5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Switched to 0w30

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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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Switched to 0w30

So I made the switch today, It was a beautiful day and the oil had to done. I figured Id try do something to get some better mileage. Notsure who here or if anyone else uses the new 0w oil. Ill report back my verdict as how it does in the VQ.
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:56 AM
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Which VQ?
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 09:57 AM
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Old Oct 8, 2013 | 10:04 AM
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I heard that using 0w oil results in less oil pressure.


My smart *** tried 0w20..got an email from a royal purple rep saying that it could cause issues with the timing chain tensioners due to lack of oil pressure. Took that **** out Immediately lol.
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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usually only very new cars (2010 and onward i think) cars call for 0w-20 factory. i think just Toyota and Honda

only reason you should run that thin of oil otherwise is if youre driving in very cold weather where thick oil would just stay like syrup otherwise. if youre in a warmer climate, its better to use 5w-30 or 10w-30. 10w-30 will also reduce oil burning
Old Oct 8, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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It tends to get cold here in Massachusetts. If this works well as ll maintain it.
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 04:32 AM
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Well it was 45 degrees this morning when I started the car and I didn't hear ANY ticking in the first second of it running. Normally I get just a quick rattle or tick for a quick second with the mobil 5w30 on the cold mornings. So that I like.

As far as improved fuel economy there might be a little. I have 125 on this tank and I have 3/4 left.
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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I ran 0w20 in a 218k mile vq30 gas went from 15mpg to 17
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CauzinDrama
Well it was 45 degrees this morning when I started the car and I didn't hear ANY ticking in the first second of it running. Normally I get just a quick rattle or tick for a quick second with the mobil 5w30 on the cold mornings. So that I like. As far as improved fuel economy there might be a little. I have 125 on this tank and I have 3/4 left.
I think I have the same rattle when I start mine up too, I use Mobil too. Does it get rid of it completely?
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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I heard nothing at all this morning. I'm liking it so far but Im curious to see what my oil consumption will be.
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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M1 0W-40 here and it got good reviews at bobistheoilguy on VQ blackstone labs oil analysis. I use a pureone pl14610 filter at 5.99 (advanced auto) and the 5qt 0W-40 from walmart for ~$23.
Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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You guys must be crazy. I used 0w30 on my 6thgen for about a week. The oil is so thin that is doesn't coat anything. My engine was much noisier and ran a lot hotter. I ended up switching back to 5w30. That was years back, now I run 15w50 year round. Smooth and quiet. 98k miles and running strong as ever. Lose about 1/2 a quart every 3k miles which is better than 1 quart every 3k like I was with 5w30. Gas mileage didn't change between any of the oils I used. Mostly changed with different types of gas. Always get better gas with Chevron premium for some reason. All others in premium are about the same.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:58 PM
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Oil weight and timing chain noise

I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity.

The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:23 PM
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You are not wrong GLE that is exactly what it means. Apparently a few people in here dont know what the weights mean. Once an engine is over 100k things start to change. For my 17 YO VQ30 I would put in 0w-30 or 5w-30. I would never change the warm side as the cSt numbers vary a bit more on the warm side than on the cold side. The difference between a 5w and 0w is very very small but the difference between a SAE 20 and 30 at operating temperature varies by a few seconds. Then again, for an old engine a thicker, SAE 40, at operating temperature is not necessarily a bad thing but SAE 30 is already on the thick side. Most wear occurs at start-up anyways so you should worry about the "w" rating especially if you live in a cold environment.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 05:05 AM
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There is a plethora of great info on Bobistheoilguy. I've been using shell rotella t synthetic 40w forever. Both in my motorcycle and cars. As good as Mobil 1 but cheaper.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by po8pimp
You guys must be crazy. I used 0w30 on my 6thgen for about a week. The oil is so thin that is doesn't coat anything. My engine was much noisier and ran a lot hotter. I ended up switching back to 5w30. That was years back, now I run 15w50 year round. Smooth and quiet. 98k miles and running strong as ever. Lose about 1/2 a quart every 3k miles which is better than 1 quart every 3k like I was with 5w30. Gas mileage didn't change between any of the oils I used. Mostly changed with different types of gas. Always get better gas with Chevron premium for some reason. All others in premium are about the same.
your engine running poorly on 0w30 vs 5w30 makes no sense. At warm temp that is essentially the same oil. Maybe it was because you only put in 2 qts
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by vfrpilot28
There is a plethora of great info on Bobistheoilguy. I've been using shell rotella t synthetic 40w forever. Both in my motorcycle and cars. As good as Mobil 1 but cheaper.
Switching to Rotella t6 5w 40 cut my oil consumption by half! Very pleased.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by GLE03
I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity.

The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
In a perfect world, you are exactly right. But, like most things, oil doesn't act perfectly. That's why you need resources like......

