5.99 (advanced auto) and the 5qt 0W-40 from walmart for ~$23.
You guys must be crazy. I used 0w30 on my 6thgen for about a week. The oil is so thin that is doesn't coat anything. My engine was much noisier and ran a lot hotter. I ended up switching back to 5w30. That was years back, now I run 15w50 year round. Smooth and quiet. 98k miles and running strong as ever. Lose about 1/2 a quart every 3k miles which is better than 1 quart every 3k like I was with 5w30. Gas mileage didn't change between any of the oils I used. Mostly changed with different types of gas. Always get better gas with Chevron premium for some reason. All others in premium are about the same.
Oil weight and timing chain noise
I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity.
The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
You are not wrong GLE that is exactly what it means. Apparently a few people in here dont know what the weights mean. Once an engine is over 100k things start to change. For my 17 YO VQ30 I would put in 0w-30 or 5w-30. I would never change the warm side as the cSt numbers vary a bit more on the warm side than on the cold side. The difference between a 5w and 0w is very very small but the difference between a SAE 20 and 30 at operating temperature varies by a few seconds. Then again, for an old engine a thicker, SAE 40, at operating temperature is not necessarily a bad thing but SAE 30 is already on the thick side. Most wear occurs at start-up anyways so you should worry about the "w" rating especially if you live in a cold environment.
You guys must be crazy. I used 0w30 on my 6thgen for about a week. The oil is so thin that is doesn't coat anything. My engine was much noisier and ran a lot hotter. I ended up switching back to 5w30. That was years back, now I run 15w50 year round. Smooth and quiet. 98k miles and running strong as ever. Lose about 1/2 a quart every 3k miles which is better than 1 quart every 3k like I was with 5w30. Gas mileage didn't change between any of the oils I used. Mostly changed with different types of gas. Always get better gas with Chevron premium for some reason. All others in premium are about the same.
I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity.
The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
I gotta get me some of that rotella. Thanks for the tip.
I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity. The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
How many miles? If you don't have noise at start-up in the cold, I would probably stick with 5w30 as recommended for all heat ranges. And change it very often.
If you do have noise, you might want to try a 0w30 or 0w40. 0w40 is thicker for more protection and less oil burning, at sacrifice to performance.
In the real cold where I live B.C. Canada during winter I tried 0W30 and it eliminated noise. I didn't see a concerning increase in oil consumption (1 quart per 2 months).
If your engine burns a lot of oil which most do, 0w40 is a good choice. Particularly in summer heat.
The synthetic 0wXX oil is more than twice the price but not having that noise is more than worth it to me.
If you do have noise, you might want to try a 0w30 or 0w40. 0w40 is thicker for more protection and less oil burning, at sacrifice to performance.
In the real cold where I live B.C. Canada during winter I tried 0W30 and it eliminated noise. I didn't see a concerning increase in oil consumption (1 quart per 2 months).
If your engine burns a lot of oil which most do, 0w40 is a good choice. Particularly in summer heat.
The synthetic 0wXX oil is more than twice the price but not having that noise is more than worth it to me.
Last edited by GLE03; Oct 15, 2013 at 07:23 PM.
OK so in regards to the improved MPG , I've seen a 1mpg increase on my last tank. Thats 410 miles on 16.5 gallons, that equals 24.8484848 mpg average. I had a little more than normal city driving on that tank for me too. I'm sure I'd see a better increase if I hadn't been in the city as much.
All in all, I like the oil and will use it though the winter.
Still too early to tell if I'm consuming more or less oil.
I LOVE THE QUIET START UPS, even at 34 degrees.
All in all, I like the oil and will use it though the winter.
Still too early to tell if I'm consuming more or less oil.
I LOVE THE QUIET START UPS, even at 34 degrees.
How many miles? If you don't have noise at start-up in the cold, I would probably stick with 5w30 as recommended for all heat ranges. And change it very often. If you do have noise, you might want to try a 0w30 or 0w40. 0w40 is thicker for more protection and less oil burning, at sacrifice to performance. In the real cold where I live B.C. Canada during winter I tried 0W30 and it eliminated noise. I didn't see a concerning increase in oil consumption (1 quart per 2 months). If your engine burns a lot of oil which most do, 0w40 is a good choice. Particularly in summer heat. The synthetic 0wXX oil is more than twice the price but not having that noise is more than worth it to me.
I do ALOT of driving. I do have the noise an I can't stand it. I don't think I wanna sacrifice too much performance, but if it's barely noticeable then I don't care.
In multi-grade oil the first number is the cold viscosity with the w standing for winter. 0w is good for cold startups in cold weather because it is thinner and gets moving and pressurizes faster. 0w40 is good for start-up in cold as well but thicker operating viscosity for oil burning engines and hotter outside temps, at some cost to performance. It is noticeable.
So try out 0w30, keep an eye on the dip stick and let us know how it goes
I'm in southern california where the coldest winters are low 40s for acouple
hours before the sun comes up.
I'm using full synthetic Pennzoil platinum 10w30
0w30 will not rob any performance. If you are using a synthetic 5w30 it will perform nearly the same when operating. In multi-grade oil the first number is the cold viscosity with the w standing for winter. 0w is good for cold startups in cold weather because it is thinner and gets moving and pressurizes faster. 0w40 is good for start-up in cold as well but thicker operating viscosity for oil burning engines and hotter outside temps, at some cost to performance. It is noticeable. So try out 0w30, keep an eye on the dip stick and let us know how it goes 

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