Originally Posted by vfrpilot28
There is a plethora of great info on Bobistheoilguy. I've been using shell rotella t synthetic 40w forever. Both in my motorcycle and cars. As good as Mobil 1 but cheaper.
I gotta get me some of that rotella. Thanks for the tip.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by GLE03
I could be wrong but from what I understand, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 are the same hot temp viscosity of 30. That is, after initial warm up these oils have the same viscosity. The first number for oil weight refers to the cold temp viscosity. People have had success including me with using 0w30 or 0w40 and eliminating cold start-up timing chain noise. The dreaded timing chain racka sound will eventually destroy water pump sprocket or sliders. I just couldn't stand the sound of what I was told was a normal start up. I found that an anti-flow back oil filter (basically any good filter) and 0w30 fixed the consistent issue. I do not have to top up oil between changes. No overheating or noise. 160kms.
So if I lived in upstate NY with a 5.5 generation maxima, what oil would you recommend? Been around 40-50 degrees in the am
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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How many miles? If you don't have noise at start-up in the cold, I would probably stick with 5w30 as recommended for all heat ranges. And change it very often.

If you do have noise, you might want to try a 0w30 or 0w40. 0w40 is thicker for more protection and less oil burning, at sacrifice to performance.

In the real cold where I live B.C. Canada during winter I tried 0W30 and it eliminated noise. I didn't see a concerning increase in oil consumption (1 quart per 2 months).

If your engine burns a lot of oil which most do, 0w40 is a good choice. Particularly in summer heat.

The synthetic 0wXX oil is more than twice the price but not having that noise is more than worth it to me.

Last edited by GLE03; Oct 15, 2013 at 07:23 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:58 PM
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I thought 10w30 was recommended for our cars?
That's what I'm using.
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Thats bad if your in an area where it get below freezing at all..... Need thinner oil on winter for the cold start ups.
Old Oct 16, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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OK so in regards to the improved MPG , I've seen a 1mpg increase on my last tank. Thats 410 miles on 16.5 gallons, that equals 24.8484848 mpg average. I had a little more than normal city driving on that tank for me too. I'm sure I'd see a better increase if I hadn't been in the city as much.

All in all, I like the oil and will use it though the winter.

Still too early to tell if I'm consuming more or less oil.

I LOVE THE QUIET START UPS, even at 34 degrees.
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by GLE03
How many miles? If you don't have noise at start-up in the cold, I would probably stick with 5w30 as recommended for all heat ranges. And change it very often. If you do have noise, you might want to try a 0w30 or 0w40. 0w40 is thicker for more protection and less oil burning, at sacrifice to performance. In the real cold where I live B.C. Canada during winter I tried 0W30 and it eliminated noise. I didn't see a concerning increase in oil consumption (1 quart per 2 months). If your engine burns a lot of oil which most do, 0w40 is a good choice. Particularly in summer heat. The synthetic 0wXX oil is more than twice the price but not having that noise is more than worth it to me.
It has almost 150k I do ALOT of driving. I do have the noise an I can't stand it. I don't think I wanna sacrifice too much performance, but if it's barely noticeable then I don't care.
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JayM
It has almost 150k I do ALOT of driving. I do have the noise an I can't stand it. I don't think I wanna sacrifice too much performance, but if it's barely noticeable then I don't care.
0w30 will not rob any performance. If you are using a synthetic 5w30 it will perform nearly the same when operating.

In multi-grade oil the first number is the cold viscosity with the w standing for winter. 0w is good for cold startups in cold weather because it is thinner and gets moving and pressurizes faster. 0w40 is good for start-up in cold as well but thicker operating viscosity for oil burning engines and hotter outside temps, at some cost to performance. It is noticeable.

So try out 0w30, keep an eye on the dip stick and let us know how it goes
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CauzinDrama
Thats bad if your in an area where it get below freezing at all..... Need thinner oil on winter for the cold start ups.
Ok, nevermind. I realize now you guys are in subfreezing areas.

I'm in southern california where the coldest winters are low 40s for acouple
hours before the sun comes up.

I'm using full synthetic Pennzoil platinum 10w30
Old Oct 20, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GLE03
0w30 will not rob any performance. If you are using a synthetic 5w30 it will perform nearly the same when operating. In multi-grade oil the first number is the cold viscosity with the w standing for winter. 0w is good for cold startups in cold weather because it is thinner and gets moving and pressurizes faster. 0w40 is good for start-up in cold as well but thicker operating viscosity for oil burning engines and hotter outside temps, at some cost to performance. It is noticeable. So try out 0w30, keep an eye on the dip stick and let us know how it goes
Yea I definitely will. Think I'll try using 0w40 because after 1500 miles it's down 2 quarts. I heard its because of worn piston rings but hopefully a cheap oil change can fix it
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